Al2011

Hi everyone, I've been reading good stuff from this site for the last few months and finally joined. I've learned a whole bunch from reading here and once I'm all the way ready I'm going to rebuild my own motor (350 olds # matching w 7a heads, 3 speed trans & don't know rear end gear ratio) 72 cutlass S. At first I was going to have a mechanic do it but every mechanic I talk to says it's just like a Chevy rebuild and the people here say otherwise. Other mechanics say why not put a Chevy motor in it since the Olds isn't popular and not powerfull. Autozone told me to put Chevy Vortec heads for more power. If it wasn't for this site I probably would believe everything these idiots are telling me.

My rebuild will be stock except for a better cam (still learning so don't know which one), higher compression pistons since I got the 28cc dish *(must be streetable but if compression is higher than expected oh well there's a race track close to my house), doubleroller timing set, edelbrock RPM manifold , edelbrock 750 cfm carb (still not sure which one), Also the heads will be stock rebuilt with BBO valves, and mild port if I can afford it (still don't know the cost, if you know please let me know how $).

When buying pistons (after I know my bore) will all olds 350 pistons work on the same stock rods? Also will the engine need to be balanced? I'm not going to race the car, it will only be a street car but I want it to sound like a beast and run like one. Once I can get any knowledge you can give me I will purchase a set of either flat tops or maybe from 6cc to 14 cc dished. What do I need to know, please help for piston upgrade? 2nd question is what do I need to know or do before taking the block and heads to the machinist. I can't find a olds machinist around here (in Phoenix az) they all do Chevys, should I stay away from them. If anyone knows an olds expert machine shop let me know.. Sorry for the long post..

Jamesbo

Welcome aboard

Glad you joined us.

Oldsguy

Welcome to CO. glad you are here.

dsolomon

I would make sure the machine shop is familar with Olds valve train geometry. Going thru the 350 I am doing, I found that valves have to be ground after a valve job so that they are all the same length. The person who built mine, must not have know that as each was a different length. Enough so that a few lifters would not pre-load with stock push rods.
As an option, you could remove the stock rockers and install adjustable rockers the Comp sells. Then it beomes a non-issue.
I am originally a chevy guy and with that exception and a few relocated components, a GM engine build is a GM engine build.

Al2011

Are those roller rockers or stock style adjustable rockers?

dsolomon

I bought the 1441-KIT which have the roller tip

Al2011

Thanks for the good help and advice I really need it. If I buy the Comp Cam 1441-KIT will I need any additional machine work? Will they work with stock style lifters and cam?

dsolomon

If you are getting the heads done by an shop with Oldsmobile experience then I would use the stock valve train. It works great if all they valves are ground. I can't imagine that the cost to level them would be more than this kit. I had heads that were already done and it would have cost more to pull them apart plus there was a possibility that I would need longer pushrods.
That being said, if the rockers and pushrods need to be replaced then the 1441-KIT probably makes sense.

No other machine work is required. The studs go in the holes that the rocker bolts came out of. Install the lifters and rods, tighten to zero lash and you should be good to go.

Al2011

Thanks again, youve been very helpfull , I have one last question for now. If I mixed up my lifter rods will I need new ones?

dsolomon

I don't see a problem with that. Just verify that none are bent.
If you go with the 1441-KIT they are included.

hamm36

I would keep looking for a good machine shop. One good question to ask is, "How are the valves set on a 350 Oldsmobile (your motor)?" If they can not answer that move on. You now know the correct/only answer to that. If they answer correct them move to the hard questions. "What all needs to be on the motor when balancing it?" Ans: Flywheel to harmonic balancer. Ask them, "Is it hydraulic, or solid lifter?" Stuff like that, one thing they will ask you; How are you going to drive the car? And how much money do you want to spend? So be ready, daily driver? Weekend warrior? Show and Go? 2000+ If you want it done right. You might find it best to let them order the parts, so you do not spend time looking here and there, etc.. I was lucky, my guy told me strate, " I make money on the machine work, not the parts." It might have been some mark up, but I did not spend any time on looking, I am very happy with the motor work.
Don't wast a new motor with old parts like push rods, get new.

Al2011

Thank's for the advice, can you make a a list of questions and answers to ask please? Also are there specific questions and answers for the block, please let me know.