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68 350 2 barrel won't start (no spark @ cylinder)s)

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Old March 23rd, 2014, 09:07 AM
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68 350 2 barrel won't start (no spark @ cylinder)s)

Well, again I have an issue with this olds. I have NO SPARK @ the cylinders! Replaced the rotor, cap, wires, plugs, coil, condensers, the points and plugs. Went to the trouble of swapping out the coil.
Set the timing and turned the key.. Yep, just turns over with NO SPARK to the cylinders.
We checked the battery, the connections and the grounds which all seem fine.
Even took the time to revisit the fuse box area.

Anyone have any suggestions what so ever would help.

Thanks
Great Dane
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Old March 23rd, 2014, 09:11 AM
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Maybe you have a broken wire or something is connected very securely I feel ya on the pain of no spark took forever to figure out the problem on my dads apparently it was the ignition switch check that
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Old March 23rd, 2014, 09:14 AM
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do you have power at the coil?
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Old March 23rd, 2014, 09:15 AM
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Yea if you don't have power at the coil my money is on the ignition switch which for you would be a cheap fix
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Old March 23rd, 2014, 09:18 AM
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Thanks, will check that next. Peace
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Old March 23rd, 2014, 09:27 AM
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How did you set the timing with no spark? See if you have 12v at the coil+ both with the key on and cranking. Did you set the gap on your points to .016?
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Old March 23rd, 2014, 09:34 AM
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Have you considered troubleshooting?

You can spend a lot of time and money to replace a lot of good parts, or you can figure out what's wrong and just fix that.

You may wish to start here.

- Eric
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Old March 23rd, 2014, 09:41 AM
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Originally Posted by MDchanic
Have you considered troubleshooting?

You can spend a lot of time and money to replace a lot of good parts, or you can figure out what's wrong and just fix that.

You may wish to start here.

- Eric
DING DING DING

We have a winner. First, if the car ran before the parts were replaced, it is HIGHLY unlikely that the previously-functional ignition switch suddenly went bad. The most likely cause is something that you replaced. As Eric noted, start with the basic troubleshooting. Is there power at the coil? Are the points properly gapped? Also, check for spark at the coil wire to determine if the problem is at the distributor or the coil.
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Old March 23rd, 2014, 09:52 AM
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Originally Posted by joe_padavano
DING DING DING

We have a winner. First, if the car ran before the parts were replaced, it is HIGHLY unlikely that the previously-functional ignition switch suddenly went bad. The most likely cause is something that you replaced. As Eric noted, start with the basic troubleshooting. Is there power at the coil? Are the points properly gapped? Also, check for spark at the coil wire to determine if the problem is at the distributor or the coil.
I see your point but if he replaced parts more than likely as o have come to find out on older cars another problem makes itself known that's why I'm saying the switch
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Old March 23rd, 2014, 10:01 AM
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Originally Posted by billmerbach
I see your point but if he replaced parts more than likely as o have come to find out on older cars another problem makes itself known that's why I'm saying the switch
Bill, as you will discover, while it is important to keep an open mind to the crazy problem that comes out of left field, because they DO happen, the first rule of new problems is, "Check whatever you f___ed with last!"

If you follow it, you will be right more often than you are wrong.

- Eric
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Old March 23rd, 2014, 10:03 AM
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Originally Posted by MDchanic
Bill, as you will discover, while it is important to keep an open mind to the crazy problem that comes out of left field, because they DO happen, the first rule of new problems is, "Check whatever you f___ed with last!"

If you follow it, you will be right more often than you are wrong.

- Eric
I agree so I guess the question we should ask the OP is what he messed with last and why
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Old March 23rd, 2014, 10:08 AM
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Originally Posted by gdane1949
Well, again I have an issue with this olds. I have NO SPARK @ the cylinders! Replaced the rotor, cap, wires, plugs, coil, condensers, the points and plugs. Went to the trouble of swapping out the coil.
Set the timing and turned the key.. Yep, just turns over with NO SPARK to the cylinders.
We checked the battery, the connections and the grounds which all seem fine.
Even took the time to revisit the fuse box area.

Anyone have any suggestions what so ever would help.

Thanks
Great Dane

He stated what he did last in his first post Bill.
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Old March 23rd, 2014, 10:09 AM
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I will follow back as things were replaced. Thanks and please try NOT to argue, just needed some input here.
Yea everything worked and I probably should have left it alone but I was just upgrading components that looked pretty sad and surface rusted from sitting in some one's sea side garage for a couple of years.
My fault.... but my passion.
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Old March 23rd, 2014, 10:17 AM
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Originally Posted by oldcutlass
He stated what he did last in his first post Bill.
By all means OP not starting an argument and my bad oldcutlass I thought he did more than than what I read. I'll shut up now
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Old March 23rd, 2014, 10:25 AM
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No arguments, Bill is learning also. We were just pointing some things out to him. Points ignition systems are the easiest to troubleshoot imo, there are a distinct sequence of events.
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Old March 23rd, 2014, 10:28 AM
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Ahhhh I missed that part the points my dads has N electronic dist so its just a plug in piece so my suggestion may not be correct I apologize
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Old March 23rd, 2014, 10:34 AM
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Actually Bill there is a remote chance the ignition switch is responsible, the voltage tests at the coil can point to troubleshooting in that direction.
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Old March 23rd, 2014, 10:43 AM
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Ok I just know I had the same troubles did the same thing and finally found out the ignition switch had went bad it had no clicks to it all it did was slide. That was from all the constant turning the key AMD trying to get it to crank
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Old March 23rd, 2014, 11:06 AM
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Yea it turns over great...but I think everyone is pointing back to that coil. I put the old one back in and same thing ...NO SPARK. Has to be that or the points gap just isn't right, though we did gauge it.
I am taking off for NYC now but will look back for comments. My buddy is over there working on it right now. He is an Olds guy true and true with a 1970 that he built from the ground up. It is driving him NUTS!! Lol. Take care and thanks for the info.
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Old March 23rd, 2014, 11:10 AM
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My 68 ragtop

IMAG0305(2).jpg This is what I have been restoring..
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Old March 23rd, 2014, 11:14 AM
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If there is power both in the start and run key positions at the coil, I'd say its in the distributor.
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Old March 23rd, 2014, 11:42 AM
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In the event that there is absolutely nothing obvious that pops up as the culprit, follow the troubleshooting instructions that I posted in the link above.
They are simple and comprehensive.

- Eric
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Old March 23rd, 2014, 03:49 PM
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Well I figured it out,well my 442 bud did. I hooked up the negative wire from the distributor to the coil wrong. Thanks again for your suggestions. Kick myself for that one
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Old March 23rd, 2014, 03:51 PM
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Well at least you got it fixed
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Old March 23rd, 2014, 03:56 PM
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It's always the last thing you messed with...

Glad you found it!

- Eric
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Old March 23rd, 2014, 04:17 PM
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Well done.
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