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Hot start issues

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Old Jan 13, 2013 | 01:24 PM
  #1  
Joe Hatton's Avatar
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Hot start issues

My car starts great when cold, but after it warms up it won't start at all. It cranks just fine after it's hot...just won't start. Any ideas or redirection to prior posts are great. I have a 1972 cutlass with a fresh rebuild and brand new distributor ( standard points model).
Old Jan 13, 2013 | 01:39 PM
  #2  
1970cs's Avatar
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When it gets hot, do you have spark?

Pat
Old Jan 13, 2013 | 01:42 PM
  #3  
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If it is hard to start when hot, there are many things that cause this. I would start with the basics, and go thru my tune and recheck carb and make sure choke is pulling off. Also re-torque intake and carb bolts. What is your dwell, timing, idle speed set to?

If it won't start at all, then u need to check the big 3, air, fuel and spark. That is what is needed for a car to run.

Last edited by oldcutlass; Jan 13, 2013 at 02:18 PM.
Old Jan 13, 2013 | 02:04 PM
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65B01Delta's Avatar
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Coil ?
Old Jan 13, 2013 | 02:29 PM
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No spark, posible coil or condenser
sparks, flooding or no fuel
Old Jan 13, 2013 | 03:16 PM
  #6  
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Originally Posted by 1970cs
When it gets hot, do you have spark?

Pat
What Pat said. We need more info to provide a useful answer. Since the engine turns over (presumably at the correct speed) the battery is fine. Next thing to check is spark and carb (fuel and choke). Is this a stock carb or an aftermarket? What type of choke?
Old Jan 13, 2013 | 04:42 PM
  #7  
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Does it eventually start after a few seconds more of cranking?
Old Jan 16, 2013 | 07:10 PM
  #8  
Joe Hatton's Avatar
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Thanks for all the input and sorry for late reply...damn work thing getting in the way again. I added a new coil and resistor- so far seems to have done it
The engine was a new rebuild with edelbrock performer cam, intake and carb.
I will hook up the electric choke this weekend, recheck the torque on manifold bolts and god willing be done for awhile.


Thanks again to all for the input, great forum
Old Jan 17, 2013 | 06:10 AM
  #9  
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"I will hook up the electric choke this weekend"

If the electric choke was not hooked up, was it adjusted to stay full open?
If not, then engine was flooding when hot and I suspect problem not in coil.
Old Jan 17, 2013 | 09:32 AM
  #10  
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Great info, overlooked that one. Well, the coil was original anyway and the $40 was cheap insurance for my teenager that will undoubtedly commandere (sp.) the car soon
Old Jan 17, 2013 | 12:00 PM
  #11  
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From: Sistersville, WV
Working on points and carborated cars has me overlooking things that I forget after so many years.
If your re-install the old coil and find it was not the trouble, keep it along with a known good set of points and a condenser in the car. I always did that on point cars.
For 70 and 80 GM HEI cars, I kept a spare rotor.
For 70 and 80 Fords, ignition module
Don't know what to carry for 90s to 2010 cars.
Don't own any 2010 and up cars.
Old Jan 17, 2013 | 05:05 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by m371961
Don't know what to carry for 90s to 2010 cars.
Don't own any 2010 and up cars.
AAA and a credit card with a large limit!
Old Jan 17, 2013 | 06:18 PM
  #13  
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Find a good body shop before you let a teenager drive it, too!
Not to mention good insurance.

Last edited by Rickman48; Jan 17, 2013 at 06:22 PM.
Old Jan 18, 2013 | 06:40 PM
  #14  
Joe Hatton's Avatar
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Funny. unfortunately I am the body shop too. Any kid turning wrenches is all good with me
Old Jan 18, 2013 | 08:22 PM
  #15  
OLD SKL 69's Avatar
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Originally Posted by Joe Hatton
Great info, overlooked that one. Well, the coil was original anyway and the $40 was cheap insurance for my teenager that will undoubtedly commandere (sp.) the car soon
Most of these original coils are toast by now and should be replaced, even for just some peace of mind.
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