Best way to remove headers with engine in the way
#1
Best way to remove headers with engine in the way
Hi guys I just had another header question. What is the best way to swap headers in my 1979 Cutlass with the engine in the car? Can they drop out of the bottom if I get the car high enough? Can I get the car high enough? Or do I have to lift up on the engine a bit? Thanks for your help.
#3
X2 on ^^^. But if you don't remove the starter, DISCONNECT the BATTERY. When you're maneuvering those headers there's a very good chance you'll arc on the power feed to the starter.
#4
When installing my headers on the H/O I had to remove both the started and not only the oil filter but the adapter that mounts on the engine. And you can lift up the engine some for better access, just remove the long bot on the engine mounts and you get some extra room but not necessary
#5
When installing my headers on the H/O I had to remove both the started and not only the oil filter but the adapter that mounts on the engine. And you can lift up the engine some for better access, just remove the long bot on the engine mounts and you get some extra room but not necessary
#7
I agree with everybody on here.
Disconnect the battery, because if you hit that starter, OMG. I did this connceting my oil sending unit for my gauge in the Alero. The sending unit is right above the starter termials. Not fun and laying on your back, under the car at the time, even less fun.
With a SBC in that bay, it should be real easy since the SBC is about 1/2 the width of a SBO. You will need to be under the car and on top. It probably wouldn't hurt to "cheat" a little bit and access some bolts though the wheel wells
Disconnect the battery, because if you hit that starter, OMG. I did this connceting my oil sending unit for my gauge in the Alero. The sending unit is right above the starter termials. Not fun and laying on your back, under the car at the time, even less fun.
With a SBC in that bay, it should be real easy since the SBC is about 1/2 the width of a SBO. You will need to be under the car and on top. It probably wouldn't hurt to "cheat" a little bit and access some bolts though the wheel wells
#8
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