Hello folks, I'm a retired English guy now living in France. I've just bought a 65 Jetstar 88 convertible. It has the original 330cu motor and 2 speed trans. I've got a carb rebuild kit and have viewed the tuning videos. To start my car takes 4 pumps of gas and away it goes, give it 1 minute to warm up and it drives fine. I've taken off the air cleaner with the engine cold and the top butterfly is open fully. The choke linkage is free moving. The choke assembly is connected by the water pipe to the head. Should the choke butterfly be open or closed on starting, and does the fact that it's summer affect this at all. I'm completely new to American cars, but the fact that they can be worked on and repaired without a computer is one of many attractions.

Thanks in advance for any help. Bill.

 

Welcome, the choke should be mostly closed when the engine is cold, usually a pump on the gas pedal will set it, it may need adjusting or the mechanism on the side of the carb is broken.

Yes the older cars are pretty simple!

We need some pic's!

 

the choke should be FULLY closed below 80F. unless the choke is mis-adjusted, your choke coil may have lost it's tension.


bill

 

Many thanks guys, I'll have a look at both areas. I'm finding this site a bit difficult to navigate...................a bit too much info for a block head like me. How do I upload pics??


Kind regards, Bill.

 

Welcome! When you post a reply scroll down a bit & look below the message window, you should see the "Manage Attachments" button. Select that then use the "browse" button to go to the folder you have your pics saved. Once you have them selected hit the "Upload" button & you should be good to go.

 

I think by pumping it more than once pulls off the choke as it pulls itself off if allowed to function.

 

Thanks for that, I'll have a go.

Regards, Bill.

 

Tried to upload 5 photos. After several minutes got a message saying there was a fault and "Security Tokens" were missing.

My usual PC jinx is in force.

Cheers, Bill.

 

Make sure your pictures are under 1.5MB in size or errors will occure.

BTW, welcome to the site! Hope you are doing good in France...

 

as long as it's not running it will not release the choke, unless, you go all the way down to the floor and hold the pedal there. that activates the choke unloader. the unloader is meant for clearing a flooded engine so it can be started. if the choke is cold, when you start to release the pedal from the floor, the unloader mechanism is released well before you get the pedal back up to 60% of W.O.T. and the choke will re set itself to the FULLY closed position(below 80F).


bill

 

Thanks Rob and Bill. I'll check the picture sizes. Had a quick look at tghe choke assembly. It seems all the linkage is in place and free, but it doesn't seem to be under spring tension. I'll see if I can get a service kit for the choke as well.

Thanks everybody for your help and interest.

As Arnie said, "I'll be back".

Bill.

 

Hello again gang................
So, my pics are all 2.5 MB, hence the upload proble.

My carb has no numbers or identification plate. But I'm now pretty sure it's a 2GV, with the heating via a pipe from the inlet manifold.

The choke does not work for sure, having gone through the routine suggested, although the linkage appears to be complete and free working. The screw thread junctionon the choke body is stripped so the nut on the heater pipe is not locating properly, but I can make it seal with a bit of luck. I've ordered a choke coil kit.

So my question is: Does the non operation of the choke coil assembly cause operation of internal choke jets when driving normally? As I'm getting terrible gas mileage and a bad gas smell in the exhaust gases. Or is this more likely a gas/air mixture issue. Many thanks as always for any help.

Bill.

 

that depends on what exactly is going on. if the choke isn't opening fully when the engine is warm, yes it will cause the symptoms of richness you stated. there are no internal choke jets, just by the choke valve closing is the mixture richened. there is nothing saying that you don't have another issue going on with the carb. like incorrect float height, or a heavy float, or some other problem. first, address the choke problem, get that resolved, then go from there. a 2g carb. has a power piston inside it that actuates a power valve, the power piston is controlled by engine vacuum. if there's a low vacuum issue, it could cause the power piston to open the power valve unnecessarily. that would also cause poor mileage/odor.


bill

 

Hi again Bill. Many thanks for advice. What I think is the main choke valve at the very top of the carb body is always wide open (in the vertical position) My plan of attack is exactly as you say, get the choke working properly and then address mixture/ float issues. The choke kit is coming from the US, so will take a while. I'll get back to you later with more questions I'm sure.


Thanks again, kind regards, Bill.

 

yvw. that sounds like the choke valve you're describing. it sounds like your carb. is running so rich, it doesn't need the choke to start. i think you'll want to order a carb. kit also, and a float(to be on the safe side as we don't know yet if it has an original brass or replacement nitrophyll float).


bill

 

Hi Bill. yes exactly, the whole choke mechanism plays no part in starting the motor. I pump the gas pedal 4 times, it fires right up, leave it running for a few minutes and drive off. It hot starts no problem. As I said, I already have the carb kit, I presumed wrongly that choke parts would be included. So the choke/coil kit was ordered today after everyones helpful input on this site.

I'm sure I'll be picking your brains throughout the fall and winter!!!

Many thanks, Bill.

 

Hi Guys, can anyone tell what the number of my carb is please? 2GV, 2GC? As it looks nothing like carbs of those numbers.

Cheers, Bill.

 

Can't help on the carb but that is a nice looking car. Congrats on getting the pics up.

 

Thanks, it'll be even better when I can drive it!!!

Regards, Bill.

 

Delco #9 book calls it a 2GC.

auto trans. standard 7025056
auto trans. with air conditioning 7025057


bill

 

Well done Bill. Very impressive. I've decided to send it to "Carbs and More" in the US for complete reconditioning. I will lay the car up in the fall to fit a new steering box and a whole list of jobs.

Cheers, Bill.

 

Hello again Bill. My car doesn't have air con. I found the carb 7025056. It has a housing on the back above the choke housing which looks like a vacuum unit or something similar. If you look at the photos of my carb, it doesn't have it. Can you tell me the difference between the two. Are they the same serial number.

Many thanks, Bill.

 

I think it might be a R22GC. Found it on Rockauto.com.

Cheers, Bill.

 

those are stock photos, the carb. you get may or may not look like that. and seeing as how it's a mass rebuilt carb. it may or may not even be 100% correct for the application. the pic is of a later style 2G with the vacuum break mounted separately from the choke housing. your carb. has the vacuum break inside the choke housing, that was the original way they did it back then. i doubt the carb you get would have the correct model number on it, if it even had a model number on it. your carb. should have an aluminum model tag, but that got lost somewhere over the miles. later models had the number stamped into the bowl on the passenger side.


bill

 

Hi Bill....The fog clears a bit more.

Will a 3 litre BMW turbo diesel motor fit...........

Regards, Bill.

 

where do you want it installed? under the hood(bonnet)? in the trunk(boot)? hahahaha
sure! it'll fit!!

upon further investigation, the carb. they list for your application fits all of these:
OLDSMOBILE98(1965 - 1967)OLDSMOBILECUTLASS(1965 - 1967)OLDSMOBILEDELMONT 881967OLDSMOBILEDELTA 88(1965 - 1967)OLDSMOBILEDYNAMIC(1965 - 1966)OLDSMOBILEF85(1965 - 1967)OLDSMOBILEJETSTAR 88(1965 - 1966)OLDSMOBILESTARFIRE(1965 - 1966)OLDSMOBILEVISTA CRUISER(1965 - 1967)
so, it's a one-size-fits-all approach. not exactly right.


bill

 

Yep, point taken. I suppose looking from the other point of view, do I have the original/correct carb, is it jetted right etc. At the moment I have a carb with no choke and a motor running so rich you can only drive for 15 minutes because of the gas fumes. If I get a recon carb I figure I could at least jet it properly. I envy you guys in the US who have the options you do.

With the limited information I can get from here and obvious post/delivery issues it's a bit confusing deciding which way to proceed.

Much appreciate your help of course.

Kind regards, Bill.

 

best of luck to you!
glad to be of assistance.


bill

 

Hello again folks, another day, another list of questions:
Re: the warning Hot and Cold lights in the main instrument cluster. What part no/voltage are these. Also the hood and trunk lights don't work. The mercury switch part of of the hood switch is missing, haven't delved into the trunk switch yet. Is there a replacement part for the mercury switch. Lastly, is the VIN stamped into the frame/chassis on my '65 Jetstar 88

Many thanks, Bill.

 

Beautiful car! Welcome Bill.

 

Thanks, I think most of us here are called Bill!! My wife says "OLDMOANBILL"

Regards, Bill.

 

Re Timing: I have a brack with 3 points on the block and on the pulley is a machined out scallop. There does not appear to timing marks on this pulley, any ideas guys. New carb fitted, working well.

Cheers, Bill.

 

That is BRACKET

 

Bill, there should be a single groove on the edge of the balancer behind the lower pulley. That is the TDC timing mark. It helps with visibility if you clean it and add some white paint or chalk to the groove to make it "pop" when the timing light hits it. The 3 marks on the timing tab are for 0, 5, 10 degrees advance.

You can find pics and info in section 5-1 of the 1965 chassis service manual at the WildAboutCars website. http://wildaboutcarsonline.com/membe..._Section_5.pdf

 

Brilliant. Many thanks.

Bill.