Basic repairs - I think
#1
Basic repairs - I think
Just purchased 72 olds cutlass convertible after thorough inspection revealed few issues. Being shipped so won't see the car 4 about 10 days. Which is good because it's snowing as I write this.
I hadn't planned to do valve covers myself, but after reading posts here, I may try it. It's been a long time since I worked on my own car (78 and a 79 cutlass a lifetime ago) and that was just brakes, plugs, oil... The basics.
So as for the timing pan cover, which also leaks, along with noisy blower motor.. I'm thinking I'll leave that to a mechanic, ONCE I find a qualified one near Boston MA...
anY thoughts, helpful hints?
I hadn't planned to do valve covers myself, but after reading posts here, I may try it. It's been a long time since I worked on my own car (78 and a 79 cutlass a lifetime ago) and that was just brakes, plugs, oil... The basics.
So as for the timing pan cover, which also leaks, along with noisy blower motor.. I'm thinking I'll leave that to a mechanic, ONCE I find a qualified one near Boston MA...
anY thoughts, helpful hints?
#2
Welcome! If you did work on a '78 & '79, a '72 should be similar. Try to get an Oldsmobile Chassis Service Manual for 1972. It has a lot of helpful information. Also, if you have questions, do a search on the forum. If you can't find the answers, do a post. The forum has members with a wealth of knowledge & experience. All the tasks you mentioned are possible even if you are somewhat inexperienced. Take one at a time, proceed slowly & deliberately, and seek answers for your questions, if you have any.
![Smile](https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
#3
Welcome to the site, just to let you know in advance we like pictures. As far as the normal maintenance on your car, most is pretty easy. There is a wealth of info and experience on this site to help.
#4
#5
Thank you all for the warm welcome and the tips. I'll post pics ASAP. Just joined the AHPS ($25). Looking forward to getting my hands dirty.
One more potentially naive question: is it okay to use a modern jack, such as a scissor jack or Torin with this car?
One more potentially naive question: is it okay to use a modern jack, such as a scissor jack or Torin with this car?
#8
The Chassis Service Manual shows recommended jacking points, but in practice, over the past fifty or so years, the car has been jacked up on darn near every part of the frame you can imagine.
It's best to jack it at the "corners" of the frame, which are reinforced, roughly just ahead of the front door, and just behind the rear door, but the bumper jack that was included with the car jacked it from the bumper, it's fine to jack it anywhere on the rear axle, and you often need to jack it from a front suspension point, such as right under the spring pad of the lower control arm. I've also always jacked them under the skid plate part of the frame, under the oil pan without a problem.
You will also notice that the car has a lot more flex to it than a modern unibody car. If you jack it ahead of the front door, the nose will lag coming off the ground - they all do that.
- Eric
It's best to jack it at the "corners" of the frame, which are reinforced, roughly just ahead of the front door, and just behind the rear door, but the bumper jack that was included with the car jacked it from the bumper, it's fine to jack it anywhere on the rear axle, and you often need to jack it from a front suspension point, such as right under the spring pad of the lower control arm. I've also always jacked them under the skid plate part of the frame, under the oil pan without a problem.
You will also notice that the car has a lot more flex to it than a modern unibody car. If you jack it ahead of the front door, the nose will lag coming off the ground - they all do that.
- Eric
#11
What I will say is that you should always jack a convertible with the doors closed, and don't open them until all 4 wheels are back on the ground.
- Eric
edit: beat me to it, Steve!
#12
Thanks. Amazed by all the info and tips I've received in two days. AHPS is amazing, every diagram and spec right there.
The only thread I can't find is for replacing the timing cover gasket, and I'm not sure if that's because it's much less common to have to do, or because it's not an average "DIY" job. But, I'm going to wait to see how it actually looks before starting a post... I'm going to try to post pics today
The only thread I can't find is for replacing the timing cover gasket, and I'm not sure if that's because it's much less common to have to do, or because it's not an average "DIY" job. But, I'm going to wait to see how it actually looks before starting a post... I'm going to try to post pics today
#13
Timing cover:
• Remove stuff in the way.
• Remove balancer bolt with air wrench.
• Remove balancer with harmonic balancer puller.
• Remove timing cover, either with or without water pump attached (a good time to change water pump).
• Clean all gasket surfaces.
• Repaint whatever you want to, since it's all apart.
• Check, and then change timing chain and gears (there will always be something wrong with them). Use good quality parts, not cheap stuff.
• Reassemble with new gaskets and gasket sealer. Torque balancer bolt to at least 160 foot-pounds.
- Eric
• Remove stuff in the way.
• Remove balancer bolt with air wrench.
• Remove balancer with harmonic balancer puller.
• Remove timing cover, either with or without water pump attached (a good time to change water pump).
• Clean all gasket surfaces.
• Repaint whatever you want to, since it's all apart.
• Check, and then change timing chain and gears (there will always be something wrong with them). Use good quality parts, not cheap stuff.
• Reassemble with new gaskets and gasket sealer. Torque balancer bolt to at least 160 foot-pounds.
- Eric
#14
Just thought I'd mention that I finally added pics, with new coil springs and wheels. Wasn't sure if who would care, or where to post, but a few people did suggest pics when I first joined, so....
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