oldcutlass

It's probably just axle bearings, not a bad job.

mikeamondo

Good to know... we will see what he comes back with... thanks, as always!
M

twintracks

Yes there is, U-joints. My brother and I once replaced the entire rear axle assembly in a '71 Chevy Impala convertible owned by my sister in 1987. It had a whine that we thought was something in the rear end. We swapped the axle, and the whine was still there. It turned out that the rearward U-joint was on it's way out, but showed no outward appearance of failure.

aussie oldsmobile 98

did you think of the noise being a wheel bearing?????????

m371961

I am a 65 98 owner,(not roaded yet), and a WVyen. My 65 fuel sender had lost the connection from the windings to the ground. This is on the inside of the sender.
Surprised you inspected it and didn't just throw on the 10 year WV antique tag.
Strongly suggest you go through front wheel bearings, brakes and u-joints. Your mechanic should run it in gear on the lift before diving into the rear. JMHO

mikeamondo

Turned out to be one of the rear end bearings.... He was having some trouble sourcing parts locally, so I bought a full set from Rock Auto and provided them. Got her back last night and she roll and rides like a dream. It's like a different car! For the first time since I've had her, she is what she was meant to be.... powerful, quiet, smooth as silk. Can't wait to put a few more miles on her!

oldcutlass

Glad your moving forward and enjoying your car.

MDchanic

Great!!

- Eric

mikeamondo

So were you able to repair your sending unit once you had it out? I have a replacement, but it's not the canister type. I messed around with it last night with my multimeter, and can see how to measure the ohms as the arm moves. I'm hoping I can make mine work once I get in there so I don't end up with the floating gauge issues... but that would be better than no gauge at all!


Sistersville's not too far away... we're in the Morgantown area.

m371961

My 65 did not have a canister type nor did I have to drop the tank to remove it. I don't know the mechanical differences between the two years. When you get the sender out you should be able to see how it works. One wire leads to a contact that moves across windings as the float moves. One side of the windings goes to ground, the windings create the resistance to ground that is measured by the fuel gauge.

twintracks

Sweet! I'm glad you got it sorted!

mikeamondo

Thanks! For those interested in some pics.... I created an album... Planning on the tank job tomorrow.

mikeamondo

Replaced the fuel sending unit today! Job went great... did it myself in the front yard. First a big THANKS for all the advice on the job. I replaced the existing fuel sending unit with a unit for a 72 Buick LeSabre which I got from Rock Auto. As others have reported, it is a drop in replacement for the 98's, and yes, the gauge will float all other place... but when you park or run straight a level for bit, it settles down and gives you a decent reading. Once I got in there, I realized a previous owner had replaced the original one with one that's wrong for the car... a single line unit, and plugged off the return line.. car had ac from the factory. Also, he installed it without the filter in the tank and put an inline filter over the axel instead. Since my new one has a filter, I did away with the inline one, and put in new rubber lines for both the main line and the return line.
I took a bunch of pics of the job, and was thinking about writing up the job with pics in case someone found it useful in the future. Do you think I should bother, or is this basic enough so no one would really care? And if I do write it up, where would it go? Under it's own thread, or in an album? Or somewhere else?
Finally... I know the old canister sending units can be rebuilt.... this one is rusty up and down the windings, and since it's the wrong one for the car, I'm not going to do anything with it.... so if anyone wants it so they can send in for rebuilding, I'd be happy to ship it to you... no charge. PM me if you're interested... but please, only folks who might need it for their car.... if there's money to made on it, let me make it!

MDchanic

Great!

- Eric

oldcutlass

Glad your moving right along.

mikeamondo

Well... it's body work time for '67 98. I took her to two body guys and both said over a grand to fix the minor (really minor) rust spots along the bottom of the back glass, due to the fact that she's been painted and clear coated... so the entire top and both back fenders need cleared. Ugh.


BUT... I did get a decent price on painting and replacing the hood. So I'll be trying to source a new hood for her. My questions are 1) The 88's and 98's shared a hood in 67, right? Any other models that will work? and B... Anyone got one for sale anywhere close to Morgantown, WV? And yes... I'll post it in the WTB in the classifieds....
Thanks!
Mike