csouth

I hadn't thought about it, but its a good option. I'm going to call them because LS2 is not listed on their sight. What stalk did you use on your steering column with the the cruise control?

garys 68

You need a GM normally open type. I used the Rostra stalk (normally closed), dumb me. It can be wired for on/off with push button cruise, but resume/coast wont work without relays.
If you have the cutlass dash switches, those will work. Otherwise Rostra has a dash mounted controller that will work.
There are options if you look over at LS1tech conversion forum.

csouth

Thanks for the info. I see the dash mounts and stalk. I'm sure I will have lots of questions for you as my swap continues, just let me know if I bug you to much...lol
On another note, did you swap water pumps? I have seen where people used the 2007+ WP with a car intake, but I wasn't sure of the year on your motor.

garys 68

On water pumps, the 07+ truck pumps clear the later DBW TBs, but not earlier ones. Tough to say on the 4 bolt TBs, cant say for sure.
I used a truck pulley on LS1 pump. A better solution might be the front outlet 2010+ Camaro LS3 pump that is spaced correctly for truck accessories. It definitely clears the TB.

csouth

I'll try the current solution before I start throwing money at it unnecessarily. Since the motor is an '07, its good start. I just ordered my intake bolts, fuel rails, and idler pulley relocation bracket last night. I'm going to pull the motor out of the garage and clean it up tmrw morning, so it can be ready once my paint arrives.
I'm going to look at a 4L70E tomorrow evening and then Sunday I should be picking up a new F body oil pan, pickup and dipstick. The seller had an LS1 with 40k he was going to swap into a 944, but killed the project. He sold the motor for $1500. I looked at it 2wks before my motor got stolen, when I needed one it was already gone.

garys 68

Here are pics of the LS intake with 07+ truck accessories.
http://ls1tech.com/forums/new-produc...-270-99-a.html

csouth

Thanks Gary. I see I will need to grind on the upper outlet a little to clear the DBW.
I picked my trans and a brand new F Body oil pan setup. I'm still cleaning the motor to get ready for paint on the block and valve covers. I hope to be ready to install in 2wks.

csouth

So I have my 4L70E that I picked up this past weekend, along with a brand new F Body pan kit. It was pan, windage tray, pickup and dipstick. I got them for $250, which was good seeing as used ones go for $175 plus shipping on LS1tech.
The 4L70E was built up to go behind a Supercharged Saab 9-7, until owner found that the pinout was different on the plug. He had it sitting, but decided to dump it now that he needs more room in his garage.

lspan_zps5d6c1cd6.jpg

4l70e_zps5228ed1b-1.jpg

I removed the truck intake and test fitted. I'll pick up some new gaskets today and my fuel rails are in route.

ls2_zpsbafae955.jpg

I put a coat of gold I ordered from Inline Tube on the valve covers. I should have scuffed them up a little more after cleaning, but oh well. These can be revisited at any point since they sit on top. I'll remove the TBSS oil pain once I get the engine painted. I'll then paint Fbody pan and install it.

oldcutlass

Very nice, so sorry about the burglary. I'll keep watching.

csouth

Thanks, I'm trying to keep it going.

I started painting the oil pan and valve covers. I hate painting on the smooth surface of the valve covers. Even with some light scuffing and etching primer, the result was "so so". The cast aluminum pan was no joy either. I'm hoping for better results with the block.

lsvalve_zps1bd79054.jpg

csouth

Finished the topend minus the fuel rails. I hate the way the valve covers turned out. I think I'm going to scuff them and paint with black eching primer, then spray with gold. I think that will darken the gold in the valve covers. I'll worry about that after its running though...

lsdone_zps7a42ae2b.jpeg

ent72olds

Looking good Chris! Glad to see you went olds gold on the LS...

csouth

Yeah, maybe give it a touch of class...lol

csouth

Ran into a small snafu last night. I purchased a stock fuel rail on eBay to finish my LS2 intake swap. Well after waiting for it to arrive from Cali, it was the wrong fuel rail! It's very wide, so I'm thinking it must be LS7? His ad had LS2/LS3/LS7 fuel rail. No where have I found online where the LS2 and LS7 interchange. They guy had no returns in his listing, but its covered by eBay buyer protection. I'm more pissed at my waste of time and gas as he sent them signature required. Because I'm never home when UPS comes by, I had the pkg held at the terminal for pickup. I had to go out of my way for nothing....

Lee_A

I'm using gold paint on mine, too!

csouth

Nice... Its been done a few times, around here too. The iron block takes the paint so much better IMO. What paint did you use?

Lee_A

I used the Dupli-Color Universal Gold engine enamel. It may not be exact, but there aren't THAT many people who will ever see and know the difference!

csouth

Most of people that know the difference will probably hate that its an LS, so it doesn't really matter...lol

garys 68

Kinda making me wish I would have painted mine gold now.
Keep the updates coming.

csouth

Lee actually made me repaint my motor this evening..lol I liked the way the Duplicolor laid down way better than what I had. I need to touch up the valve covers again. Should be set by the weekend.

Aceshigh

Car looks like it's getting some serious coin put into it. I'm mid progress on my LS/T-56 swap still after
2 years, and finally getting back into it. I like the rims, and I'm curious what paint scheme you have planned to go with them.

I have never seen the Dirty Dingo sliders that look like those.....
Those are my failsafe if I can't get my Edelbrock SS A-body headers to fit.

There will always be short sighted people who fail to understand if Oldsmobile was still in business,
they would have LS motors in them. GM Corporate put them in most performance oriented vehicles under their umbrella.

Glad to see you are going with a proven Nascar head & engine design

csouth

Well this project has been a couple years in the making. What I have here is a condensed version. I actually started this in 2009. It seems like as soon as I started to gain some momentum, my 455/4L80E was stolen which brought me to this.
I picked up the Dirty Dingo DD adapters instead of the sliders. I figured it still gives me 3 mounting positions,just takes a little more time if you need to adjust. I probably need to change that posting...

I definitely don't care what anyone might have to say about me going LS. It was in the long term plan if something happened to the 455 as i had planned to run it on track and autox.

There is an artist that has a Cutlass rendering I would like to consider. It was one he created for a project, but they did not use it. When the time comes. I'll call him and ask before I throw it in the mix as an option.
I had a rendering done a while back, but have since changed my mind about. Here is one I had done recently by Shawn Mascoll. Its simple, yet says PT muscle. I'd like the bumpers and trim to be brushed. Calipers would be powder coated candy orange or race gold.

72_Cutlass_Render.jpg

csouth

After following Lee's lead with the Duplicolor gold, here is the motor as it sits today.
I'm sure you can see the difference in the 2 Gold's

Inline Tube gold

lsdone_zps7a42ae2b.jpeg

Duplicolor Gold. Now the valve covers match the block

ls2_gold2_zps5d2cc7cf.jpg

I should be putting it in next weekend. I'm waiting on my shifter since I want to install the motor and trans together. I'm anticipating it will arrive early next week. I'll wait until the weekend so I can make it an all day affair vs. cramming it in to an evening after work.

Aceshigh

The updated motor paint looks much better.

That rendering is pretty wicked lookin with those Rushforth's.
Keep up the good work. I'll be referencing this thread for tricks and tips outside of my build design.

csouth

Thanks, the Duplicolor is definitely the way to go.

I'm trying to keep the build going steady. I'm also open for any suggestions or feedback as I know you're doing a swap too.
I'm hoping to be able to paint it next year this time. I like simple, but I'll have some small details. I'm going to lay off of the spending for a while after September as I'm trying to make it to SEMA.

csouth

So I'm putting together a list of things I'd like to get done on my "HAM" install weekend... My friend is coming over to lend a hand.


1. Remove dash and old wiring harness
2. Remove Olds frame mounts, install Chevy
3. Fab rear brake lines and attach to housing
4. Install 3rd member
5. Install torque converter and mate trans to motor
6. Remove intake and install motor/trans with G Force crossmember
7. Attach converter to flexplate
8. Set pinion angle and measure for driveshaft

There is no union, but breaks for lunch and beverages will be allowed...lol

Aceshigh

Which one have you purchased ??

I've been seriously trying to figure out if I could use one of these for my T-56 conversion.
Just that none are advertised as working with this.........

csouth

I will be using the G Force 4L80E crossmember. I purchased it for my trans that was stolen.
4L80E
crossmember_zps762a246e.jpg

4L60E
crossmember4l60_zps8bc61fa6.jpg

The mount is basically the same, but the 4L80E is longer which is why it angles back towards the front of the car more than the 4l60E crossmember. I may have to drill holes, but that should be it. G Force said I may have to shim the 4L70E more to get the angle right.

For your purposes, I would probably fab a crossmember from the Summit kit. I know one of the guys from Pro Touring.com built one for his using thier setup. The G Force type setups allow for better exhaust clearance than the tubular crossmembers from what I understand.

Here is the one Tom built for his Chevelle

The top one is stock, middle is one he modified for T56, the last is the one he fabbed from the Summit kit

064_zps44d76f9f.jpg

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-770325/overview/

csouth

Well due to some conversion hiccups, I only got one thing done yesterday.
My friend came by and we got setup to remove the Olds frame mounts and install the Chevy ones. This whole process was a PITA! I'm sure it can be much easier without the suspension installed, but there is no easy way to access these bolts. We got the Olds frame mount off only to find out NPD sold me 2 RH frame mounts! The only thing good about this they are only 15min from my house.
Setting up on jack stands to get ready for install

IMG_1878_zps5444bdc2.jpg

IMG_1879_zpsf0435762.jpg

IMG_1881_zpscd62e630.jpg


Installed the new frame mounts in a location most others used, all bolt holes used with slight overhang. I used the Dirty Dingo Double D adapter plates with the motor mounts in the normal position. On test fit the oil pan was tight angainst the crossmember and there way to use the setting. I pulled the motor and trans back out and we moved the frame mounts back in the crossmember. I moved the motor mounts up the 3/4" fwd position and it was perfect.
What I found out next is that while my friend was able to get his motor mounted bolted, I could not get my holes to line up. After zero success shift and prying, I pulled the motor back out. Looking closer, I see Energy Suspension needs better quality control.

IMG_1880_zps6d7f4f67.jpg

The weld was so sloppy, I could not get the mount to sit flush. NPD was closed and we were in too deep by now, so my friend just grinded down the welds. I hate have to do that to new parts, but I wanted the motor in.
After a long night the motor was finally in, minus the trans. I did end up with ample oil pan and firewall clearance after all the adjustments.

7dc19fa4-c826-45d2-8044-8b7aaab4818d_zpsc6aa8c6c.jpg


Placed a wood block between the head and the firewall to allow the motor to rest.

IMG_1874_zps18362814.jpg


All done and back on the ground....

IMG_1877_zps170f3aa1.jpg

oldzzy

Looks good! That car is going to be awesome to drive!

oldcutlass

2 thumbs up, looks great. I unfortunately think with the direction our fuel is going these swaps and/or EFI are probably going to be the norm in the future.

car_designer

Chris, the progress is looking good.

csouth

Yeah, or overdrive transmissions at a minimum.

Thanks, hope to keep the momentum going...

csouth

Thanks, I want it to be driving by November. I know it won't be feasible here in MI, but to know it can move under its own power will be great.

Aceshigh

DUDE!!!! Thanks!!!! I had no idea they sold something like that.
it's EXACTLY what I wanted, like the G-force, it allows MUCH MORE clearance for exhaust.

Now how do I find more info for Tom's build or is he a member of Pro-touring.com ??
I'd like to PM him to get some info, because I can weld it, but obviously getting some
tips from someone who did it first would be super helpful to save some SNAFU's.

speedaddict78

Car is coming along real nice.. I'm in the middle of installing an LS1 into my 78.. Finally got the motor dropped in tonight.. What a nightmare mine was.. I went with the Trans-Dapt swap kit.. It came with mounts for pre-72sbc so I couldn't use them. Had to re-use the Clam shell.. No big deal.. Mount the plates on to the block.. OK.. Mount the Clam Shells to the plates, 3 out of the 6 bolts were too long.. Hit the block in different places.. Had to shim them out with washers.. Get new mounts installed on the frame.. Drop it in, don't line up.. I get the P/S bolt to line up, D/S is off like 3/4".. Try prying, lifting, moving the trans up, down, side to side, etc.. Nothing.. Pull it back out. Had to slot the holes in the from up 3/8", re install everything.. Still don't line up, but the D/S is only off 1/2" this time.. Lift the motor a few inches, loosened up all the bolts on the frame mounts, drop it in, pry, push pull, finally.. Got both sides lined up... WHAT A PITA!!. What a mistake I made getting the Trans Dapt stuff.. I originally was planning on the mounts from Car Shop Inc, but was putting together a big order with Summit and figured I would just get it all in one place and others have used the trans dapt.. What a mistake.. But she's in..

Now my next issue is the trans Crossmember.. I got the G-Force also from Summit.. My issue is the only way it lines up, is with the front two holes on the crossmember to the last two holes on the frame.. If the frame was longer, like in my last 2nd gen camaro, just drill two more holes.. Been there, done that. No big deal.. But this car, the frame ends and there is no more rail to get the last two bolts. So I gotta figure out how I'm gonna do that..

Had to cut off a collector on my Driver side header b/c it had a nasty kick out and wouldn't line up to the hump in the crossmember.. Got that sorted out now I gotta weld it up... I guess it wouldn't be fun if it was too easy.. lol

csouth

Yeah, he has a build thread there, 66 Chevelle. The frame is different, but the concept is the same. He's a really nice guy, met him in person and talked to him on the phone. Check out his build and shoot him a PM if needed.

http://www.pro-touring.com/showthread.php?t=63334

csouth

I totally understand. This has definitely been a learning experience for me. I'll be prepared if I ever do another swap or even assist on one. I'm going to try to get my trans in this week, so I can fit my crossmember and see where the issues lie.
The most time consuming part was the dang frame mounts. There is no quick and easy way to get those in and out.

csouth

Its been a while since I posted here, making small changes to the car after finding suspension and drivetrain wise.

csouth

Switched to Ridetech coilovers and installed them this summer. Set the rears at slightly above what I want the final ride height to be with full interior and tank.

photo1_zps3937a787.jpg
photo3_zpsbde98e30.jpg

I sold my 4L70e and controller and recently ordered a T56... Mo Money