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The sickness has started..... 1971

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Old Nov 16, 2017 | 06:34 PM
  #1  
71oldscutty's Avatar
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The sickness has started..... 1971

With the push of my cousin I picked up my first Olds. I am still trying to figure out what has been done to it and what it was originally. It currently is Black - looks to have originally been Blue. The seats were mismatched - white back seat with some kind of aftermarket buckets. The center console is an olds but the shifter doesn't match anything I have seen. It currently has a 455 with a TH400 trans. The front half of the floor pans have holes in them, the brakes were locked up and the transmission linkage wasn't hooked up. You had to start the car in drive and once you got it going it didn't have any brakes. Getting it into the garage was FUN. I have attached the body plate and the VIN - any help decoding would be greatly appreciated. Has anyone had floors done in the Oklahoma City area?


Old Nov 16, 2017 | 06:53 PM
  #2  
rcorrigan5's Avatar
Randy C.
 
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 3,348
From: Albany, OR
First the VIN: 336871R128089

3 = GM division = Oldsmobile

36 = model series = Cutlass V8

87 = body type = hardtop coupe

1 = model year = 1971

R = assembly plant = Arlington TX

128089 = assembly plant sequential number

Next the trim tag:

ST 71 = style/model year = 1971

33687 R : same as in your VIN

08901 BDY = Fisher body number (has no relationship to the plant sequential number in your VIN)

TR 930 = interior color & front seat type = black with bucket seats

26 B PNT = lower & upper body colors = viking blue (26) with a black vinyl top (B)

02D = time build code = February (02), fourth week of that month (D), 1971

I don't know what the 355 means. Hopefully someone else will be able to decode that for you!

Randy C.
Old Nov 16, 2017 | 06:53 PM
  #3  
don71's Avatar
same but different
 
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Posts: 2,968
From: Central Missouri
Welcome to the site.
You have a 1971 cutlass S that was code 26 viking blue, built in Arlington Texas I believe. The 930 is a interior seat/color option, I forget which one.

Someone else can decipher more exactly than I.

Show us some pictures of the console/shifter and seats and someone can give you a better answer. Heck, show us some pictures of the whole car. We like Oldsmobiles!

Edit: I see randy got you all fixed up. Show us some more about your car.

Last edited by don71; Nov 16, 2017 at 06:56 PM. Reason: Randy
Old Nov 16, 2017 | 07:02 PM
  #4  
71oldscutty's Avatar
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Thank you for the quick responses. I will grab some more pics tomorrow and I stand corrected. I just saw the exact same center console set up for sale in the classifieds! Now to find some decent black bucket seats to have redone. Thanks for the help guys. A lot of good information here! I think I'm going to have to make it Blue again when its time for paint.
Old Nov 17, 2017 | 03:12 AM
  #5  
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Welcome to the site, congrats on your new toy.
Old Nov 19, 2017 | 03:11 PM
  #6  
71oldscutty's Avatar
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Complete New Guy Question

I have been working on the Cutlass today, Front brakes are fixed, fuel leak is fixed and now I am working on the transmission linkage. I went and picked up a new cable at Obsolete Parts here in OKC. Why wont these two match up. With the oil and grease on the transmission I know this thing has been driven, how can it be this far off? Is this a situation where I can simply loosen the shift bracket and move the lever to match to cable? Or do I need to find a way to adjust the cable bracket so it meets where the transmission is. All I really know at this point is that it did start and drive with the transmission in first gear and now it is in park.
My guess is there has to be something wrong with the transmission for it to have been unhooked and this far off..... I wont know until I get it hooked back up.
Thanks for the help.

Old Nov 26, 2017 | 07:07 PM
  #7  
71oldscutty's Avatar
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I thought I would come back and post some progress pics......

The rear half of the pans and back seat pans just look to have surface rust on them. IS there any type of product that I can put down to keep the rust from continuing? Anyone had luck with this?






Old Nov 27, 2017 | 09:43 AM
  #8  
Greg Rogers's Avatar
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Posts: 5,586
From: Harrison, Michigan
Is it possible that the bracket is bolted to the wrong 2 pan bolts? If moved to the next set of bolts rearward would that work? I use a rust converter called OSHBO. It comes in a gallon jug and you spray it on rusty metal with a spray bottle. There are lots of products out there I don't know if they help stop rust for sure or not.
Old Nov 27, 2017 | 10:33 AM
  #9  
Fun71's Avatar
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From: Phoenix, AZ
Interesting. The front end shot of your car shows it has metal 1971 Supreme grilles, complete with the Cutlass Supreme script emblem. I wonder is it had front end damage at some point and parts from a Supreme donor car were installed.
Old Nov 27, 2017 | 02:12 PM
  #10  
1967Supreeeme's Avatar
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I’ve been using Rust Bullet for awhile now and it’s a great product. Order it direct from rustbullet.com. They claim GM is using it now. Similar to POR-15 but doesn’t require a special primer if you want to paint over it.
Old Nov 28, 2017 | 07:41 AM
  #11  
Tedd Thompson's Avatar
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Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 7,743
From: Forest Ranch Ca.
Try Rust Destroyer, best I've ever used, holds up for years. It works much like a rust converter and a rust preventive red primer all in one.Give it a try you won't be disappointed...Tedd

http://www.rust007.com
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