Fell Into My Lap - Documented 1970 W-30
May 13th, 2014, 08:36 PM
#401
May 13th, 2014, 09:11 PM
#402
A little work this morning, then more tonight (total 3 1/2 hours)
Continued work on the e brake assy. Began by taping off the refinished handle, and then removed the parking brake switch. Then wire wheeled the handle rod and spring and masked it. Then used the Dremel tool with various wire brush attachments to clean the cable yoke, the assembly pivot, the firewall mounting studs and heads, afterwards taping all those things off. I took pictures of exactly where the black paint dip lines are and then painted the main body in Eastwood's Detail Gray. Going to let that dry overnight, will then lightly sand the areas where the black paint goes and spray in Bumper paint semi gloss. The black paint on this part is originally the same as what the wiper transmission was painted in.
Moved onto the steering shaft. Masked off the rubber bellows and above, and then shot that and the "cap" with Eastwood's chassis black. It looks way too shiny right now - will see what it looks like tomorrow. Patton Glade saw my undisturbed original paint on it and commented it was haphazardly applied at the factory, but it was shinier than he expected. Still what I painted was even shinier and "thick" looking. I haven't had a good experience with that spray paint.
Moved onto the condenser. Spent nearly an hour straightening the most severely bent fins by hand with a small screwdriver. Will next have to find my fin comb and get the fins really straight before moving onto washing it. Will need to remove the corrosion where the brackets attach to it, and then figure out a way of removing the white crusty stuff on the return elbows.
Continued work on the e brake assy. Began by taping off the refinished handle, and then removed the parking brake switch. Then wire wheeled the handle rod and spring and masked it. Then used the Dremel tool with various wire brush attachments to clean the cable yoke, the assembly pivot, the firewall mounting studs and heads, afterwards taping all those things off. I took pictures of exactly where the black paint dip lines are and then painted the main body in Eastwood's Detail Gray. Going to let that dry overnight, will then lightly sand the areas where the black paint goes and spray in Bumper paint semi gloss. The black paint on this part is originally the same as what the wiper transmission was painted in.
Moved onto the steering shaft. Masked off the rubber bellows and above, and then shot that and the "cap" with Eastwood's chassis black. It looks way too shiny right now - will see what it looks like tomorrow. Patton Glade saw my undisturbed original paint on it and commented it was haphazardly applied at the factory, but it was shinier than he expected. Still what I painted was even shinier and "thick" looking. I haven't had a good experience with that spray paint.
Moved onto the condenser. Spent nearly an hour straightening the most severely bent fins by hand with a small screwdriver. Will next have to find my fin comb and get the fins really straight before moving onto washing it. Will need to remove the corrosion where the brackets attach to it, and then figure out a way of removing the white crusty stuff on the return elbows.
Last edited by costpenn; May 13th, 2014 at 09:14 PM.
May 14th, 2014, 04:27 AM
#403
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 2,257
If you want assembly line originality, set up a dip process.
Float about 1/2" of black paint on top of water, then dip the part and hang to dry.
This is what I saw at the Framingham GM plant in 1972.
The majority of dipped parts had drips.
No primer used.
Float about 1/2" of black paint on top of water, then dip the part and hang to dry.
This is what I saw at the Framingham GM plant in 1972.
The majority of dipped parts had drips.
No primer used.
May 14th, 2014, 08:12 PM
#404
Thanks for the info. I will do that process on the next one I do. Would want to get some more info on what type paint, how long to dip, etc....
May 14th, 2014, 08:21 PM
#405
Finally finished the e brake assembly (1 1/2 hours)
This morning I used carb cleaner, followed by Dremel tool wire brushing on the actual upper pedal and gear to provide a little contrast against the detail gray of the main body. Then carefully masked off the gray to shoot the black on the pedal and front of the housing. Took a little while to get everything lined up, but I think this part came out really well after removing all the masking tape and reinstalling the switch.
Could not find the fin comb, but I think the condenser looks fine as it is. Will attempt to wash it clean in the morning, then shoot with the Eastwood's radiator paint.
This morning I used carb cleaner, followed by Dremel tool wire brushing on the actual upper pedal and gear to provide a little contrast against the detail gray of the main body. Then carefully masked off the gray to shoot the black on the pedal and front of the housing. Took a little while to get everything lined up, but I think this part came out really well after removing all the masking tape and reinstalling the switch.
Could not find the fin comb, but I think the condenser looks fine as it is. Will attempt to wash it clean in the morning, then shoot with the Eastwood's radiator paint.
Last edited by costpenn; May 14th, 2014 at 08:24 PM.
May 15th, 2014, 07:34 PM
#407
Getting close on the condenser (2 hours)
Spent almost the whole time prepping the condenser for paint. Used the trusty wire brush and Dremel tool to get the crusty aluminum corrosion (?) off the returns on the passenger side, but the driver's side was just needed good cleaning. Wire wheeled the two steel connectors. Almost thought I was going to have to buy a repro unit because the nut that screws into the dryer was frozen on the pipe with a crust oozing out where the two meet. Tapped around the nur, wire wheeled as much of the crust away as I could, and sprayed carb cleaner into the gap. It slowly loosened up. I had to hold the tube at a handy flat built into the piping to avoid twisting it, but it finally got free with no damage to the pipe itself.
Used the concentrated degreaser on the core unit itself scrubbing down into the fins with just the right bristle tension brush. Enough to get in the gap and clean without crushing or distorting the fins themselves.
Rinsed repeatedly, and now drying in the garage. Wire wheeled the two OE pipe to unit clamps. Will post a pic in another thread about a weird looking rubber thing that was on the outlet pipe. Do not know what it is.
Lastly, shot the cast looking base of the steering shaft in Cast Blast paint for a little definition against the main shaft and rag joint. Not sure if correct on this, but looks like it should be.
No more work till next week. Going to New Mexico to run sound at a Music festival out in Madrid. We will see how the Z06 does on this little jaunt - there are some wide open spaces out there.
Spent almost the whole time prepping the condenser for paint. Used the trusty wire brush and Dremel tool to get the crusty aluminum corrosion (?) off the returns on the passenger side, but the driver's side was just needed good cleaning. Wire wheeled the two steel connectors. Almost thought I was going to have to buy a repro unit because the nut that screws into the dryer was frozen on the pipe with a crust oozing out where the two meet. Tapped around the nur, wire wheeled as much of the crust away as I could, and sprayed carb cleaner into the gap. It slowly loosened up. I had to hold the tube at a handy flat built into the piping to avoid twisting it, but it finally got free with no damage to the pipe itself.
Used the concentrated degreaser on the core unit itself scrubbing down into the fins with just the right bristle tension brush. Enough to get in the gap and clean without crushing or distorting the fins themselves.
Rinsed repeatedly, and now drying in the garage. Wire wheeled the two OE pipe to unit clamps. Will post a pic in another thread about a weird looking rubber thing that was on the outlet pipe. Do not know what it is.
Lastly, shot the cast looking base of the steering shaft in Cast Blast paint for a little definition against the main shaft and rag joint. Not sure if correct on this, but looks like it should be.
No more work till next week. Going to New Mexico to run sound at a Music festival out in Madrid. We will see how the Z06 does on this little jaunt - there are some wide open spaces out there.
Last edited by costpenn; May 15th, 2014 at 07:36 PM.
May 17th, 2014, 03:42 PM
#410
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Brazil Indiana
Posts: 11,535
May 18th, 2014, 07:18 AM
#411
Interesting that no one has a definitive answer on this one. I'll just clean it up and slide it back on.
Looking forward to finishing my condenser and radiator when I get back. Last things to do will be polishing exterior trim that Al's Plating did not do, detailing the glass, getting the calipers and wheel cylinders rebuilt, deciding what to do on the starter, getting the trans rebuilt, reassembling the engine, cleaning/refinishing/detailing a couple more shelves of misc underhood stuff (accelerator cable, vac. tank, coil, A/C lines etc.) and getting the frame back to powdercoating and rebuilding the rear end and front suspension.
Wait a minute - I THOUGHT I was almost done!!!!!!!!!
Looking forward to finishing my condenser and radiator when I get back. Last things to do will be polishing exterior trim that Al's Plating did not do, detailing the glass, getting the calipers and wheel cylinders rebuilt, deciding what to do on the starter, getting the trans rebuilt, reassembling the engine, cleaning/refinishing/detailing a couple more shelves of misc underhood stuff (accelerator cable, vac. tank, coil, A/C lines etc.) and getting the frame back to powdercoating and rebuilding the rear end and front suspension.
Wait a minute - I THOUGHT I was almost done!!!!!!!!!
May 20th, 2014, 08:00 PM
#412
Back to work (3 hours)
Finished hand straightening the rest of the fins on the condenser. Found that using an exacto knife with a dull blade made for the best tool (for me at least) for this task. Not all of the gins came out perfectly straight, but close inspection of some areas that were bent over revealed that it was originally painted with some of the fins bent!
Painted this component with the Duplicolor Semi Flat bumper paint. Looks very close to the original color - I compared it to a protected area on one of the dryer tubes under the clamp.
Then turned to the radiator. It had sat in the garage since Feb, so I went over it with the red scotchbrite being careful to get into all the valleys on the tanks. I used the Dremel tool with a wire attachment to detail out the original tag. I found some other numbers of the ridge of the tag I had not seen before. Will post a separate thread on this. Sealed off all the openings and washed it off and set it to dry for the evening. Will paint in the morning with the Eastwood's radiator paint.
Finished hand straightening the rest of the fins on the condenser. Found that using an exacto knife with a dull blade made for the best tool (for me at least) for this task. Not all of the gins came out perfectly straight, but close inspection of some areas that were bent over revealed that it was originally painted with some of the fins bent!
Painted this component with the Duplicolor Semi Flat bumper paint. Looks very close to the original color - I compared it to a protected area on one of the dryer tubes under the clamp.
Then turned to the radiator. It had sat in the garage since Feb, so I went over it with the red scotchbrite being careful to get into all the valleys on the tanks. I used the Dremel tool with a wire attachment to detail out the original tag. I found some other numbers of the ridge of the tag I had not seen before. Will post a separate thread on this. Sealed off all the openings and washed it off and set it to dry for the evening. Will paint in the morning with the Eastwood's radiator paint.
Last edited by costpenn; May 20th, 2014 at 08:03 PM.
May 22nd, 2014, 09:48 PM
#413
Whoops - forgot to log the work yesterday (1 1/2 hours yesterday, 2 hours tonight)
Yesterday, I finished painting the radiator. The Eastwood's rad paint is a little thicker than I thought it would be, but in the end I guess it looks correct. Hope my other thread on the tag and the tanks on the radiator clears up the IA vs. IF discrepancy.
Today, was a FUN and satisfying session. I began work on trying to save a bunch of the original underhood parts that normally I would just replace with new. As I continually relearn, pretty much every repo part is somehow different than the OE, and the rubber parts are no exception. This car has been in covered storage since the mid 80's, so many of the rubber parts are much better than what is normally encountered.
So today, I cleaned and OK'ed the reuse of the following OE usually replaced parts:
Top and bottom radiator sealing strips
Upper and lower radiator support saddles
Radiator side seal flaps (with buttons)
Cowl to hood seal
Most just cleaned up with a brisk scrubbing of Tuff Stuff and a medium tension soft bristle brush. The cowl seal had some Blue overspray on one end which required a lot of very tedious gentle exacto knife scraping of the surface to get it off without ruining the underlying surface finish. It was worth it because I don't think any of the repo cowl strips have the same "look" and sponginess as the OE. I will have to find 5 of the OE style retaining clips because while I got the rubber off intact from the car, I broke a few - they are pretty delicate.
The side seals have the black plastic push in buttons to hold them in place. I got them out without damaging them and think they still have enough teeth left to hold the flaps in place.
The saddle rubbers have a GM P/N on them. All eight nipples are intact - the lower ones needed a lot more cleaning due to corrosion, but were still OK. The uppers were almost perfect. Same for the long core sealing strips.
Sent the clock off today to Clock Works to be rebuilt. Am going with the OE style mechanical works.
Also pulled the lens off the speedo and polished it. I did not have to replace it after all, and the OE one has a GM # on the lens itself. Lightly cleaned/dusted the face and needle, and sealed it back up. Am replacing all the bulbs, and cleaning all the contacts.
Yesterday, I finished painting the radiator. The Eastwood's rad paint is a little thicker than I thought it would be, but in the end I guess it looks correct. Hope my other thread on the tag and the tanks on the radiator clears up the IA vs. IF discrepancy.
Today, was a FUN and satisfying session. I began work on trying to save a bunch of the original underhood parts that normally I would just replace with new. As I continually relearn, pretty much every repo part is somehow different than the OE, and the rubber parts are no exception. This car has been in covered storage since the mid 80's, so many of the rubber parts are much better than what is normally encountered.
So today, I cleaned and OK'ed the reuse of the following OE usually replaced parts:
Top and bottom radiator sealing strips
Upper and lower radiator support saddles
Radiator side seal flaps (with buttons)
Cowl to hood seal
Most just cleaned up with a brisk scrubbing of Tuff Stuff and a medium tension soft bristle brush. The cowl seal had some Blue overspray on one end which required a lot of very tedious gentle exacto knife scraping of the surface to get it off without ruining the underlying surface finish. It was worth it because I don't think any of the repo cowl strips have the same "look" and sponginess as the OE. I will have to find 5 of the OE style retaining clips because while I got the rubber off intact from the car, I broke a few - they are pretty delicate.
The side seals have the black plastic push in buttons to hold them in place. I got them out without damaging them and think they still have enough teeth left to hold the flaps in place.
The saddle rubbers have a GM P/N on them. All eight nipples are intact - the lower ones needed a lot more cleaning due to corrosion, but were still OK. The uppers were almost perfect. Same for the long core sealing strips.
Sent the clock off today to Clock Works to be rebuilt. Am going with the OE style mechanical works.
Also pulled the lens off the speedo and polished it. I did not have to replace it after all, and the OE one has a GM # on the lens itself. Lightly cleaned/dusted the face and needle, and sealed it back up. Am replacing all the bulbs, and cleaning all the contacts.
Last edited by costpenn; May 22nd, 2014 at 09:55 PM.
May 23rd, 2014, 08:02 PM
#415
Another good day (4 1/2 hours)
Started by finishing off radiator side seals. These are the ones with the clips go between the radiator support and the radiator. These were very well preseved. Cleaned with just window cleaner, a very soft brush and blue shop paper towels.
Then it was the original windshield washer hoses. These are the 3 raised ridge black hoses, and NOT the wide white stripe like what us on my 68. Had to use the industrial strength degreaser on these, and do some minor blue overspray removal with brake clean and a dull edge. The reservoir pick up screen was still intact - it is brass, while all the repo crap is plastic mesh.
Next moved to the under dash vacuum lines. These were also nice. I still went ahead and cleaned each hose individually. The biggest pain here was getting all the black tape gunk off the lines. Brake Cleaner did the job, and it did not damage the vivid hose colors I retaped wherever the hoses were originally taped together.
Reassembled the steering shaft unit. I first repainted the mid shaft area with SEM bumper black, but I left the upper "cap" in the shinier Chassis Black.reassembled the unit using plenty of disc brake grease inside the cap. Think it came out pretty nice - see below.
Painted in Eastwood's phosphate paint the window fuzzy screws. Wire wheeled and also painted in the same color the headlamp ring to bucket assembly screws. These were the absolute hardest screws to find for the whole car.
Next wire wheeled the original fuel pump to carb fuel line. Found that at one time, someone had tried using a pipe wrench to remove the tube from pump. I am going to see if I can fix it by filing the flats smooth. The rest of the tube looked excellent after wire wheeling. I have had lots of problems with the repo lines not fiitting properly.
Lastly began work on my OE coil. Cleaned and waxed the upper Bakelite part, removed the washers & nuts for cleaning and polishing. Masked off the plastic part and painted the main body in Chassis Black. Will finish it tomorrow along with a lot more underhood parts.
Started by finishing off radiator side seals. These are the ones with the clips go between the radiator support and the radiator. These were very well preseved. Cleaned with just window cleaner, a very soft brush and blue shop paper towels.
Then it was the original windshield washer hoses. These are the 3 raised ridge black hoses, and NOT the wide white stripe like what us on my 68. Had to use the industrial strength degreaser on these, and do some minor blue overspray removal with brake clean and a dull edge. The reservoir pick up screen was still intact - it is brass, while all the repo crap is plastic mesh.
Next moved to the under dash vacuum lines. These were also nice. I still went ahead and cleaned each hose individually. The biggest pain here was getting all the black tape gunk off the lines. Brake Cleaner did the job, and it did not damage the vivid hose colors I retaped wherever the hoses were originally taped together.
Reassembled the steering shaft unit. I first repainted the mid shaft area with SEM bumper black, but I left the upper "cap" in the shinier Chassis Black.reassembled the unit using plenty of disc brake grease inside the cap. Think it came out pretty nice - see below.
Painted in Eastwood's phosphate paint the window fuzzy screws. Wire wheeled and also painted in the same color the headlamp ring to bucket assembly screws. These were the absolute hardest screws to find for the whole car.
Next wire wheeled the original fuel pump to carb fuel line. Found that at one time, someone had tried using a pipe wrench to remove the tube from pump. I am going to see if I can fix it by filing the flats smooth. The rest of the tube looked excellent after wire wheeling. I have had lots of problems with the repo lines not fiitting properly.
Lastly began work on my OE coil. Cleaned and waxed the upper Bakelite part, removed the washers & nuts for cleaning and polishing. Masked off the plastic part and painted the main body in Chassis Black. Will finish it tomorrow along with a lot more underhood parts.
Last edited by costpenn; May 23rd, 2014 at 08:06 PM.
May 24th, 2014, 04:54 AM
#417
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: Raleigh NC
Posts: 624
headlight screws
I'm not sure if you have heard of InLine Tube or MotorCity SuperCars (one of their distributors) - but I have been buying all my nuts, bolts, and screws from them. Below is a link to the headlight screws you were looking for
http://www.ebay.com/itm/olds-head-li...7663a2&vxp=mtr
Although a bit pricey for screws - it saves a lot of time from having to clean and refinish them. I have been basically taking the stuff off my car, bagging them, and then when I have time ordering replacement ones.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/olds-head-li...7663a2&vxp=mtr
Although a bit pricey for screws - it saves a lot of time from having to clean and refinish them. I have been basically taking the stuff off my car, bagging them, and then when I have time ordering replacement ones.
May 24th, 2014, 06:24 AM
#418
I'm not sure if you have heard of InLine Tube or MotorCity SuperCars (one of their distributors) - but I have been buying all my nuts, bolts, and screws from them. Below is a link to the headlight screws you were looking for
http://www.ebay.com/itm/olds-head-li...7663a2&vxp=mtr
Although a bit pricey for screws - it saves a lot of time from having to clean and refinish them. I have been basically taking the stuff off my car, bagging them, and then when I have time ordering replacement ones.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/olds-head-li...7663a2&vxp=mtr
Although a bit pricey for screws - it saves a lot of time from having to clean and refinish them. I have been basically taking the stuff off my car, bagging them, and then when I have time ordering replacement ones.
Those, the screws holding the fuse block to the firewall, the front center bumper to support tube bumper bolts and nuts, the rally steering wheel to hub screws, and the three 70 grille to grille and grille to headlamp extension housing screws are the ones you really don't want to lose....
Last edited by costpenn; May 24th, 2014 at 06:27 AM.
May 26th, 2014, 06:01 PM
#420
Holiday work - where is the holiday pay? (3 1/2 hours)
Finished painting and detailling my 216 BR coil.
Next moved onto the horns. Really want to save these since they are correct and working. The worst parts were in the bell with lots of corrosion pitting on the aluminum. Plugged up the tunnel, wire wheeled and sanded with 320 grit, and painted with Krylon Satin Black. Will unplug tomorrow and test tomorrow.
I have been saving a used vintage Delco dist cap for a special car. Spent about 30 minutes cleaning and polishing. Looks good inside the cap - no cracks and the contacts are solid. I hope this version is the correct one for my car. I will do some research.
Started on the Dual Gate. Removed, stripped, and painted the end brackets in Duplicolor Stainless Steel paint. Used Carb cleaner to clean all the dried grease and gunk out of the shifter mechanism. Removed the light assembly to paint in white. Almost was able to save the sliding plate, but burned through the chrome at the last second in getting out the last scratches. I will probably wind up chroming the OE one.
The shifter handle itself has a small chip in the chrome right below where the ball threads end. I don't want to disassemble the mechanism since the shifter feels nice and tight. I will put the ball on it and mock it up in the vert to see if you can see the chip when it is in the car.
Finally, replaced bulbs, cleaned contacts, dusted the face and polished the lens of the fuel gauge and idiot light cluster. Nothing works better than a soft facial pad and Colgate toothpaste to polish the lens.
Finished painting and detailling my 216 BR coil.
Next moved onto the horns. Really want to save these since they are correct and working. The worst parts were in the bell with lots of corrosion pitting on the aluminum. Plugged up the tunnel, wire wheeled and sanded with 320 grit, and painted with Krylon Satin Black. Will unplug tomorrow and test tomorrow.
I have been saving a used vintage Delco dist cap for a special car. Spent about 30 minutes cleaning and polishing. Looks good inside the cap - no cracks and the contacts are solid. I hope this version is the correct one for my car. I will do some research.
Started on the Dual Gate. Removed, stripped, and painted the end brackets in Duplicolor Stainless Steel paint. Used Carb cleaner to clean all the dried grease and gunk out of the shifter mechanism. Removed the light assembly to paint in white. Almost was able to save the sliding plate, but burned through the chrome at the last second in getting out the last scratches. I will probably wind up chroming the OE one.
The shifter handle itself has a small chip in the chrome right below where the ball threads end. I don't want to disassemble the mechanism since the shifter feels nice and tight. I will put the ball on it and mock it up in the vert to see if you can see the chip when it is in the car.
Finally, replaced bulbs, cleaned contacts, dusted the face and polished the lens of the fuel gauge and idiot light cluster. Nothing works better than a soft facial pad and Colgate toothpaste to polish the lens.
Last edited by costpenn; May 26th, 2014 at 06:04 PM.
May 27th, 2014, 09:42 PM
#422
I like this phase of the parts reconditioning - lots of instant gratification (3 hours)
Began today by cleaning the fender peak molding gasket/flaps. These are original ones, and just needed a little overspray removal and cleaning with nothing stronger than Tuff Stuff. I can't believe they are still in such good shape. Have I mentioned to everyone lately how crappy the repo peak moldings and gaskets are? JUNK - no matter which supplier it is.
Next moved to the weird gas tank vent thingie's original hoses. These still have the 'Swan Gas" markings on them and have not yet become completely hard. They have a few small cracks right where the hoses end, but before the clamps attach them. Will see how they install before deciding whether to actually use them. It would be cool only if they dont leak anything!!!
Went back and brushed the main ground strap with a hand held soft copper brush to see if I could get some more shine out of it. I really do not want to paint it.
Drifted over to wire wheeling the intake manifold vacuum fittings. Pic below shows the before and after of 2 finished vs. two untouched.
Wire wheeled all the bolts and screws, along with the lamp "base" for the Dual Gate. Painted the lens base white, and the big bracket to shifter body bolts with the phosphate paint.
The coolest thing today was saving the original hood to fender bumpers. They looked awful with a lot of overspray and tan colored rubber oxidation. A one minute each soaking in Brake Cleaner, along with a scraping with a very dull plastic blade got all the junk off them. I think the repos generally look narrower than the OE ones and don't have the right sheen to them.
Got the OE to the car (see date code in pic - I did not know so many things have a date code on them) PVS switch wire wheeled. I have another thread going about what is the correct color for the top section. Have to say seeing this car have the OE one is awesome. Most of us, in our misguided youth, could not wait to take that crap off our cars and throw it in the trash - usually accompanied by guzzling another beer.
Have the two valve cover breather cans soaking in carb cleaner overnight. I think those are original as well - they are full of oil gunk. It looks like the filtering media is tiny coiled wires or something like Brillo. If I can't get them to flush cleanly, I will replace them. Both breather tubes have some rust in them, don't know whether I feel comfortable in reusing them. 3 of the 4 vent tube rubber elbows I was able to remove without cracking. They have hardened up a lot. Will sleep on whether to replace them all or not.
Began today by cleaning the fender peak molding gasket/flaps. These are original ones, and just needed a little overspray removal and cleaning with nothing stronger than Tuff Stuff. I can't believe they are still in such good shape. Have I mentioned to everyone lately how crappy the repo peak moldings and gaskets are? JUNK - no matter which supplier it is.
Next moved to the weird gas tank vent thingie's original hoses. These still have the 'Swan Gas" markings on them and have not yet become completely hard. They have a few small cracks right where the hoses end, but before the clamps attach them. Will see how they install before deciding whether to actually use them. It would be cool only if they dont leak anything!!!
Went back and brushed the main ground strap with a hand held soft copper brush to see if I could get some more shine out of it. I really do not want to paint it.
Drifted over to wire wheeling the intake manifold vacuum fittings. Pic below shows the before and after of 2 finished vs. two untouched.
Wire wheeled all the bolts and screws, along with the lamp "base" for the Dual Gate. Painted the lens base white, and the big bracket to shifter body bolts with the phosphate paint.
The coolest thing today was saving the original hood to fender bumpers. They looked awful with a lot of overspray and tan colored rubber oxidation. A one minute each soaking in Brake Cleaner, along with a scraping with a very dull plastic blade got all the junk off them. I think the repos generally look narrower than the OE ones and don't have the right sheen to them.
Got the OE to the car (see date code in pic - I did not know so many things have a date code on them) PVS switch wire wheeled. I have another thread going about what is the correct color for the top section. Have to say seeing this car have the OE one is awesome. Most of us, in our misguided youth, could not wait to take that crap off our cars and throw it in the trash - usually accompanied by guzzling another beer.
Have the two valve cover breather cans soaking in carb cleaner overnight. I think those are original as well - they are full of oil gunk. It looks like the filtering media is tiny coiled wires or something like Brillo. If I can't get them to flush cleanly, I will replace them. Both breather tubes have some rust in them, don't know whether I feel comfortable in reusing them. 3 of the 4 vent tube rubber elbows I was able to remove without cracking. They have hardened up a lot. Will sleep on whether to replace them all or not.
Last edited by costpenn; May 27th, 2014 at 09:44 PM.
May 28th, 2014, 09:43 PM
#424
Short sessions today (1 1/4 hour)
Thanks to a tip, both breather cans flushed cleanly today. I went ahead and stripped them along with the vent tubes and painted them Rustoleum High Heat Gloss Black and Eastwood's Chassis Black respectively. After stripping the tubes I noticed both had a "A" stamped in them - wonder if this means they were for A bodies only?
Cleaned all four rubber elbows with the undiluted Zep concentrated degreaser. They seemed a little more pliable after cleaning. When everything was dry I reassembled as per the pic below.
Started cleaning the vac. modulator line. Want to not strip off the plating if I can help it, so I'm going to try lightly scrubbing with 0000 steel wool.
Bench tested the refinished horns. Both sounded loud and clear!!
Thanks to a tip, both breather cans flushed cleanly today. I went ahead and stripped them along with the vent tubes and painted them Rustoleum High Heat Gloss Black and Eastwood's Chassis Black respectively. After stripping the tubes I noticed both had a "A" stamped in them - wonder if this means they were for A bodies only?
Cleaned all four rubber elbows with the undiluted Zep concentrated degreaser. They seemed a little more pliable after cleaning. When everything was dry I reassembled as per the pic below.
Started cleaning the vac. modulator line. Want to not strip off the plating if I can help it, so I'm going to try lightly scrubbing with 0000 steel wool.
Bench tested the refinished horns. Both sounded loud and clear!!
Last edited by costpenn; May 28th, 2014 at 09:48 PM.
May 29th, 2014, 09:37 PM
#425
Lots of hours, but little finished goods (?) (4 hours total)
As posted in another thread, I finished up the PV switch by painting with two different paints the upper half. It looks really close to a pic I found of an NOS one for sale - for 345.00!
Moved onto the original negative battery cable. This needed a lot more work than I expected, and is still not finished:
1) Basic degriming with concentrated degreaser being careful to not wipe hard on the GM P/N on the cable
2) Using the soft brass wire brush on the connector end that goes to the block.
3) Removing the clamp that holds the cable to the alt. bracket. Cleaning it, wire wheeling it, spraying the black Plasti Dip stuff on the loop, satin clear coating the part that is not covered by the Plasti Dip and reinstalling oriented in the correct direction.
4) Removed the frozen terminal bolt. This bolt is incorrect to begin with (too long) and replaced with the bolt/nut/washer from the positive cable after wire wheeling them. Note: pic below shows the wrong bolt in the terminal.
5) Spent a while with a file smoothing out the battery terminal. Throughout the years, people jumping off the car most likely had put some scars on the terminal, so I filed and reshaped it as best I could to its original contours
6) Still to do is the auxiliary ground connector. Somewhere along the line, it had been removed and replaced with an aftermarket connector, will post a separate thread looking for what the original aux connector looked like.
7) Waxed the wire insulation to get that OE gloss to it.
Next evaluated trying to save the original positive cable. It is too far gone with the red insulation badly faded, original battery terminal missing, and a couple of stains I could not get out no matter what I used. Pity since the lower part of the cable was in pretty good condition.
Onto the A/C hoses. Began with the one that has the muffler. Removed he muffler insulator (can reuse) and the little piece of insulation that gives on the muffler itself between the compressor and the muffler. It was shot, but I had a really nice OE piece in stock and will use it. (I cut a lengthwise slit in it, along the bottom where it will not show, to remove and reinstall) Interesting to note that this little piece is actually spot glued onto the hose at the factory. Wire wheeled the steel connector nut that goes onto the condenser (these are rusty on just about every car I see) and satin clear coated the hell out of it. Used a green scotch brite on all the other metal surfaces "sanding" just enough to get a consistent finish but not overpolishing. Replaced the schrader valve cap with a correct aluminum fluted one. Then went over the hoses themselves with degreaser again careful not to mess up the OE numbers and markings - these are in green ink. Lastly cleaned the two previously mentioned insulation pieces. These may need a couple of cleanings with a drying time between each to get them nice.
More A/C hoses tomorrow.
As posted in another thread, I finished up the PV switch by painting with two different paints the upper half. It looks really close to a pic I found of an NOS one for sale - for 345.00!
Moved onto the original negative battery cable. This needed a lot more work than I expected, and is still not finished:
1) Basic degriming with concentrated degreaser being careful to not wipe hard on the GM P/N on the cable
2) Using the soft brass wire brush on the connector end that goes to the block.
3) Removing the clamp that holds the cable to the alt. bracket. Cleaning it, wire wheeling it, spraying the black Plasti Dip stuff on the loop, satin clear coating the part that is not covered by the Plasti Dip and reinstalling oriented in the correct direction.
4) Removed the frozen terminal bolt. This bolt is incorrect to begin with (too long) and replaced with the bolt/nut/washer from the positive cable after wire wheeling them. Note: pic below shows the wrong bolt in the terminal.
5) Spent a while with a file smoothing out the battery terminal. Throughout the years, people jumping off the car most likely had put some scars on the terminal, so I filed and reshaped it as best I could to its original contours
6) Still to do is the auxiliary ground connector. Somewhere along the line, it had been removed and replaced with an aftermarket connector, will post a separate thread looking for what the original aux connector looked like.
7) Waxed the wire insulation to get that OE gloss to it.
Next evaluated trying to save the original positive cable. It is too far gone with the red insulation badly faded, original battery terminal missing, and a couple of stains I could not get out no matter what I used. Pity since the lower part of the cable was in pretty good condition.
Onto the A/C hoses. Began with the one that has the muffler. Removed he muffler insulator (can reuse) and the little piece of insulation that gives on the muffler itself between the compressor and the muffler. It was shot, but I had a really nice OE piece in stock and will use it. (I cut a lengthwise slit in it, along the bottom where it will not show, to remove and reinstall) Interesting to note that this little piece is actually spot glued onto the hose at the factory. Wire wheeled the steel connector nut that goes onto the condenser (these are rusty on just about every car I see) and satin clear coated the hell out of it. Used a green scotch brite on all the other metal surfaces "sanding" just enough to get a consistent finish but not overpolishing. Replaced the schrader valve cap with a correct aluminum fluted one. Then went over the hoses themselves with degreaser again careful not to mess up the OE numbers and markings - these are in green ink. Lastly cleaned the two previously mentioned insulation pieces. These may need a couple of cleanings with a drying time between each to get them nice.
More A/C hoses tomorrow.
Last edited by costpenn; May 29th, 2014 at 10:38 PM.
May 30th, 2014, 09:08 AM
#427
Purchase
What may I ask did you pay for this patina original?
Doc
Doc
Just finished my 72 442 vert. and was just telling the wife the other day - REALLY -THIS IS IT - no more restos.
Until Yesterday.
A nice sunny Sunday afternoon, and somehow I get a cell phone call from a guy I had met 20 years ago. I had visited in business in 1994 to do a site survey for a new phone system my company was thinking of buying, and in the course of the visit he mentioned he liked old cars. I said I was a Olds fan, and he said he had something in the warehouse I might like to see. In addition to many other musclecars, in the corner was a Blue 1970 442 W-30 covered in a thick layer of dust. I don't remember all the specifics of what I saw, but it was enough to tell him that if he were to want to sell it, contact me first.
We would occasionally bump into each other for a few years after and discuss cars. He always had his family with him, and was always gracious and would find time to talk with me. The subject of the W-30 never came up, but I'm sure he knew I would be interested. I last saw him (until today) in 2000 at a Sonic Cruise In, and fell out of touch afterwards. Family and business had to come first for awhile - and rightfully so.
So yesterday, he calls up and says - "You still want that 442? It's for sale. Come by tomorrow if you are interested - I need to sell it quick." So today, I go and look her over and two beers later - SOLD.
Here's what I bought:
1970 442 Holiday W-30 - (344870M258XXX) with original broadcast "card" with W30 in the 3rd box. (01D Date on the trim tag)
Exterior Color - AstroBlue (25) in both body color positions (no vinyl top)
Interior Color - Black (930) completely original, mint condition and unmolested,except for dash bead falling out, center console bezel chrome flaking, window crank ***** yellowing, aftermarket underdash gauges, and package tray having some aftermarket, but very well installed 6X9 speakers in it. Door panels, dash, seat covers, headliner, sail panels, original front seat backs in excellent shape - good enough to take to the Nationals with just a good cleaning.
Options - Auto, A/C, P/S, P/B, Dual gate, tinted glass (I think), front buckets with console, clock.
General Body - Original, perfect W-25 hood (there is no comparison between an OE or Thornton hood and any of the aftermarket versions - period) All trim/brightwork on the car in excellent condition with just a buffing needed - if at that. Front bumper excellent. Rear cutout bumper will need to be rechromed. Paint is fair. Had a re-spray in the mid 1980's, and has some rust bubbling in the front lower fenders, and lower rear quarters right behind wheel openings. Floors, rockers, rear window, cowl all are excellent and rust free. OE 442 grilles are pristine, no tabs broken , no cracks. Will need new tail light and reverse lenses. Glass is excellent, weather stripping is very good - might need the door weatherstrips only.
Engine - VIN matching block, F heads, 406115 (Oldsmobile W-455) intake, 402294 & 5 exhaust manifolds,704028 carb, Harrison radiator, OE red wells with very little fading, all wiring/vacuum hoses in unmolested condition except for the addition of aftermarket gauge senders, PVS, TCS, hot air tube and stove still there, OAI flapper and base in excellent condition. Almost all of the clips and fasteners look to be OE. A/C system complete. Oh, and does the thing sound good when you start it.....
Transmission - VIN matching OW
Rear End - did not get this code, but I'm assuming it's a 3.08 limited slip.
Major work needed - The car has no brakes at all. Will need new wheel cylinders, calipers, master cylinder, booster (Steve Gregoire - I'll be calling soon!) Will need to fix rust and contemplate doing a respray. Reseal the engine, clean detail the engine compartment/underbody, and that's about it - plus, this paint combo screams out for SS1's with GoodyearRWL repro bias ply tires.
Two questions for the Joe P's, Allan R's,Patton G's and others - you know who you are:
1) Yes or no, was U21 a mandatory option with W30? My car has no gauges, but does have the clock.
2) I have on the firewall a Delco voltage regulator with the capacitor. It's a pristine stagger script job with no wires going to it, and nothing cut/missing on the engine wiring harness. The alternator is the internally regulated job. Everything says this is a 442, any ideas why it would be there?
Thanks for reading my long winded post. Cant wait to get started on it!!!!
Until Yesterday.
A nice sunny Sunday afternoon, and somehow I get a cell phone call from a guy I had met 20 years ago. I had visited in business in 1994 to do a site survey for a new phone system my company was thinking of buying, and in the course of the visit he mentioned he liked old cars. I said I was a Olds fan, and he said he had something in the warehouse I might like to see. In addition to many other musclecars, in the corner was a Blue 1970 442 W-30 covered in a thick layer of dust. I don't remember all the specifics of what I saw, but it was enough to tell him that if he were to want to sell it, contact me first.
We would occasionally bump into each other for a few years after and discuss cars. He always had his family with him, and was always gracious and would find time to talk with me. The subject of the W-30 never came up, but I'm sure he knew I would be interested. I last saw him (until today) in 2000 at a Sonic Cruise In, and fell out of touch afterwards. Family and business had to come first for awhile - and rightfully so.
So yesterday, he calls up and says - "You still want that 442? It's for sale. Come by tomorrow if you are interested - I need to sell it quick." So today, I go and look her over and two beers later - SOLD.
Here's what I bought:
1970 442 Holiday W-30 - (344870M258XXX) with original broadcast "card" with W30 in the 3rd box. (01D Date on the trim tag)
Exterior Color - AstroBlue (25) in both body color positions (no vinyl top)
Interior Color - Black (930) completely original, mint condition and unmolested,except for dash bead falling out, center console bezel chrome flaking, window crank ***** yellowing, aftermarket underdash gauges, and package tray having some aftermarket, but very well installed 6X9 speakers in it. Door panels, dash, seat covers, headliner, sail panels, original front seat backs in excellent shape - good enough to take to the Nationals with just a good cleaning.
Options - Auto, A/C, P/S, P/B, Dual gate, tinted glass (I think), front buckets with console, clock.
General Body - Original, perfect W-25 hood (there is no comparison between an OE or Thornton hood and any of the aftermarket versions - period) All trim/brightwork on the car in excellent condition with just a buffing needed - if at that. Front bumper excellent. Rear cutout bumper will need to be rechromed. Paint is fair. Had a re-spray in the mid 1980's, and has some rust bubbling in the front lower fenders, and lower rear quarters right behind wheel openings. Floors, rockers, rear window, cowl all are excellent and rust free. OE 442 grilles are pristine, no tabs broken , no cracks. Will need new tail light and reverse lenses. Glass is excellent, weather stripping is very good - might need the door weatherstrips only.
Engine - VIN matching block, F heads, 406115 (Oldsmobile W-455) intake, 402294 & 5 exhaust manifolds,704028 carb, Harrison radiator, OE red wells with very little fading, all wiring/vacuum hoses in unmolested condition except for the addition of aftermarket gauge senders, PVS, TCS, hot air tube and stove still there, OAI flapper and base in excellent condition. Almost all of the clips and fasteners look to be OE. A/C system complete. Oh, and does the thing sound good when you start it.....
Transmission - VIN matching OW
Rear End - did not get this code, but I'm assuming it's a 3.08 limited slip.
Major work needed - The car has no brakes at all. Will need new wheel cylinders, calipers, master cylinder, booster (Steve Gregoire - I'll be calling soon!) Will need to fix rust and contemplate doing a respray. Reseal the engine, clean detail the engine compartment/underbody, and that's about it - plus, this paint combo screams out for SS1's with GoodyearRWL repro bias ply tires.
Two questions for the Joe P's, Allan R's,Patton G's and others - you know who you are:
1) Yes or no, was U21 a mandatory option with W30? My car has no gauges, but does have the clock.
2) I have on the firewall a Delco voltage regulator with the capacitor. It's a pristine stagger script job with no wires going to it, and nothing cut/missing on the engine wiring harness. The alternator is the internally regulated job. Everything says this is a 442, any ideas why it would be there?
Thanks for reading my long winded post. Cant wait to get started on it!!!!
June 1st, 2014, 09:34 PM
#429
No post yesterday, but did some work with more today (3 hours total)
Finished up the first of the A/C hoses attempted - the compressor discharge to condenser line. Pushed the muffler insulator back onto it and approximated where the short hose insulator piece goes. Will glue it shut in place after the assembly is back in the car.
Next went onto the liquid line. First wire wheeled then cleared the steel end fittings. Next carefully and lightly wire wheeled the crimped parts. Think I saved the OE plating, but cleared them just the same. Removed the two small clamps for detailling. Remarkably, and unlike the other underhood rubber coated clamps I've done, the rubber on these cleaned up perfectly after a wiping down with brake clean. However, I had to use the high heat aluminum paint on the exposed metal parts of the clamps due to the metal being weirdly discolored. Then went back and scotchbrited the tubing, and used the concentrated degreaser on the hose.
Lastly tackled the suction line. The main thing I was trying to save was the gold/green plating color on the big hose to POA nut. Went over it with a Brake Cleaner, when with Carb Cleaner. Not perfect, but unless I want to tear the hose fitting apart, I can't think of any other way to make it better. On this one, the original finish on the tubing and crimping looked good with just a cleaning, so I did not scotch brite or wire wheel them like I did the others. Cleaned the little exposed hose with the degreaser, then cleaned the hose insulation with Tuff Stuff and a light tension brush. Went ahead, and Armor All'ed(?) the insulation only. It has a couple of small tears in the outer skin - not sure I will be able to leave it like this. I welcome anyone's opinion on this after viewing the pic below.
Did a few more misc pieces. Stripped and painted in high heat gloss black the air cleaner hot air tube. It still had the screen inside the tube which I "back flushed" with carb cleaner before painting.
Removed the frozen fittings from the brake distribution block. Wire wheeled the whole thing and found a car correct date code on it. (9 356). Anyone know the correct finish for the distribution block? I didn't find any traces of it under the rust.
Finished up the first of the A/C hoses attempted - the compressor discharge to condenser line. Pushed the muffler insulator back onto it and approximated where the short hose insulator piece goes. Will glue it shut in place after the assembly is back in the car.
Next went onto the liquid line. First wire wheeled then cleared the steel end fittings. Next carefully and lightly wire wheeled the crimped parts. Think I saved the OE plating, but cleared them just the same. Removed the two small clamps for detailling. Remarkably, and unlike the other underhood rubber coated clamps I've done, the rubber on these cleaned up perfectly after a wiping down with brake clean. However, I had to use the high heat aluminum paint on the exposed metal parts of the clamps due to the metal being weirdly discolored. Then went back and scotchbrited the tubing, and used the concentrated degreaser on the hose.
Lastly tackled the suction line. The main thing I was trying to save was the gold/green plating color on the big hose to POA nut. Went over it with a Brake Cleaner, when with Carb Cleaner. Not perfect, but unless I want to tear the hose fitting apart, I can't think of any other way to make it better. On this one, the original finish on the tubing and crimping looked good with just a cleaning, so I did not scotch brite or wire wheel them like I did the others. Cleaned the little exposed hose with the degreaser, then cleaned the hose insulation with Tuff Stuff and a light tension brush. Went ahead, and Armor All'ed(?) the insulation only. It has a couple of small tears in the outer skin - not sure I will be able to leave it like this. I welcome anyone's opinion on this after viewing the pic below.
Did a few more misc pieces. Stripped and painted in high heat gloss black the air cleaner hot air tube. It still had the screen inside the tube which I "back flushed" with carb cleaner before painting.
Removed the frozen fittings from the brake distribution block. Wire wheeled the whole thing and found a car correct date code on it. (9 356). Anyone know the correct finish for the distribution block? I didn't find any traces of it under the rust.
Last edited by costpenn; June 1st, 2014 at 10:06 PM.
June 2nd, 2014, 04:14 PM
#431
Finish line for the individual parts refurb phase is coming into view (6 hours)
Lots of misc parts begun and completed today:
1) Dual Gate shift cable - OK
2) Speedo cable - the original "CR" unit, but I'm on the fence whether it meets my 95% of NOS condition spec to reuse.
3) Accelerator cable - saved some of the original yellow inspection mark.
4) Master Cylinder/Prop Valve lines to dist block. These came out especially nice.
5) Oil Pump drive rod
6) Oil Dipstick tube - stripped only, will paint on the engine.
7) Booster to manifold tube assy. Could not save the OE hose, but did salvage the OE check valve.
8) Vacuum reservoir. Another one that came out NOS looking.
9) Hood latch pull handle
10) The original multi rib radiator overflow hose
11) Radio antenna lead
12) The OE battery tube. It look good if viewed from the top. Another one I am struggling with repainting.
13) Choke Tube - Dipped and wire wheeled. Going to have to ask what color this should be on a W30 manifold
Also finished up the distribution block. Lots of rust there.
Lots of misc parts begun and completed today:
1) Dual Gate shift cable - OK
2) Speedo cable - the original "CR" unit, but I'm on the fence whether it meets my 95% of NOS condition spec to reuse.
3) Accelerator cable - saved some of the original yellow inspection mark.
4) Master Cylinder/Prop Valve lines to dist block. These came out especially nice.
5) Oil Pump drive rod
6) Oil Dipstick tube - stripped only, will paint on the engine.
7) Booster to manifold tube assy. Could not save the OE hose, but did salvage the OE check valve.
8) Vacuum reservoir. Another one that came out NOS looking.
9) Hood latch pull handle
10) The original multi rib radiator overflow hose
11) Radio antenna lead
12) The OE battery tube. It look good if viewed from the top. Another one I am struggling with repainting.
13) Choke Tube - Dipped and wire wheeled. Going to have to ask what color this should be on a W30 manifold
Also finished up the distribution block. Lots of rust there.
Last edited by costpenn; June 3rd, 2014 at 06:44 AM.
June 3rd, 2014, 09:10 PM
#435
A shorter session of odds and ends (2 1/2 hours)
Went by my local independent parts store looking for brake booster to manifold hose. It has a thicker wall than most 3/8" hose. No go on that and the special AGA 25 fuse that gives in the wiring harness. Went to a local NAPA instead, and found both. The booster hose is actually 3/8" heater hose made by Gates - never heard of that small a heater hose diameter before. Interestingly, Gates was the OE supplier of this part. Finished assembling the booster hose assembly - see pic below.
Then moved onto the distributor. With all the recent issues with faked/restamped W30 units, I am very leery of doing anything in the resto process that might be construed as funny business. So, first began by removing the ancient Blue Streak points, condenser and rotor, then removing the aftermarket vacuum advance. After noting the position and extent of the factory blue overspray, I then liberally sprayed the unit with carb cleaner removing built up varnish and gunk. Then used 00 steel wool only on the machined face (where the P/N is) and then green scotch brite on the main body. I might still wind up disassembling the whole thing - have not decided yet.
I had a spare 1111233 distributor that had the correct looking vac. can (with the bend on the nipple) but it had the 408 advance in it. Interestingly, this distributor has a plastic post that goes by the cam on the plate where the points are mounted. My W30 distributor does not have it. Should it, and what does it do?
Went by my local independent parts store looking for brake booster to manifold hose. It has a thicker wall than most 3/8" hose. No go on that and the special AGA 25 fuse that gives in the wiring harness. Went to a local NAPA instead, and found both. The booster hose is actually 3/8" heater hose made by Gates - never heard of that small a heater hose diameter before. Interestingly, Gates was the OE supplier of this part. Finished assembling the booster hose assembly - see pic below.
Then moved onto the distributor. With all the recent issues with faked/restamped W30 units, I am very leery of doing anything in the resto process that might be construed as funny business. So, first began by removing the ancient Blue Streak points, condenser and rotor, then removing the aftermarket vacuum advance. After noting the position and extent of the factory blue overspray, I then liberally sprayed the unit with carb cleaner removing built up varnish and gunk. Then used 00 steel wool only on the machined face (where the P/N is) and then green scotch brite on the main body. I might still wind up disassembling the whole thing - have not decided yet.
I had a spare 1111233 distributor that had the correct looking vac. can (with the bend on the nipple) but it had the 408 advance in it. Interestingly, this distributor has a plastic post that goes by the cam on the plate where the points are mounted. My W30 distributor does not have it. Should it, and what does it do?
Last edited by costpenn; June 3rd, 2014 at 09:22 PM.
June 4th, 2014, 07:23 AM
#436
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2014
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 453
Man, you take the restoration to another level. Maybe your original parts were in better shape then mine but, I had to purchase a lot of NOS/OEM replacements such as the speedo and trans cable. Keep it up. When you think the car will be done (I know these cars are never really done)?
Sean
Sean
June 4th, 2014, 10:40 AM
#437
Man, you take the restoration to another level. Maybe your original parts were in better shape then mine but, I had to purchase a lot of NOS/OEM replacements such as the speedo and trans cable. Keep it up. When you think the car will be done (I know these cars are never really done)?
Sean
Sean
Sean, thanks!
You hit on it - this car was driven 96K miles from 1970 till 1985ish, and then only driven 1300 miles in the last 29 years. The whole time since 85 it has been in covered storage so that's why so many of the OE parts are still on it, and can be reused with just a good cleaning and detailing. It has been the theme since I started to only buy a used or repo part if I cant make the original function as new, and look at least 95% as good as an original NOS part. The 95% is obviously subjective, but I try to see what an NOS part for sale looks like before making that evaluation. Not sure about the completion date, but definitely this year so I can get any bugs/fine tuning done before the Olds Nationals next year in Wisconsin.
By the way, I'm VERY jealous of how awesome your frame came out!
Last edited by costpenn; June 4th, 2014 at 10:42 AM.
June 4th, 2014, 08:42 PM
#438
A troublesome piece resolved - kind of (1/2 hour)
Despite trying every chemical in the garage, nothing I used did much to brighten up the correct used aluminum thermostat housing I got for my car. Reluctantly I decided to paint it with a paint that most closely looks like aluminum, but without the shine that would be a dead give away it was painted. I have about 10 different kinds of silver/aluminum on hand, and after trying them all on a scrap piece of aluminum, decided to use a high heat barbecue paint made by Rustoleum. See below. Sorry Brian & Joe, I gave it Hell...
Despite trying every chemical in the garage, nothing I used did much to brighten up the correct used aluminum thermostat housing I got for my car. Reluctantly I decided to paint it with a paint that most closely looks like aluminum, but without the shine that would be a dead give away it was painted. I have about 10 different kinds of silver/aluminum on hand, and after trying them all on a scrap piece of aluminum, decided to use a high heat barbecue paint made by Rustoleum. See below. Sorry Brian & Joe, I gave it Hell...
June 5th, 2014, 02:06 AM
#439
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Brazil Indiana
Posts: 11,535
I was just there. I simply could not get the correct look. I ended up painting mine also. I will look at the can I used. I have several of these and painted 4 of them, each with a differant aluminum paint. I can't remember what one I ended up using. I did clear it with high temp clear and made it just a little brighter.
June 5th, 2014, 05:17 AM
#440
Thank you Joe. Also, let me know about that vac. advance. Last night, I was reading through the PIM and found out the distributors had a paint code, and suddenly realized that purple paint stripe on the machined surface of mine - which I thought was some kind of weird oxidation - should have been left alone and not cleaned off!!
