Thank you Eric. I was trying to keep the thread simple and informative, instead of going into every single little detail.

Holley has really done their homework on swap parts, everything bolted up and driveline angles were perfect.

 

Took the car to work today and hit 2500 miles with new engine/trans. Car runs perfect, no hiccups. Get in, start and drive off. Had the tuner go over the data, he made some small adjustments to the fuel table just to dial it in.
I've been messing with the tuning just to get familiar, it's user friendly. I adjusted my shift points to my liking and also set the lockup on torque converter at 65mph.
On the freeway, it runs smooth 80mph at 2500rpm, finally I can keep up with traffic. From 80 to 120 feels almost instant, as soon as trans grabs 3rd it's gone.
Circle D torque converter is a beast, drives like stock putting around town, but when I step on it the monster comes out.
DBW setup is great, there is no delay and IMO feels better than cable TB.
Overall I'm very happy with the swap.
I was planning on boost, but might just keep it NA, it's fast enough.

 

Very nice build! I used a lot of the Holley stuff with my LS swap and they look good and work great. I used the original truck brackets with mine and got a smaller pulley for the power steering. How did you find the hood clearance with that intake? I am still having issues with hood clearance but I went for the old school look with the throttle injection.

 

Thank you, It's close but it clears just fine. Probably about 1" between the top of the intake and hood, and 1/4" gap when cover is on the intake.

 

Very clean, are you planning on putting wipers back on? A 96-02 camaro wiper motor will give you a delay system with hidden wipers, but it requires some modification.

 

Thank you. I haven't figured out the wipers yet, but Camaro definitely looks like an option. I'm gonna pick one up from pick-n-pull and see what it would take to install.

 

Approximately how heavy is that converter?

 

If I remember correctly right around 32lbs dry.

 

Started working on my wiring yesterday. So if you run the MAP on the intake, you ignore that blue MAP line back of the ECU? Also on the MAP, since you and I both are going TB SS. Is that the adapter that goes from the LS Gen 3 map to a Gen 4 LS3 connector. I noticed mine wouldn't plug in.

And the hot lead you have going to the Alternator, where did you get that? It looks very nice.

Thanks
Bryan

 

For the MAP - If you use MAP on intake, ignore the blue line coming from the Terminator. The adapter wire for MAP is Holley part # 558-416.

The alternator wire I crimped the ends my self and wrapped it in the sleeves that I bought on Amazon.

 

Thank You, I'm slowly plugging through this. Looks like I'll be waiting on the headers till probably May Trans Mount now shows middle of Feb.

 

Anytime man, glad I can help.
Looking good.

 

Almost exactly what I’m doing except we’re going to fab a trans crossmember and I’m going to use megasquirt. I combined an LY6 short block with a LH6 top end. Good to hear everything went in well.

what gears and what kind of mileage do you get?

 

I'm running 3.42 gears. I have a heavy foot, I love to open it up and let it rev, so far I've been getting 17-18mpg on average.

On my road trip San Francisco to LA couple of weeks ago, I averaged 23mpg, 1k miles in 3 days, mostly highway. Like I said I have hard time keeping my foot of the gas pedal.

 

Things have gone an entirely different direction now....

 

My favorite kind of intake. Looks great man.
I'm working on putting mine together.

 

It looks like you are using the LSA to LS1 cathedral port head adapters. What computer are you running?

 

Yes. Using the Holley X Max system.

 

Youve done a great job, any idea what you have $$$ wise into the entire swap?

Any autopsy results on the 463 yet?

 

Thank you. I think around $10k-ish, that's including rebuilding the engine.

I finally got the 463 on the engine stand, about to dig into it soon, other projects keep getting in the way.

 

Interested, do you have links or info on this mod?

 

I used the plate and wiper arm from a 98 camaro:

I cut and welded the plate into my firewall and welded the cutlass pin to the 98 wiper arm. This took some trial and error to get the operation right.



I used the schematic for a 98 wiper switch along with a 3 pole 8 position rotary switch and a variety of resistors to make my own switch with 7 speeds and park (8 positions)


The three ***** on my dash next to the column are the headlights (far left) which I almost never use because I have a dakota digital acc delay module which turns the lights on at night, power mirror (far right) although the mirrors look like 71-72 sport mirrors, they are actually 81-82 corvette electric power mirrors, and the wiper **** in the middle.

 

That's awesome. Thanks!

 

Great info, thank you. I will try to do the same.

 

Very, very nice job. I love it!

 

I know this is a somewhat old thread, but, WOW, amazing job!
Steve

 

Thank you Steve!!

 

Great write up!

I also get frustrated with the 455's and their lack of parts availability, reliability, expensive $$ rebuilds, strength, etc.

LS swaps into A Bodies is very tempting. Especially if you want a Pro Touring car like yours that you can drive and take anywhere without worry. The overdrive trans and EFI makes it a bullet proof reliable setup. Doing 80mph on the highway with a locked converter is pretty cool in a 50 year old car.

Will all LS1-3 engine oil pan clear an A -Body front crossmember?

 

I had a great experience using the Holley LS swap parts. It's a very close fit using Holley's pan. So I would say no to running the stock pan.

 

This LS2 might be going into an Olds 442. Already have a 2004R (Stage 3) with a Universal bolt pattern so it will bolt right up to the LS engine. The flexplate will probably have to be changed or machined but otherwise it should be a direct drop.

 

Kind of like asking if a BBC pan will fit a Chevelle. It all depends on what pan/ application you are talking about. I used a stock F-body LS1 pan (out of a 98 camaro) with UMI LS mounts in my Vista. Truck pans will not work and I don't think the GTO pan will either, but I am not sure. The Hummer H2 pan will supposedly fit but they have a deep sump that may bottom out on the road if the car is lowered. If you are using an LS pullout from a F-body, use the stock pan, otherwise, the holley pan is a good choice like mentioned above.

 

The LS2 has a Corvette C6 oil pan on it. Isn't that a low profile pan like the F Body pan?

Dimensional, compared to a 4L80e, is a 2004R the same size or a shorter trans?

 

I'm not 100% sure but I think you'll run into tie rod clearance issues with C6 oil pan.
200r4 is shorter than 4l80e.
For problem free installation I would use Holley 302-2 or -3 pan, and Holley stock position mounts. They locate the engine in the exact spot where olds engine would be, so you don't have to do move the transmission from its location.

 

For 2004r to work with LS, you will have to figure out the TV cable. Since your LS2 has DBW throttle body there is nothing to hook TV cable to. You either have to go DBC, or figure out modifications to the DBW pedal in order to hook up the cable to the pedal and keep correct geometry. It's not easy but I know it can be done, I've seen couple of build on Ls1tech that done it.

To bolt it together I would use TCI 4l80e flexplate that has multiple bolt patterns, no need to machine anything.

 

I looked up the Holley 71221006HKR engine mounts. If the mounts keep the LS engine in the exact same spot. Is the LS2 engine dimensionally (width wise) the same size as the Olds 455?

 

71221006HKR are forward biased mounts, they are used to locate the engine forward which makes room for 4l80e/4l60e. Since you are using 2004r, you need Holley 71221007HKR, they will locate the engine further back in the stock engine/transmission mating plane. Basically the back of the LS would be in the same position as the back of the olds engine. This way older transmissions don't need to be moved in order to bolt up to LS.
As far as the width, I have no clue.

 

any tips on removing old pins in both olds and Cadillac pedals?

 

If I remember correctly I just used a hammer and a punch, with a socket under it.

 

I end up using a cutting wheel for the black plastic Cadillac pedal then sheared the pin closer to the larger headed side. It was just enough so the Scarebird bracket lined up using the remaining pin. I drilled a hole into the dimple of the new pedal arm per the instructions. Also on old pedal I managed to remove pad with the spring and got it all




installed