Sympathetic sickness strikes [HELP!]
#1
Sympathetic sickness strikes [HELP!]
Go ahead, laugh. It's amazing how little I know about the oily bits of the hundreds of cars I test, but that's because if something goes "boom" they come get it and get me another one.
Then I go and break my arm, nixing both things I'm certifiably good at: driving and writing.
Still, an '89 Custom Cruiser is an easy "one-armer", so I could still get around. For six months everything went great, but as soon as I got better enough to drive again, my Olds won't start.
I'm not COMPLETELY dumb about this stuff so here's a list of what's been checked:
AIR: the intake, housing, filter, etc. are new;
FUEL: the filter could be clogged, but she's always had 98 proof exhaust, so the fuel is getting all the way to the tailpipe (and out);
SPARK: this is the culprit I'm looking into, as her new battery cranks for all its worth (for as long as you care to hear the "rurr rurr rurr" sound), and you can hear the engine TRYING to start, like you're just one more crank away from her finally lighting up.
Do 307 V8s have any special issues and/or things stupidly easy to fix? I've replaced coils, distributors and lots of other things, but those were for my Volvo 240 and you could practically stand between the engine and fender wells and everything was clearly laid out.
SO, I'm looking at towing her to the shop or fixing her myself. If its going to be hard and/or expensive, I gotta go with the shop option. If I can replace something relatively easily on my own, then I'm golden.
Either that, or I have to re-break my arm so she'll start working again. I'm not totally opposed to the idea, but I'd have to be SURE it'd work...
Then I go and break my arm, nixing both things I'm certifiably good at: driving and writing.
Still, an '89 Custom Cruiser is an easy "one-armer", so I could still get around. For six months everything went great, but as soon as I got better enough to drive again, my Olds won't start.
I'm not COMPLETELY dumb about this stuff so here's a list of what's been checked:
AIR: the intake, housing, filter, etc. are new;
FUEL: the filter could be clogged, but she's always had 98 proof exhaust, so the fuel is getting all the way to the tailpipe (and out);
SPARK: this is the culprit I'm looking into, as her new battery cranks for all its worth (for as long as you care to hear the "rurr rurr rurr" sound), and you can hear the engine TRYING to start, like you're just one more crank away from her finally lighting up.
Do 307 V8s have any special issues and/or things stupidly easy to fix? I've replaced coils, distributors and lots of other things, but those were for my Volvo 240 and you could practically stand between the engine and fender wells and everything was clearly laid out.
SO, I'm looking at towing her to the shop or fixing her myself. If its going to be hard and/or expensive, I gotta go with the shop option. If I can replace something relatively easily on my own, then I'm golden.
Either that, or I have to re-break my arm so she'll start working again. I'm not totally opposed to the idea, but I'd have to be SURE it'd work...
#2
I'd check the spark, with the thought that the HEI module (or maybe the sensor) could have gone bad.
There are a lot of other possibilities, but that's my first guess, and easy enough to check.
- Eric
There are a lot of other possibilities, but that's my first guess, and easy enough to check.
- Eric
#3
Several obvious things to check, if you haven't already.
1) Remove the air cleaner. With the engine cold, floor the throttle once and release. Is the choke plate closed? If yes, proceed to 2), if no, fix or adjust the choke.
2) With the air cleaner off, hold the choke plate open, and look down the primary bores while pumping the throttle. Do you see fuel squirting out of the accelerator pump shooters? If yes, proceed to 3), if no, you have a fuel delivery problem.
3) Remove one spark plug wire from the plug. If possible get a spark tester, or if not, use a spark plug (you can temporarily remove the one from the cylinder) and insert it into the plug end of the wire. Ground the tester (or the threaded end of the plug), away from the carb. Crank the engine. Do you see spark? If yes, proceed to 4), if no, fix ignition problem.
4) Reinstall the plug wire (and plug) removed in step 2. Hook up a timing light to the #1 plug. Crank the engine while looking at the timing mark. Is the mark close to correct (~16 deg BTDC)? If yes, proceed to 5), if no, replace timing chain.
5) Inspect every inch of the 3.7 miles of vacuum lines on the motor. Repair or replace any questionable hoses. Verify that all are correctly hooked up. Verify that the EGR valve isn't stuck open. If this doesn't fix the problem, you have a more complex or internal issue.
#4
#5
The reality is that even with a crappy spark, the engine would likely start. I don't recall the number of miles on this car, but unfortunately a car that is running fine one day then isn't the next day is often in need of a new timing set. Not that this happened to MY 307 Custom Cruiser...
Edit: I just read the sig line:
I think we have a winner...
#7
The reality is that even with a crappy spark, the engine would likely start... unfortunately a car that is running fine one day then isn't the next day is often in need of a new timing set...
I just read the sig line: "'Angie' 1989 Olds Custom Cruiser wagon, 180,000 miles"
I think we have a winner...
I just read the sig line: "'Angie' 1989 Olds Custom Cruiser wagon, 180,000 miles"
I think we have a winner...
I hadn't noticed that either, so, of course, that could sure as heck do it.
That being said, spark is the other thing that can make it run one day (or minute) and not the next.
I also wanted to clarify the spark point in general - someone not experienced with cars (or lawnmowers) might not instinctively be able to tell the difference between a very good spark and a very bad spark, and would check that off his list as "Good," when it was actually the culprit.
- Eric
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June 14th, 2012 07:14 PM