Hi from Essex in the UK
February 7th, 2011, 12:59 PM
#1
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Join Date: Feb 2011
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Hi from Essex in the UK
Hi my names Fred, I have recently bought a 1959 super 88 coupe which came in to the UK feb 08. I was told that it has come from a dessert state where it was stored in an old shed. Judging by the black/grey sand found in every part I remove this sounds about right.
Like all cars that have laid idle for some years, every time we go for a drive something seems to fail (but hey the old girls over 50).
The latest problem is the brake pedel is hard to push and has no stopping power, the car has power brakes so any suggestions much appreciated to help solve this.
I have fitted new rear brake cylinders and appears not to be loosing fluid.
Cheers
Like all cars that have laid idle for some years, every time we go for a drive something seems to fail (but hey the old girls over 50).
The latest problem is the brake pedel is hard to push and has no stopping power, the car has power brakes so any suggestions much appreciated to help solve this.
I have fitted new rear brake cylinders and appears not to be loosing fluid.
Cheers
February 7th, 2011, 03:10 PM
#5
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Forest Ranch Ca.
Posts: 7,730
Greetings Fred,
The first thing I would check is your power booster. Hold down hard on the brake and then start the car. You should feel the peddle sink a little if the booster is working.Also check the vacuum line that is hooked to the master cylinder for leaks or it may have come off. If every thing is OK. Next I would then check the master cylinder for fluid in both front and back chambers if it has two devoiced chambers that is,my 55 doesn't,not sure on a 59 and top it off. Sounds as though your front brakes aren't working and if they worked before something has given it up.If alls good so far I would probably pull a front wheel and see whats up with that. Kind of a hit and miss diagnose from 5000 miles away but this should get you started Please keep us updated...Tedd
The first thing I would check is your power booster. Hold down hard on the brake and then start the car. You should feel the peddle sink a little if the booster is working.Also check the vacuum line that is hooked to the master cylinder for leaks or it may have come off. If every thing is OK. Next I would then check the master cylinder for fluid in both front and back chambers if it has two devoiced chambers that is,my 55 doesn't,not sure on a 59 and top it off. Sounds as though your front brakes aren't working and if they worked before something has given it up.If alls good so far I would probably pull a front wheel and see whats up with that. Kind of a hit and miss diagnose from 5000 miles away but this should get you started Please keep us updated...Tedd
February 11th, 2011, 09:12 AM
#9
'87 Delta 88 Royale
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Margate, England
Posts: 2,513
local to me.
High Fred,
Roger from Margate, Kent here. If you need any bits for your Olds I am going to Texas in March, maybe I could bring them back for you.
Have you tried jacking each wheel in turn and trying the brakes?, it may well have siezed brake cylinders or collapsed flex hoses, hope you get it fixed - good luck!.
Roger from Margate, Kent here. If you need any bits for your Olds I am going to Texas in March, maybe I could bring them back for you.
Have you tried jacking each wheel in turn and trying the brakes?, it may well have siezed brake cylinders or collapsed flex hoses, hope you get it fixed - good luck!.
February 11th, 2011, 09:30 AM
#10
I had a 59 Olds that was always having brake problems. I never found any leaks, but was always having to fill the tredlevac(?). If I remeber right we ended up changing a rubber diaphram in it and it worked great.
February 11th, 2011, 01:03 PM
#13
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 13
Greetings Fred,
The first thing I would check is your power booster. Hold down hard on the brake and then start the car. You should feel the peddle sink a little if the booster is working.Also check the vacuum line that is hooked to the master cylinder for leaks or it may have come off. If every thing is OK. Next I would then check the master cylinder for fluid in both front and back chambers if it has two devoiced chambers that is,my 55 doesn't,not sure on a 59 and top it off. Sounds as though your front brakes aren't working and if they worked before something has given it up.If alls good so far I would probably pull a front wheel and see whats up with that. Kind of a hit and miss diagnose from 5000 miles away but this should get you started Please keep us updated...Tedd
The first thing I would check is your power booster. Hold down hard on the brake and then start the car. You should feel the peddle sink a little if the booster is working.Also check the vacuum line that is hooked to the master cylinder for leaks or it may have come off. If every thing is OK. Next I would then check the master cylinder for fluid in both front and back chambers if it has two devoiced chambers that is,my 55 doesn't,not sure on a 59 and top it off. Sounds as though your front brakes aren't working and if they worked before something has given it up.If alls good so far I would probably pull a front wheel and see whats up with that. Kind of a hit and miss diagnose from 5000 miles away but this should get you started Please keep us updated...Tedd
February 11th, 2011, 01:05 PM
#14
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 13
High Fred,
Roger from Margate, Kent here. If you need any bits for your Olds I am going to Texas in March, maybe I could bring them back for you.
Have you tried jacking each wheel in turn and trying the brakes?, it may well have siezed brake cylinders or collapsed flex hoses, hope you get it fixed - good luck!.
Roger from Margate, Kent here. If you need any bits for your Olds I am going to Texas in March, maybe I could bring them back for you.
Have you tried jacking each wheel in turn and trying the brakes?, it may well have siezed brake cylinders or collapsed flex hoses, hope you get it fixed - good luck!.
February 11th, 2011, 01:10 PM
#15
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 13
Thanks for that, is the rubber diaphram in the brake booster? (a new one could be hard to find in the UK)
February 11th, 2011, 01:17 PM
#16
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February 13th, 2011, 09:56 AM
#19
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Hi Ted, i have tried all you have suggested, foot hard on brake pedal started motor and pedal sank a very small distance, maybe an 1/8th inch. All vacum pipes attatched and no leaks.The front hubs were very difficult to remove i had to undo bleed screws to get hubs off once removed found brake shoes worn almost to the metal. Hope this is the answer to my problems but could be a while tracking new brake shoes in UK may have to ship from USA. Chhers Fred
February 13th, 2011, 11:58 PM
#20
'87 Delta 88 Royale
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Margate, England
Posts: 2,513
UK suppliers.
Hi Fred;
I have found the following suppliers to be very helpful, US Automotive, Rodley Motors, & OCW. They all advertise in Classic American magazine.
LCP in Kent used to reline shoes, I don't know if they still offer this service, I dare say there are firms in Essex that will do the job as well, look for commercial vehicle suppliers in your area.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Roger.
I have found the following suppliers to be very helpful, US Automotive, Rodley Motors, & OCW. They all advertise in Classic American magazine.
LCP in Kent used to reline shoes, I don't know if they still offer this service, I dare say there are firms in Essex that will do the job as well, look for commercial vehicle suppliers in your area.
Hope this helps.
Regards,
Roger.
February 14th, 2011, 06:50 PM
#21
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Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Forest Ranch Ca.
Posts: 7,730
Fred, I'm not quite sure why you would have to back off the bleeder to release the hub,(drum) this is usually achieved by backing off the adjusting screw. This is found on the backside of the backing plate, opposite side as the hub.There should be a rubber stopper covering this hole. Inside this hole is a ratchet adjusting screw, some call it a star. This is the place to start releasing the tension on the brake shoes When the ratchet moves toward the front of the wheel the shoes will free up and you will be able to pull the drum off without any problem. There is a special tool used to work that ratchet but I have used a heavy screwdriver to do this many times.
When you replace the new shoes just assemble in reverse, tighten shoes till drum will not turn, then back off adjuster about 15 clicks, this is about the slack you need so everything spins freely. All wheels must be the same or the car will pull to one side or the other
I think you would be way ahead of the game if you could locate a shop manual for your car.It would take much of the grief and mysteries out of your repairs and add pleasure to what has been a hassle in the past... Always willing to help. Lost in the 50's.... Tedd
When you replace the new shoes just assemble in reverse, tighten shoes till drum will not turn, then back off adjuster about 15 clicks, this is about the slack you need so everything spins freely. All wheels must be the same or the car will pull to one side or the other
I think you would be way ahead of the game if you could locate a shop manual for your car.It would take much of the grief and mysteries out of your repairs and add pleasure to what has been a hassle in the past... Always willing to help. Lost in the 50's.... Tedd
February 16th, 2011, 10:59 AM
#23
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 13
Fred, I'm not quite sure why you would have to back off the bleeder to release the hub,(drum) this is usually achieved by backing off the adjusting screw. This is found on the backside of the backing plate, opposite side as the hub.There should be a rubber stopper covering this hole. Inside this hole is a ratchet adjusting screw, some call it a star. This is the place to start releasing the tension on the brake shoes When the ratchet moves toward the front of the wheel the shoes will free up and you will be able to pull the drum off without any problem. There is a special tool used to work that ratchet but I have used a heavy screwdriver to do this many times.
When you replace the new shoes just assemble in reverse, tighten shoes till drum will not turn, then back off adjuster about 15 clicks, this is about the slack you need so everything spins freely. All wheels must be the same or the car will pull to one side or the other
I think you would be way ahead of the game if you could locate a shop manual for your car.It would take much of the grief and mysteries out of your repairs and add pleasure to what has been a hassle in the past... Always willing to help. Lost in the 50's.... Tedd
When you replace the new shoes just assemble in reverse, tighten shoes till drum will not turn, then back off adjuster about 15 clicks, this is about the slack you need so everything spins freely. All wheels must be the same or the car will pull to one side or the other
I think you would be way ahead of the game if you could locate a shop manual for your car.It would take much of the grief and mysteries out of your repairs and add pleasure to what has been a hassle in the past... Always willing to help. Lost in the 50's.... Tedd
February 16th, 2011, 11:23 AM
#24
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Join Date: Feb 2011
Posts: 13
Hi Ted
I opened the bleeder as i could not turn the star on the adjuster with a scerwdriver through the slot in the backplate and did not want to damage the star, have cleaned and greased the adjuster it now turns alot easier.Will follow your advice when i reassembling . Yep guess i could do with a shop manual ( anyone help).thanks Ted will let you know how it goes or stops Fred
I opened the bleeder as i could not turn the star on the adjuster with a scerwdriver through the slot in the backplate and did not want to damage the star, have cleaned and greased the adjuster it now turns alot easier.Will follow your advice when i reassembling . Yep guess i could do with a shop manual ( anyone help).thanks Ted will let you know how it goes or stops Fred
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