Okay I'm stumped. 46 Olds straight 6. I have blue spark, fuel getting to carb, and air, but it won't start. It was starting right up just fine then all the sudden it wouldn't anymore. I even drove it around the neighborhood this last weekend a few times. Nothing sounds different at all, still turns over just like it did when it started. Any ideas on what I should look for or what it might be? Was planning on getting the hydramatic trans fixed this weekend, but I need to get this figured out first. Thanks!

I confess I'm not the best mechanic. This is the car I'm learning on. Thank you for your patience. =)

 

Air, fuel, and spark at the right time. Does it attempt to start at all, backfires, anything? Is the choke working? What about trying some starting fluid?

 

Yes it does attempt to start. Actually sounds the same as before. I've tried starter fluid and gas. Each time it will almost start up, but then go back to just turning over.

"At the right time" I don't know...

 

You may have to turn the distributor one way or another while your cranking. Sounds like the timing is a bit off. Starting fluid should have started it in an instant.

 

I will try that tomorrow evening after work and let ya know how it goes. Keeping my fingers crossed. Thanks!

 

It appears that the timing is off, but, if it was starting and driving just fine, then I would look into the timing set, as it may have jumped the timing, indicating a worn timing set.

 

If you have a good spark at the spark plug and the carburetor is delivering fuel to the manifold, then I agree with the others. Either the ignition timing is off and/or the valve timing is off. Check the distributor position and the timing chain if it has one.

 

Thanks guys, yesterday was my day for learning all about distributors. A few days ago I installed new condenser, rotor, contact, and cap. My A.D.D. got me in trouble. I just figured you unscrew the old ones and screw the new ones in, no adjustment needed. I confess I didn't read up on it. Yesterday as I researched online I learned about the specific gap needed in order for the contact to work properly. YIKES! Borrowed my neighbors (Feeler gauges?) and gapped it at .018. Started right up!

Did I mention my A.D.D.? Well before I did all that, I marked the dist. and pulled the dang thing out. For really no other reason, but I had never seen one for myself. To make matters more confusing for myself, there was no "gear/teeth" on the end. Just about every picture I think I looked at of a dist. online has teeth! Not mine. I thought maybe it came off and was stuck inside. I honestly wanted somebody to knock my own teeth out for touching it. I FINALLY realized that my dist. in fact didn't have gear/teeth to begin with. Why? I dunno that part yet. Just has a flat 2 sided end resembling a chisel or paddle. What I do know is when it starts up now it runs rough. I have some adjusting AND learning to do on setting the timing now. I'm fairly confident that my original problem was setting the gap correctly on the contact. It didn't start until I adjusted the gap. If I would've left everything else alone before that, I have a feeling i'd be moving on to the next challenge. Big lesson learned.
Not upset about it though. I know a little more about it today than yesterday and that's cool with me.

Any advice as I tackle this today? Thanks

 

Get a chassis service manual. Read the applicable section before and during repairs. Sometimes I have to read it multiple times. A lot of older engines had a slotted distributor. Its fun to learn new things, just go slow, only make one change then test so you know if it gets better or you make it worse.

 

I can second the suggestion about the manual. The best investment I have ever made for any cars I've owned is the manufacturer's service literature. If you intend to keep the vehicle, get the book(s). It is a wonderful learning tool and will save you from many errors. Sometime it's called a shop book; sometime "they" separate the chassis and the body in two (or more) books. Sometime automatic transmissions are a book by itself. The one covering the chassis will be the most useful. Sometime it is hard to find the "original" books for older models. Some book sellers have reproduced them on CD. This is just as good as long as it is comprehensive. There are merchants dedicated to automotive literature; and you can always look on eBay.

 

Most of our cars are old. Yours is real old and happens to be the same age I am. Finding a shop manual is the first thing to do. It is the bible for your car.I like you car. Cool.

 

For best results you should set those points with a dwell meter, although I've set them with a match book cover and ran them for a long time before I redid them correctly. Also now would be a good time to learn to use a timing light if the car is running rough and you have played with the distributor...Lost in the fifties.... Tedd

 

Nice Car. Found a link that might be helpfull. Has some 1946 Olds manuals listed.

http://www.faxonautoliterature.com/S...+manual&c=4936

 

Don't forget the other important part of the equation and that is compression. Fuel and spark are useless without it.

 

Tedd:

I have never set internal adjustment point with a dwell meter. How the heck do you do that? I have heard about the matchbook for years and you confirmed it works. I always used a feeler gage and set them at 16 thousandths.

 

You are correct, I have a windowed distributor cap (56 I think) and forgot about that as I made the post. I only use a match book cover when I have fried the points by accidentally leaving the key on and used the spare set of used points that I always carry in the glove box for that very problem....Tedd

 

Just because a cap does not have a window does not mean you can't set the dwell with a meter. It just takes a bit longer.