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I have owned my 1955 Super 88 Holiday Hardtop for 25 years. I found it in a field with bullet holes in the body and rats nest in the piston and valley without heads and intake. I first installed a 65 Caddy 427, but later found a 1963 Starfire 394 that I built for it. After 15 years of feeding a dual 4 barrel high compression 394 with an Erson TQ40 cam premium fuel. I decided to do something different and economical. I sold the 394 on e-Bay for $3,500 and bought 2 military surplus HUMMER 6.2 Diesel engines for $100.00 one has 19,000 miles on it and the other had 29,000 miles. cleaned up and painted they look good and not one person out of 100 at cruise nights even notice that there is no Carb under the air filter.. Plus 1963 Starfie 394 Offenhauser dual 4 barrel Carter 500CFM Comp series carbs Military Surplus 6.2 Hummer diesel Diesel engine in car with Turbo 475 Trans
the increase from 8 MPG to over 20MPG has been a big plus.
I'm kind of hoping someone could tell me. I found 3 of the bumper ends in the woods along with and old 50's Chrysler hood. The end pieces where the exhaust comes through, originally had clear back up lights in them.
Cool swap. The 6.2 was reliable but not powerhouse, probably perfect for a cruiser. Yeah, 20+ mpg is pretty decent for an old car.
The military 6.2 had more HP and Torque than the civilian models especially the California one. Miltary engines made by General Engine Manufacturing. A subsidiary of Am General, used a higher nickle alloy in the blocs and heads,to eliminate the web cracking in main journal area, the injection pump had hardened internal rotating groups for arctic light fuel, HP 170 - 180 and more torque than Chevy and GMC engines.140-160. It's higher HP and Torque than a stock 324.
The 6.2 was designed by Detroit diesel. Loosely based on the Chevy 396 with a 4 bolt main block. Much stronger engine the the Olds 350 Diesel were. The Military 6.2 came from the factory and rebuilders painted black. I Bought the Detroit decals on e-Bay and painted every thing before installing it.. Still very few people notice it's a diesel unless they hear me pull in at cruise nights and car shows. The first time I took it out, my wife walked up to the shop afterwards and said, that "it sounded exactly the same as the 394". It is still exhausting through the same dual 30" glass packs and exiting though the rear bumpers.
Rodney, I've noticed that most of the noise made by my 86 f250 with a 6.9l IDI comes from the engine while the noise made by my 71 98 comes from the exhaust. I don't know if that makes any sense...
I like the 6.2l you put in your Olds. Have you considered installing a turbo on it? Go to this website if you ever have questions about the 6.2l.
Rodney, I've noticed that most of the noise made by my 86 f250 with a 6.9l IDI comes from the engine while the noise made by my 71 98 comes from the exhaust. I don't know if that makes any sense...
I like the 6.2l you put in your Olds. Have you considered installing a turbo on it? Go to this website if you ever have questions about the 6.2l.
The diesel rattle is noticeable more at idle than any other time. On the freeway I don't notice it at all until you get in the fast lane along side a concrete barrier where there is no emergency lane. I put a 6.9 in my Jeep Gladiator a few years ago. and you are right they are noisy also. In my 96 Dodge 3500 with the Cummins 5.9 12 valve I have to turn it off in the McDonalds drive through so I can hear the cashier, But its quiet in the cab.
There are two different turbo kits for the 6.2/6.5 GM and AM General engines. one put the turbo behind the intake manifold, where there is absolutely no room, and the other one is the Side Winder that I would have cut up my right side inner fender well. The military exhaust manifolds are a tubular header style, and weldable. I could mount dual turbos on each manifold underneath using the smaller Nissan, or Mercedes turbos that are coolant cooled.
I did install a Weiand Supercharger on my 6.9 for a while, but the whine was worse than the rattle. I had an Olds V6 Supercharger I was planning on trying on the 6.2, but people who had done it claimed they don't have enough volume to get any boost.
The 6.2 is more HP and Torque than the original 324, so for now I'm just driving it when I can, and enjoying not having the gas go bad over the winter
If you can get pics off of your old hard drive we'd love to see your Jeep too. Is there any specific reason you'd consider using the Nissan/Mercedes turbos? Are they that much smaller than the Detroit OE turbos? Adding coolant cooling to a turbo seems like a recipe for disaster.
If you can get pics off of your old hard drive we'd love to see your Jeep too. Is there any specific reason you'd consider using the Nissan/Mercedes turbos? Are they that much smaller than the Detroit OE turbos? Adding coolant cooling to a turbo seems like a recipe for disaster.
The only reason I have considered the Nissan and Mercedes turbo is they are readily available at Pick n Pull and other yards. and alot of them are collent cooled just in the center bearing sections.
I have uploaded some photo albums to the site. Including the Jeep.
The military 6.2 had more HP and Torque than the civilian models especially the California one. Miltary engines made by General Engine Manufacturing. A subsidiary of Am General, used a higher nickle alloy in the blocs and heads,to eliminate the web cracking in main journal area, the injection pump had hardened internal rotating groups for arctic light fuel, HP 170 - 180 and more torque than Chevy and GMC engines.140-160. It's higher HP and Torque than a stock 324.
Yeah 180 HP isn't bad for a NA diesel. I heard the early GM 6.2 were those same high nickel blocks, they switched and then the cracking issues began. We use that light Arctic fuel 6 months of the year up here, almost a 20% fuel economy loss over our heavy Summer fuel. We push the 4+ conditioner lines along with the fuel we sell off our trucks.
Yeah.I've heard the same thing about the early GM blocks. If I remember right they were called Red Blocks because they came painted red from the factory. Better block, but only 140 HP..
Here in the Sierra's the Ski Resorts and Cal Trans used to use a 60%-40% blend of Diesel and Kerosene during the winter. The State in all their infinite wisdom banned the use, and made us go to additives that didn't come close to working. Nothing worse than having a 5,000 Gal above ground fuel tank gel up solid at 35 below. Even with the best addatives I've seen all the equipment, Graders, Blowers and Snow cats grind to a halt as the fuel froze. The only thing that kept running was the Old Detroit 2 stroke Diesels with out glass bowls on the filters. That's if you had enough either to get them to light.
I've met folks that use ether to start their 6.9l/7.3l IDIs. I guess the trick is to just use a snort and never mix ether with glow plugs. My GPs do just fine but it doesn't get too cold in OK
I've met folks that use ether to start their 6.9l/7.3l IDIs. I guess the trick is to just use a snort and never mix ether with glow plugs. My GPs do just fine but it doesn't get too cold in OK
On any of the 6.2, 6.5, 6.9 and 7.3 IDI diesel engines, I've found that if you get rid of the Glow Plug controller and replace it with a continuous duty solenoid like big trucks use to power up all there lights, and add a push button switch to energize the Glow plugs, ether is never needed. You do need to be careful and replace the stock Glow plugs with continuous use burn proof plugs like the AC Delco G60's Most weather 10 seconds is enough, and they light right off. Quicker than pumping a dried out Carb.
What is the trick with these type of swaps when it comes to deciding what radiator hoses to buy, what size of radiator??? this is really great craftsmanship...
What is the trick with these type of swaps when it comes to deciding what radiator hoses to buy, what size of radiator??? this is really great craftsmanship...
I don't know if there really is a trick. I just sized the radiator as the largest I could fit in the space I had with the fitting on the correct sides and the correct size. Turns out i used a 3 row aluminum aftermarket radiator for a GM full size big block car from the 70's. Top hose was a standard 90 degree elbow bend mated at the engine with an aftermarket swivel thermostat housing. Bottom hose was difficult because the Hummer engine uses 2 1/4" water pump inlet and the radiator was only available with a 2" outlet. I found a silicone 2 1/4" by 2' 90 degree elbow and a 2" by 2" silicone elbow and used a 2" sleeve between the two. A lot of what goes into a swap like this is research and trial. And a lot of Welding and fabrication. You can buy engine swap kits for a lot of cars, but definitely not for this swap.
Thanks for asking Rodney
Yeah I bet there was a lot of fab in your build. As far as mounting the engine how did you determine the engine angle to properly set the driveshaft to the rear end? Thanks for your input.
Yep lots of fab work, lots of machined parts that aren't ever seen. Sometime no mater how precise you are with an angle finder, the final engine transmission mounting is dictated by fit into the frame and in the 55 Olds, the driveshaft has to fit through the x member of the frame. Some times with multiple transmissions as in a divorced transfer case in a 4x4 it gets even more critical with engine angle, center drive shaft, transfer case and rear drive shafts. The pictures are of my 96 Dodge 3500 that I did an Eaton Fuller 6 speed conversion out of an F700 medium duty truck. Specs call for 3 degrees engine trans angle, center shaft 4.9 degrees,and transfer case 3.2 degrees for a front driveshaft operating angle of 1.9 front an 1.7 rear. fun and games. Some cars from the factory never reached the optimal. As is the case of the 61-63 Olds Cutlass F85. out of the factory the angle was so bad they used a 2 piece drive shaft with a center CV or cardan u-joint.
That is something, else great pictures of your handy work.. I wish you were my neighbor: 1- I would be over all the time, 2-you would have a pest asking to many questions 3-you would have free help!!!
That is something, else great pictures of your handy work.. I wish you were my neighbor: 1- I would be over all the time, 2-you would have a pest asking to many questions 3-you would have free help!!!
Thanks for the compliment. I do tend to get things done. I don't claim to be a perfectionist, in fact, none of my cars or motorcycles are Show Pieces. They all tend to be Daily Drivers, suitable for a local Cruise Night. I spent years as a Welder Fabricator and Equipment Mechanic( Now Retired ). I do have a Lathe and Milling Machine, but haven't worked in Machining since High School. Some times I surprise myself and whittle out a decent Billit Part. Most of the time my work is acceptable. But I am and have always been a Jack of all Trades.
Was there a mojor weight difference between the original 324 and the Diesel, judging from your photo where the front end either looks like the springs are succumbing to added weight or the back end is jacked up or both? Generally, Diesel engines have to be heavier, due to having to deal with much higher compression
Originally Posted by edzolz
You sure you don't have some Cuban ancestry? Many cars there have some odd engine swaps.
If he already doesen't have it, he's certainly become qualified to pass their immigration standards. Thus, be eligible for a Cuban passport
Some of their conversions over there are quite abominable, though :
...the government purchased tens of thousands of Kia and Hyundai diesel engines and sold them to the ordinary Cubans who drove cars from the 1950s. They retrofitted their American cars to accept the small diesels...
Last edited by Killian_Mörder; November 28th, 2020 at 12:45 AM.
Was there a mojor weight difference between the original 324 and the Diesel, judging from your photo where the front end either looks like the springs are succumbing to added weight or the back end is jacked up or both? Generally, Diesel engines have to be heavier, due to having to deal with much higher compression If he already doesen't have it, he's certainly become qualified to pass their immigration standards. Thus, be eligible for a Cuban passport
Some of their conversions over there are quite abominable, though :
No major difference. Believe it or not, the Non-turbo 6.2 Diesel is 650 LBS where the 324 is 670LBS. a 59 394 tipped the scale at 725LBS modern engines use much thinner wall casting. Even the diesel. The car sits lower in the front becaust it has 2" lowering springs.
I... ...bought 2 military surplus HUMMER 6.2 Diesel engines for $100.00 one has 19,000 miles on it and the other had 29,000 miles...
Europe's largest Army Surplus outlet looks like a rip-off, in comparison. Even if the sales tax were to get knocked off: https://morlock-motors.de/produkt-ka...ummer-motoren/ At those prices, one would expect brand new factory crates. Did you get yours from an Army Surplus outlet or from some private ebayer This is the least expensive one he's offering. The ad says, the engine's seized
Last edited by Killian_Mörder; November 28th, 2020 at 10:22 PM.
I bought my engines from an outfit called Warhorse Restorations. They restore and rebuild surplus Hummers, and Build New ones from Surplus new stock. The two I bought came out of Hummers that were being repowered with 12 Valve 6BT Cummins Engines. I guess he just wanted them out of his yard. He considered them scrap.
It's also surprising how when that ironplanet link gets clicked on from Europe, the site automatically shows up in German and when searching Hummer, only two entire vehicles show up. Hummer engines are nowhere to be seen. No wonder that that Army Surplus yard in Germany can ask extortionate prices for seized-up engines. Hummer owners in Germany always enjoy having ample expendable incomes. This is the first time that I've ever encountered a censored link tailored to protecting a local dealer from overseas competition :
...There are two different turbo kits for the 6.2/6.5 GM and AM General engines. one put the turbo behind the intake manifold, where there is absolutely no room, and the other one is the Side Winder that I would have cut up my right side inner fender well...
...I had an Olds V6 Supercharger I was planning on trying on the 6.2, but people who had done it claimed they don't have enough volume to get any boost...
If you could find ones of these used and at a bargain price, that should solve both location- and volume problems. Also gone would be the torbo-lag problem inherent with turbochargers. An intercooler is also included.
Despite even being a low-tech engine, the only worries you'd ever have with this is the spectre of twisting your frame, from the horrendous amount of torque this would produce: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...+engine+hummer
I've considered the Supercharger in the past. In fact I had a 3.8 Buick Rivera Supercharger for a while but never used it, didn't think it would be big enough. I did try a B&M Power Charger on my Navistar/International/Ford 6.9 IDI Diesel in the Yellow Jeep Gladiator. Made a bit of improvement, but the noise level was totally unexceptable. These diesels are lound enough without adding an entire new level of Scream to them. If I had of wanted to listen to that I would have put a 4-71 Detroit 2 stroke in the truck.
The 6.2 Military version is 185 HP and 330 LBS torque.Naturaly aspirated. That IS more than the stock 324, and the fuel mileage is great. "IF IT AIN'T BROKE, DON'T FIX IT'
What trans and rear gears are in this 55? That matches a stock 403 which moved big cars adequately with about 5 mpg less. I really like the shorty headers they put on those military 6.2.
Transmission is a Turbo 475. Heavy Duty Version of the Turbo 400. They were used in Motor Homes and medium duty trucks. Mine came out of a GMC Kurbmaster Stepvan with the 6.2 with a rod hanging out the side of the block. Going down hill with 5.88 gears did it in. My rear end is an Olds 9 1/4" with 280 gears out of a 62 Starfire.
March 10th, 2020, 07:45 PM
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