Hello Olds-friends,

I just finished fine-tuning my "new-to-me" 72 Olds Cutlass Convertible (350 2bbl). After a nerve racking experience of buying a car halfway across the country, I am happy to say the car is in excellent shape, both mechanically and structurally.

With little effort required on my part, everything works on this car (right down to the AC), which was a pleasant surprise. The only significant investment was replacing the coil springs, which, with some advice from this forum, was painless and surprisingly cheap.

So the car is solid, except for one (actually two) issues:

1. Glove box is locked, but I've got some good advice from this forum
2. Stereo is pretty awful; need advice

The stereo is a Kenwood with a tape deck. First problem is, after about 2 minutes the stereo shorts out and resets all the stations (defaulting to 85.5)

Furthermore, its connected to the original, center of dash speaker, which sounds like an old transistor radio.

OPGI offers several Kenwood retro-style stereos, along with pre-fab kick panels with Kenwood speakers. Seems like a nice solution for about $500, but has anyone ever used these, and, if so, can they provide feedback?

Any other suggestions?

Cheers!

 

I have similar kick panel speakers in my car and they sound good.
I also have speaker boxes with 6x9 coax in the rear and a 100 watt amp drives both the front and rear.

My radio is an old AM/FM/cassette deck from the 90s, but it does have RCA preamp outputs. I like it because it looks so old no one would want to steal it.

Sounds as if your stereo is resetting because it is losing power on the "constant" line. I would check the wiring to make sure there isn't something loose - this is assuming it happens while driving (vibrations) and not while sitting still, with the engine off. If that's the case, it likely has a thermal issue and needs to be repaired or replaced.

If you replace it, I have no suggestions. I tried one of the Classic Audio retro radios a few years ago and I sent it back because it was so cheap and crappy sounding. I'm sure there are a bung of better radios on the market these days, just depends upon what features yo want and how much you're willing to spend.

 

Thanks for the info Kenneth. Gotta admit, I'm approaching this without much knowledge. I will check wiring first, but either way, the radio is poor fit, with the original dial cutouts showing. Plus, I'm not sure how to identify wiring for front/rear speakers or RCA outputs, on this particular Kenwood. Couple other questions:

Where did you put the speaker boxes? I assume those don't require any mounting, being boxes.

Also, is the 100 watt amp necessary to supply the power? I'm going to make a wild assumption that the radio itself does not supply the correct amperage…

I am considering OPGI Ken Harrison 300 series… (200 watts) https://www.opgi.com/cutlass/1972/mo...nents/C240482/

 

I installed the amp because the radio output was fairly weak - something like 20 Watts (which in car radio language probably means 20 Watts at 1% distortion, or maybe 10 Watts at a useable distortion level). Anyway, it was really weak and didn't have enough umph for me to really hear the speakers while driving with the top down.

The speaker boxes pretty much live on the back seat pointing forward (amazingly they stay put with the way I drive), but they can go on the floorboard pointing upwards if needed. When the top is up and I have back seat passengers, I put the boxes in the top well (sounds great with the sound reflecting off the rear window). When I have rear seat passengers with the top down, there are RCA plugs on the wiring so I can disconnect the boxes and put them in the trunk. The front and rear speakers are wired in parallel so that when I disconnect the rears, the fronts are still powered off the 2-channel amp.

I would want to see the specs on that radio. If the rated power is at 1% or more THD, then it's not useable power. As I said above, car audio makers love to advertise inflated power ratings.

 

Good morning,
I have a 68 Cutlass Conv and I ordered one from USA parts supply, which was labelled up as an Oldsmobile unit so it looks the part. Its great with the roof down but a bit crappy with the roof up. I also put in a DVD Player and screen linked through the radio which is fantastic as I managed to hide all of the equipment.
When mine was fitted I was missing the cut out panel so I got an original one from this site for a few bucks. To me the biggest problem is where to put the rear speakers. I still haven't found a good solution as I dont want to put them in the rear panels, would be nice to know what other people have done.

 

I have kick panel speakers in enclosures from Custom Auto Sound in my '69 442 convertible. For fit, they're pretty good. The finish is a little shiny -- not a great match with the other plastic in there, but not intolerable either. Couple of problems, though: the ABS is a little thin and this makes the enclosure buzz at different frequencies. I ended up reinforcing mine with extra insulation and adhesive. Also, the enclosure is pretty small, so don't expect too much in the way of bass response no matter what speakers you use (the "premium" 6.5-in. Kenwood speakers supplied really aren't -- I replaced mine with Focals). Unless you want to put a subwoofer in the trunk (I didn't -- I just live with the limited frequency response).


Other than that, they're great.

 

Disappointing to hear the Kenwoods aren't very good., as that's what I ordered from Vintage Auto Radio, along with the 200 watt Ken Harrison (which might be overkill, but I have yet to buy rear speakers which I expect to provide bigger sound).

Might've jumped the gun, guess I'll have to wait and see

 

Well, I got mine several years ago. Maybe they've improved since.

 

I had the same opinion of them. I thought about painting them with a semi-flat black paint/vinyl dye but never got around to it.

I drilled a hole and added a screw to each panel, plus put some thick insulation behind the panels and that stopped the buzzing/rattling.

 

I just slathered mine with upholstery adhesive and laid in this stuff they call "brown bread" -- an aptly-named insulation made for audio applications. Worked well enough -- they don't buzz any more.

 

Picking up my old thread...
After two long months I just received my kick panel speakers and new retro stereo. 300 watt ken Harris with 300 watt 6.5" kenwoods. From all I've read I might need additional tweeter speakers, but gonna start with this.

Before I begin the install, looking for any tips/advice - from installing stereo and kick panels to running wire (front and rear, tho I'm not installing rear speakers at this time -I don't want to cut any panels and, being a convertible, my placement options are limited.)

I have 14 gauge wire and all necessary connectors. Just got to figure out necessary wire lengths and the best way to run the wire under the carpet.

Do I need to connect the windshield antenna, or is it okay to leave it untouched, in the harness (the yellow wire is sealed, so I'd have to cut it and add a connector)..?

As I say, any and all tips are much appreciated.

 

Well I am going the el cheapo route... I bought a splitter cable and 2 canz speakers to set on the back seat... about $50 bucks, simple to install, and sounds better than what was in there... probably cant hear it over the exhaust anyway.

 

I'm not really sure what you are meaning. The antenna wire is a coaxial cable and you have to connect it to the radio if you want to pick up broadcast radio stations. It's been a while since I looked at the radio wiring but I thought the yellow wire was a power feed.

 

Fun71 you are totally correct... I misinterpreted the diagram.... FYI, Ken Harrison KHE300 radio sounds/looks great with the kenwood kick panel speakers. Impressive retro look with genuine faux "dial" display However, the radio is cheap feeling.. All plastic, very light... Dials don't fit well (had to wedge them on), weak push buttons feel like they may break eventually.

Happy for now... Sounds and looks 1000x better than the center speaker, for just over $400

 

Anyone considered using outdoor "jewel" speakers for the rear sound on a convertible? Like a few other posters, I don't want to modify/compromise the interior in any way.

So, was on my patio deck where I have Bose outdoor speakers, and it occurred to me that might be a solid solution. Just leave them on the seat, floor or boot and take them out when people are in the back.

anybody have thoughts, pros or cons on that?

 

A friend of mine had a set in his car and they sounded good. I was thinking about using similar speakers but I'm, uh, very frugal, and discovered a set of boxes and 6x9 coax speakers were much cheaper.

 

@Sunshn which stereo did you end up buying? Would you recommend it?

Sorry for being off-topic. I'm looking for a good stereo and can't make my mind up which one is the best.

There are so many aftermarket stereos that it's hard to find a good one. Many of them have one digit difference in their name. Anyways I've been reading reviews on the nets and they are all hype. Most of them downplay the negatives and hype features like 7" as if it would be that important. I've found a different blog and I've set my heart on the pioneer avh 1550nex. The thing I liked about this blog is that it says it how it is. No sugar coating no BS. This 1550nex review is a bit critical. It has highlighted some flaws that put me on the fence. What do you say?

Any tips?

 

hello Armando, you're post reads a bit like an advert! But, let me say that while I'm not entirely thrilled with the retro-style radio I purchased back in 2015 when I posted this thread (the buttons are flimsy, and, it lacks some important technology, like Bluetooth), I'm not a fan of putting ANYTHING that anachronistic (look it up, great word!) in my car. I prefer to keep everything as orignal as I possibly can. Which is why I hate the paint on my car and, if it weren't so perfect, I'd return to the original metalic pea-green color : )

 

After a lot of work putting a stereo in the glove box, speakers behind rear seat (convertible) and foot wells, in my Cutlass and being unhappy with the result, here is what I plan to do with another old truck I am working on. Cell phone and blue tooth speaker. Seriously... Have you heard those speakers you can buy for $50-100? They sound great, are wireless, stereo and small. No holes in doors, under rear window and cowl panel, etc... I always have my phone with me, and you can take the speaker out with you to have tunes anywhere! I think you can stream your favorite FM stations? Oh.also no antenna!

 

Armando, here's where I went. I used this unit from Antique Automobile Radio....AM/FM, Bluetooth, Hands free cell phone. Coupled with kick panel and door speakers, along with an Alpine amp mounted in the trunk.



New radio on top, original on bottom

 

I installed a Kenwood bluetooth capable stereo in my 71 98 similar to this one (it's just the older model):



It works great and I didn't butcher the dash installing it since I used a universal box on the floor. Here's my install thread:

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...1-98-a-112090/

 

The 8-track AM / FM radios still work in both the '70 Nova & '76 Cutlass. So, I wanted to leave them in tact. Naturally, I wanted a modern system in each, as well, but didn't want to use the glove box. I decided to search for a small receiver unit that might fit in the forward storage area (under the dash) in my console. Ultimately, I found marine units that are round and only 4" in diameter and just under 4" deep. After fabricating a mounting face and brackets inside the console the unit not only fits perfect but, the door still closes and hides it from view. It comes with a USB port, Bluetooth etc. For the mounting face plate I used 0.250" thick black ridged plastic and 0.50" aluminum angle for the bracing. I added (2) three way Pioneers to the back package tray. Both original & new systems are in working order.

For the Nova, I picked up an electrical enclosure from Home Depot, painted it black cut holes as needed and placed it just after the very short stock console. Then after that...a very nice after market console my kids gave me for Christmas.

Both sound great and offer a neat clean package. In the pictures you might see the back-up cameras I added.

Sorry the picture is so big. Will post a couple more...

 

The Nova set up...

 

I like that!!

 

I had no idea there were gauge pod size / shape radios. Those are way cool and could be installed lots of places where a traditional radio wouldn't fit.
Thanks for sharing!

 

x2

BTW KW5413, which radios did you install in your Olds and Nova? A quick Amazon search for "boat stereo" revealed many different options, but I didn't see any that matched the ones you installed.

 

Dual MGH37BT for the Cutlass & Dual MGH17BT. Both have remotes but, the Dual MGH37BT seems to have more features.

Pricing for these are wide ranging so watch that closely.

I, also, added this USB extension so I could flush mount it to the fabricated face plate in the Cutlass. Didn't need it on the Nova. $ 13.00...Amazon Prime.

https://bossaudio.com/product/car-wi...-audio-musb35/

 

For the Nova, I used a 4" X 4" electrical enclosure so, not a lot of fabrication involved with that one. Industrial (15 ILB Velcro strips) hold it to the carpet and end of the console. Fot the carpet contact, all that is needed is the "rough" side of the Velcro. I had considered 3.5" Schedule 40 PVC pipe but, didn't think it would go well mounting it next to a flat edged console. Plus, that size PVC is not a common find at Home Depot or Lowe's. Plumbing suppliy house quantity / pricing was disqualifying.

The mounting possibilities are endless with these things.

 

A little harder to get good pics but, here are a couple on the Cutlass install. The close-up shows the flush mount USB on the fabricated face plate.






Overall view with original stereo in place.

 

Thats where I went

I bought 1 of these - it plays stereo BUT add a 2nd one and EACH one can become a left and right OR get stereo from each
Charge lasts 8 hours - Rated one of the loudest Bluetooth speakers
I just lays in my back seat, it is pretty heavy and stays put (unless you crash or something) I suppose you could velcro it or something ... put it on the floor anywhere ...
It will charge while playing so it will never be dead if you have a cigarette lighter plugin USB adapter
I downloaded a free equalizer for my smartphone and that allowed it to be tweaked just how I like the sound +-

NOT the best car stereo but simple and cheap ($100) I'll Probably buy another this spring

LOL and you can take it with you when you get out of the car to use where ever you go +-

Oontz Angle 3XL Ultra: Portable Bluetooth Speaker, Enhanced Bass 24 Watts Power Louder Volume Superior Sound, 100ft Wireless Range, Play Two Together Music in Awesome Dual Stereo IPX5 Splashpro

 

Thanks for that info, Charlie. I looked at that and may purchase.

 

After much thought I also decided to go the blue tooth route. Went to Wally World and purchased a xb32 Sony extra bass speaker for 128.00 dollars. Sounds great. I have a 64 F85 with a rotating ashtray In the center of the dash, perfect spot for my phone.

 

I agree, the ashtray is a great place for the phone.

 

Could not agree more with the suggestions of just buying a bluetooth speaker and using your phone for playlists. Not worth the effort to switch out / convert the old radio (especially if it is still functional) when most of us prefer the appearance of originality. At least I had the foresight 20 years ago to order an old cassette stereo with remote cd player controls, because I knew I didn't want to cut the dash.

 

That is the best Idea i have ever heard. How is it working out?