Fell Into My Lap - Documented 1970 W-30
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Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,866
From: Carrolllton Texas
Looking great.
I am wondering, If you get the chance to look at this thread. I would be interested to know what style you have and if you know if it is original to your car?
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post713878
I am wondering, If you get the chance to look at this thread. I would be interested to know what style you have and if you know if it is original to your car?
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post713878
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Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,866
From: Carrolllton Texas
Mostly running around town and a little work at the house (2 hours)
Started off the day by finishing the DS front window - all side glasses are now complete. Found another assembly fastener inconsistency. On all the attaching hardware on all the other windows, the plastic washers have been black. On this window, some of them were white in color. (pic below)
Next moved to the interior kick panels. No chalkiness, no scratches, so a good cleaning with Tuff Stuff and a soft bristle brush on the ultrasonic cleaner thing and they are done after a light coat of Armor All.
Went to my local parts store to have a guy melt the plastic out of the driveshaft u-joints. We made a plan to try to save the original u-joint centers and just replace the cups. I pulled the cups off the ones that were already free and they look pretty good.
Went to see progress at the painter. I took the wheel well trims to insure they fit well after all the quarter panel and fender work. Since I rarely get reponses to any of my posts, below is one I posted earlier in the body work forum. It is of the original LH fender front section section and the patch work he is doing to try to save as much of the OE metal as possible.
Received a replacement rear view mirror from ROS6872. Looks great. I had previously bought one on eBay. It was claimed to be perfect and maybe the glass is, but the over polished outer case had a dent in it.
Started off the day by finishing the DS front window - all side glasses are now complete. Found another assembly fastener inconsistency. On all the attaching hardware on all the other windows, the plastic washers have been black. On this window, some of them were white in color. (pic below)
Next moved to the interior kick panels. No chalkiness, no scratches, so a good cleaning with Tuff Stuff and a soft bristle brush on the ultrasonic cleaner thing and they are done after a light coat of Armor All.
Went to my local parts store to have a guy melt the plastic out of the driveshaft u-joints. We made a plan to try to save the original u-joint centers and just replace the cups. I pulled the cups off the ones that were already free and they look pretty good.
Went to see progress at the painter. I took the wheel well trims to insure they fit well after all the quarter panel and fender work. Since I rarely get reponses to any of my posts, below is one I posted earlier in the body work forum. It is of the original LH fender front section section and the patch work he is doing to try to save as much of the OE metal as possible.
Received a replacement rear view mirror from ROS6872. Looks great. I had previously bought one on eBay. It was claimed to be perfect and maybe the glass is, but the over polished outer case had a dent in it.
Last edited by costpenn; Jun 23, 2014 at 09:43 PM.
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Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,866
From: Carrolllton Texas
No garage work today, but major part finally found (0 garage hours)
Picked up my driveshaft after having the u joint retainers melted out. Don't know if I will be able to save the old rear spider because two of the bearing surfaces are pretty worn. I'm going to have Chris look at it and see if there is enough material left to save it or possibly sleeve it back up to the correct OD.
Best news is I have located a very mint appearing dash pad on ebay. I am going to keep my old one since the thing is perfect except for a sag located above the instrument cluster. Maybe someday someone will develop a technique to fix this issue.
Picked up my driveshaft after having the u joint retainers melted out. Don't know if I will be able to save the old rear spider because two of the bearing surfaces are pretty worn. I'm going to have Chris look at it and see if there is enough material left to save it or possibly sleeve it back up to the correct OD.
Best news is I have located a very mint appearing dash pad on ebay. I am going to keep my old one since the thing is perfect except for a sag located above the instrument cluster. Maybe someday someone will develop a technique to fix this issue.
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Posts: 2,866
From: Carrolllton Texas
More miscellaneous stuff, and could not help myself (2 hours)
Received today my jack shaft from Steve Gregori. There was a significant amount of pitting on it, but it came out really nice after polishing.
Not sure about saving the original U joints. Chris thinks they are too far gone. Will post the pic on another thread and get a second opinion.
Received my 427 distributor vacuum advance from Chris Witt (Octania). Cleaned and polished it up. Could not help myself, so I went ahead and installed it on the distributor, and put my NOS looking vintage Delco cap on it. Ahhhhh.... Finally something that looks finished.
Received today my jack shaft from Steve Gregori. There was a significant amount of pitting on it, but it came out really nice after polishing.
Not sure about saving the original U joints. Chris thinks they are too far gone. Will post the pic on another thread and get a second opinion.
Received my 427 distributor vacuum advance from Chris Witt (Octania). Cleaned and polished it up. Could not help myself, so I went ahead and installed it on the distributor, and put my NOS looking vintage Delco cap on it. Ahhhhh.... Finally something that looks finished.
Last edited by costpenn; Jun 25, 2014 at 09:33 PM.
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From: Carrolllton Texas
Put off the driveshaft as long as I could (2 hours)
Only thing done today was 2 hours of sanding the rust off the driveshaft. Still not done, but will be finished prepping by tomorrow with painting tomorrow night. While sanding, I found a haphazard looking paint mark on the rear of the shaft, and also revealed how the paint stripes saved the metal underneath.
Also received my window channel corner with the black squatty triangle from Scott, and confirmed my transmission will be ready for pick up a week from tomorrow. The "OW" converter checked out OK after being drained/flushed.
Only thing done today was 2 hours of sanding the rust off the driveshaft. Still not done, but will be finished prepping by tomorrow with painting tomorrow night. While sanding, I found a haphazard looking paint mark on the rear of the shaft, and also revealed how the paint stripes saved the metal underneath.
Also received my window channel corner with the black squatty triangle from Scott, and confirmed my transmission will be ready for pick up a week from tomorrow. The "OW" converter checked out OK after being drained/flushed.
Last edited by costpenn; Jun 26, 2014 at 08:52 PM.
Lance
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 757
From: YUKON, OK.
Great work!!!
Prop (drive) shaft can be placed into a sealable PVC pipe and filled with a gallon or two of metal rescue or evapo-rust. This will remove the rust without disturbing surface finishes, balance weights, welds, and paint markings.
http://www.metalrescue.com/home.aspx
http://www.evapo-rust.com/
Prop (drive) shaft can be placed into a sealable PVC pipe and filled with a gallon or two of metal rescue or evapo-rust. This will remove the rust without disturbing surface finishes, balance weights, welds, and paint markings.
http://www.metalrescue.com/home.aspx
http://www.evapo-rust.com/
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,866
From: Carrolllton Texas
Great work!!!
Prop (drive) shaft can be placed into a sealable PVC pipe and filled with a gallon or two of metal rescue or evapo-rust. This will remove the rust without disturbing surface finishes, balance weights, welds, and paint markings.
What
http://www.metalrescue.com/home.aspx
[URL]http://www.evapo-rust.com/[URL]
Prop (drive) shaft can be placed into a sealable PVC pipe and filled with a gallon or two of metal rescue or evapo-rust. This will remove the rust without disturbing surface finishes, balance weights, welds, and paint markings.
What
http://www.metalrescue.com/home.aspx
[URL]http://www.evapo-rust.com/[URL]
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Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 530
From: DELCAMBRE, LOUISIANA
paint measurements
hey costpenn would it be possible for u to let me know the measurements of where the 2 paint stripe belong on the drive. from the front of the center of the front u-joint cap to the center of the paint stripes. my shaft was to rusted to know where they belong. need your help
thanks ray
thanks ray
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From: Carrolllton Texas
[QUOTE=NDERISE;715777]hey costpenn would it be possible for u to let me know the measurements of where the 2 paint stripe belong on the drive. from the front of the center of the front u-joint cap to the center of the paint stripes. my shaft was to rusted to know where they belong. need your help
thanks ray[/QUOTE
Ray, below is a response I wrote about a month ago on another thread to someone else who was looking for the same info. Good luck!!
Shaft is original to the car. The original rear GM U-Joint with the strap that holds the cups on during installation is still on the shaft. It has the rear tapered tube.
Distance from the very tip of the front main shaft ear (not the yoke) to the first stripe is 17 5/8 inches. The first stripe on mine looks like two stripes, but if you look carefully you can see paint in the valley between the two lines. Must have been how it was applied that there was little paint in the center of the brush, or that the tension was AFU. First stripe is right at 7/8 inches wide.
Distance to the second stripe from the same measuring point is 21 1/2 inches. This stripe measures at 3/4 inches wide.
Hope it helps
thanks ray[/QUOTE
Ray, below is a response I wrote about a month ago on another thread to someone else who was looking for the same info. Good luck!!
Shaft is original to the car. The original rear GM U-Joint with the strap that holds the cups on during installation is still on the shaft. It has the rear tapered tube.
Distance from the very tip of the front main shaft ear (not the yoke) to the first stripe is 17 5/8 inches. The first stripe on mine looks like two stripes, but if you look carefully you can see paint in the valley between the two lines. Must have been how it was applied that there was little paint in the center of the brush, or that the tension was AFU. First stripe is right at 7/8 inches wide.
Distance to the second stripe from the same measuring point is 21 1/2 inches. This stripe measures at 3/4 inches wide.
Hope it helps
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Posts: 2,866
From: Carrolllton Texas
Glad the driveshaft sanding is over. (2 1/2 hours)
Wish I had a giant lathe. There is rust powder everywhere from all the sanding I did on that thing. Went 80' then 220 and finally 400 grit, and used the wire wheel to get into the yokes, end welds, and around the balancing weights. I was hoping to leave it bare and just clear it, but again I am hung up on using the original parts off this car if at all possible and there is just too much pitting to leave as is after sanding. After wiping it down with brake cleaner I hung it up and shot the main tube in a new Rustoleum "Dark Metal" paint which is a primer and topcoat all in one. To me, it looks a little closer to bare unpolished steel tube than the Stainless Paint I was going to use, but this stuff is taking forever to dry. Once ready, I'm going to paint the end welds with the Krylon Chrome paint, the yokes with the Cast Iron paint, and the balancing weights will be wire wheeled nude again and shot with clear. Lastly, I'll install the U joints and then paint the stripes.
Got my dash in from the ebay auction I won. It is just as promised with no rips, tears or warpage. (looks like it has a sag above the gauges in the pic - it doesn't - that is from the way I posed it and it wont happen again!!) The guy had already painted it in the SEM Landau Black and installed a new dash bead. This is one time where something off ebay has exceeded my expectations.
Tomorrow I get busy prepping to paint all the loose stuff I had stripped at QPC.
Wish I had a giant lathe. There is rust powder everywhere from all the sanding I did on that thing. Went 80' then 220 and finally 400 grit, and used the wire wheel to get into the yokes, end welds, and around the balancing weights. I was hoping to leave it bare and just clear it, but again I am hung up on using the original parts off this car if at all possible and there is just too much pitting to leave as is after sanding. After wiping it down with brake cleaner I hung it up and shot the main tube in a new Rustoleum "Dark Metal" paint which is a primer and topcoat all in one. To me, it looks a little closer to bare unpolished steel tube than the Stainless Paint I was going to use, but this stuff is taking forever to dry. Once ready, I'm going to paint the end welds with the Krylon Chrome paint, the yokes with the Cast Iron paint, and the balancing weights will be wire wheeled nude again and shot with clear. Lastly, I'll install the U joints and then paint the stripes.
Got my dash in from the ebay auction I won. It is just as promised with no rips, tears or warpage. (looks like it has a sag above the gauges in the pic - it doesn't - that is from the way I posed it and it wont happen again!!) The guy had already painted it in the SEM Landau Black and installed a new dash bead. This is one time where something off ebay has exceeded my expectations.
Tomorrow I get busy prepping to paint all the loose stuff I had stripped at QPC.
Last edited by costpenn; Jun 27, 2014 at 10:26 PM.
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From: Carrolllton Texas
Driveshaft completed (2 hours)
As noted last entry, today I finished the driveshaft. Finished the detail painting, assembled the front yoke, and painted the stripes. I have no idea how close my brown and blue are to the original shades. The chrome paint did an excellent job of simulating the welds.
As noted last entry, today I finished the driveshaft. Finished the detail painting, assembled the front yoke, and painted the stripes. I have no idea how close my brown and blue are to the original shades. The chrome paint did an excellent job of simulating the welds.
Last edited by costpenn; Jun 28, 2014 at 08:22 PM.
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Joined: Dec 2012
Posts: 530
From: DELCAMBRE, LOUISIANA
[QUOTE=costpenn;715795]
THANKS I MUST HAVE MISS THAT THREAD
hey costpenn would it be possible for u to let me know the measurements of where the 2 paint stripe belong on the drive. from the front of the center of the front u-joint cap to the center of the paint stripes. my shaft was to rusted to know where they belong. need your help
thanks ray[/QUOTE
Ray, below is a response I wrote about a month ago on another thread to someone else who was looking for the same info. Good luck!!
thanks ray[/QUOTE
Ray, below is a response I wrote about a month ago on another thread to someone else who was looking for the same info. Good luck!!
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Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,866
From: Carrolllton Texas
Prepping & painting parts day, and an injury to boot (4 hours total)
Finally got started on this task. Back in April I had a bunch of misc parts beadblasted and now it is time to paint. The surface finish the parts got is too rough to paint over, so each item is having to be either wirewheeled or hand sanded before being painted. A list of what was done:
Bumper jack hook - hand sanded with 400 grit, painted in a special Dove gray paint
6 front bumper bracing tubes - all wirewheeled and painted with Eastwood's Extreme Chassis Satin
A/C condenser brackets - wirewheeled exterior, hand sanded interior and painted Duplicolor Dull Aluminum. (These are pretty badly pitted in places)
Brake pedal - wire wheeled and painted upper section Clear Zinc, lower section with the Ford Semi Gloss Black
The "dash support thing that the brake pedal attaches to and brake booster bolts to" - wirewheeled/Hand sanded bottom facing side only, painted the whole thing in the Silver Cad paint
455 fender braces - wirewheeled, then painted the integral bolts in the phosphate color, the tubes themselves in Duplicolor semi gloss bumper paint.
Jack base - wirewheeled and hand sanded, painted in Eastwood's extreme Chassis Gloss Black. Did not like the way this turned out, so shot a coat of the satin black on top. Much better.
Back drive rod - wirewheeled and - whoops..... Somehow the wheel got caught on the rod, lifted the machine up off the table (I did not have it bolted down) and pitched it over where it did a very nice job of "deep cleaning" some of my skin on my left inner forearm. It removed a lot of skin - looks like I fell off a bike at 90 mph with no riding leathers on. Will need to figure out a way of keeping it clean until it heals.
Finally got started on this task. Back in April I had a bunch of misc parts beadblasted and now it is time to paint. The surface finish the parts got is too rough to paint over, so each item is having to be either wirewheeled or hand sanded before being painted. A list of what was done:
Bumper jack hook - hand sanded with 400 grit, painted in a special Dove gray paint
6 front bumper bracing tubes - all wirewheeled and painted with Eastwood's Extreme Chassis Satin
A/C condenser brackets - wirewheeled exterior, hand sanded interior and painted Duplicolor Dull Aluminum. (These are pretty badly pitted in places)
Brake pedal - wire wheeled and painted upper section Clear Zinc, lower section with the Ford Semi Gloss Black
The "dash support thing that the brake pedal attaches to and brake booster bolts to" - wirewheeled/Hand sanded bottom facing side only, painted the whole thing in the Silver Cad paint
455 fender braces - wirewheeled, then painted the integral bolts in the phosphate color, the tubes themselves in Duplicolor semi gloss bumper paint.
Jack base - wirewheeled and hand sanded, painted in Eastwood's extreme Chassis Gloss Black. Did not like the way this turned out, so shot a coat of the satin black on top. Much better.
Back drive rod - wirewheeled and - whoops..... Somehow the wheel got caught on the rod, lifted the machine up off the table (I did not have it bolted down) and pitched it over where it did a very nice job of "deep cleaning" some of my skin on my left inner forearm. It removed a lot of skin - looks like I fell off a bike at 90 mph with no riding leathers on. Will need to figure out a way of keeping it clean until it heals.
Last edited by costpenn; Jul 2, 2014 at 07:35 AM.
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From: Carrolllton Texas
Goodies came in but I'm out of action (0 hours)
Received a RF wheel well trim and two excellent used amber marker lights from Tim today. This guy (69442murph) is a class act to do biz with. New pics posted on my FB page about the body shop's progress on my car. Looks like two weeks still till I can go and drag back my frame to get started on it.
Plenty of time to get things laid out the way I want in order to improve the process. Chris D. has made a fixture to hold the intake manifold while he fly cuts the intake surface level. LH front (around #1 cylinder) is pretty wavy.
Received a RF wheel well trim and two excellent used amber marker lights from Tim today. This guy (69442murph) is a class act to do biz with. New pics posted on my FB page about the body shop's progress on my car. Looks like two weeks still till I can go and drag back my frame to get started on it.
Plenty of time to get things laid out the way I want in order to improve the process. Chris D. has made a fixture to hold the intake manifold while he fly cuts the intake surface level. LH front (around #1 cylinder) is pretty wavy.
Last edited by costpenn; Jul 2, 2014 at 07:35 AM.
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From: Carrolllton Texas
Happy Birthday America (4 hours total today)
Still working my pile of parts needing to be painted. All were wire wheeled (carefully!) and hand sanded as needed
Hood pop up spring - Eastwood's zinc phosphate
Back drive rods, hood release connecting rod - Chrome paint first, then light coat of the Eastwood Clear Zinc
Brake light switch bracket, a/c dryer brackets - Detail Gray
'70 fuel tank neck bracket, fuel tank vent bracket - Eastwood Silver Cad
Also prepped for paint the jack mech, and jack handle mounting clips. Don't know what to do about the license plate frame.
Also refinished the last trim piece I needed - the RF wheel well trim supplied by Tim.
Finally cleaned and detailed the TH400 harness clip. This thing is brittle and very delicate. I hope I can reattach it without it breaking.
Still working my pile of parts needing to be painted. All were wire wheeled (carefully!) and hand sanded as needed
Hood pop up spring - Eastwood's zinc phosphate
Back drive rods, hood release connecting rod - Chrome paint first, then light coat of the Eastwood Clear Zinc
Brake light switch bracket, a/c dryer brackets - Detail Gray
'70 fuel tank neck bracket, fuel tank vent bracket - Eastwood Silver Cad
Also prepped for paint the jack mech, and jack handle mounting clips. Don't know what to do about the license plate frame.
Also refinished the last trim piece I needed - the RF wheel well trim supplied by Tim.
Finally cleaned and detailed the TH400 harness clip. This thing is brittle and very delicate. I hope I can reattach it without it breaking.
Last edited by costpenn; Jul 4, 2014 at 06:02 PM.
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From: Carrolllton Texas
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From: Raleigh NC
Glad to see you finally found a dashpad. Was it always black or did they change colors when they sprayed it? My brother has a 69 Chevelle and they sprayed his from green to black and depending on how the sun hits it you can see the green come through
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Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 1,412
From: maryland
I would also find an original if yours don't work out. I can spot a repop from 20' away at a car show. I don't know if all repops are the same but the one I got for a 72 Cutlass was not stamped even close to the look of the original. I don't know if I have any more pit free ones but if I do I would give it to you for the price of shipping.
Ha!!!! Someone else besides me HATES these POS boosters and I have one on one of my cars!!! I'm almost embarrassed to open my hood. Seriously thinking of taking the entire booster idea and putting it "where the sun don't shine". I have a pretty clean original to have replated. I'll call Jerry MacNeish (big Camaro guy that I'm friends with, he also does outstanding aluminum work and does all of my Muncies), and see if he uses Steve or someone else. Man, those aftermarket boosters are hokey!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Posts: 1,412
From: maryland
Back To Work!! (4 hours)
Thanks to Joe for coming up to the Autorama all the way from Houston. Pleasure meeting you and your family. I think I know what you're going to say, but that red W-30 beat both Larry's Bamboo car and mine, but we still won something.
Bought new unissued 70 license plates and 70 Texas inspection sticker at the show. Those things have gone up a lot since the last time I needed one.
Today I filled in with semi flat black the 1 2 3 depressions on the Dual Gate plate, the ring in the end of the turn signal ****, and the ring in the remote control mirror ****. Painted with ultra flat black the light diffuser housing thing that goes in the dash.
Then back to the drudgery of bolts. Random items done were the trunk lock and hardware, a thousand (it seems like) rear bumper bolts, front park light bolts, license plate light and holder bolts, all front and rear lens screws, headlamp buckets to support, and a bunch more. I'm proud of the fact that I'm reusing just about every bolt came on the car, and the few that are too far gone I'm replacing with AMK sourced items or correct mark matching used bolts from my stash.
Below see the wire wheel I had to break down and replace today. I think I got my use out of the one on the right
Thanks to Joe for coming up to the Autorama all the way from Houston. Pleasure meeting you and your family. I think I know what you're going to say, but that red W-30 beat both Larry's Bamboo car and mine, but we still won something.
Bought new unissued 70 license plates and 70 Texas inspection sticker at the show. Those things have gone up a lot since the last time I needed one.
Today I filled in with semi flat black the 1 2 3 depressions on the Dual Gate plate, the ring in the end of the turn signal ****, and the ring in the remote control mirror ****. Painted with ultra flat black the light diffuser housing thing that goes in the dash.
Then back to the drudgery of bolts. Random items done were the trunk lock and hardware, a thousand (it seems like) rear bumper bolts, front park light bolts, license plate light and holder bolts, all front and rear lens screws, headlamp buckets to support, and a bunch more. I'm proud of the fact that I'm reusing just about every bolt came on the car, and the few that are too far gone I'm replacing with AMK sourced items or correct mark matching used bolts from my stash.
Below see the wire wheel I had to break down and replace today. I think I got my use out of the one on the right
That looks just like the wire wheel in my bench grinder!!! The used one that is!!!!
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Posts: 1,412
From: maryland
Not that you probably already did not know the time it takes to do a car nice...many don't. Most have NO idea the hours involved to make a car shine. People up here have the $3500 paint job mentality and they want to pop the hood and inside of trunk and have it be stellar like your car will be. It is frustrating. Keep up the great work!! (As a side note, the last car I did for myself I did give in and buy a engine harness from M&H electric, and I was very pleased.Brighter colored wires i feel from original but HOURS saved cleaning with thinner all the old grime/paint and re-wrapping cloth tape.)
I bought a new harness from H&H and two of the black wires were installed backwards. Talk about frustrating!!! I had to remove the new harness and compare it to the old harness at the pig-tail to figure out why the horn would not stop blowing.
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Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 3,210
From: St Augustine
This guy does booster plating using mil-spec " back in the day" EPA non compliant plating.
http://www.supersportsales.net/
Beautiful work, looks like OEM.
http://www.supersportsales.net/
Beautiful work, looks like OEM.
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Posts: 2,866
From: Carrolllton Texas
John, it's an originally black pad. I held out until this one came along on ebay. It was about 290.00 delivered to my house with a new chrome bead molding already installed. It can be installed as is with just a little cleaning.
Thread Starter
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Posts: 2,866
From: Carrolllton Texas
This guy does booster plating using mil-spec " back in the day" EPA non compliant plating.
http://www.supersportsales.net/
Beautiful work, looks like OEM.
http://www.supersportsales.net/
Beautiful work, looks like OEM.
Thread Starter
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Posts: 2,866
From: Carrolllton Texas
Some work yesterday, and more today (total 6 hours)
Still working the part painting for the parts I sent off to be blasted. I WILL finish this tomorrow in one giant marathon session.
Bumper jack, mechanism, and hook. Am going to have to strip these and start all over. The color I used dried very oddly with a fabric look to the finish as well as drying a lot lighter in color than indicated on the car. Had enough Plasti Kote Dove Gray to do the jack handle. Have to find more for the three other pieces.
Went on and either wire wheeled other hand sanded the following parts:
Lifter valley splash guard thing, engine lift hook, timing mark indicator - painted a light coat of clear.
Rear marker light brackets, P/S pump bracket base - Eastwood Satin Chassis paint
A/C compressor to water pump brace - Ford Semi Gloss back
Glovebox hinge - Eastwood Gloss Chassis black (did not like this at all)
Steering column to firewall bracket halves - detail Gray
Two parts that after bead blasting ain't going to cut it
1) Front Marker brackets - too much pitting
2) Fuel tank neck to bracket clamp (worm gear style) it is pitted and distorted.
Still working the part painting for the parts I sent off to be blasted. I WILL finish this tomorrow in one giant marathon session.
Bumper jack, mechanism, and hook. Am going to have to strip these and start all over. The color I used dried very oddly with a fabric look to the finish as well as drying a lot lighter in color than indicated on the car. Had enough Plasti Kote Dove Gray to do the jack handle. Have to find more for the three other pieces.
Went on and either wire wheeled other hand sanded the following parts:
Lifter valley splash guard thing, engine lift hook, timing mark indicator - painted a light coat of clear.
Rear marker light brackets, P/S pump bracket base - Eastwood Satin Chassis paint
A/C compressor to water pump brace - Ford Semi Gloss back
Glovebox hinge - Eastwood Gloss Chassis black (did not like this at all)
Steering column to firewall bracket halves - detail Gray
Two parts that after bead blasting ain't going to cut it
1) Front Marker brackets - too much pitting
2) Fuel tank neck to bracket clamp (worm gear style) it is pitted and distorted.
Last edited by costpenn; Jul 6, 2014 at 05:50 PM.
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From: Brazil Indiana
Thread Starter
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From: Carrolllton Texas
Sold Eric - would you also have that clamp in similar condition?
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From: Carrolllton Texas
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Posts: 1,412
From: maryland
I learned about the RustEum and BarBQue paints some time ago. When you can produce the desire effect for 1/3 of the price of the so-called "Restoration Products", life is good. There are many different hues and shades available if you take the time to experiment.
Costpenn, your attention to detail is commendable. Is there a thread on the restoration of your '72?
Costpenn, your attention to detail is commendable. Is there a thread on the restoration of your '72?
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,866
From: Carrolllton Texas
I learned about the RustEum and BarBQue paints some time ago. When you can produce the desire effect for 1/3 of the price of the so-called "Restoration Products", life is good. There are many different hues and shades available if you take the time to experiment.
Costpenn, your attention to detail is commendable. Is there a thread on the restoration of your '72?
Costpenn, your attention to detail is commendable. Is there a thread on the restoration of your '72?
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...owballing.html
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,866
From: Carrolllton Texas
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 2,866
From: Carrolllton Texas
Long Monday work section - still not done on part painting (6 hours)
Began by hanging my brackets on the condenser and finally using some of the fasteners I finished months ago. Nice seeing a finished unit every now and then.
Parts finished today grouped by finish color:
Eastwood Extreme Chassis Satin Black - front bumper brackets, alternator brackets, glovebox hinge (rework)
Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black Gloss - OAI hood pin brackets
Duplicolor Ford Semi Gloss Black - engine pullies, A/C compressor brackets
Light coat of clear - Harmonic Balancer
Ford Gray - Bumper jack parts. Not going to cut it. The cap matched the sample I had of Dove Gray, but the paint turned out much darker. The jack handle was already done in the correct Dove Gray so I have something completed to compare it to. Will have to redo them again for the third time.
I got the upper radiator hold down plate ready for paint. The rear bumper brackets are also sanded down, but I am going to have to do work on filling in some of the pits before paint. Last things to sand and paint I have not yet done are the fan, air cleaner housing and of all things, the starter support strap/bracket.
Chris brought my exhaust manifolds back. He removed the crystallized remains of all four broken off header pipe mounting screws, and turned down the mounting flanges which were badly deteriorated. They had been leaking there a lot - hopefully this will seal it up. I am going to send these off to QPC to get them jet coated. Chris had this done on his long branch 421 manifolds and they look great and correct (to me)
Began by hanging my brackets on the condenser and finally using some of the fasteners I finished months ago. Nice seeing a finished unit every now and then.
Parts finished today grouped by finish color:
Eastwood Extreme Chassis Satin Black - front bumper brackets, alternator brackets, glovebox hinge (rework)
Eastwood Extreme Chassis Black Gloss - OAI hood pin brackets
Duplicolor Ford Semi Gloss Black - engine pullies, A/C compressor brackets
Light coat of clear - Harmonic Balancer
Ford Gray - Bumper jack parts. Not going to cut it. The cap matched the sample I had of Dove Gray, but the paint turned out much darker. The jack handle was already done in the correct Dove Gray so I have something completed to compare it to. Will have to redo them again for the third time.
I got the upper radiator hold down plate ready for paint. The rear bumper brackets are also sanded down, but I am going to have to do work on filling in some of the pits before paint. Last things to sand and paint I have not yet done are the fan, air cleaner housing and of all things, the starter support strap/bracket.
Chris brought my exhaust manifolds back. He removed the crystallized remains of all four broken off header pipe mounting screws, and turned down the mounting flanges which were badly deteriorated. They had been leaking there a lot - hopefully this will seal it up. I am going to send these off to QPC to get them jet coated. Chris had this done on his long branch 421 manifolds and they look great and correct (to me)
Last edited by costpenn; Jul 7, 2014 at 08:59 PM.
