Hello , I am new to this and just purchased a 1969 Cutlass S Convertible. Could some one please help me decode my body tag info.
ST69 33667LAN410401 BDY
TR 943 53 C PNT
06A
Thanks

 

Welcome aboard.

If that's the car in your avatar, it doesn't look close to the cowl tag info

ST - 69 is 1969 model year production
3 - Oldsmobile division
3600 - Cutlass
67 - Convertible model
LAN - production plant - Lansing Michigan
Body - 410401 - Body number assigned by Lansing Fisher Body Works
TR943 - Trim combination Blue cloth/vinyl combination bench seat
PNT 53 C - Nassau Blue with Blue vert top.
06A - Time build code at Fisher body works. 06=June, A = first week. Car is a late production 69 built in June of 1969.

 

Would have looked more like this from the factory:

 

Thanks for the info, I guess there have been some huge changes in my car over the past 45 years. It is the car in the avatar and is now Candy Apple Red with a black leather bench seat. How can I tell if it has the original motor and Transmission. Which transmission would have been in this model ?

 

Paint and interior changes are pretty common. Black interiors are the most popular and original covers can be easily dyed that color.

If the engine is original it will have a VIN derivative on the stamping pad. Here's a link to a thread that shoes where to look. Your car should start out as 39MXXXXXX. This translates to
3 - Oldsmobiel
9 - 1969 model
M - Lansing
XXXXXX - the last 6 digits of your VIN.

Standary tranny in 69 for Cutlass S was a column mounted manual. But likely the car has the M38 TH350. The VIN derivative is also stamped onto the drivers side of the transmission (horizontal surface flange) close to the tail shaft.

 

Hey Allan, usually you have wonderful and accurate information! But I believe you had a senior moment.

You had stated 1969 built in 1970 June? I think you were aiming for week 1 of June of 1969! As we well know that any year production starts around the beginning of August of the previous model year.

In this case 8-68 for commencement of builds in Lansing and ending the model around mid to late July of 1969.

Pat

 

Here are a few pictures . I like the new colour.

 

Pat, oooops. My bad. Yes the years are starting to blur on me. More than just the car if you know what I mean. I went back and fixed the error. Thank you for the heads up!

Dave - Sorry bout dat! BTW, I get the impression you are in Canada or a commonwealth country based on your spelling of the word colour. Where are you?

 

Yes Allen,
I live in New Brunswick Canada. Just had the car shipped down from Strathroy Ontario which is not far from Lansing Michigan where this car came from originally.Its a long story but I had a beautiful Harley Davidson that I traded for this car. My younger sister was killed in a bike accident this spring so my family and I decided that it was no longer right for me to be riding. I traded without seeing the car and now am concerned that the person may have told a few lies > Hopfully I can get the problems I have found taken care of. There may be some cracks in the frame which he covered with bondo. I am feeling very dissapointed over the whole situation.

 

Cracks in the frame is scary stuff so I'd check that out really carefully. Was the car built for the Canadian market? If it is (and you end up keeping it) you can get GM documentation for it. This only applies to cars built in Canada or built for export to Canada. The car looks really nice in the pictures. Hopefully the frame is ok, but if not this car shares its chassis with all the A body 68/69 verts in the GM lineup. There is a slight change in the rear frame that makes the 70-72 chassis a little different. The one thing you can't do is put the body onto a non boxed hardtop frame.

I'm sorry to hear about your sister, my condolences.

 

Thanks for all the info you provided Allen. I am having the frame checked in detail tomorrow and will let you know the out come. I do want to keep this car as I consider it as therapy for the loss of my sister. I cannot believe there are people in this world that would lie about such things. I had specifically asked about the frame before trading. Anyway , live and learn and Karma will visit this man someday.

 

If you have bondo'd frame cracks, you need to check EVERYTHING...

A friend bought a car from ePay a while back, similar model. Holes in the frame. We ended up replacing the frame with one from a non-convert, after welding the boxing sections from the rotted one in. And from there up refurbished the car.

 

Dave, when it comes to car sales? You'd probably be able to count on your hands the number of honest people you'll meet. Sometimes its what they don't say that becomes the problem. In your case, if the seller misrepresented the cars condition with lies, you may have a civil remedy in the courts. Most used car sales are based on where is/as is. But if the seller specifically said the frame was ok and it's not? I believe that falls under fraudulent representation. Anyhoo, let us know how it turns out. BTW, there's also a stamping on the frame just in front of the drivers side wheel hump that will have the VIN derivative on it. Check out this thread Vin number stamped in the frame John put together some really good information in picture format here. There are also other threads that deal with frame numbers, but this one is really decent IMO.