Hello. I'm looking at a 1960 dynamic 88 tomorrow. Just wondering if there is anything specific to look for or at on these models. It's my first classic car so very new to this. Any tips would be appreciated. Owner states the odometer stuck at 70k miles. Is this a big deal?

 

Just be aware that parts specific to this model may be very hard to find.
Is the car road worthy? Also as you probably know a 4dr sedan is worth a lot less than a hardtop.

 

The mileage on these cars is not significant unless they are rare and documented. That should be the least of your worries and most states list them as mileage exempt for registration.

 

Check the engine color, carburetor (2 barrel or 4 barrel). There is a casting number on the bell housing behind the distributor (4 = 371, 4 1/8 = 394). 1960's were not a sought after body style. 1960 body parts are going to be pretty scarce !
Don't let that "Classic" sales crap fool you into buying something that is not desirable.

 

Parts hard to find, transmission that few know how to work on. Check very thoroughly for rust on the frame, brake lines, bottom of doors and around the trim surrounding the glass. Ask the seller not to start the car before you arrive, start it cold, watch for smoke and listen for noises.

 

x2 on starting the car cold. Double and triple check the transmission fluid. Make sure the car warms up and then go on a test drive. Make sure the transmission shifts properly.

 

Car runs and drives. Only thing stated as wrong with it is the odometer and will need tires soon.

 

Sellers typically play "dumb" about things wrong when you find stuff. Ask how long he's had it and where he got it from.
How much is he asking for the car ?
What state is it located in ?
1960 was a one year body style, so only 1960 body parts fit.
"it will need tires soon" is sales talk for you might get it home without a flat tire or blow out......if you don't live far away.

I would NOT buy the car when you look at it. Take a couple days to think about it.

 

okay. He is asking 6k for it. It is in wisconsin. It's only 30 minutes from where I live. Thanks for the suggestions. I plan to ask him all of that.

 

If he's asking $6000 you could always offer him $3000 and hopefully meet in the middle.

 

He is dreamin'. Sounds like he is trying make money on the "Classic car craze". If the speedometer broke at 70,000 miles, the steering and front suspension probably needs rebuilding. If you drive it, is the steering "loose" ?
Another consideration is....does it have a current title ?

I would be hard pressed to pay more than $1,500 if it runs.

 

Can we see a photo of this car?

 

Don’t let all the naysayers get you down. The old car hobby isn’t strictly about making every old Oldsmobile a 1000-point show car or only buying models for which replacement parts grow on trees. The old car hobby is about having fun.

If the car is in decent shape and runs and drives and you can reach agreement on a price, buy it. You can start having fun with it from the first day you own it. Replace parts as needed and as you can find them. Yes, parts can be hard to find for this car. Parts can be hard to find for lots of cars. That doesn't stop people from owning those cars. Finding parts is part of the hobby and part of the fun. Attend swap meets, check ebay, etc. While you’re doing this, you can still be having fun with the car.

It’s pretty much a certainty that yours will be the only one if its kind at any local car show you attend. If you do see another one like it, you and the owner will have lots to talk about.

Even at an all-Olds show like the OCA Nationals or Homecoming, your car is likely to be the only one of its kind there. And isn’t that a little more fun than being one of 5 gabillion Cutlasses and 442s at that show?

 

Jaunty is giving you some good advice. Just proceed with caution. Ask lots of questions and crawl all over this car. Good luck.

 

I am not on the site too much, I also agree with Jaunty on this one. If you wish to go with something other then the usual, then fine. As many have suggested check the car over very well, bring a knowledgeable car friend to help inspect and be devil's advocate with the whole endeavor. As suggested, do not buy right away, do research and counter offer after a few days if your heart is truly there, and the car is at least drivable, and does not look like it was just driven from the swamp. 19 years ago we brought home a totally sun baked 1972 Vista Cruiser, I faced a lot of jabbing, why did I bring home a desert sunburned car. Well, I have always appreciated the under dogs, and it was neat, after chasing down stuff to make the car right, and usually being the only one at an Oldsmobile show, let alone a general cruise. And then we got a 1966 Ninety-Eight Luxury Sedan. The Vista Cruiser was easy in comparison to find stuff. But we have done it again, and we have yet to see another one around where we live. It takes work and dedication for sure on a larger 1960 Oldsmobile, I will never doubt that, but by all means use all the resources, including here for help. Perhaps when you see the car, take tons of pictures and post them here. People give very honest opinions as already seen. Best regards, Howie.

 

 

Check the attachment of the steering box to frame. This was a recall campaign point on 1960 big cars. The factory made a repair bracket available to strengthen the frame at the bolt attachment location. The frame was found to be weak and would/will actually collapse on further tightening of the steering box bolts. BTW I have never seen the kit installed on a car. Bob Suters fabulous 1960 88 2dr HT does not have the kit, perhaps the best example of a 1960 out there. A buddy had a '60 and the box was actually flopping around when he bought the car.

Have a helper turn the wheel all the way to the left and bounce the steering wheel off of the stop, while you are observing the steering box from the driver's side looking over the driver's side fender. If it is loose it will be evident with this test.

People repair this now with tubing or pipe of correct length welded to large fender washers, then welded to the outside frame surface.

1960 Oldsmobile cars are beautiful space age cars. No other before or since just like them. I almost bought a 1960 98 convertible in Oklahoma City when they were somewhat affordable, hmmph not today. Good luck ~

 

these are the pictures I took along with one from the Facebook post. I have a friend who would be helping me work on this if I get it coming with me for a second look tonight.

 

It might have a later 394 and transmission which if so, would be a slim-jim trans - Would be great if it still had the 1960 style jetaway hydra-matic - At a glance looks like 1963-64 front cover on the engine - Looks very tidy however - At least try to know this going in before you buy the car.

EDIT - And those are a pair of expensive accessory mirrors on fenders - Very nice but not 1960.

SECOND EDIT - It might be the correct engine dolled up with some later stuff fooling me - Maybe take a look at the brakes out at the wheels to verify any changes there since it has had a power booster and master cylinder update. 1959-60 original power boosters have become very difficult to find in usable condition - There is some rebuild supply problem on those the last I knew.

 

Looks like 1963-64 Starfire chrome valve covers. "Ultra High Compression" and "Sky Rocket" might have been used on the 345 HP 394 engine. This car has had some TLC.
Did this car happen to be owned by John Hoppe ?

 

Seller said its got a carb from a newer model and the valve covers i think he said were from a different ebgine bc the originals would be gold not orange red. But the rest of the engine is original to the car. He replaced the power booster abd master cylinder bc the originals were leaking.

 

I'm not sure of the original owner but he had a body shop in wausau wisconsin in the 80s im told.

 

If it were mine I would tape it off and paint the top silver or very light blue metallic like huge dodgem car metal flake. It's DIEING for that with that nice blue paint and blue/white interior, if it's not gonna get restored. Yeah it's a bit passé these days thanks to the rockabilly crowd but the styling and breaks in this design cry out for that. Add twice pipes out to the bumper and your good.

 

If it runs and drives, it's well worth the $6-6500 asking price.

 

For that price I think I would be all over that car. One thing I did not see anybody mention is that it appears to have been upgraded to a dual master cylinder. And as coldwar mentioned, those are some expensive aftermarket mirrors on the fenders.

 

Nice looking car. I like the work under garage pit. Good guys here on the site pointing out things to be aware of. I agree. Jaunty has the point of part of this hobby is the hunt and making your time as the caretaker fun. Which ever you decide enjoy

Keith

 

Thanks for all the input everyone. I ended up buying it last night. It does have the dual master cylinder. The guy said he couldn't find a single so he got the smallest dual he could find. But it makes the brakes a bit too touchy. He mentioned some kind of diffuser or something of the sort that can be added to the line to the rear brakes so it doesn't lock up as easy. Have any of you heard of this?

 

Congratulation on the purchase! Nice looking car and looks to be in excellent shape. Good luck and enjoy.

 

If you plan on doing the repairs and maintenance yourself on this car try and find an original Service Manual.

 

Good!

 

Rockauto shows availability of master cyliinders for your car.

 

I would keep the dual braking system already added to the car. In this day and age, with so many more vehicles on the road and way different attitudes towards driving behavior, why not have every bit of tasteful updates on your car. The previous owner may have been referring to a combination valve often found in disc/drum brake cars in the past. You can get adjustable valves to tailor to your needs. I will add in my experience the drum brake systems of these cars somewhat had that full on/off feel if you hit the brakes too fast. I get the feeling on our own 1966 Ninety-Eight, the pedal is quite firm, and not much travel at all, the brakes certainly needed getting used to after driving 2/4-wheel disc brakes for years including our 1972 Vista Cruiser with factory power disc brakes, which behave like a modern car in feel, etc. Something that could be checked is to be sure nothing has contaminated the brake shoes, a parking brake cable is slightly stuck or a wheel cylinder could have one of the pistons seized. These are a few point to ponder, but try and get used to the actions of these old drum systems. Congratulations on getting the car, looks like a really sweet ride and is simply fascinating because one does not see these every day. Have a wonderful time enjoying the car! Howie.

 

Do you have a pic of the carburetor? I know an aftermarket or non-OE carburetor on a 61-64 98 or 88 with the Slim Jim Rotohydramatic could be a problem. I don't know if the earlier Hydramatics had similar problems.

 

You can probably install an adjustable proportioning valve and get the brakes dialed in. I think that is what I would try.

 

Welcome aboard! Love it!

 

luckily a 1960 service manual came with the car.