Well the last general maintenance item was going to be my thermostat.

Well the bolts will not move. I am going to soak them with PB Blaster.

I stopped since them were frozen, what else can I try after I soak them.

I am going to try again after I apply this a few times.

 

Heat is your friend. The more intense, the better. Direct the heat to the bolt head and then quench with PB Blaster. Let it sit for a day, try again to remove bolts, and repeat if required.

Good luck.

 

Thank you for the response

Can the heat crack the intake manifold? I had someone heat a water pump on my 1959 Cadillac and they cracked it.

What would you use to heat it?

 

Do not heat the bolt, heat the manifold around the bolt. Heating the bolt causes it to expand in the hole and when the bolt is hot it will snap off. Heat the manifold around the bolt, when it is red gently start turning the bolt and remove. You can use a propane or an oxy acetylene torch.

 

That is correct Eric. It needs to cool first before any torque is applied--which is why I said give it a day before trying to remove the bolt.

I also agree that heating the aluminum works best and is fastest. However, that is a job for someone with experience, otherwise it can turn out the way the OP's water pump did.

 

This is an original intake. I thought it was cast iron. So that is why I am worried about cracking it.

 

I was assuming cast iron. It should not crack, just let it cool on its own. Make sure the coolant has been drained down enough to be below the thermostat.

 

Thanks, I will.

Just the issue that should have been easy may not be!

Got love these old cars.

 

I agree heat is best, but after soaking (I like AeroKroil), I have also had luck with my low torque battery drill that has the hammer option. Not a big electric hammer drill with the handle on the side or an air driven beast for putting lug nuts on your wheel, just the small Home Depot (Porter cable, ryobi, etc.) type, rechargeable. I use an attachment that goes in the drill and gives a 3/8" male end to put a socket on. It just kind of clack, clack, clacks and hammers gently and after a few minutes, sometimes can loosen up the rust in the threads. I've had success >50% of the time with this method.

I have tried this in conjunction with a torch also.

Definitely Don't use a big breaker bar or long socket handle - you'll just snap it off.

 

Patience is your friend, take your time and don't rush it. Tapping on bolt head with a hammer can help break the bond, tightening and loosening it just a little at a time. Impact drill is a good idea, vibration may help break it loose.

 

Yes. That's the word I was looking for - impact drill, not hammer drill.

 

After you get the bolts out, and clean up the threads, you may want to take some precautions on the return trip, especially if the bottom of the threads are exposed to coolant. In order to make your next job easier, consider stainless hardware, or at a minimum, some anti-seize to thoroughly coat all the threads.

 

Probably a lot faster to snap them off, remove the housing and work on the bolts with ease in any manner you want. Heat, wax, lube, screw extractor, whatever.
Is your housing cast iron or pot metal?

 

PB Blaster for two days, went today and applied some Free All.

Tapped the bolts with a hammer lightly, the left one turned after tightening and loosening. I put in some more Free All. Worked it in and out again and left one seems freed up. Did not remove all the way since I was not into doing the job today.

The right one was more stubborn, would not turn after trying. Then soaked bolt one more time gave it a few taps and tried one more time before letting it sit some more and it broke free with a little more pressure.

The key was patience and waiting for the stuff to work into the threads. Keep in mind this is a very clean car always kept inside all of it's life.

 

Glad to hear, old cars take time to repair.