I have a 455 olds and am curious to where I can find steel braided fuel lines to the carb? naybr any other line as well, looking to spice up my motor

 

Jegs or Summit Racing would be good places to look.

 

Be aware that you won't find pre-made braided lines for your car. You have to buy the bulk hose, end fittings, and adapters all separately and cut and assemble them yourself. Personally I prefer Earl's Supply, as they are one of the first and still the best-stocked suppliers. It also helped that I used to live only a few miles away from them.

Also be aware that the inner lining of braided hose is just rubber tube (I'm not talking about the small-diameter high-pressure teflon-lined hose here). The rubber deteriorates just like any other hose. I've had braided fuel hoses where the rubber went bad and gasoline just seeped out between the stainless braid.

Frankly, I've gotten over my braided hose bling phase. It's lots of money for no performance benefit.

 

...What's the point, then? Is the braiding for heat shielding or just for general protection and bling effect?

 

The braiding is there to protect the hose. It was designed for use in hi vibration applications and to enable flexibility without chaffing or cracking.

 

It's used for stiffness for either vibration, like said above, or keeping it out of the way of moving parts. It's also to avoid cataclysmic failure, both in terms of machine health, and user health if your job is working next to one.

In the car world, it's used as a fashion statement, and an example of the "More than necessary is better" old saw that is common amongst the non-engineer enthusiasts of the car hobby.

Use a good, new hose of good brand and proper diameter and good clamps, and check under the hood every fill up.

 

I wouldn't call braided hose "bling" or "a fashion statement" when it comes to fuel lines in the engine compartment, especially at the front of the motor where there's spinning belts and a fan blowing any leak toward ignition sources. Ideally you use rigid tubing, but braided is safer than bare rubber hose.

 

If you're serious about performance hose (and not bling), this stuff is close to the best stuff you can get. It's impressive... very light and flexible.

https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3490

They do sell it stainless braided (slightly cheaper) as well:
https://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pr...p?Product=3480

Just be sitting down when you check the price.

 

If rubber hose is a 3 in terms of safety, and rigid tube is an 8, then braided hose is a 4. I presume everyone carries a fire extinguisher in the cab with them?

 

Summit is best bang for the buck.
You will probably need -an to tube adapter fitting, couple of hose ends and couple of feet of hose. It can be done relatively easy.

I've done stainless from fuel tank to carb, also I've done my transmission cooling lines in stainless to get them away from the headers.

 

Can you send me links to the stuff you got? That's what I'm looking!!

 

I'm not too much into the shiny crap, but those valve covers look REALLY nice.

- Eric

 

The problem with braided hose is you cannot see the rubber when it is deteriorated. The braid protects against abrasion and the chance of it spraying.

 

If you plan on any drag racing you are not allowed more than 12inches of rubber hose. the rest has to be solid line or steel braided is accepted. the neat nylon plastic lines they use on new cars is only accepted as factory installed. has to pass through a metal tube or outside the frame where it passes the flywheel area. the braided lines are a pita to do and they do leak right through the braids I have had the best luck with Aeroquip stuff . I use 1/2 inch fuel line with 1/2 return line from the regulator so there is a lot of fuel flowing constantly keeps the temperature constant. I prefer the braided lines over anything else at this point even with the pain of assembly , and I mean that literally lol

 

you might check, if you buy the stuff at one of our local speed shops they will cut and assemble them for you to your specs free.

 

I like the Russell ProClassic II.
The steel braiding is on the inside, less bling, easier to work with than the stainless...good stuff.

-Pete
http://www.russellperformance.com/mc...lassic-2.shtml

 

Thank you Eric.
not so much bling, no chrome whatsoever.
Everything is either aluminum or stainless steel. I live couple of blocks away from the beach, and I take frequent rides down the coast so surface rust is my worst enemy. That is the main reason...... well it looks damn good too.

 

That salt smell is nice, but it means rust.

 

Salt + aluminum = hrs of constant cleaning and polishing enjoyment. Your engine looks awesome 70cutty

 

(I like the Russell ProClassic II.
The steel braiding is on the inside, less bling, easier to work with than the stainless...good stuff.

-Pete
http://www.russellperformance.com/mc...lassic-2.shtml )

might be pretty good, I am not to sure it would fly through tech though. depends on the day and what race you are at, some can be very nit picky. the pro race stuff would pass np though .. I am going to have to rebuild all of my fuel lines since they are about 15 years old now. should be a lot cheaper this time if I can re-use most of the fittings.

 

Mrhotrod, I started using this stuff after first seeing it on Bill Travatos 7.8 second starfire. It'll pass tech for sure.


-pete