68 350 2 barrel won't start (no spark @ cylinder)s)
#1
68 350 2 barrel won't start (no spark @ cylinder)s)
Well, again I have an issue with this olds. I have NO SPARK @ the cylinders! Replaced the rotor, cap, wires, plugs, coil, condensers, the points and plugs. Went to the trouble of swapping out the coil.
Set the timing and turned the key.. Yep, just turns over with NO SPARK to the cylinders.
We checked the battery, the connections and the grounds which all seem fine.
Even took the time to revisit the fuse box area.
Anyone have any suggestions what so ever would help.
Thanks
Great Dane
Set the timing and turned the key.. Yep, just turns over with NO SPARK to the cylinders.
We checked the battery, the connections and the grounds which all seem fine.
Even took the time to revisit the fuse box area.
Anyone have any suggestions what so ever would help.
Thanks
Great Dane
#2
Maybe you have a broken wire or something is connected very securely I feel ya on the pain of no spark took forever to figure out the problem on my dads apparently it was the ignition switch check that
#8
Have you considered troubleshooting?
You can spend a lot of time and money to replace a lot of good parts, or you can figure out what's wrong and just fix that.
You may wish to start here.
- Eric
You can spend a lot of time and money to replace a lot of good parts, or you can figure out what's wrong and just fix that.
You may wish to start here.
- Eric
We have a winner. First, if the car ran before the parts were replaced, it is HIGHLY unlikely that the previously-functional ignition switch suddenly went bad. The most likely cause is something that you replaced. As Eric noted, start with the basic troubleshooting. Is there power at the coil? Are the points properly gapped? Also, check for spark at the coil wire to determine if the problem is at the distributor or the coil.
#9
DING DING DING
We have a winner. First, if the car ran before the parts were replaced, it is HIGHLY unlikely that the previously-functional ignition switch suddenly went bad. The most likely cause is something that you replaced. As Eric noted, start with the basic troubleshooting. Is there power at the coil? Are the points properly gapped? Also, check for spark at the coil wire to determine if the problem is at the distributor or the coil.
We have a winner. First, if the car ran before the parts were replaced, it is HIGHLY unlikely that the previously-functional ignition switch suddenly went bad. The most likely cause is something that you replaced. As Eric noted, start with the basic troubleshooting. Is there power at the coil? Are the points properly gapped? Also, check for spark at the coil wire to determine if the problem is at the distributor or the coil.
#10
If you follow it, you will be right more often than you are wrong.
- Eric
#11
Bill, as you will discover, while it is important to keep an open mind to the crazy problem that comes out of left field, because they DO happen, the first rule of new problems is, "Check whatever you f___ed with last!"
If you follow it, you will be right more often than you are wrong.
- Eric
If you follow it, you will be right more often than you are wrong.
- Eric
#12
Well, again I have an issue with this olds. I have NO SPARK @ the cylinders! Replaced the rotor, cap, wires, plugs, coil, condensers, the points and plugs. Went to the trouble of swapping out the coil.
Set the timing and turned the key.. Yep, just turns over with NO SPARK to the cylinders.
We checked the battery, the connections and the grounds which all seem fine.
Even took the time to revisit the fuse box area.
Anyone have any suggestions what so ever would help.
Thanks
Great Dane
Set the timing and turned the key.. Yep, just turns over with NO SPARK to the cylinders.
We checked the battery, the connections and the grounds which all seem fine.
Even took the time to revisit the fuse box area.
Anyone have any suggestions what so ever would help.
Thanks
Great Dane
He stated what he did last in his first post Bill.
#13
I will follow back as things were replaced. Thanks and please try NOT to argue, just needed some input here.
Yea everything worked and I probably should have left it alone but I was just upgrading components that looked pretty sad and surface rusted from sitting in some one's sea side garage for a couple of years.
My fault.... but my passion.
Yea everything worked and I probably should have left it alone but I was just upgrading components that looked pretty sad and surface rusted from sitting in some one's sea side garage for a couple of years.
My fault.... but my passion.
#14
#18
Ok I just know I had the same troubles did the same thing and finally found out the ignition switch had went bad it had no clicks to it all it did was slide. That was from all the constant turning the key AMD trying to get it to crank
#19
Yea it turns over great...but I think everyone is pointing back to that coil. I put the old one back in and same thing ...NO SPARK. Has to be that or the points gap just isn't right, though we did gauge it.
I am taking off for NYC now but will look back for comments. My buddy is over there working on it right now. He is an Olds guy true and true with a 1970 that he built from the ground up. It is driving him NUTS!! Lol. Take care and thanks for the info.
I am taking off for NYC now but will look back for comments. My buddy is over there working on it right now. He is an Olds guy true and true with a 1970 that he built from the ground up. It is driving him NUTS!! Lol. Take care and thanks for the info.
#20
#22
In the event that there is absolutely nothing obvious that pops up as the culprit, follow the troubleshooting instructions that I posted in the link above.
They are simple and comprehensive.
- Eric
They are simple and comprehensive.
- Eric
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