Carb kits
#1
Carb kits
I have been looking for a carb rebuild kit for a 7043251 Q-jet,i got one from napa but all that is included in the kit is gaskets and a float valve,I want a kit with the jets and idle mix screws and a float,does any one know where I can get a kit with those items?
The carb is off of a 73 455 low compression with j heads,when I rebuilt the eng I used l2323f30 pistons proberly 9.5:1 compression andcomp comp cam ol xe250h-10,i also ground the a.i.r bumps off the heads and took a little off the valve guides and port matched the intake and exhaust ports.question is when I rebuild the carb are there any changes from stock that i should make? thank in advance.
The carb is off of a 73 455 low compression with j heads,when I rebuilt the eng I used l2323f30 pistons proberly 9.5:1 compression andcomp comp cam ol xe250h-10,i also ground the a.i.r bumps off the heads and took a little off the valve guides and port matched the intake and exhaust ports.question is when I rebuild the carb are there any changes from stock that i should make? thank in advance.
#2
#3
It looks like Daytona has those parts, Greenslade, and there are a number of other specialty carb. outfits that will have them as well, but I must say that what you're looking for is more than the standard rebuild kit has ever contained.
If the float still floats, then it doesn't need to be replaced, but if you want to anyway, it's always been the case that you have to order it separately at the auto parts store.
If the mixture screws are bad (pitted or with rings from having been screwed in too hard), it's obviously a good idea to replace them, but that falls more under the heading of replacing something broken than doing a standard rebuild.
In some motorcycle circles, I've heard of replacing jets and needles on high-mile carbs because of years of microscopic grit in the gasoline eroding them slightly, but I'm not sure I would have the same concerns about automotive carbs, which usually seem to have better fuel filtration than antique motorcycles.
Unless the other parts are damaged, I'd be inclined to just do the standard rebuild, and maybe change the float, and leave it at that. If you've got idle stability problems, you can always screw in new mixture screws later with about zero effort.
- Eric
If the float still floats, then it doesn't need to be replaced, but if you want to anyway, it's always been the case that you have to order it separately at the auto parts store.
If the mixture screws are bad (pitted or with rings from having been screwed in too hard), it's obviously a good idea to replace them, but that falls more under the heading of replacing something broken than doing a standard rebuild.
In some motorcycle circles, I've heard of replacing jets and needles on high-mile carbs because of years of microscopic grit in the gasoline eroding them slightly, but I'm not sure I would have the same concerns about automotive carbs, which usually seem to have better fuel filtration than antique motorcycles.
Unless the other parts are damaged, I'd be inclined to just do the standard rebuild, and maybe change the float, and leave it at that. If you've got idle stability problems, you can always screw in new mixture screws later with about zero effort.
- Eric
#4
I use and would highly recommeng Cliff Ruggles at www.cliffshighperformance.com as the best place for Q-jets parts and kits. His basic kit includes the float and most important, the accelerator pump cup is made of a rubber that is absolutely not effected by the ethanol and other garbage in todays gasoline. Plus he has just about any and all parts you need for the carbs whether its for a stock rebuild or you want to do some major reworking. I have used his rebuild kits on my 70 Bonneville, 72 Cutlass and 72 Chevy Cheyenne Pickup, and all cars start perfectly, idle smoothly, never stall or stumble and generally run like it's 1970 again and we have real 95-100 octane ethanol free gas. And any time I have phoned, he will talk to you and help you work out a soluition to isues you may be having.
Last edited by brown7373; October 1st, 2011 at 10:13 AM. Reason: additional comment
#5
Thank you gents,I have not rebuilt a carb before and don,t know what I'll find when I disassemble this,would like to have all the parts I may need before i take it apart.
I rebuilt the engine and have not run it yet,think I'll bolt on the carb as is and see how it works,if it runs good i will use the kit that I have,if it runs bad??? If it blows all to hell I won,t need a carb.
I rebuilt the engine and have not run it yet,think I'll bolt on the carb as is and see how it works,if it runs good i will use the kit that I have,if it runs bad??? If it blows all to hell I won,t need a carb.
#6
Sounds good!
Remember that you DO want to be sure that there's no crud in there, that all the passages and jets are clear, and that none of the seals and gaskets are dried out and leaky.
There are a raft of minor adjustments specified, but if it was running well before, most if not all of them are probably fine. If anyone else has been inside it, then anything is possible.
- Eric
Remember that you DO want to be sure that there's no crud in there, that all the passages and jets are clear, and that none of the seals and gaskets are dried out and leaky.
There are a raft of minor adjustments specified, but if it was running well before, most if not all of them are probably fine. If anyone else has been inside it, then anything is possible.
- Eric
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