Hello New Friends
Hello New Friends
I had a 1967 Cutlass Supreme when I was attending college. It was actually in pretty bad shape, and I had to run the heater in the summer to keep it from overheating. It had a 330 CID engine with a three-speed transmission. Although the car was in poor shape, I loved the looks of it. Fast forward 45 years and I have bought a 1967 Cutlass Supreme Holiday Coupe. I am cleaning it up and fixing what needs fixing. It is gold with a black vinyl roof. 330 CID engine and a two-speed Jetaway transmission. All original with its original paint. Glad to be here.
Welcome. I have big cars, but you have my favorite year Cutlass/442. ‘67 was the peak to me. Clean mature design. The tail lights were a solid advance over ‘66.
There is a deep supply of repair and maintenance parts for these cars. Generically a ‘67 Cutlass is considered a GM “A body” meaning that they share some stuff with Chevelle, Skylarks, & Pontiac Tempest/GTO. So you can swap _some_ stuff. But not engines, not rear ends, and only limited trim.
Get the A body catalogs and websites, but consider 65-67 your key target years. In 68 GM went to the more popular teardrop shape (and then onto Collanade styling in ‘73) so start with 65-67 and fall back to other years for parts if you need to.
330/Jetway is a classic combination. Usually the advice here is keep the car original. I support that. But if, in your dreams, you really want a big block with a TH400 or 4 speed Muncie, I’d say go for it as an adventure. Those kind of changes take time and $, but if that’s where your head is, it’s part of the fun. I’m pretty much a purist and have left my big cars more or less stock, but here & there I kick around converting my Starfire to a modern manual 5 speed and have begun stockpiling the parts to make it happen someday.
Quick technical hits are upgrade to and HEI distributor if you want to avoid adjusting points and are willing to carry a spare HEI module in the glove box. An internally regulated alternator to avoid the firewall mounted voltage regulator is a good fix too. Disc brakes are a good safety change. 1967 drums don’t stop as fast as modern car discs do so every car ahead of you can stop shorter than you. When you drive leave stopping room ahead of you. If you carry passengers, consider adding middle seat seatbelts to protect them.
Warmly suggest that you focus on safety first. These cars are all but 60 years old now. They have lived lives long before you. Personally I start with tires, brakes, and suspension - if you know they’re good, you pretty much have the stuff that can kill you covered. Then I move onto reliability stuff - electrical, engine. Then I head for exterior paint, body, exterior trim. For me the final step is interior trim. Keep a fire extinguisher in the trunk and carry some tools. Put a jumper cable in the trunk too.
Myself excluded, the depth of knowledge here at C/O is fantastic. Dig in, read up and enjoy!
Cheers
Chris
There is a deep supply of repair and maintenance parts for these cars. Generically a ‘67 Cutlass is considered a GM “A body” meaning that they share some stuff with Chevelle, Skylarks, & Pontiac Tempest/GTO. So you can swap _some_ stuff. But not engines, not rear ends, and only limited trim.
Get the A body catalogs and websites, but consider 65-67 your key target years. In 68 GM went to the more popular teardrop shape (and then onto Collanade styling in ‘73) so start with 65-67 and fall back to other years for parts if you need to.
330/Jetway is a classic combination. Usually the advice here is keep the car original. I support that. But if, in your dreams, you really want a big block with a TH400 or 4 speed Muncie, I’d say go for it as an adventure. Those kind of changes take time and $, but if that’s where your head is, it’s part of the fun. I’m pretty much a purist and have left my big cars more or less stock, but here & there I kick around converting my Starfire to a modern manual 5 speed and have begun stockpiling the parts to make it happen someday.
Quick technical hits are upgrade to and HEI distributor if you want to avoid adjusting points and are willing to carry a spare HEI module in the glove box. An internally regulated alternator to avoid the firewall mounted voltage regulator is a good fix too. Disc brakes are a good safety change. 1967 drums don’t stop as fast as modern car discs do so every car ahead of you can stop shorter than you. When you drive leave stopping room ahead of you. If you carry passengers, consider adding middle seat seatbelts to protect them.
Warmly suggest that you focus on safety first. These cars are all but 60 years old now. They have lived lives long before you. Personally I start with tires, brakes, and suspension - if you know they’re good, you pretty much have the stuff that can kill you covered. Then I move onto reliability stuff - electrical, engine. Then I head for exterior paint, body, exterior trim. For me the final step is interior trim. Keep a fire extinguisher in the trunk and carry some tools. Put a jumper cable in the trunk too.
Myself excluded, the depth of knowledge here at C/O is fantastic. Dig in, read up and enjoy!
Cheers
Chris
↑ great post Cfair. Priority thorough.
I had similar issues with my first car a 330 3sp 67 Cutlass Coupe and she was in good shape. In my case it was likely the lack of shroud, followed by the 4 blade fan, followed by traffic. My first car back in 1980s and I really drove her.
Nice, welcome aboard.
Cfair covered it so well it's hard to follow up. But if you do decide to modify. Swapping the Jetaway to a TH350 will be the biggest bang for your buck bar none. Jetaways are missing a real first gear the difference between the two is 1 full second in performance. The equivalent of a 25 hp gain without touching the engine. Not to mention how much more fluid the car will be when mingling with modern traffic.
Cfair covered it so well it's hard to follow up. But if you do decide to modify. Swapping the Jetaway to a TH350 will be the biggest bang for your buck bar none. Jetaways are missing a real first gear the difference between the two is 1 full second in performance. The equivalent of a 25 hp gain without touching the engine. Not to mention how much more fluid the car will be when mingling with modern traffic.
Welcome. I have big cars, but you have my favorite year Cutlass/442. ‘67 was the peak to me. Clean mature design. The tail lights were a solid advance over ‘66.
There is a deep supply of repair and maintenance parts for these cars. Generically a ‘67 Cutlass is considered a GM “A body” meaning that they share some stuff with Chevelle, Skylarks, & Pontiac Tempest/GTO. So you can swap _some_ stuff. But not engines, not rear ends, and only limited trim.
Get the A body catalogs and websites, but consider 65-67 your key target years. In 68 GM went to the more popular teardrop shape (and then onto Collanade styling in ‘73) so start with 65-67 and fall back to other years for parts if you need to.
330/Jetway is a classic combination. Usually the advice here is keep the car original. I support that. But if, in your dreams, you really want a big block with a TH400 or 4 speed Muncie, I’d say go for it as an adventure. Those kind of changes take time and $, but if that’s where your head is, it’s part of the fun. I’m pretty much a purist and have left my big cars more or less stock, but here & there I kick around converting my Starfire to a modern manual 5 speed and have begun stockpiling the parts to make it happen someday.
Quick technical hits are upgrade to and HEI distributor if you want to avoid adjusting points and are willing to carry a spare HEI module in the glove box. An internally regulated alternator to avoid the firewall mounted voltage regulator is a good fix too. Disc brakes are a good safety change. 1967 drums don’t stop as fast as modern car discs do so every car ahead of you can stop shorter than you. When you drive leave stopping room ahead of you. If you carry passengers, consider adding middle seat seatbelts to protect them.
Warmly suggest that you focus on safety first. These cars are all but 60 years old now. They have lived lives long before you. Personally I start with tires, brakes, and suspension - if you know they’re good, you pretty much have the stuff that can kill you covered. Then I move onto reliability stuff - electrical, engine. Then I head for exterior paint, body, exterior trim. For me the final step is interior trim. Keep a fire extinguisher in the trunk and carry some tools. Put a jumper cable in the trunk too.
Myself excluded, the depth of knowledge here at C/O is fantastic. Dig in, read up and enjoy!
Cheers
Chris
There is a deep supply of repair and maintenance parts for these cars. Generically a ‘67 Cutlass is considered a GM “A body” meaning that they share some stuff with Chevelle, Skylarks, & Pontiac Tempest/GTO. So you can swap _some_ stuff. But not engines, not rear ends, and only limited trim.
Get the A body catalogs and websites, but consider 65-67 your key target years. In 68 GM went to the more popular teardrop shape (and then onto Collanade styling in ‘73) so start with 65-67 and fall back to other years for parts if you need to.
330/Jetway is a classic combination. Usually the advice here is keep the car original. I support that. But if, in your dreams, you really want a big block with a TH400 or 4 speed Muncie, I’d say go for it as an adventure. Those kind of changes take time and $, but if that’s where your head is, it’s part of the fun. I’m pretty much a purist and have left my big cars more or less stock, but here & there I kick around converting my Starfire to a modern manual 5 speed and have begun stockpiling the parts to make it happen someday.
Quick technical hits are upgrade to and HEI distributor if you want to avoid adjusting points and are willing to carry a spare HEI module in the glove box. An internally regulated alternator to avoid the firewall mounted voltage regulator is a good fix too. Disc brakes are a good safety change. 1967 drums don’t stop as fast as modern car discs do so every car ahead of you can stop shorter than you. When you drive leave stopping room ahead of you. If you carry passengers, consider adding middle seat seatbelts to protect them.
Warmly suggest that you focus on safety first. These cars are all but 60 years old now. They have lived lives long before you. Personally I start with tires, brakes, and suspension - if you know they’re good, you pretty much have the stuff that can kill you covered. Then I move onto reliability stuff - electrical, engine. Then I head for exterior paint, body, exterior trim. For me the final step is interior trim. Keep a fire extinguisher in the trunk and carry some tools. Put a jumper cable in the trunk too.
Myself excluded, the depth of knowledge here at C/O is fantastic. Dig in, read up and enjoy!
Cheers
Chris
↑ great post Cfair. Priority thorough.
I had similar issues with my first car a 330 3sp 67 Cutlass Coupe and she was in good shape. In my case it was likely the lack of shroud, followed by the 4 blade fan, followed by traffic. My first car back in 1980s and I really drove her.
Nice, welcome aboard.
Cfair covered it so well it's hard to follow up. But if you do decide to modify. Swapping the Jetaway to a TH350 will be the biggest bang for your buck bar none. Jetaways are missing a real first gear the difference between the two is 1 full second in performance. The equivalent of a 25 hp gain without touching the engine. Not to mention how much more fluid the car will be when mingling with modern traffic.
I had similar issues with my first car a 330 3sp 67 Cutlass Coupe and she was in good shape. In my case it was likely the lack of shroud, followed by the 4 blade fan, followed by traffic. My first car back in 1980s and I really drove her.
Nice, welcome aboard.
Cfair covered it so well it's hard to follow up. But if you do decide to modify. Swapping the Jetaway to a TH350 will be the biggest bang for your buck bar none. Jetaways are missing a real first gear the difference between the two is 1 full second in performance. The equivalent of a 25 hp gain without touching the engine. Not to mention how much more fluid the car will be when mingling with modern traffic.
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