Stuck distributor
#2
This is a common problem. Remove the hold down bolt and clamp, spray liberally with penetrating oil. Then start working it loose. Sometimes a thin piece of wood and small hammer tapping upwards will get it out, or an oil filter wrench on top of the housing twisting from side to side. As it loosens keep adding penetrant.
When you finally get it removed replace the oring and clean the mating surfaces.
When you finally get it removed replace the oring and clean the mating surfaces.
#3
If the engine runs, warm it before applying the penetrant. As it cools it will wick in the penetrant. The culprit can also be sludge instead of corrosion so the answer may be spray carb cleaner. Patience is the key to not breaking the housing.
Remember you can compensate somewhat on timing adjustment if needed through dwell adjustment; but, not dwell compensation through timing.
Remember you can compensate somewhat on timing adjustment if needed through dwell adjustment; but, not dwell compensation through timing.
#4
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Most often it's just a case of brute force to pop it out. Leverage with a long 2x3 will probably work best.
Either that or you have to kill the little gremlin inside that's holding onto it for all he's worth.
Either that or you have to kill the little gremlin inside that's holding onto it for all he's worth.
#5
I, like everyone else, will assume that you mean the housing and not the shaft. The advice you have is good. However, I once had one that was so stuck it would not budge with those measures. I ended up "pressing it out using bolts and coupling sleeves. Whatever you use, be sure the force is uniform around the distributor. Unbalanced forces can cause broken castings. After you get it out do through cleaning without dropping crud in the engine and use some anti-seize on the return trip.
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chris83
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August 18th, 2012 01:47 PM