I"m a new member
July 16th, 2022, 06:31 PM
#7
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Join Date: Jul 2022
Location: Oregon
Posts: 8
July 16th, 2022, 06:55 PM
#8
'70 4-Speed W Machine
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: North GA
Posts: 1,170
July 19th, 2022, 04:49 PM
#12
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2022
Location: Oregon
Posts: 8
Ok here's the list for the power train. 1968 Olds F block 455. It's .030 over, running TRW 10:25.1 pistons It's balanced and has a Nodular crankshaft. I think most Olds engines in this production year used Nodular cranks. I'm running a Comp Cams flat tappet hydraulic. It's a big one too, the grind number is OL320H-10. It's ground on 110 degree lobe centers, and has .575 lift on both the intake and exhaust. It's duration at .050" lifter rise is 268 degrees. Event numbers look like this: Intake opens at 50 Deg btdc and closes at 90 degree. The exhaust is identical at 90-50. Its got about 85-90 degree of overlap and idles about 1250 rpm, yeah it's rough too. I have Edeldrock heads on it which bumps the C.R. up to about 11:1. I'm using Harland Sharp roller rockets on screw in studs. Comp Cams pushrods (the spendy one with the gold writing on them? LOL) I'm also lighting up the spark plugs with an MDS Billet distributor, It triggers an MDS 6AL box. This runs a MSD Blaster HVC II coil. I also use an MDS 5" Pro Cap on top of the distributor. I have zero ignition problems with this set up on the car. I have some 1 7/8" Hooker Super Competition coated Headers on the car, they run into some 18" Dynomax 3" diameter race bullets. Yeah it's loud.
For the fuel system I run a Holley 8082 two circuit 4500 Dominator on an Edelbrock Victor 455 intake. This carb is rated at 1050 CFM, with progressive mechanical linkage on it. The car runs really good with this set up on it. Dominators ain't like a run of the mill 4150. They're a whole different cat all togather, but not too bad once you understand them. I feed the carb with a MagnaFuel Pro Star 500 fuel pump (one noisy Jose' too! LOL) It pulls fuel out of a Jazz 16 Gallon fuel cell. I built a double 8AN to 10AN adapter from the fuel cell to the pump inlet. It's billet aluminum. I have the pressure regulator on the pump set at 35 PSI and the rest of it gets by passed back into the fuel cell by the external by pass hose. I use a stock Holley fuel pressure regulator set at 5.5 PSI to feed the carb. I have an MDS fuel pressure gauge mounted on the hood scoop and it never falls below 5 psi no matter where the gas pedal is at. that's due to the volume the fuel pump produces . I don't believe in running any more seat pressure in the carb that what it needs.
The motor is coupled to the trans with a Hughs 2500 stall converter that has loosened up a bit since it was new. This spins the input shaft on a 68 Turbo 400 out of a Pontiac. The drive shaft is a one piece unit with Spicer 1350 u joints in it. This goes into a 69 Chevelle 12 bolt with 3:42 gears and an Aburn posi unit. Right now I run the car on a 27" tire and at 55 mph the motor is turning 2650 RPM. This is a very nice speed for the motor combination I"m running. The camshaft and the induction system are starting to shake hands with each other at this rpm. The car has a fiberglass hood scoop, front and rear bumpers. I got the fiberglass parts from Rocket Racing. This glass stuff fits perfectly I didn't have to hardly do any adjustments to it when I fitted the hood onto the car. This is top notch glass parts, very well made.
I wanted to say some things about the rear suspension. I decided to see how good I could get the rear suspension to work. I bought some Edelbrock anti hop bars for it and some adjustable upper control arms. I also installed a tubular (square) lower control on on it. When I went to install the anti hop bars on the third memeber they would not fit around the pinion webbing and some of the webbing on the gear case. Also the bottom bolt that supposed to hold the bottom end down was too short. I had to replace that with a longer bolt, really no big deal but should have been right to begin with. When I installed the rear end back in the car I hooked up the lower cotrol arms first to keep it from rolling around. No problem this fit fine. The problem was with the anti hop bars. They didn't seem to be cut at the right angle and were too far forward. To make things fit I had to screw the adjustable upper control arm all the way into they'd do into the upper cross memeber bracket. When I did this it pulled up pinion about about 10 Degrees positive! None of this **** was even close. So I made a little jack like deal out of a old jack stand that screwed up and down to put underneath the pinon to get that set where it was supposed to be. I took the anti hop bars back off of the bottom so then could rotate on top. Then I backed out the upper control arms till they were right in the middle of their adjustments. This pulled the bottom anchor point of the anti hop bars way out away from the pinion web where they were supposed to be anchored. I took off the anti hop bars and cut them in two. I reinsalled them and moved the bottom down where it was supposed to hook onto. Now i HAD THE UPPER anti hop bar position correct I lowered the pinion angle down to about 5 Degrees negative. There was now a huge gap between the uppper and lower part of the bars. I took a piece of carbroad and held it behind the gap and traced a pie shaped wedge of that gap onto the cardboard. I then cut out a piece of 3/4" steel plate and welded it into the gap. I ground them down and repainted the anti hop bars. Now I had a pair that fit correctly. I know I've heard all this before, "Welll the reason they didn't fit was because you used a Chevrolet rear differential under and Oldsmobile. there is physically no differerence between and Old and Chev 12 bolt. Before I did the mods to the rear suspension the Chev rear end bolted into the Olds Chassis perfectly. I checked the part numbers on the box and on the anti Hop bars.I cross referenced them with two sources and all that stuff was correct. I feel sorry for guys that bought those things only to find out they wouldn't work. I am able to make them work but not everybody can do that. It pissed me off that I had to go thru that just to make them work when they shoulda be right out of the box. I now see that Edelbrock doesn't stock those anymore? I'll bet they got a bunch of them back. I'm just putting this out there as a warning if any of you come by a pair of these things. Maybe your's will fit, mine didn't.
I guess that's about it? That's my girl. She's more fun than I can stand most of the time.
Dave~
For the fuel system I run a Holley 8082 two circuit 4500 Dominator on an Edelbrock Victor 455 intake. This carb is rated at 1050 CFM, with progressive mechanical linkage on it. The car runs really good with this set up on it. Dominators ain't like a run of the mill 4150. They're a whole different cat all togather, but not too bad once you understand them. I feed the carb with a MagnaFuel Pro Star 500 fuel pump (one noisy Jose' too! LOL) It pulls fuel out of a Jazz 16 Gallon fuel cell. I built a double 8AN to 10AN adapter from the fuel cell to the pump inlet. It's billet aluminum. I have the pressure regulator on the pump set at 35 PSI and the rest of it gets by passed back into the fuel cell by the external by pass hose. I use a stock Holley fuel pressure regulator set at 5.5 PSI to feed the carb. I have an MDS fuel pressure gauge mounted on the hood scoop and it never falls below 5 psi no matter where the gas pedal is at. that's due to the volume the fuel pump produces . I don't believe in running any more seat pressure in the carb that what it needs.
The motor is coupled to the trans with a Hughs 2500 stall converter that has loosened up a bit since it was new. This spins the input shaft on a 68 Turbo 400 out of a Pontiac. The drive shaft is a one piece unit with Spicer 1350 u joints in it. This goes into a 69 Chevelle 12 bolt with 3:42 gears and an Aburn posi unit. Right now I run the car on a 27" tire and at 55 mph the motor is turning 2650 RPM. This is a very nice speed for the motor combination I"m running. The camshaft and the induction system are starting to shake hands with each other at this rpm. The car has a fiberglass hood scoop, front and rear bumpers. I got the fiberglass parts from Rocket Racing. This glass stuff fits perfectly I didn't have to hardly do any adjustments to it when I fitted the hood onto the car. This is top notch glass parts, very well made.
I wanted to say some things about the rear suspension. I decided to see how good I could get the rear suspension to work. I bought some Edelbrock anti hop bars for it and some adjustable upper control arms. I also installed a tubular (square) lower control on on it. When I went to install the anti hop bars on the third memeber they would not fit around the pinion webbing and some of the webbing on the gear case. Also the bottom bolt that supposed to hold the bottom end down was too short. I had to replace that with a longer bolt, really no big deal but should have been right to begin with. When I installed the rear end back in the car I hooked up the lower cotrol arms first to keep it from rolling around. No problem this fit fine. The problem was with the anti hop bars. They didn't seem to be cut at the right angle and were too far forward. To make things fit I had to screw the adjustable upper control arm all the way into they'd do into the upper cross memeber bracket. When I did this it pulled up pinion about about 10 Degrees positive! None of this **** was even close. So I made a little jack like deal out of a old jack stand that screwed up and down to put underneath the pinon to get that set where it was supposed to be. I took the anti hop bars back off of the bottom so then could rotate on top. Then I backed out the upper control arms till they were right in the middle of their adjustments. This pulled the bottom anchor point of the anti hop bars way out away from the pinion web where they were supposed to be anchored. I took off the anti hop bars and cut them in two. I reinsalled them and moved the bottom down where it was supposed to hook onto. Now i HAD THE UPPER anti hop bar position correct I lowered the pinion angle down to about 5 Degrees negative. There was now a huge gap between the uppper and lower part of the bars. I took a piece of carbroad and held it behind the gap and traced a pie shaped wedge of that gap onto the cardboard. I then cut out a piece of 3/4" steel plate and welded it into the gap. I ground them down and repainted the anti hop bars. Now I had a pair that fit correctly. I know I've heard all this before, "Welll the reason they didn't fit was because you used a Chevrolet rear differential under and Oldsmobile. there is physically no differerence between and Old and Chev 12 bolt. Before I did the mods to the rear suspension the Chev rear end bolted into the Olds Chassis perfectly. I checked the part numbers on the box and on the anti Hop bars.I cross referenced them with two sources and all that stuff was correct. I feel sorry for guys that bought those things only to find out they wouldn't work. I am able to make them work but not everybody can do that. It pissed me off that I had to go thru that just to make them work when they shoulda be right out of the box. I now see that Edelbrock doesn't stock those anymore? I'll bet they got a bunch of them back. I'm just putting this out there as a warning if any of you come by a pair of these things. Maybe your's will fit, mine didn't.
I guess that's about it? That's my girl. She's more fun than I can stand most of the time.
Dave~
Last edited by Prostreet Cutlass; July 19th, 2022 at 05:14 PM.
July 19th, 2022, 08:46 PM
#13
Stuck in the 80's
Join Date: Jul 2022
Location: Central Oregon
Posts: 50
[QUOTE=
I guess that's about it? That's my girl. She's more fun than I can stand most of the time.
Dave~[/QUOTE]
Good problem solving on the no hop bars. I think there has been a few different versions over the years with different ratios. I know my first set in the back in the day made a big difference over stock, I still have them somewhere...
The 80's pro street movement was highly influential in my preferences including present day. I took a break in the 90s when they no longer moved under their own power or were pitifully slow like Dobertons J2000 that was the darling of the magazine covers. Thankfully the movement towards fast street cars came back with a vengeance culminating with the drag and drive events of today.
.
Where in Oregon are you?
I guess that's about it? That's my girl. She's more fun than I can stand most of the time.
Dave~[/QUOTE]
Good problem solving on the no hop bars. I think there has been a few different versions over the years with different ratios. I know my first set in the back in the day made a big difference over stock, I still have them somewhere...
The 80's pro street movement was highly influential in my preferences including present day. I took a break in the 90s when they no longer moved under their own power or were pitifully slow like Dobertons J2000 that was the darling of the magazine covers. Thankfully the movement towards fast street cars came back with a vengeance culminating with the drag and drive events of today.
.
Where in Oregon are you?
July 20th, 2022, 09:03 AM
#14
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Colorado
Posts: 297
Ok here's the list for the power train. 1968 Olds F block 455. It's .030 over, running TRW 10:25.1 pistons It's balanced and has a Nodular crankshaft. I think most Olds engines in this production year used Nodular cranks. I'm running a Comp Cams flat tappet hydraulic. It's a big one too, the grind number is OL320H-10. It's ground on 110 degree lobe centers, and has .575 lift on both the intake and exhaust. It's duration at .050" lifter rise is 268 degrees. Event numbers look like this: Intake opens at 50 Deg btdc and closes at 90 degree. The exhaust is identical at 90-50. Its got about 85-90 degree of overlap and idles about 1250 rpm, yeah it's rough too. I have Edeldrock heads on it which bumps the C.R. up to about 11:1. I'm using Harland Sharp roller rockets on screw in studs. Comp Cams pushrods (the spendy one with the gold writing on them? LOL) I'm also lighting up the spark plugs with an MDS Billet distributor, It triggers an MDS 6AL box. This runs a MSD Blaster HVC II coil. I also use an MDS 5" Pro Cap on top of the distributor. I have zero ignition problems with this set up on the car. I have some 1 7/8" Hooker Super Competition coated Headers on the car, they run into some 18" Dynomax 3" diameter race bullets. Yeah it's loud.
For the fuel system I run a Holley 8082 two circuit 4500 Dominator on an Edelbrock Victor 455 intake. This carb is rated at 1050 CFM, with progressive mechanical linkage on it. The car runs really good with this set up on it. Dominators ain't like a run of the mill 4150. They're a whole different cat all togather, but not too bad once you understand them. I feed the carb with a MagnaFuel Pro Star 500 fuel pump (one noisy Jose' too! LOL) It pulls fuel out of a Jazz 16 Gallon fuel cell. I built a double 8AN to 10AN adapter from the fuel cell to the pump inlet. It's billet aluminum. I have the pressure regulator on the pump set at 35 PSI and the rest of it gets by passed back into the fuel cell by the external by pass hose. I use a stock Holley fuel pressure regulator set at 5.5 PSI to feed the carb. I have an MDS fuel pressure gauge mounted on the hood scoop and it never falls below 5 psi no matter where the gas pedal is at. that's due to the volume the fuel pump produces . I don't believe in running any more seat pressure in the carb that what it needs.
The motor is coupled to the trans with a Hughs 2500 stall converter that has loosened up a bit since it was new. This spins the input shaft on a 68 Turbo 400 out of a Pontiac. The drive shaft is a one piece unit with Spicer 1350 u joints in it. This goes into a 69 Chevelle 12 bolt with 3:42 gears and an Aburn posi unit. Right now I run the car on a 27" tire and at 55 mph the motor is turning 2650 RPM. This is a very nice speed for the motor combination I"m running. The camshaft and the induction system are starting to shake hands with each other at this rpm. The car has a fiberglass hood scoop, front and rear bumpers. I got the fiberglass parts from Rocket Racing. This glass stuff fits perfectly I didn't have to hardly do any adjustments to it when I fitted the hood onto the car. This is top notch glass parts, very well made.
I wanted to say some things about the rear suspension. I decided to see how good I could get the rear suspension to work. I bought some Edelbrock anti hop bars for it and some adjustable upper control arms. I also installed a tubular (square) lower control on on it. When I went to install the anti hop bars on the third memeber they would not fit around the pinion webbing and some of the webbing on the gear case. Also the bottom bolt that supposed to hold the bottom end down was too short. I had to replace that with a longer bolt, really no big deal but should have been right to begin with. When I installed the rear end back in the car I hooked up the lower cotrol arms first to keep it from rolling around. No problem this fit fine. The problem was with the anti hop bars. They didn't seem to be cut at the right angle and were too far forward. To make things fit I had to screw the adjustable upper control arm all the way into they'd do into the upper cross memeber bracket. When I did this it pulled up pinion about about 10 Degrees positive! None of this **** was even close. So I made a little jack like deal out of a old jack stand that screwed up and down to put underneath the pinon to get that set where it was supposed to be. I took the anti hop bars back off of the bottom so then could rotate on top. Then I backed out the upper control arms till they were right in the middle of their adjustments. This pulled the bottom anchor point of the anti hop bars way out away from the pinion web where they were supposed to be anchored. I took off the anti hop bars and cut them in two. I reinsalled them and moved the bottom down where it was supposed to hook onto. Now i HAD THE UPPER anti hop bar position correct I lowered the pinion angle down to about 5 Degrees negative. There was now a huge gap between the uppper and lower part of the bars. I took a piece of carbroad and held it behind the gap and traced a pie shaped wedge of that gap onto the cardboard. I then cut out a piece of 3/4" steel plate and welded it into the gap. I ground them down and repainted the anti hop bars. Now I had a pair that fit correctly. I know I've heard all this before, "Welll the reason they didn't fit was because you used a Chevrolet rear differential under and Oldsmobile. there is physically no differerence between and Old and Chev 12 bolt. Before I did the mods to the rear suspension the Chev rear end bolted into the Olds Chassis perfectly. I checked the part numbers on the box and on the anti Hop bars.I cross referenced them with two sources and all that stuff was correct. I feel sorry for guys that bought those things only to find out they wouldn't work. I am able to make them work but not everybody can do that. It pissed me off that I had to go thru that just to make them work when they shoulda be right out of the box. I now see that Edelbrock doesn't stock those anymore? I'll bet they got a bunch of them back. I'm just putting this out there as a warning if any of you come by a pair of these things. Maybe your's will fit, mine didn't.
I guess that's about it? That's my girl. She's more fun than I can stand most of the time.
Dave~
For the fuel system I run a Holley 8082 two circuit 4500 Dominator on an Edelbrock Victor 455 intake. This carb is rated at 1050 CFM, with progressive mechanical linkage on it. The car runs really good with this set up on it. Dominators ain't like a run of the mill 4150. They're a whole different cat all togather, but not too bad once you understand them. I feed the carb with a MagnaFuel Pro Star 500 fuel pump (one noisy Jose' too! LOL) It pulls fuel out of a Jazz 16 Gallon fuel cell. I built a double 8AN to 10AN adapter from the fuel cell to the pump inlet. It's billet aluminum. I have the pressure regulator on the pump set at 35 PSI and the rest of it gets by passed back into the fuel cell by the external by pass hose. I use a stock Holley fuel pressure regulator set at 5.5 PSI to feed the carb. I have an MDS fuel pressure gauge mounted on the hood scoop and it never falls below 5 psi no matter where the gas pedal is at. that's due to the volume the fuel pump produces . I don't believe in running any more seat pressure in the carb that what it needs.
The motor is coupled to the trans with a Hughs 2500 stall converter that has loosened up a bit since it was new. This spins the input shaft on a 68 Turbo 400 out of a Pontiac. The drive shaft is a one piece unit with Spicer 1350 u joints in it. This goes into a 69 Chevelle 12 bolt with 3:42 gears and an Aburn posi unit. Right now I run the car on a 27" tire and at 55 mph the motor is turning 2650 RPM. This is a very nice speed for the motor combination I"m running. The camshaft and the induction system are starting to shake hands with each other at this rpm. The car has a fiberglass hood scoop, front and rear bumpers. I got the fiberglass parts from Rocket Racing. This glass stuff fits perfectly I didn't have to hardly do any adjustments to it when I fitted the hood onto the car. This is top notch glass parts, very well made.
I wanted to say some things about the rear suspension. I decided to see how good I could get the rear suspension to work. I bought some Edelbrock anti hop bars for it and some adjustable upper control arms. I also installed a tubular (square) lower control on on it. When I went to install the anti hop bars on the third memeber they would not fit around the pinion webbing and some of the webbing on the gear case. Also the bottom bolt that supposed to hold the bottom end down was too short. I had to replace that with a longer bolt, really no big deal but should have been right to begin with. When I installed the rear end back in the car I hooked up the lower cotrol arms first to keep it from rolling around. No problem this fit fine. The problem was with the anti hop bars. They didn't seem to be cut at the right angle and were too far forward. To make things fit I had to screw the adjustable upper control arm all the way into they'd do into the upper cross memeber bracket. When I did this it pulled up pinion about about 10 Degrees positive! None of this **** was even close. So I made a little jack like deal out of a old jack stand that screwed up and down to put underneath the pinon to get that set where it was supposed to be. I took the anti hop bars back off of the bottom so then could rotate on top. Then I backed out the upper control arms till they were right in the middle of their adjustments. This pulled the bottom anchor point of the anti hop bars way out away from the pinion web where they were supposed to be anchored. I took off the anti hop bars and cut them in two. I reinsalled them and moved the bottom down where it was supposed to hook onto. Now i HAD THE UPPER anti hop bar position correct I lowered the pinion angle down to about 5 Degrees negative. There was now a huge gap between the uppper and lower part of the bars. I took a piece of carbroad and held it behind the gap and traced a pie shaped wedge of that gap onto the cardboard. I then cut out a piece of 3/4" steel plate and welded it into the gap. I ground them down and repainted the anti hop bars. Now I had a pair that fit correctly. I know I've heard all this before, "Welll the reason they didn't fit was because you used a Chevrolet rear differential under and Oldsmobile. there is physically no differerence between and Old and Chev 12 bolt. Before I did the mods to the rear suspension the Chev rear end bolted into the Olds Chassis perfectly. I checked the part numbers on the box and on the anti Hop bars.I cross referenced them with two sources and all that stuff was correct. I feel sorry for guys that bought those things only to find out they wouldn't work. I am able to make them work but not everybody can do that. It pissed me off that I had to go thru that just to make them work when they shoulda be right out of the box. I now see that Edelbrock doesn't stock those anymore? I'll bet they got a bunch of them back. I'm just putting this out there as a warning if any of you come by a pair of these things. Maybe your's will fit, mine didn't.
I guess that's about it? That's my girl. She's more fun than I can stand most of the time.
Dave~
Send us more pics....
Dave
July 20th, 2022, 10:55 AM
#15
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2022
Location: Oregon
Posts: 8
Funny Bars
Good problem solving on the no hop bars. I think there has been a few different versions over the years with different ratios. I know my first set in the back in the day made a big difference over stock, I still have them somewhere...
The 80's pro street movement was highly influential in my preferences including present day. I took a break in the 90s when they no longer moved under their own power or were pitifully slow like Dobertons J2000 that was the darling of the magazine covers. Thankfully the movement towards fast street cars came back with a vengeance culminating with the drag and drive events of today.
.
Where in Oregon are you?
The 80's pro street movement was highly influential in my preferences including present day. I took a break in the 90s when they no longer moved under their own power or were pitifully slow like Dobertons J2000 that was the darling of the magazine covers. Thankfully the movement towards fast street cars came back with a vengeance culminating with the drag and drive events of today.
.
Where in Oregon are you?
July 20th, 2022, 11:18 AM
#16
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2022
Location: Oregon
Posts: 8
Hi Steve. Thanks for the nice words. I didn't know what was going on when I installed them so instead of going without them I decided I could fix them, so that's what I did. Edelbrock should stick to making intake manifolds and cylinder heads and leave the chassis stuff and the carbs to someone else. They good at the first two. lol.
I remember the Dobertson's cars. Seems like every time he turned around was building a new one. I was NEVER a fan of anything he built always looked overly complicated and way way too busy. I remember one car I think it was the J2000 that the chassis was fabbed out of stainless steel? Bet that wasn't cheap? Then he talked his wife into helping him polish it all. I don't even remember the motor part of it, all I recollect is like the rest of the car was overly complicated. I got sick and tired of his stuff, as you say he was the darling of the all the car magazines. Pretty face but not behind it.
I also remember when Hot Rod Magazine used to be a good mag. Lots of coverage on drag racing and Bonneville, good coverage on street machines, and customs. That was the days before Hamburger got his hands on the editorship of HRM. Now we see if full of misinformation and he and his buddy driving around in Mid 80's Buick Convertables or XKE's with a stock 350 smc with a 6-71 on it. Big Oil burning turd. Then we watch as he bravely drives his Buick into a pile of large cardboard boxes. This b.s. got the center of the mag. I cancelled my subscription to it asap. Then he acts like the authority on gassers. I guess he wanted to get in on the newest craze the "gasser movement." He wasn't even born when those things were going down the tracks. He wasn't witness to them like I was growing up in the middle of the 50's and 60's. He wasn't the only one getting it wrong about those cars. I've seen all sorts of gunboats that someone decided to put a straight axle under the front end of it, rigs like station wagons and hurses, crap like that. The majority of the gas classes like A/G B/G C/G and D/G were either Anglias' stuff like that in the upper classes and 56 Chevrolets. I noticed that there were more 56 Chev's in D/G than either 55s, or 57.s? I don't know why that was? Just because the car was a gasser doesn't mean you should put white walls on it either. Most of the cars in the 60s were not running those old whitewall slicks that were hard as a brick bat anymore either. But open up any HRM and low and behold some guy built himself a gasser with white walls on it and a big round number on the door. How misinformed the masses have become. Well I'll turn my rant off now. LOL Thanks for the reply.
I live up near Mt. Hood, close to Brightwood if you know where that's at? In the middle of mountains and the Mt. Hood National Forest.
Dave~
I remember the Dobertson's cars. Seems like every time he turned around was building a new one. I was NEVER a fan of anything he built always looked overly complicated and way way too busy. I remember one car I think it was the J2000 that the chassis was fabbed out of stainless steel? Bet that wasn't cheap? Then he talked his wife into helping him polish it all. I don't even remember the motor part of it, all I recollect is like the rest of the car was overly complicated. I got sick and tired of his stuff, as you say he was the darling of the all the car magazines. Pretty face but not behind it.
I also remember when Hot Rod Magazine used to be a good mag. Lots of coverage on drag racing and Bonneville, good coverage on street machines, and customs. That was the days before Hamburger got his hands on the editorship of HRM. Now we see if full of misinformation and he and his buddy driving around in Mid 80's Buick Convertables or XKE's with a stock 350 smc with a 6-71 on it. Big Oil burning turd. Then we watch as he bravely drives his Buick into a pile of large cardboard boxes. This b.s. got the center of the mag. I cancelled my subscription to it asap. Then he acts like the authority on gassers. I guess he wanted to get in on the newest craze the "gasser movement." He wasn't even born when those things were going down the tracks. He wasn't witness to them like I was growing up in the middle of the 50's and 60's. He wasn't the only one getting it wrong about those cars. I've seen all sorts of gunboats that someone decided to put a straight axle under the front end of it, rigs like station wagons and hurses, crap like that. The majority of the gas classes like A/G B/G C/G and D/G were either Anglias' stuff like that in the upper classes and 56 Chevrolets. I noticed that there were more 56 Chev's in D/G than either 55s, or 57.s? I don't know why that was? Just because the car was a gasser doesn't mean you should put white walls on it either. Most of the cars in the 60s were not running those old whitewall slicks that were hard as a brick bat anymore either. But open up any HRM and low and behold some guy built himself a gasser with white walls on it and a big round number on the door. How misinformed the masses have become. Well I'll turn my rant off now. LOL Thanks for the reply.
I live up near Mt. Hood, close to Brightwood if you know where that's at? In the middle of mountains and the Mt. Hood National Forest.
Dave~
Last edited by Prostreet Cutlass; July 20th, 2022 at 11:23 AM.
July 20th, 2022, 11:37 AM
#17
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2022
Location: Oregon
Posts: 8
442 I like your 442. it looks great black. with the white on it. Wow! I don't know what the hp or torque is on my motor it's never been on a dyno. I raced a big block (427) powered 55 Chev business coupe. It ran in the middle 10's at about 130 mph. At one time I had a program that would figure horsepower and torque from track performance. It said the motor in my 55 was making 750 horsepower. I'm sure the torque was up in the 650+ lbs feet area. My Olds feels almost as strong as the 55 did. It has that explosive power band to it like the 55 did. I'd have to guess and say it's probably within 100 hp of the 55's motor and the same for torque.
I must say that a 4:10 rear end screw is pretty low for an rpm limited motor like a 455? Does your overdrive get the motor into a lower rpm at freeway speeds? I"m not being critical of your choice but I won't spin my 455 over 5500 rpm. Those Stock Olds cranks have huge rod and main bearing journals on them and that increases the mean bearing speed on the rods and mains. The webbing in the blocks is kinda whimpy too. Do you have any sort of main supports in your engine? just curios is all.
YOu have a great looking car. Love to see it in person.
Dave~
I must say that a 4:10 rear end screw is pretty low for an rpm limited motor like a 455? Does your overdrive get the motor into a lower rpm at freeway speeds? I"m not being critical of your choice but I won't spin my 455 over 5500 rpm. Those Stock Olds cranks have huge rod and main bearing journals on them and that increases the mean bearing speed on the rods and mains. The webbing in the blocks is kinda whimpy too. Do you have any sort of main supports in your engine? just curios is all.
YOu have a great looking car. Love to see it in person.
Dave~
July 22nd, 2022, 03:12 PM
#18
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Colorado
Posts: 297
442 I like your 442. it looks great black. with the white on it. Wow! I don't know what the hp or torque is on my motor it's never been on a dyno. I raced a big block (427) powered 55 Chev business coupe. It ran in the middle 10's at about 130 mph. At one time I had a program that would figure horsepower and torque from track performance. It said the motor in my 55 was making 750 horsepower. I'm sure the torque was up in the 650+ lbs feet area. My Olds feels almost as strong as the 55 did. It has that explosive power band to it like the 55 did. I'd have to guess and say it's probably within 100 hp of the 55's motor and the same for torque.
I must say that a 4:10 rear end screw is pretty low for an rpm limited motor like a 455? Does your overdrive get the motor into a lower rpm at freeway speeds? I"m not being critical of your choice but I won't spin my 455 over 5500 rpm. Those Stock Olds cranks have huge rod and main bearing journals on them and that increases the mean bearing speed on the rods and mains. The webbing in the blocks is kinda whimpy too. Do you have any sort of main supports in your engine? just curios is all.
YOu have a great looking car. Love to see it in person.
Dave~
I must say that a 4:10 rear end screw is pretty low for an rpm limited motor like a 455? Does your overdrive get the motor into a lower rpm at freeway speeds? I"m not being critical of your choice but I won't spin my 455 over 5500 rpm. Those Stock Olds cranks have huge rod and main bearing journals on them and that increases the mean bearing speed on the rods and mains. The webbing in the blocks is kinda whimpy too. Do you have any sort of main supports in your engine? just curios is all.
YOu have a great looking car. Love to see it in person.
Dave~
I love the 4.10 gears and have them in my 600+ HP 67 Chevelle as well. I have Tremec 5 speeds on both and never take either above 5700 RPM. The Tremec keeps the Rs at about 2800 (if I remember right) at 80 MPH. It makes both cars fun to drive on the highway if I desire. My engine builder did a fantastic job on both my engines and they run well and strong with great oil pressure. I don't have any sort of webbing or anything special....just amazing machining by a truly talented engine builder. I have lots of build pics in my thread in my signature if you want to see more. There's also a video showing a walk around of the car while it's running to hear the exhaust notes and the engine lope. My engine is pushing 560+ HP and into the 600s for torque. I just recently upgraded the fuel system and intake as I didn't like what I had after the restore. I am still finalizing the tune but am very happy with it so far. The Holley SNIPER units are awesome when tuned correctly.
Source
July 25th, 2022, 08:34 AM
#19
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2022
Location: Oregon
Posts: 8
Dave---thanks. My car is actually dark green with the white accents. I chose the colors from the 2013 Chevy color palette.
I love the 4.10 gears and have them in my 600+ HP 67 Chevelle as well. I have Tremec 5 speeds on both and never take either above 5700 RPM. The Tremec keeps the Rs at about 2800 (if I remember right) at 80 MPH. It makes both cars fun to drive on the highway if I desire. My engine builder did a fantastic job on both my engines and they run well and strong with great oil pressure. I don't have any sort of webbing or anything special....just amazing machining by a truly talented engine builder. I have lots of build pics in my thread in my signature if you want to see more. There's also a video showing a walk around of the car while it's running to hear the exhaust notes and the engine lope. My engine is pushing 560+ HP and into the 600s for torque. I just recently upgraded the fuel system and intake as I didn't like what I had after the restore. I am still finalizing the tune but am very happy with it so far. The Holley SNIPER units are awesome when tuned correctly.
Source
I love the 4.10 gears and have them in my 600+ HP 67 Chevelle as well. I have Tremec 5 speeds on both and never take either above 5700 RPM. The Tremec keeps the Rs at about 2800 (if I remember right) at 80 MPH. It makes both cars fun to drive on the highway if I desire. My engine builder did a fantastic job on both my engines and they run well and strong with great oil pressure. I don't have any sort of webbing or anything special....just amazing machining by a truly talented engine builder. I have lots of build pics in my thread in my signature if you want to see more. There's also a video showing a walk around of the car while it's running to hear the exhaust notes and the engine lope. My engine is pushing 560+ HP and into the 600s for torque. I just recently upgraded the fuel system and intake as I didn't like what I had after the restore. I am still finalizing the tune but am very happy with it so far. The Holley SNIPER units are awesome when tuned correctly.
Source
July 25th, 2022, 08:50 AM
#20
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2022
Location: Oregon
Posts: 8
Hey Steve. Sorry about the delay in response to your reply. I did reply a couple of days ago and made the mistake of clicking no the "Go Advanced" button and this site took me to some other place and seems to have lost my reply to you. To be honest this site leaves me scratching my head about it's layout. To me it's confusing as hell. I really like the folks I've met on it so far and the cars are for the most part really stellar.
I apologize for my assumption on the color of your car. It came thru as black on my monitor. LOL. Beautiful car in any color. I also looked at your restoration of it and I'm amazed by that, wow what a ton of work you put into it! Nice shop too btw. Wish I had a lift in my shop!
I was thinking of using one of those tail shaft mounted overdrives on the back end of my Turbo 400. I don't have the money to convert it over to a 5 or 6 speed. I have to be careful how tall my gearing gets because of the camshaft timing and the intake manifold and carb combination on my car. Running it down the road ( I live off of highway 26 which is a 4 lane highway) The converter locks up around 2600 rpm. If I run the motor any slower than that it keeps the converter slipping. Something you dont' have to worry about? LOL, My car turns 2650 on a twenty seven inch tall tire at 55 mph with 3:42's in it. This is great because the camshaft and the intake manifold start shaking hands right there. I love the way my car runs. I could put in a low gear set in the trans and get a bit more grunt out of it in low gear but it's got so much low end anyway even with the camshaft I have in it that it would just blow the tires away. Am thinking of running a DOT slick on the back of it. I got a pair of 28 X 10.50 X 15's to fit on the back end of it but they were drag slicks. I think I could get pair of 29.5's on it too. I'd rather run the 29.5's on it. They hook better than a 28 does. Just left overs from my drag racing days. I used to watch these guys run those low profile tires that really belong on a wheel borrow on the track. They couldn't get their cars to hook for ****. Not enough diameter. Well that's all for me. You and I seem to be on the same page on our cars. That's cool, you're a cool dude thanks for being a gentleman.
Dave~
I apologize for my assumption on the color of your car. It came thru as black on my monitor. LOL. Beautiful car in any color. I also looked at your restoration of it and I'm amazed by that, wow what a ton of work you put into it! Nice shop too btw. Wish I had a lift in my shop!
I was thinking of using one of those tail shaft mounted overdrives on the back end of my Turbo 400. I don't have the money to convert it over to a 5 or 6 speed. I have to be careful how tall my gearing gets because of the camshaft timing and the intake manifold and carb combination on my car. Running it down the road ( I live off of highway 26 which is a 4 lane highway) The converter locks up around 2600 rpm. If I run the motor any slower than that it keeps the converter slipping. Something you dont' have to worry about? LOL, My car turns 2650 on a twenty seven inch tall tire at 55 mph with 3:42's in it. This is great because the camshaft and the intake manifold start shaking hands right there. I love the way my car runs. I could put in a low gear set in the trans and get a bit more grunt out of it in low gear but it's got so much low end anyway even with the camshaft I have in it that it would just blow the tires away. Am thinking of running a DOT slick on the back of it. I got a pair of 28 X 10.50 X 15's to fit on the back end of it but they were drag slicks. I think I could get pair of 29.5's on it too. I'd rather run the 29.5's on it. They hook better than a 28 does. Just left overs from my drag racing days. I used to watch these guys run those low profile tires that really belong on a wheel borrow on the track. They couldn't get their cars to hook for ****. Not enough diameter. Well that's all for me. You and I seem to be on the same page on our cars. That's cool, you're a cool dude thanks for being a gentleman.
Dave~
Last edited by Prostreet Cutlass; July 25th, 2022 at 08:52 AM.
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