My Name is Russ. I purchased a 1969 Cutlass S back in 1979. It was a little old lady from Pasadena type of purchase. It obviously was a 10 year old car but only had 32,000 on it. Paint was faded from sitting in the sun. I was 18 years old. I borrowed $500 from my Grandma and purchased it. I've never really been into cars. It was just an 10 year old vehicle to get me around. I buffed the paint back to life and tossed on some MT wheels and a set of larger 50's on the back and 70's on the front. I would race it on Woodward Ave in Detroit. It was pretty fast for a 2bbl carb. I was knocking out the new Trans Ams with (6.6L ?). Loved cruising in it. I was still too stupid to realize what I had.
I joined the Air Force in 1982 so I sold the car. Now here I am 43 years later wanting another. I could go out and buy a shiny one but then you don't know what's under the paint. So I decided to go to a project car. Something with good bones that I could possibly get running right away and then spend the next 18 months (and $15,000) upgrading. I found this one for $3500 and am having it delivered this week. I will replace the entire fuel system 100%, replace the entire braking system (also change to disc) from beginning to end (including the lines), replace the entire cooling system, suspension, complete interior (and change it to black). I'll do any body repair needed and paint it. I'll be doing all the work myself. The one thing I am hoping is the engine and tranny are good. Otherwise I'll need to drop another $7000 to replace those.
I'm not an auto mechanic. I am an industrial mechanic. I have no concerns about what lays ahead of me. I have painted vehicles before and almost always do my own repairs. I can weld and have all the tools I need (accept a lift or engine hoist). My question to you all; Do you have any serious advice or recommendations to give me? Recommended places for parts?

 

Welcome to the site, sounds like a plan.

 

Be ready to blow past your budget depending on what you find and decisions you make through the process. The common "suggestion" is to double your budget...but hopefully you're able to keep within it!

There are many sources for parts, the most common ones I've used have been (in no particular order) OPGI, Fusick, The Parts Place, InLine Tube, Summit, Lectric Ltd and Rock Auto. I also used Olds Parts for one order and didn't have any issues apart from slow shipping and communication but others appear to have had problems. I found some of them carried the same parts (same aftermarket manufacturer) while others differed in source, and prices could vary dramatically. Often one would be out of stock while another supplier had plenty available. It definitely pays to shop around.

I sourced my rear end parts from JD Race (monzaz on this forum) and engine parts from Bernard Mondello Racing Enterprises (not to be confused with Mondello Performance). The majority of my interior (also switched from white bench seat to black bucket seat interior) came from Legendary. PUI and Distinctive are usually cheaper price but may come with a quality trade off.

Good luck, hope to see photos of your progress!

 

Welcome and thank you for your service to the Country.

An EGR valve is visible in the engine picture, this means the intake manifold isn't original. EGR started in '73, someone may have changed it to get a 4bbl. If OLDSMOBILE is in raised letters on the valve covers that was '73 only.

About replacing parts remember that many of the parts available today are substandard quality compared to the original parts. If some of the parts are original and in good shape it is often better to rebuild them vs. replace, proceed with thought when deciding to replace everything. If the alternator and starter are original have yours rebuilt locally and don't do an exchange.

Post a picture of the engine with the air cleaner removed if you want, we can tell more about the carb and distributor.

What transmission is in the car? Is it PRNDSL? Hopefully yes as it would have left the factory with a TH350.

You've joined an awesome site, ask questions and keep us up to date with the progress.

 

Awesome. Thank for the response and information. I'm looking forward to many hours of being on these sites to see what they have to offer.

 

I am NOT a true car expert. I also thought that the carb was a 4bbl, which meant the intake was not original but, I was basing my suspicions on the air filter. It's not logical to see that air cleaner on a 2bbl. I also noticed the distributor cap is different than my old cutlass. I will send more pics once the vehicle arrives later this week. I'm up in NW Minnesota. The vehicle is coming from Oklahoma City, OK. I do not know if the original trans is in it still. I was assuming that is is the TH350. That is what I had in my original Cutlass. I don't know if that is a good transmission or not, but I can tell you that I beat the living crap out of it when I was a kid and it handled everything flawlessly (i.e. neutral slams, power braking, etc).
The problem I have is the size of my community. There isn't a place withing 100 miles that I would even consider using to rebuild anything I have let alone an alternator or starter. I will almost certainly have to replace them and then maybe I can ship them out to someplace in the U.S. that would know what they are doing.

 

TH350 is a great transmission. It could be a 2 speed, not terrible but not a TH350. From the pics I think an HEI GM distributor is visible.

Re: the starter and alternator there is an excellent private rebuilder in central NJ, if needed I can get the info, he will ship. There are forum members that can do the rebuilding also if it's needed and they are probably a lot closer.

 

Thanks S.B. Once I do my impersonation of the motor trend show "Roadworthy Rescue" and get the Cutlass to fire up, I can see where my priorities lay. No one knows how long this vehicle has been sitting or when it last ran. The guy I purchased it from was going to restore it but he also has a firebird that he rather work on so sold me the Cutlass to get money for the Firebird. It didn't even have keys until I sent a locksmith to the sellers house yesterday to pick the ignition and make a couple of keys. I want to be able to safely drive this to Detroit for the Woodward Dream Cruise they have each year. So I am not taking any chances with anything. I'll gladly send my starter and alternator to the guy in N.J. to have them professionally rebuilt.

 

So if this turns out to be from a 73' then would I still need to use a lead additive? When did they change the valve seals to handle unleaded?

 

In 1970 IIRC the seats were induction hardened ( thanks JoeP) so if original and not ground away it should still be hardened. Even if it isn't hardened I wouldn't add lead substitute for normal driving. Unleaded gas has been used since the '60's and sold as Amoco Premium, I've not seen problems with it's use

 

It's fun...addictive...and expensive :-D I used a spreadsheet to avoid overwhelming my grey matter! (brain, not my hair...)

My project went from a "simple" engine/transmission/rear end and interior" swap with parts I had, to a frame off complete system upgrade, and the more I browsed those catalogues, the more parts I found I "needed"!

No regerts...nearing the end of a 3.5 year resto now.

 

Actually that was 1971-up

 

I am about the most organized person you'll ever meet. I cannot believe I hadn't considered making a spreadsheet. That is brilliant. I'll make one today. I would LOVE to do a frame-off restoration. I just do not have the space and stands available to me to do something like that. Here in the north, I have about 5 months of good weather. When winter hits, you can't be outside (it's -36 wind chill right now). That's why when I purchased this car, I had to be sure the frame was in solid condition. I can replace a body panel or a floor panel in need be. I cannot replace a frame.

 

Just remember, it's a Cutlass. You don't want to spend $40+k to wind up with a beautiful $25k car.

 

It certainly helps keep sources, prices and availability for each part straight in your head! Additionally it (along with receipts) can prove helpful when trying to recall what parts you may have ordered and are now sitting on the shelves waiting for installation...if the work takes a couple years the fog of time can sometimes obscure the memory.

It's also a good place to organize and store links to informational posts, pages and videos you may want to refer back to when performing assorted tasks.

 

It'll be worth whatever I put into it. If I can do it on the cheap, then that would be awesome. BUT, if I put more into it that it's worth retail, that's ok. I'm not selling it and it is worth it to me. It'll be my kids problem to deal with after I am gone.

 

From one Russ, to another Russ, welcome!
I've only been on the forum for about a year and the guys, and the info that they share, are incredible!

 

Get yourself a Chassis Service Manual. It covers repair procedure for everything on your Cutlass.

Avoid the reprints and look for an original Oldsmobile issued copy. The original copies are of superior quality. Original copies also have the color wiring diagrams and color transmission circuit diagrams. Here's a photo of what the color wiring diagrams look like. This is the book that you'll want if you are doing electrical work.

Look in the Miscellaneous Classified section of this forum; you'll certainly find a 1969 Service Manual there.

 

Welcome aboard Russ! Thanks for your service! Looks like it probably has a later year motor, not necessarily a bad thing but most probably a very low compression motor compared to what was in there originally. Good luck with your project! There's a wealth of knowledge on this site; don't be afraid to use the search function when necessary!

 

Excellent suggestion. I took your advice and found a gentleman that has one and I am buying it. Wished it would come with a mechanic to help me