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Im loosing oil at an alarming rate. It seems to be coming mostly from what im guessing is an oil pressure switch. I was able to turn it a little by hand, but couldnt tell how to get it off. Does the electrical connecter just pull off? Also; i didnt see any way to grab it with a wrench as it seemed rounded with no flats. Can i just remove the electrical connecter amd tighten it? Is this a common issue. So far every bolt ive turned on the top od the engine has been pretty loose. Is the oil switch on top of the timing cover? Any advice? Will try to get a pic in a little while. Thanks.
The oil pressure switch has flats and requires a special socket. You MIGHT be able to tighten it with an adjustable wrench if you can get one in there. Yes, the connector just pulls off. You should probably remove the switch and use a little teflon pipe dope on the threads before screwing it back in.
A pair of channel lock pliers may work in the absence of a socket
Good luck with that on a 307 without significant disassembly of other items. The correct socket is under $8 at Amazon. What's your time worth (especially when the channelock slips and you crack the plastic on the sender)?
Would you recommend a dentist to use a channel locks pliers to pull a tooth in you mouth? use the right tool for the job. Your not stuck out in the middle of nowhere and that's all you have. You can create more problems than you can cure. jmho
The OP said he could turn it by hand? Hmmm....I wonder if the actual sending unit is turning in the threads or the plastic housing has separated from the base and it’s the plastic housing on top of the metal base which is turning (as has already been suggested)? In any case, use the proper socket and remove it.
Last edited by Vintage Chief; February 17th, 2021 at 04:29 PM.
Thanks for all the tips everyone. Really crummy weather atm, but ill pop the connecter off amd take thw switch out, inspect amd replace tomorrow. Does anyone know of a specific torque value to tighten the valve covers down to? How bout the oil pan? I guess just going through amd snugging up everything would be a start. Thanks again.
Good luck with that on a 307 without significant disassembly of other items.
Isnt that the truth. I think that was the first part they put under the hood on my Wifes Riviera. Had to take half the parts off the top of the engine to change it
Does anyone know of a specific torque value to tighten the valve covers down to? How bout the oil pan? I guess just going through and snugging up everything would be a start. Thanks again.
Does anyone know of a specific torque value to tighten the valve covers down to? How bout the oil pan? I guess just going through and snugging up everything would be a start. Thanks again.
If the valve covers have never been off there is a good chance they dont have gaskets on them. From the factory they came with only RTV.
Does anyone know of a specific torque value to tighten the valve covers down to? How bout the oil pan? I guess just going through amd snugging up everything would be a start. Thanks again.
Plastic on sensor was loosened from metal. The cavity or rubber cup that conceals the electrical connecter was saturated. Special socket would not fit. Too close to valve cover. Not enough clearance. Had to use mini channel locks carefully, but got it taken care of. No more oil leaking from that particular spot. Thanks for the help guys. Im surprised the switch leaking didnt cause a code to be thrown. I guess if it was faulty electrically then maybe it would have. Hey what brand is best for replacement window motors and switches? Also window track hardware? Thanks again.
Im surprised the switch leaking didnt cause a code to be thrown.
Why would it? Nothing in the ECU monitors oil pressure, and frankly, this leak wasn't severe enough to cause oil pressure to drop anyway. You might want to read up on what the ECU in your car can and cannot do.
The OBD I system in your car is pretty stupid, frankly. Keep in mind that the CCC system was designed using mid-1970s computer technology. It has very few actual control functions on the car. More importantly, any computer only knows what it has sensors to detect, and as I mentioned, there is no oil pressure sensor that is part of the CCC system. Something else to keep in mind is that unless the ECU has an actual method of monitoring a function, it can't set a code. One classic example is the EGR valve. On your OBD I system, the computer only monitors that it sent the command to the EGR valve control solenoid to open. There is nothing that actually tells the computer that the EGR valve itself did, in fact, open, or by how much. Newer cars with OBD II systems do, in fact, have a position sensor in the EGR valve itself and are capable of monitoring valve postion, but the OBD I systems do not. The V6 cars with OBD I did have a vacuum sensor that would at least sense if the solenoid valve commanded the EGR open or not by measuring vacuum in the hose to the EGR valve, but the 307s didn't even have this sensor. Even then, the sensor only tells you that the appropriate vacuum signal was applied to the EGR valve. It can't tell you if the valve moved or not.
Why would it? Nothing in the ECU monitors oil pressure, and frankly, this leak wasn't severe enough to cause oil pressure to drop anyway. You might want to read up on what the ECU in your car can and cannot do.
The OBD I system in your car is pretty stupid, frankly. Keep in mind that the CCC system was designed using mid-1970s computer technology. It has very few actual control functions on the car. More importantly, any computer only knows what it has sensors to detect, and as I mentioned, there is no oil pressure sensor that is part of the CCC system. Something else to keep in mind is that unless the ECU has an actual method of monitoring a function, it can't set a code. One classic example is the EGR valve. On your OBD I system, the computer only monitors that it sent the command to the EGR valve control solenoid to open. There is nothing that actually tells the computer that the EGR valve itself did, in fact, open, or by how much. Newer cars with OBD II systems do, in fact, have a position sensor in the EGR valve itself and are capable of monitoring valve postion, but the OBD I systems do not. The V6 cars with OBD I did have a vacuum sensor that would at least sense if the solenoid valve commanded the EGR open or not by measuring vacuum in the hose to the EGR valve, but the 307s didn't even have this sensor. Even then, the sensor only tells you that the appropriate vacuum signal was applied to the EGR valve. It can't tell you if the valve moved or not.
i just thought it might send a fault code for electrical problem with sensor since it was saturated in oil. I guess the connection was still good, or there is no monitoring of that electrical connection.
As a further FYI, the OIL idiot light DOES monitor that electrical connection. When you start the car, the OIL light illuminates with the key in the START position. That is intended as a lamp test function, but it also tests the entire circuit, since there is no oil pressure when the engine is not running, so the sender and the electrical connection is tested every time you start the car.
there is an electrical connection for a reason. Oil level or pressure. It is a switch. You would think if an electrical problem occured with the switch then it might throw a light in the cab either for oil light or maintenance light. Please excuse the vanity i must have for daring to speak.
there is an electrical connection for a reason. Oil level or pressure. It is a switch. You would think if an electrical problem occured with the switch then it might throw a light in the cab either for oil light or maintenance light. Please excuse the vanity i must have for daring to speak.
As I said above, that oil pressure switch turns the OIL idiot light off and on. There is no connection to the ECU, which is what controls the CHECK ENGINE light. And again, the oil pressure switch monitors pressure, not leak rate. So long as the pressure is above 4-7 psi, the switch opens and the light is off.
As I said above, that oil pressure switch turns the OIL idiot light off and on. There is no connection to the ECU, which is what controls the CHECK ENGINE light. And again, the oil pressure switch monitors pressure, not leak rate. So long as the pressure is above 4-7 psi, the switch opens and the light is off.
yes sir, i understand and never meant to insinuate that the light would come on due to a rate of a leak, only that the electrical connection was evidently not faulty.
If enough oil is lost would thw oil pressure not drop also?
Yes if enough oil is lost to drop the oil pressure to below 3#'s the light will come on. It is merely a pressure switch that turns the light on and off nothing more.
February 17th, 2021, 10:35 AM
