1955 Oldsmobile Holiday Ninety Eight Coupe
April 19th, 2016, 09:39 AM
#1
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1955 Oldsmobile Holiday Ninety Eight Coupe
My name is Bill, I just acquired my first car older than me. Prior to this car, I collected 1965 Cutlasses and 442's. As of last Thursday, I became the caretaker of a 1955 Oldsmobile Holiday Ninety Eight Coupe. She looks beautiful, but runs a bit scary.
I have to start posting more about the troubles I have encountered.
The transmission appears to have some sort of odd shifting issue. Is it operated with vacuum? I ask bc it feels like a vacuum issue. When in drive it feels as if the car has the hiccups. I recently learned that when my gas gauge reads 1/4 tank it really means empty. As you watch the gear indicator, it is very bouncy and never really is in the gear it claims to be in, very strange. I may have to shoot video if the problem persists past Thursday.
My other main issue is the front end feels very floaty, especially the steering. Finding suspension and steering kits seems nearly impossible although USA Parts Supply might work out well. Do you know of anyplace else? I will be assisting my mechanic on Thursday as we give the car a serious going through. Hopefully, we will either resolve many of the issues we encounter or, at the very least, develop a game plan.
An interesting factoid to bring up is that we will be moving the front seat back a few inches to accommodate my 6'5" frame. How far back do you think we can go before it looks odd? I am not worried about back seat passengers, I am worried about Bill fitting his legs underneath the steering wheel.
I have to start posting more about the troubles I have encountered.
The transmission appears to have some sort of odd shifting issue. Is it operated with vacuum? I ask bc it feels like a vacuum issue. When in drive it feels as if the car has the hiccups. I recently learned that when my gas gauge reads 1/4 tank it really means empty. As you watch the gear indicator, it is very bouncy and never really is in the gear it claims to be in, very strange. I may have to shoot video if the problem persists past Thursday.
My other main issue is the front end feels very floaty, especially the steering. Finding suspension and steering kits seems nearly impossible although USA Parts Supply might work out well. Do you know of anyplace else? I will be assisting my mechanic on Thursday as we give the car a serious going through. Hopefully, we will either resolve many of the issues we encounter or, at the very least, develop a game plan.
An interesting factoid to bring up is that we will be moving the front seat back a few inches to accommodate my 6'5" frame. How far back do you think we can go before it looks odd? I am not worried about back seat passengers, I am worried about Bill fitting his legs underneath the steering wheel.
April 19th, 2016, 10:56 AM
#2
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Welcome to the site Bill. I believe those early automatics used a manual throttle valve that was attached to the carburetor.
FWIW, I'm 7ft tall and know your feeling. It's very difficult for me to find a modern car that will even work. I wish I could drive my 71 98 everyday.
FWIW, I'm 7ft tall and know your feeling. It's very difficult for me to find a modern car that will even work. I wish I could drive my 71 98 everyday.
April 19th, 2016, 11:29 AM
#3
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I will perform my due diligence and Google as much info as possible on the manual throttle valve. Thanks for the input.
As far as fitting in modern day cars...you can try a Subaru Outback. I would advise trying me without a moonroof if possible as the installation of a moonroof can sometimes lower the inside ceiling height. I fit inside, and currently drive, a 2015 Subaru Outback. The Forester looks taller, but you won't fit. Been there, done that. You can also look into some of the Audi vehicles, although surprisingly not the SUV's.
April 19th, 2016, 11:36 AM
#4
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The throttle valve is an actual rod connected to the back of your carburetor linkage that activates a mechanical lever on the transmission. No vacuum used.
You could very well have a vacuum leak. Have you put a vacuum gauge on the engine yet?
If it was a problem with the throttle valve on your transmission you would only detect the problem while driving down the road, your car would idle fine even if the throttle valve was out of adjustment.
My wife and I test drove a Subaru Outback last weekend. We are looking to replace her Ford Flex. It worked ok but unfortunately they didn't have one with the options I wanted.
You could very well have a vacuum leak. Have you put a vacuum gauge on the engine yet?
If it was a problem with the throttle valve on your transmission you would only detect the problem while driving down the road, your car would idle fine even if the throttle valve was out of adjustment.
As far as fitting in modern day cars...you can try a Subaru Outback
April 19th, 2016, 11:44 AM
#5
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Well, that's why there are different dealerships. Go try another dealer. The biggest issue you will find is you probably will not buy one at end of year clearance prices because they usually sell out of Outbacks before end of year. I strongly suggest that if there are specific options you want, order a 2016 or pre order a 2017 model and be prepared to wait for it. We ordered mine the weekend after Thanksgiving in 2014 and did not take delivery until the last week in March 2015.
The only real issue I have with mine is with the navigation. You cannot eliminate the voice of the navigation. Even at its lowest setting, you can still hear the voice AND the music volume is lowered automatically by the navigation. My wife does not like that the outside mirrors do not gold in automatically or that the doors do not lock automatically when you put the car in drive. All things considered, it is a very nice car and I would probably buy one again.
The only real issue I have with mine is with the navigation. You cannot eliminate the voice of the navigation. Even at its lowest setting, you can still hear the voice AND the music volume is lowered automatically by the navigation. My wife does not like that the outside mirrors do not gold in automatically or that the doors do not lock automatically when you put the car in drive. All things considered, it is a very nice car and I would probably buy one again.
April 19th, 2016, 07:14 PM
#7
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These early Hydra-Matic transmissions shift very rough, compared to modern automatics.
The abrupt shifts seem like a modern automatic with the vacuum modulator disconnected.
There is probably nothing wrong with this transmission, That's just the way it is.
There is no vacuum modulator or any other vacuum associated with this transmission.
The steering and suspension issue also sounds like much the same thing. You are trying to compare the ride and handling of this car to a more "modern" car. There is a lot of difference between this '55 and a "65 Cutlass. In the mid 50's a smooth "floating" ride was much more preferred over "handling". A lot of thinking (and engineering) changed between 1955 and 1965.
The abrupt shifts seem like a modern automatic with the vacuum modulator disconnected.
There is probably nothing wrong with this transmission, That's just the way it is.
There is no vacuum modulator or any other vacuum associated with this transmission.
The steering and suspension issue also sounds like much the same thing. You are trying to compare the ride and handling of this car to a more "modern" car. There is a lot of difference between this '55 and a "65 Cutlass. In the mid 50's a smooth "floating" ride was much more preferred over "handling". A lot of thinking (and engineering) changed between 1955 and 1965.
Last edited by Charlie Jones; April 19th, 2016 at 07:43 PM.
April 19th, 2016, 07:56 PM
#8
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There is normally some roughness of the shift between the second and third shift on slant pan hydra-matics, all others shift points can be very smooth if adjusted correctly. If the engine isn't tuned properly and has a miss or hesitation the shifts will be exaggerated and rough. Most all shift adjustments are linkage related and and must be precisely set( some with special gauges)or your mechanic will go nuts trying to set the shift points with a trial and error method, it can be done but most that do it that way have a good history of what makes the slant pan work. I suggest you find someone who grew up working on these transmissions (he will be old now ) and have them set it up. These are good robust transmissions and will work reliably for years if once set up properly..... Tedd
April 19th, 2016, 08:32 PM
#9
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If my mechanic is unable to sort things out, I believe that I might be opting to acquire a later model engine and transmission to ensure smooth operating and smooth shifting conditions. I will stick with Oldsmobile components.
I cannot fathom that the way in which this car currently functions is how it is supposed to function. If that was the case, anyone who buys one would be swapping engines and trannies for more efficient units on a regular basis. There is a difference from floaty and what this car does, this one literally floats around within the lanes while you steer straight.
I will see what happens when my mechanic and I look into things on Thursday.
I cannot fathom that the way in which this car currently functions is how it is supposed to function. If that was the case, anyone who buys one would be swapping engines and trannies for more efficient units on a regular basis. There is a difference from floaty and what this car does, this one literally floats around within the lanes while you steer straight.
I will see what happens when my mechanic and I look into things on Thursday.
April 20th, 2016, 05:08 AM
#10
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My name is Bill, I just acquired my first car older than me. Prior to this car, I collected 1965 Cutlasses and 442's. As of last Thursday, I became the caretaker of a 1955 Oldsmobile Holiday Ninety Eight Coupe. She looks beautiful, but runs a bit scary.
I have to start posting more about the troubles I have encountered.
The transmission appears to have some sort of odd shifting issue. Is it operated with vacuum? I ask bc it feels like a vacuum issue. When in drive it feels as if the car has the hiccups. I recently learned that when my gas gauge reads 1/4 tank it really means empty. As you watch the gear indicator, it is very bouncy and never really is in the gear it claims to be in, very strange. I may have to shoot video if the problem persists past Thursday.
My other main issue is the front end feels very floaty, especially the steering. Finding suspension and steering kits seems nearly impossible although USA Parts Supply might work out well. Do you know of anyplace else? I will be assisting my mechanic on Thursday as we give the car a serious going through. Hopefully, we will either resolve many of the issues we encounter or, at the very least, develop a game plan.
An interesting factoid to bring up is that we will be moving the front seat back a few inches to accommodate my 6'5" frame. How far back do you think we can go before it looks odd? I am not worried about back seat passengers, I am worried about Bill fitting his legs underneath the steering wheel.
I have to start posting more about the troubles I have encountered.
The transmission appears to have some sort of odd shifting issue. Is it operated with vacuum? I ask bc it feels like a vacuum issue. When in drive it feels as if the car has the hiccups. I recently learned that when my gas gauge reads 1/4 tank it really means empty. As you watch the gear indicator, it is very bouncy and never really is in the gear it claims to be in, very strange. I may have to shoot video if the problem persists past Thursday.
My other main issue is the front end feels very floaty, especially the steering. Finding suspension and steering kits seems nearly impossible although USA Parts Supply might work out well. Do you know of anyplace else? I will be assisting my mechanic on Thursday as we give the car a serious going through. Hopefully, we will either resolve many of the issues we encounter or, at the very least, develop a game plan.
An interesting factoid to bring up is that we will be moving the front seat back a few inches to accommodate my 6'5" frame. How far back do you think we can go before it looks odd? I am not worried about back seat passengers, I am worried about Bill fitting his legs underneath the steering wheel.
Last edited by Ancient Iron; April 20th, 2016 at 05:24 AM. Reason: info
April 20th, 2016, 06:14 AM
#11
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That '55 can be made to drive and shift properly and very satisfactorily if attended to by someone who knows what they are doing. To replace the enitre drivetrain to acheive that is quite unnecessary. I've owned 16 Olds from '36 to '79. Your car merely needs to be brought up to factory spec.
April 20th, 2016, 06:56 AM
#12
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Your first step should be to acquire an Olds chassis service manual, if you dont have one.
The front end alignment specs, as well as transmission adjustment procedures will be spelled out in it.
The steering problem sounds like it may be an alignment or steering gear adjustment issue. All components should be checked for wear and replaced if necessary before alignment.
The front end alignment specs, as well as transmission adjustment procedures will be spelled out in it.
The steering problem sounds like it may be an alignment or steering gear adjustment issue. All components should be checked for wear and replaced if necessary before alignment.
Last edited by Charlie Jones; April 20th, 2016 at 07:02 AM.
April 20th, 2016, 07:13 AM
#13
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Definitely look into getting your throttle valve adjusted if it is out of adjustment. As far as a floating feeling while driving down the road, that could be due to old suspension and steering parts. It's probably nothing to be too worried about.
April 21st, 2016, 09:23 AM
#14
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Your first step should be to acquire an Olds chassis service manual, if you dont have one.
The front end alignment specs, as well as transmission adjustment procedures will be spelled out in it.
The steering problem sounds like it may be an alignment or steering gear adjustment issue. All components should be checked for wear and replaced if necessary before alignment.
The front end alignment specs, as well as transmission adjustment procedures will be spelled out in it.
The steering problem sounds like it may be an alignment or steering gear adjustment issue. All components should be checked for wear and replaced if necessary before alignment.
April 21st, 2016, 12:00 PM
#16
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On the 1955 98, was it originally produced with a Rochester, Carter or either/or? I have a Rovhester 7007000 that was in the trunk when the car was purchased. I would like to get this rebuilt and installed if this was the original carb. I still hate Edelbrock carbs...and I would like OEM if possible.
April 21st, 2016, 07:27 PM
#18
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There is a good selection on E-Bay right now;
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from...anual&_sacat=0
Get an original copy the pictures are much clearer than the re-prints.
April 21st, 2016, 08:09 PM
#19
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Welcome Bill,don't get disgusted and go do something stupid,till you give it a chance.These are fine cars.Ancient Iron is correct in saying go back to the original 4barrel Rochester.Check out the engine first by checking all vacuum lines and tune up.By all means,buy an original '55 Olds. shop Manual. First transmission adjustment,I would make is the throttle adjustment from carb.It will not hurt anything ,first try adjusting it one round,one direction,and drive it to see if it helps,if not go back to where it was,then one round the other way and drive it again.The manual will tell you all simple adjustments.The band adjustments and possible govenor adjustments ,I would look for an older Former Oldsmobile experienced mechanic. Larry
April 21st, 2016, 08:38 PM
#20
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Today, my mechanic and I attended to my car. It is running better, but still offers a slew of issues. My car is already slightly modified. Since it is no longer "stock", if any parts are to be replaced on my car, I am not against using better, more modern parts if it improves the way the car runs and/or handles.
First, I still do not understand how to fix the transmission indicator. According to the mechanic, the problem is with the part u dear the hood. Does anyone know the correct name? He seems to think it is called a "gear selector switch", but I am certain GM gave it an official name. Are these items available in the event this one requires replacement? If so, where could I get one? Any ideas are appreciated.
Secondly, the previous owner installed lowering coil springs on the front end of this car. Based upon previous cats I have owned, I strongly suspect that the lowered spring may be adversely affecting the way the car handles. Is there one company that sells the correct spring at a good price? I would do Fusick, but they state that since they do not stock them, it will take 2-3 weeks to get them. I would rather not wait that long.
Furthermore, I understand now that these cars do not handle the same as later model year cars and nothing like the cars of today. Would the replacement of suspension or steering components improve the overall handling of the car? If that is not the answer, is there one? Also, aside from floaty steering, I have also noticed that my turning radius is not so good. Would a steering box replacement help resolve some of my issues.
Anyone gave any ideas about how to remedy a missing rear license plate light? Not just the bulb, from what I could see nothing remains. Very odd.
Has anyone ever moved a bench seat backwards to allow for more leg room in the car? What exactly did you do to accomplish this? I found out today, it is not simply a case of moving it backwards and bolting it up. The original configuration is far more complicated than that and any guidance in this area would be truly appreciated. There is a very good chance that I will be taking the car to either a body shop or possibly a metal fabrication shop to accommodate my needs.
I plan on getting my 7007000 rebuilt ASAP and reinstalled onto the car.
Finally, I am fairly certain that I am content with my present engine (it sure does make a racket), but I may actually consider replacing the transmission with something a little bit smoother. Has anybody on the forum completed such an endeavor? What transmissions would simply bolt right up and which would require customization? What do you guys think will help enhance the overall driving experience? I am obviously aware that the shifter indicator would not match up. Should I look at Turbo 350, Turbo 400, 700R4, 200R4 or something else?
Again anyone's help, opinions and thoughts would be appreciated.
First, I still do not understand how to fix the transmission indicator. According to the mechanic, the problem is with the part u dear the hood. Does anyone know the correct name? He seems to think it is called a "gear selector switch", but I am certain GM gave it an official name. Are these items available in the event this one requires replacement? If so, where could I get one? Any ideas are appreciated.
Secondly, the previous owner installed lowering coil springs on the front end of this car. Based upon previous cats I have owned, I strongly suspect that the lowered spring may be adversely affecting the way the car handles. Is there one company that sells the correct spring at a good price? I would do Fusick, but they state that since they do not stock them, it will take 2-3 weeks to get them. I would rather not wait that long.
Furthermore, I understand now that these cars do not handle the same as later model year cars and nothing like the cars of today. Would the replacement of suspension or steering components improve the overall handling of the car? If that is not the answer, is there one? Also, aside from floaty steering, I have also noticed that my turning radius is not so good. Would a steering box replacement help resolve some of my issues.
Anyone gave any ideas about how to remedy a missing rear license plate light? Not just the bulb, from what I could see nothing remains. Very odd.
Has anyone ever moved a bench seat backwards to allow for more leg room in the car? What exactly did you do to accomplish this? I found out today, it is not simply a case of moving it backwards and bolting it up. The original configuration is far more complicated than that and any guidance in this area would be truly appreciated. There is a very good chance that I will be taking the car to either a body shop or possibly a metal fabrication shop to accommodate my needs.
I plan on getting my 7007000 rebuilt ASAP and reinstalled onto the car.
Finally, I am fairly certain that I am content with my present engine (it sure does make a racket), but I may actually consider replacing the transmission with something a little bit smoother. Has anybody on the forum completed such an endeavor? What transmissions would simply bolt right up and which would require customization? What do you guys think will help enhance the overall driving experience? I am obviously aware that the shifter indicator would not match up. Should I look at Turbo 350, Turbo 400, 700R4, 200R4 or something else?
Again anyone's help, opinions and thoughts would be appreciated.
April 21st, 2016, 09:08 PM
#21
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Part of the problem with you transmission is probably with the Edelbrock carb. What is called the TV linkage is on the carb and connects to the transmission. I would be surprised if it is connected properly to the Edelbrock carb. You have the right idea about rebuilding the one that came on the car. I hope you have all the linkage. One thing I would suggest is to get an original shop manual. There are plenty of them on ebay. Be sure and get an original and not a reprint.
If somebody cut the front springs to lower the car it has probably screwed the geometry of the front suspension. You might try Kanter Automotive for the springs. You need to realize this car is over 60 years old and is not going to handle like a late model car with rack and pinion steering and antilock disk brakes. Adapting another steering box would be a monumental task and very expensive. Your car still has king pins and bushings and not ball joints. It is pretty primitive suspension.
The neutral safety switch is on top of the steering column under the hood. It makes the car start in neutral only. It also controls the shift indicator. It could be loose and that could be giving you trouble with your shift indicator. I can tell you that the shift indicator is not perfect at best.
There is no bolt in transmission for your car. Ross Racing makes a conversion for a Turbo 350 or 400. I think it is something like $2,700 plus shipping and installation. Not cheap. The old hydramatic is a great transmission but it is getting hard to find people that know anything about them.
At 5' 9" I have not had the need to move the seat back so I can't help you there. As for the license plate light, I would suggest posting a parts wanted ad on this website and watching ebay. Ebay becomes your evil friend.
Old cars take lots of patience and money. Be prepared for that. When somebody gives you a thumbs up or tells you what a nice car you have, it all becomes worth it. Good luck with your car.
If somebody cut the front springs to lower the car it has probably screwed the geometry of the front suspension. You might try Kanter Automotive for the springs. You need to realize this car is over 60 years old and is not going to handle like a late model car with rack and pinion steering and antilock disk brakes. Adapting another steering box would be a monumental task and very expensive. Your car still has king pins and bushings and not ball joints. It is pretty primitive suspension.
The neutral safety switch is on top of the steering column under the hood. It makes the car start in neutral only. It also controls the shift indicator. It could be loose and that could be giving you trouble with your shift indicator. I can tell you that the shift indicator is not perfect at best.
There is no bolt in transmission for your car. Ross Racing makes a conversion for a Turbo 350 or 400. I think it is something like $2,700 plus shipping and installation. Not cheap. The old hydramatic is a great transmission but it is getting hard to find people that know anything about them.
At 5' 9" I have not had the need to move the seat back so I can't help you there. As for the license plate light, I would suggest posting a parts wanted ad on this website and watching ebay. Ebay becomes your evil friend.
Old cars take lots of patience and money. Be prepared for that. When somebody gives you a thumbs up or tells you what a nice car you have, it all becomes worth it. Good luck with your car.
Last edited by redoldsman; April 22nd, 2016 at 03:33 AM.
April 22nd, 2016, 02:56 AM
#22
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Bill ,there's a Shop manual on eBay for $20. Purchase it!
www.glasshouseauto.com has a rebuildable Rochester 4 Barrel for $70.
Eaton Detroit Spring Company has new correct front Coils for $169 a set.
After purchasing these items ,I will watch the post,then I will be open to give further advice.
Don't aim to sound harsh, but you have been advised by several to purchase a Shop manual (the future of your car problems being corrected,)and I missed it if that problem has been addressed. Larry
www.glasshouseauto.com has a rebuildable Rochester 4 Barrel for $70.
Eaton Detroit Spring Company has new correct front Coils for $169 a set.
After purchasing these items ,I will watch the post,then I will be open to give further advice.
Don't aim to sound harsh, but you have been advised by several to purchase a Shop manual (the future of your car problems being corrected,)and I missed it if that problem has been addressed. Larry
Last edited by Rocketowner; April 22nd, 2016 at 03:01 AM. Reason: Add
April 22nd, 2016, 04:27 AM
#23
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I think you should return the car to factory stock condition(ex carb ,springs etc.etc) It will be easier than the changing motor and transmission, And every thing will work as it was designed to.
Your car is 61 years old and survived, I would not have the heart to change it around and lose the originality ,To me that's the fun of it I want it to drive like a 61 year old car. If I want modern performance I buy a new car. Just my 2cents
Your car is 61 years old and survived, I would not have the heart to change it around and lose the originality ,To me that's the fun of it I want it to drive like a 61 year old car. If I want modern performance I buy a new car. Just my 2cents
April 22nd, 2016, 06:02 AM
#24
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I decided to sell my car after finding out that my wife's lower back problems have been diagnosed as inoperable. With some regrets,I decided that I would sell it . in order to limit my time of being away most weekends at a "Car Show".
I sold it Monday for $20,500 and buyer is paying a friend of mine to haul it 542 miles to North Carolina.
I have no doubt that if it had not been 95 % original "it would not have brought this price."
It having less than 51k miles I would not have hesitated to drive it to him ,if the road conditions had been a better situation.
These cars can still be very dependable after 61 years, if they are put back into original condition. You can view pictures of mine on my photo albums. To all my C.O. Friends, I will still be participating,,you are still stuck with me !
Best of luck with your's Bill. Larry
I sold it Monday for $20,500 and buyer is paying a friend of mine to haul it 542 miles to North Carolina.
I have no doubt that if it had not been 95 % original "it would not have brought this price."
It having less than 51k miles I would not have hesitated to drive it to him ,if the road conditions had been a better situation.
These cars can still be very dependable after 61 years, if they are put back into original condition. You can view pictures of mine on my photo albums. To all my C.O. Friends, I will still be participating,,you are still stuck with me !
Best of luck with your's Bill. Larry
Last edited by Rocketowner; April 22nd, 2016 at 06:10 AM. Reason: Add
April 22nd, 2016, 06:28 AM
#26
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First, I still do not understand how to fix the transmission indicator. According to the mechanic, the problem is with the part u dear the hood. Does anyone know the correct name? He seems to think it is called a "gear selector switch", but I am certain GM gave it an official name. Are these items available in the event this one requires replacement? If so, where could I get one? Any ideas are appreciated.
http://www.fusickautomotiveproducts....number=1998026
April 22nd, 2016, 10:34 AM
#29
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I decided to sell my car after finding out that my wife's lower back problems have been diagnosed as inoperable. With some regrets,I decided that I would sell it . in order to limit my time of being away most weekends at a "Car Show".
I sold it Monday for $20,500 and buyer is paying a friend of mine to haul it 542 miles to North Carolina.
I have no doubt that if it had not been 95 % original "it would not have brought this price."
It having less than 51k miles I would not have hesitated to drive it to him ,if the road conditions had been a better situation.
These cars can still be very dependable after 61 years, if they are put back into original condition. You can view pictures of mine on my photo albums. To all my C.O. Friends, I will still be participating,,you are still stuck with me !
Best of luck with your's Bill. Larry
I sold it Monday for $20,500 and buyer is paying a friend of mine to haul it 542 miles to North Carolina.
I have no doubt that if it had not been 95 % original "it would not have brought this price."
It having less than 51k miles I would not have hesitated to drive it to him ,if the road conditions had been a better situation.
These cars can still be very dependable after 61 years, if they are put back into original condition. You can view pictures of mine on my photo albums. To all my C.O. Friends, I will still be participating,,you are still stuck with me !
Best of luck with your's Bill. Larry
Bill
April 22nd, 2016, 07:17 PM
#30
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Bill ,if you have the time ,do some serious reading in the Transmission Section of the Oldsmobile Shop Manual. It covers the Hydramatics very well.
What part of the country do you call home? If you are lucky, maybe there will be a very knowledgeable ex- Olds mechanic who might still have some recollection of the Hydramatic's and could help with some good advice. Do you know anyone that was a mechanic in tlhe service? Some Army tanks had the same transmissions as the early '50's
Olds.
Thanks for the concerns concerning my wife,she plans to see a neurological surgeon soon. Sure hope he can find an answer to help !
To "Redoldsman " I may not own an Oldsmobile now,But you guys still have to put up with me! Best of luck, Larry
What part of the country do you call home? If you are lucky, maybe there will be a very knowledgeable ex- Olds mechanic who might still have some recollection of the Hydramatic's and could help with some good advice. Do you know anyone that was a mechanic in tlhe service? Some Army tanks had the same transmissions as the early '50's
Olds.
Thanks for the concerns concerning my wife,she plans to see a neurological surgeon soon. Sure hope he can find an answer to help !
To "Redoldsman " I may not own an Oldsmobile now,But you guys still have to put up with me! Best of luck, Larry
Last edited by Rocketowner; April 23rd, 2016 at 03:52 AM. Reason: Correction
April 23rd, 2016, 05:20 PM
#33
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Posts: 7,721
I've been out of town for the last few days and came in late on this post. Rocketowner, so sorry for your wife's back issues and of course the sale of your 55. Your help on these old rides has been much appreciated, hope to see your posts continue. Best of luck on your wife's recovery.
Williamaronson don't give up on your 55 it can be restored back to it's previous glory probably much cheaper than if you start pulling parts off and trying a mix and match approach. Keep in mind that slant pan transmission has been in everything from Royal Royce's to Stewart tanks and is the transmission that made B & M famous in the 60's . They are a tried and proven transmission. When set up correctly they are bullet proof and will take 600 HP in stock form. The hard part is finding someone to diagnose what has been changed and needs to be adjusted. The Rochester carburetor you need is the 4GC. They come up from time to time on ebay or put a request in on the parts wanted forum. They are not that scarce and it will be lots easier to set the shift linkage up if you start with the linkage with all the parts in the correct place.
Not bragging but my car has been all over the Western US and Canada, probably close to 40,000 miles now total in all kinds of weather..... No problems. If you build it like it was when new it will haul you anywhere it would 60 years ago except with much more class in today's world. Ya, it won't stop as quick as a 4 disk brake car but plenty good enough and a socker mom will out run you at a stoplight in her BMW, it will steer like a boat and it turns like a boat but that why they call them old boats and it's part of the ambiance of driving a car that was new over half a century ago. It's your car and your money so do what you want with it but the remark I get the most is.... And it's still stock?
Best of luck in your build , let us know if we can help no mater which way you go..... Lost in the fifties ... Tedd
Williamaronson don't give up on your 55 it can be restored back to it's previous glory probably much cheaper than if you start pulling parts off and trying a mix and match approach. Keep in mind that slant pan transmission has been in everything from Royal Royce's to Stewart tanks and is the transmission that made B & M famous in the 60's . They are a tried and proven transmission. When set up correctly they are bullet proof and will take 600 HP in stock form. The hard part is finding someone to diagnose what has been changed and needs to be adjusted. The Rochester carburetor you need is the 4GC. They come up from time to time on ebay or put a request in on the parts wanted forum. They are not that scarce and it will be lots easier to set the shift linkage up if you start with the linkage with all the parts in the correct place.
Not bragging but my car has been all over the Western US and Canada, probably close to 40,000 miles now total in all kinds of weather..... No problems. If you build it like it was when new it will haul you anywhere it would 60 years ago except with much more class in today's world. Ya, it won't stop as quick as a 4 disk brake car but plenty good enough and a socker mom will out run you at a stoplight in her BMW, it will steer like a boat and it turns like a boat but that why they call them old boats and it's part of the ambiance of driving a car that was new over half a century ago. It's your car and your money so do what you want with it but the remark I get the most is.... And it's still stock?
Best of luck in your build , let us know if we can help no mater which way you go..... Lost in the fifties ... Tedd
Last edited by Tedd Thompson; April 23rd, 2016 at 06:22 PM.
April 24th, 2016, 03:46 PM
#37
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 52
Ok, just looking to fish a little while I await parts to be delivered...
I am not at all pleased by the steering radius on my 98. It seems near impossible to make a U turn without making it a three point turn. Does that sound normal to you guys or is my car just behaving badly? Would a simple rebuild of the gear box or a replacement gear box be the answer? What company manufactured the power steering gear box in the 1955 98? What about finding a box with a better ratio? Any thoughts and opinions will be appreciated, as always.
Have any of you changed your boxes, had yours modified? I prefer having it remain stock looking if possible.
I am not at all pleased by the steering radius on my 98. It seems near impossible to make a U turn without making it a three point turn. Does that sound normal to you guys or is my car just behaving badly? Would a simple rebuild of the gear box or a replacement gear box be the answer? What company manufactured the power steering gear box in the 1955 98? What about finding a box with a better ratio? Any thoughts and opinions will be appreciated, as always.
Have any of you changed your boxes, had yours modified? I prefer having it remain stock looking if possible.
April 24th, 2016, 07:02 PM
#38
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Forest Ranch Ca.
Posts: 7,721
I run the original steering box and don't notice much difference from any other car with near the same wheelbase but my car is a 88 and a little shorter. I do notice that it takes a turn or two more on the wheel to point it where I intend to go but there again one gets accustom to that quirk pretty quickly. Before you change anything I would have a front end shop look it over and see if it is going from stop to stop. Just a guess on my part but It sounds like the previous owner may have changed something when it was lowered.
There is a rebuilder many use who does the early boxes but others will have to chime in with a name and address, I've never needed that service..... Luck with your build.... Tedd
There is a rebuilder many use who does the early boxes but others will have to chime in with a name and address, I've never needed that service..... Luck with your build.... Tedd
April 24th, 2016, 07:42 PM
#39
Proud Viet Nam Veteran
Join Date: Dec 2006
Location: Rowlett, TX
Posts: 9,955
Chip is the guy at Power Steering Services, Inc in Springfield, Missouri. Great guy. You might want to call him and get some expert advice. He is a very nice guy. Here is the link:
http://www.powersteering.com/
http://www.powersteering.com/
April 28th, 2016, 08:55 AM
#40
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Mar 2016
Posts: 52
Just trying to figure out my carburetor issue.
I need a rebuilt 7007000 carburetor. I will settle for a build able core at a fair price with fair shipping fees. One thing that I have received differing responses on...can I use the 1956 7007221 carburetor on a 1955 98? I read something somewhere that the 1956 spread is different than the 1955 and I have heard the opposite as well. This leaves me confused.
One part of me would like to use the original carb, but I might be able to acquire a 7007221 at a reasonable price.
As always, any thought and ideas would be appreciated.
I need a rebuilt 7007000 carburetor. I will settle for a build able core at a fair price with fair shipping fees. One thing that I have received differing responses on...can I use the 1956 7007221 carburetor on a 1955 98? I read something somewhere that the 1956 spread is different than the 1955 and I have heard the opposite as well. This leaves me confused.
One part of me would like to use the original carb, but I might be able to acquire a 7007221 at a reasonable price.
As always, any thought and ideas would be appreciated.
