This new guy (Me), has a 1970 Cutlass Super that cranks but does not kick over.

My Dad bought it Oklahoma about 4 to 5 years ago when it was still running. Decided to pull the 1975 Rocket 350 (what he was told it had?) to paint it gold. His "BUDDY" said he could help and knew how to paint it real nice and loaned him the cherry picker to do it.

They got the engine out, "BUDDY" had to go on business trip, he never came back.

I bought car from my Dad, put the engine in a 1 1/2 years ago and just now towed it from Oklahoma to Arizona (where I live). Still don't run and I think I might have to rewire the whole car due to being out in a carport in the country for 4-5 years.

I think the field rats, mice, and squirrels got one over on me. Still decent looking. Had to pudh it onto the uhaul trailor with anothe truck.
Changing all HEI components except for the cap itself.
Had to pull and clean out carb.

Where the Cutlass sat for 4 to 5 years.

 

Cutlass Supreme... not Super!

 

First verify your spark plug wires are in the proper firing order. The distributor rotates CCW. Make sure that the rotor is pointing to the #1 distributor cap post at #1 TDC on the compression stroke.


Make sure there is power to the Batt+ terminal on the distributor cap both in the ignition key start and run positions.


Make sure you have fuel at the carb, operate the throttle linkage with the engine of and looking down into the carb. There should be 2 solid streams spraying.


You have some weird wiring with windshield wiper motor.

 

Good looking car, the whizzes here should be able to help you get it up and running. BTW, it's not a Supreme, which is identifiable by the "notch" body style. You have a Cutlass S, where the S doesn't stand for anything, just indicates a trim level.

Unless there are wires obviously bared by rodent activity, I would start with simple diagnostic tests...got spark, gas, timing set, points cleaned, etc? It does look there are some rogue wires run and older splices to give some attention to as well.

I've been told those rims are in demand with the Camaro crowd, might bring a few more dollars than expected, if you were thinking about finding Olds rims for the car.

 

Neither.

A 1970 Cutlass Supreme looks like this. Note the notchback roof. Also, the Supreme would have a VIN that starts 34257...

Yours probably starts 33687...

 

Cutlass S.

You'll get it to run. Just be systematic.

Welcome to ClassicOlds.

- Eric

 

Agreed. It looks as if the power for the HEI may be tapped off the wiper motor harness. ???

 

Get the chebby wheels off that car !

Gene

 

That's the wire for the electric fuel pump for testing.

 

Welcome to the website. That's definitely a cool car!

I bet you can't wait to get it running.

 

Bought an electric fuel pump to bypass the mechanical fuel pump and used the wiper relay wire to run the pump only when the key is turned. I will rewire the wipers when I get the car working again. Using it for trouble shooting.

 

Verified the VIN...Its starts with a 336. Thank you for helping me verify the type car I got.

 

Pulled the spark plugs and they are rusted and brown. They are all dry with no buildup of any kind...except rust. Changing those out tonight. Also I have two plug connection to the HEI Cap but can only find one plug for it. I found two wires that go no where and could possibly be the ones that go to the other Plug on the cap. Can I get a plug for it at AutoZone? That might be the reason I have no spark.

 

Those plugs all look good.

You can get an HEI power feed connector at most auto parts stores.

- Eric

 

Thank You. It good to know what to look for when I hit the auto stores.

 

SMP F50001:


Airtex 1P1755:


- Eric

 

Thank You Again Eric.
Is there a website that I can get the value of my car so I know what I am dealing with?

 

I personally like Collector Car Market Review.

Remember that the standard condition numbers are biased toward fancy restored cars:
#1 is better than new.
#2 is for all intents and purposes new, but maybe not perfect.
#3 is a really nice, near-perfect driver.
#4 is most regular, very nice, not perfect drivers.
#5 is a car needing restoration, but it could be a running, driving car.

From the pictures, I'd put yours at about a 4.5.

- Eric

 

Cool. Thanks Eric!

 

I pulled my HEI distributor cap off and I noticed that the rotor is not pointing to the number one plug. When the engine stops turning does it always stop on the number one plug direction?

 

No.

- Eric

 

I received my Distributer Power Cables (picture above).

I have two wires coming out of the fire wall that go to nothing.
One is black and orange and the other is solid green

Do these two wires go to the power connectors?

If not then how do I wire them in?

 

This is what my VIN TAG Looks Like? I am having a hard time understanding it?

BODY BY FISHER
ST70 33677LAN455731 BDY
TR 947 75 75 PNT
05C B85 B90 B80

GENERAL MOTORS CORPORATION
CERTIFIES TO THE DEALER THAT THIS
VEHICLECONFORMS TO ALL U.S. FEDERAL
MOTOR VEHICLE SAFETY STANDARDS
APPLICABLE AT TIME OF MANUFACTURE

 

Hey dude, welcome to CO.

First, take a look at your fuse box under the dash above the driver's left foot. Are there any obvious added connectors? Your car didn't come from the factory with HEI, it was added later and can't use the same power wire as the original points system. I'm guessing one of those wires goes to the empty "switched" connector on the fuse block. If so, you should be golden. Use it for the HEI. Just make sure it's a "switched" circuit (off when the key is off).

As for the #1 post, you have to make sure the #1 cylinder is at top dead center on compression stroke. That's when the rotor should point to the #1 post on the cap.

Also, do yourself a favor and get the appropriate Chassis Service Manual for your car. I got mine on eBay for like $20.

You have the beginnings of an awesome project right there. Take your time, do the research, ask specific questions here on CO, and you'll have a great ride. Trust me, I didn't know jack when i started, lol.

 

What does the dizzy instructions ?

Gene

 

Looks like prices have gone up in the last few years. Still, not bad.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-Oldsmob...hY29ex&vxp=mtr

 

Cheaper....

http://www.ebay.com/itm/1970-Oldsmob...3D131834905524

 

Handy dandy cowl tag decoder: http://datatagdecoder.com/_beta/formaction.php

Data Tag Decoder Results
Year 1970
Make Oldsmobile
Model Cutlass Club Coupe V-8 Engine
Assembly Date Third week of May
Assembly Plant Lansing, MI
Fisher Body Sequence 455731
Lower Color Matador Red
Upper Color/Conv Top Matador Red
Interior Option Ivory Vinyl Bench
Accessory Codes
Belt reveal molding
Door window moldings
Roof drip molding

 

The IGN terminal in the middle of the fuse block works well for this.

 

That's the one! I was blanking-out, lol.

 

Update:
Found the Battery cable to the starter was grounding things out. Had metal to metal that needed to be taped up and heat shrunk.


Ordered the power connecter and Tachometer connector, installed and now have power to the HEI distributer.


Re-positioned the Distributer while cranking the engine for a first start then got it to run better as we rotated the distributer clockwise direction.


It is now alive!


Need to fix the leaks, get the Chevy rims off to sell (needs new tires and rims), get it smog tested and registered for Arizona compliance.


Then Drive.

 

Does anyone know how much Rally Rims and caps are selling for? The ones on my Cutlass need to go to a good Chevy home.

 

Way to go, man! Good troubleshooting. When you were turning your HEI clockwise, you were increasing your timing. Check it with a timing light; a dial-back light if possible. Every engine is different but IIRC 16-18 degrees initial is about where you want to be. 36 degrees all in maybe? Lol, it's been a long winter in the midwest and I've forgotten a lot of the numbers. Just keep increasing until you get a little pinging under load, then back it off a little.
Keep up the good work.