65 Drop Top
August 17th, 2009, 03:35 PM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 7
65 Drop Top
I'm a mechanic and just bought a 1965 Dynamic 88 convertible. It's alittle soft but thats OK, I got it cheap and my wife loves it. The speedometer cable just broke. This one seems hard to find (goes to the LF hub). Any help on where I could find one?
August 17th, 2009, 05:39 PM
#3
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Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: Rathdrum, Idano
Posts: 9,127
Welcome to CO
Try http://www.fusick.com/ for the cable. Sorry I can't help you with your top. someone will chime in
August 17th, 2009, 08:38 PM
#5
2 '66 98's
Join Date: Aug 2008
Location: central New Jersey
Posts: 489
The reservoir is part of the motor assembly. There is either a metal screw in plug or a rubber plug on the end of the unit. You can tell if the fluid is low by looking at the lines to the cylinders as you are operating the system. Large air bubbles will tell the tale. Just don't overfill the system.
Where are you located?? I have a nice used speedo cable removed from a 45,000 mile car when Cruise Control was added. I am in New Jersey. Bruce
Where are you located?? I have a nice used speedo cable removed from a 45,000 mile car when Cruise Control was added. I am in New Jersey. Bruce
August 18th, 2009, 04:30 AM
#6
Past Administrator
Join Date: May 2004
Location: Rural Waxahachie Texas
Posts: 10,068
My '69 Delta had the same speedo cable set up, it had the cable and the hub cover but I know the covers are sometimes hard to find. Never thought about what I would do if the cable broke. Welcome to CO and hope you find one.
August 18th, 2009, 05:09 AM
#7
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 7
My cable broke right in the middle, hub cover is OK. I had to cut it near the spindle so I could unscrew it. It felt like it had never been taken apart. I'm located in wisconsin.
Let me know what you want for the cable.
Whats the procedure to fill the motor to prevent overfilling?
Let me know what you want for the cable.
Whats the procedure to fill the motor to prevent overfilling?
hey
August 18th, 2009, 05:58 PM
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 69
convertible top fill & bleed
There are several good filling procedure guides available at the vendor sites. I like the one from Hydro-E-lectric (www.hydroe.com) if the system is empty, or new ram cylinders have been installed. It is located under "Tips" at their website.
If the system is merely low, I have used this procedure very successfully on my '66 Cutlass. It will properly replenish the fluid level and purge the system of air. Start with the top UP.
1) find the fill plug on the reservoir end of the motor ( in the trunk ) and remove it. It may be threaded in or a rubber plug. Have a rag handy, even though nothing may come out.
2) using a length of tubing (20"-30" give or take) with a diameter that tightly fits into the plug opening, place one end snugly 1/2"-1" into the opening, and the other into a container of the appropriate fluid - below the fluid level - you do not want to suck air at any time.
3) operate the top up and down thru several cycles, using a helper if necessary to raise the top. If you hear lots of whining and gurgling from the pump, you have air in the system, and it will eventually purge or bubble out into the container of topping up fluid. You do not want a lid on the topping up container - just don't dump it over.
So, tight fit at the plug opening, loose fit at the container end. Watch the level in the topping up container and don't let it run out - ie., don't suck air. Absent any leaks in the system, operating the top up and down will purge the air out, draw fluid in to replace the air, the sound level will become quieter, and there will be less gurgling. This may take 2 cycles, or 6 cycles. Just listen and use judgement. Take your time, and don't overheat the pump motor. You should probably have the car outdoors and running to make sure you have a full 12+ volts to the motor. You can stop and rest at any point as long as the top is full up or full down - do NOT remove the tubing until finished (next step).
4) IMPORTANT !!! When you believe your system is bled sufficiently, LOWER the top to the full DOWN position. Have the plug and a rag ready, remove the tightly fitting filling hose, and insert the plug. Move right along, but there should be very little leakage. The location of the fill hole is set up to allow an air space to remain in the reservoir. The reservoir must not be overfilled to prevent blowing seals or fittings. Ending this process with the top DOWN is the correct procedure.
5) Once the plug is back in, you can operate the top at will. It should be properly filled, and free of excess air.
================================================== =====
I do not know what fluid is in your system - but whatever it is - stay with the same ! Some systems used non-silicone brake fluid, some used trans fluid, some used hydraulic oil (like jack oil). They all smell and look different, you should make sure which you have before adding any !
For my '66 Cutlass, it was auto trans fluid (Dexron).
If the system is merely low, I have used this procedure very successfully on my '66 Cutlass. It will properly replenish the fluid level and purge the system of air. Start with the top UP.
1) find the fill plug on the reservoir end of the motor ( in the trunk ) and remove it. It may be threaded in or a rubber plug. Have a rag handy, even though nothing may come out.
2) using a length of tubing (20"-30" give or take) with a diameter that tightly fits into the plug opening, place one end snugly 1/2"-1" into the opening, and the other into a container of the appropriate fluid - below the fluid level - you do not want to suck air at any time.
3) operate the top up and down thru several cycles, using a helper if necessary to raise the top. If you hear lots of whining and gurgling from the pump, you have air in the system, and it will eventually purge or bubble out into the container of topping up fluid. You do not want a lid on the topping up container - just don't dump it over.
So, tight fit at the plug opening, loose fit at the container end. Watch the level in the topping up container and don't let it run out - ie., don't suck air. Absent any leaks in the system, operating the top up and down will purge the air out, draw fluid in to replace the air, the sound level will become quieter, and there will be less gurgling. This may take 2 cycles, or 6 cycles. Just listen and use judgement. Take your time, and don't overheat the pump motor. You should probably have the car outdoors and running to make sure you have a full 12+ volts to the motor. You can stop and rest at any point as long as the top is full up or full down - do NOT remove the tubing until finished (next step).
4) IMPORTANT !!! When you believe your system is bled sufficiently, LOWER the top to the full DOWN position. Have the plug and a rag ready, remove the tightly fitting filling hose, and insert the plug. Move right along, but there should be very little leakage. The location of the fill hole is set up to allow an air space to remain in the reservoir. The reservoir must not be overfilled to prevent blowing seals or fittings. Ending this process with the top DOWN is the correct procedure.
5) Once the plug is back in, you can operate the top at will. It should be properly filled, and free of excess air.
================================================== =====
I do not know what fluid is in your system - but whatever it is - stay with the same ! Some systems used non-silicone brake fluid, some used trans fluid, some used hydraulic oil (like jack oil). They all smell and look different, you should make sure which you have before adding any !
For my '66 Cutlass, it was auto trans fluid (Dexron).
August 19th, 2009, 07:44 AM
#10
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 7
I'll give this a try as soon I can pry the car away from my wife! The top has been down for over a month now, but sooner or later she will judge the weather wrong and will need to put it up on her own.
Thanks!
Thanks!
August 19th, 2009, 09:34 AM
#12
Registered User
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Northern California
Posts: 1,708
Power Top servicing
The power top goes up/down using a hydraulic motor located behind the rear seat. You'll see a big cut out in the metal wall that's behind the seat. If you have a top well cover (originally canvas) the motor's beneath it. Otherwise, you'll probably just see it by looking down in top well.
The motor's held in by a set of three rubber bushings - giant cylindrical things. The just pull free if you still have yours in there. If not, it could be held in place by most anything. I've used zip ties as necessary. Anyway, there are 2 sets of hydraulic lines - one for upward movement, one for down. These are the white plastic lines with very soft brass fittings on the end. They're expensive to replace so remove them softly & slowly.
The electrical connector is just a generic two wire affair, but it's big guage - maybe 10 or so since the motor draws heavy amps. I think there's probably a ground too, but I can't remember.
Your goal is to refill the top motor's fluid reservoir. It's usually filled with either brake fluid or ATF. Basically do a flush/fill process like you would for bleeding brakes and you're done. This involves a long vacuum hose, a big jar filled with the right fluid (don't mix) and running the top up & down a bunch of times until you have no more bubbles in the system. Then put the rubber plug back in the reservoir and things should be fine.
The motor's held in by a set of three rubber bushings - giant cylindrical things. The just pull free if you still have yours in there. If not, it could be held in place by most anything. I've used zip ties as necessary. Anyway, there are 2 sets of hydraulic lines - one for upward movement, one for down. These are the white plastic lines with very soft brass fittings on the end. They're expensive to replace so remove them softly & slowly.
The electrical connector is just a generic two wire affair, but it's big guage - maybe 10 or so since the motor draws heavy amps. I think there's probably a ground too, but I can't remember.
Your goal is to refill the top motor's fluid reservoir. It's usually filled with either brake fluid or ATF. Basically do a flush/fill process like you would for bleeding brakes and you're done. This involves a long vacuum hose, a big jar filled with the right fluid (don't mix) and running the top up & down a bunch of times until you have no more bubbles in the system. Then put the rubber plug back in the reservoir and things should be fine.
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