Hello All . I am new to the site as well and not sure where or how to start a new thread , I need help bought a 72 cutlass with a F block 455 and E heads had it for to days gave it a tune up Changed oil ,new valve cover gaskets thermasat and gasket and cleaned up the carb . Car was running great fired right up was just slow down the road after about two blocks and i got a serious knock out of no where . SORRY FOR JACKING YOUR THREAD PLEASE DIRECT ME AS TO WHERE TO POST THIS . need to find colorado members and machine shops ect.

 

Welcome to the site, I moved your post to your very own thread. Can you better describe the knock, is it coming from the top of the engine or down in the block? Is it there all the time? What is your oil pressure?

 

thanks man the knock sounds like it on the passenger side as to where it is comming from not sure i shut her down quick . im not really knowleagable on engines and have never heard any kind of knock in person . the oil pressure line was damaged and gauge not working need to run to get parts .

 

Definitely need to know what your oil pressure is. Look over everything you touched and make sure nothing is loose or hitting something. What oil brand/viscosity and filter did you use? Is the level correct?

 

Ok will get the oil pressure gauge working as far as oil rottella 15-40 we flushed it with some lucus and added some of there oil treatment as well thanks for all the help

 

So someone has been playing with the car before you. Check your VIN, I bet it's not a 455 car to start with. It would need to have a U in the engine code (eg: 3G87[engine code]2M123456). The F block will be casting 396021 F, and the heads for 72 should be GA. The E heads are from a 1970 455 and should have casting 403686 above the plugs.

Rotella is a high detergent oil, kind of wonder if that might be part of your problem, but not too likely....

BTW, where in Colorado?

 

Don't rule out the easier but less obvious fixes.
Check for a cracked flexplate or a missing or loose bolt.
Cracked exhaust manifold or loose or missing bolt, and on the down tube flanges.
Engine mount rubber deteriorated and banging to name a few.
We had a fellow here a few years back that had the engine to transmission, coming
apart an the trans housing was busted to bupkis. Good luck with her.

 

Hey guys thanks for all the info ,I'm located near littleton co .and yes block codes match it a 455 with E heads haven't dug into her anymore yet needed a day to gather my thoughts ,

 

Welcome to CO. I run a shop in Morrison and would be happy to listen to it if you like. Could be ugly, but then again it could be a nasty piece of carbon that broke loose with the plug change.

 

cqr whats the name of your shop i may be using some help , anyone know of any good machine shops in south denver area if it comes to that any idea on how i would go about getting a parts list, makes models the best parts and where to buy from. i want to get this car up and running asap as i just got it . not scared of doing work my self but i know there are thing i cant handle . THANKS for all the info guys being new to the form and Olds it cool to see such helpfull guys and gals on here its great.

 

If your near Golden Colorado he has been doing carb rebuilds many years if in the future you need that. Search Barker Gang Garage on internet. Good luck with the knock.

 

Update pulled the valve covers found a bent pushrod on #4 cylinder. What can I do now can I just replace the rod for now to get me around ? What could be the causes I know of some already but just looking for more .oh yea and Gary m were u from colorado.

 

Found Barker on internet. Mentioned him because he fixes quadrajet warping, does good work and is in Colorado. Guys like him may know some good machine shops in area. Word of mouth is how I found the shop that built my motor.

 

I use Gunn automotive for my machine work. Phil is a great old timer that isn't afraid of the old stuff. Kenny usually answers the phone and is a good guy. They are on Federal just north of Alameda. (303)934-3134 I think.

You can try a new push rod. but if it does it again you may have a lifter that won't bleed off properly. Did you check for a broken valve spring? that is another reason for a bent pushrod. Give me a call tomorrow at the shop if you have anymore questions. Doesn't look like the next couple of days are gonna be Olds driving weather anyhow.

Clint

 

Valve springs looked good ordered up new pushrods from compcams will give it a shot then go from there thanks for the references