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Flexible Fuel Line

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Old September 23rd, 2018, 07:31 AM
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Flexible Fuel Line

Does anyone know if there is an AN kit to replace the steel line from the fuel pump to the carb on a 1972 Cutlass with a stock 350 and quadrajet carb? If not does anyone know the part numbers for the needed parts?
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Old September 23rd, 2018, 08:47 AM
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Although I had a bad carb rebuild experience with them, Quadrajet Power does sell what your looking for.
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Old September 23rd, 2018, 09:14 AM
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Originally Posted by Will22
Does anyone know if there is an AN kit to replace the steel line from the fuel pump to the carb on a 1972 Cutlass with a stock 350 and quadrajet carb? If not does anyone know the part numbers for the needed parts?
TIA
Will
Personally, I'd recommend against it for several reasons. First, the braided line is simply rubber hose with an overbraid. The stuff you get for automotive use isn't the MIL-SPEC grade, and the rubber will deteriorate just like any rubber hose. The steel line (or better, stainless) is stronger. Second, the braided line is significantly larger in diameter than the steel and doesn't bend nicely. The result is a floppy mess that takes up space and can get caught in belts. The steel line is contoured to fit. Third, the steel line has two joints and thus two potential leak paths - the flares at either end. To use AN, you need adapters at the pump and carb (two leak points), flares between the adapters and the hose fittings (two more leak points), and the seal between the hose fittings and the hose itself (for a grand total of SIX possible leak points). Your money, your call. For a "stock 350", this is just expensive bling with no benefit.
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Old September 23rd, 2018, 09:53 AM
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Originally Posted by joe_padavano
Personally, I'd recommend against it for several reasons. First, the braided line is simply rubber hose with an overbraid. The stuff you get for automotive use isn't the MIL-SPEC grade, and the rubber will deteriorate just like any rubber hose. The steel line (or better, stainless) is stronger. Second, the braided line is significantly larger in diameter than the steel and doesn't bend nicely. The result is a floppy mess that takes up space and can get caught in belts. The steel line is contoured to fit. Third, the steel line has two joints and thus two potential leak paths - the flares at either end. To use AN, you need adapters at the pump and carb (two leak points), flares between the adapters and the hose fittings (two more leak points), and the seal between the hose fittings and the hose itself (for a grand total of SIX possible leak points). Your money, your call. For a "stock 350", this is just expensive bling with no benefit.
Thanks guys. I have decided to go back with the steel line. The one that is on the car now was damaged (twisted) by the previous owner. Any tips on how to keep it from leaking at the connections?
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Old September 23rd, 2018, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by Will22
Thanks guys. I have decided to go back with the steel line. The one that is on the car now was damaged (twisted) by the previous owner. Any tips on how to keep it from leaking at the connections?
Inverted flare fittings are a metal-to-metal seal between the flared end of the tube and the mating fitting. Unless it's been damaged or improperly flared, nothing other than proper torque is required to seal it - especially under only 5-6 PSI from a fuel pump. Carefully inspect the mating surfaces to ensure there are no burrs or crud to get in the way of the seal. On one particularly pesky flare, I finally found the imperceptible hairline crack that was causing the problem.
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Old September 23rd, 2018, 01:10 PM
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Originally Posted by joe_padavano
Inverted flare fittings are a metal-to-metal seal between the flared end of the tube and the mating fitting. Unless it's been damaged or improperly flared, nothing other than proper torque is required to seal it - especially under only 5-6 PSI from a fuel pump. Carefully inspect the mating surfaces to ensure there are no burrs or crud to get in the way of the seal. On one particularly pesky flare, I finally found the imperceptible hairline crack that was causing the problem.
Thanks Joe. I understand how the inverted flare works. It just seems like a lot of people have problems with leaking. I decided to use steel line for all of the reasons uou mentioned plus the engine is original to the car and I have tried to keep everything as factory correct as possible.
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Old September 23rd, 2018, 03:05 PM
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One alternative you may consider is a stainless steel reproduction. Stainless does not absorb heat as quickly as regular steel. The only drawback is that if it was not formed correctly stainless is tougher to bend. Another thing is although there's usually not a rust issue regarding that fuel line, stainless resists rust better than plain steel. There are many vendors

https://www.getdiscbrakes.com/apc6802s

Last edited by dragline; September 23rd, 2018 at 03:13 PM. Reason: add website
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Old September 23rd, 2018, 06:02 PM
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Originally Posted by dragline
One alternative you may consider is a stainless steel reproduction. Stainless does not absorb heat as quickly as regular steel. The only drawback is that if it was not formed correctly stainless is tougher to bend. Another thing is although there's usually not a rust issue regarding that fuel line, stainless resists rust better than plain steel. There are many vendors

https://www.getdiscbrakes.com/apc6802s
Thank you. I may try the stainless line on the Right Stuff web site.
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