Flexible Fuel Line
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 353
From: Northeast Florida
Flexible Fuel Line
Does anyone know if there is an AN kit to replace the steel line from the fuel pump to the carb on a 1972 Cutlass with a stock 350 and quadrajet carb? If not does anyone know the part numbers for the needed parts?
TIA
Will
TIA
Will
Old(s) Fart
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 50,815
From: Northern VA
Personally, I'd recommend against it for several reasons. First, the braided line is simply rubber hose with an overbraid. The stuff you get for automotive use isn't the MIL-SPEC grade, and the rubber will deteriorate just like any rubber hose. The steel line (or better, stainless) is stronger. Second, the braided line is significantly larger in diameter than the steel and doesn't bend nicely. The result is a floppy mess that takes up space and can get caught in belts. The steel line is contoured to fit. Third, the steel line has two joints and thus two potential leak paths - the flares at either end. To use AN, you need adapters at the pump and carb (two leak points), flares between the adapters and the hose fittings (two more leak points), and the seal between the hose fittings and the hose itself (for a grand total of SIX possible leak points). Your money, your call. For a "stock 350", this is just expensive bling with no benefit.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 353
From: Northeast Florida
Personally, I'd recommend against it for several reasons. First, the braided line is simply rubber hose with an overbraid. The stuff you get for automotive use isn't the MIL-SPEC grade, and the rubber will deteriorate just like any rubber hose. The steel line (or better, stainless) is stronger. Second, the braided line is significantly larger in diameter than the steel and doesn't bend nicely. The result is a floppy mess that takes up space and can get caught in belts. The steel line is contoured to fit. Third, the steel line has two joints and thus two potential leak paths - the flares at either end. To use AN, you need adapters at the pump and carb (two leak points), flares between the adapters and the hose fittings (two more leak points), and the seal between the hose fittings and the hose itself (for a grand total of SIX possible leak points). Your money, your call. For a "stock 350", this is just expensive bling with no benefit.
Old(s) Fart
Joined: Mar 2007
Posts: 50,815
From: Northern VA
Inverted flare fittings are a metal-to-metal seal between the flared end of the tube and the mating fitting. Unless it's been damaged or improperly flared, nothing other than proper torque is required to seal it - especially under only 5-6 PSI from a fuel pump. Carefully inspect the mating surfaces to ensure there are no burrs or crud to get in the way of the seal. On one particularly pesky flare, I finally found the imperceptible hairline crack that was causing the problem.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 353
From: Northeast Florida
Inverted flare fittings are a metal-to-metal seal between the flared end of the tube and the mating fitting. Unless it's been damaged or improperly flared, nothing other than proper torque is required to seal it - especially under only 5-6 PSI from a fuel pump. Carefully inspect the mating surfaces to ensure there are no burrs or crud to get in the way of the seal. On one particularly pesky flare, I finally found the imperceptible hairline crack that was causing the problem.
Registered User
Joined: Jan 2018
Posts: 443
One alternative you may consider is a stainless steel reproduction. Stainless does not absorb heat as quickly as regular steel. The only drawback is that if it was not formed correctly stainless is tougher to bend. Another thing is although there's usually not a rust issue regarding that fuel line, stainless resists rust better than plain steel. There are many vendors
https://www.getdiscbrakes.com/apc6802s
https://www.getdiscbrakes.com/apc6802s
Last edited by dragline; Sep 23, 2018 at 03:13 PM. Reason: add website
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Apr 2017
Posts: 353
From: Northeast Florida
One alternative you may consider is a stainless steel reproduction. Stainless does not absorb heat as quickly as regular steel. The only drawback is that if it was not formed correctly stainless is tougher to bend. Another thing is although there's usually not a rust issue regarding that fuel line, stainless resists rust better than plain steel. There are many vendors
https://www.getdiscbrakes.com/apc6802s
https://www.getdiscbrakes.com/apc6802s
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