The last lineon your car is 212 degrees and the middle is 180 degrees. Are the gauges you installed repros and which senders did you use?

Both of cars came with ralley packs from the factory and have the original senders.

On my cars the first 1/4 mark is approx 180 to 190 degrees, the middle mark is approx. 220 degrees and the last line is 240 degrees.

For my oil pressure gauge the top line is 80 psi.

I have seen with certain senders were the calibration id different have the gauge read different.

 

You are lucky to still have the original senders. It would make sense that the HOT line would be 240-250*.
My gauges are repros and the senders are BW units from the parts store.
Details on the senders can be had here:
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...rally-pac.html

If anyone had NOS or good used senders, I would love to get them.

 

Great job Rob. Glad to see you had a great day enjoying the "new" ride.

 

Beautiful car and beautiful scenery. Nice lake. It looks like a nice place to live. I have to scrape the ice off my windows every morning here now. Glad you got to put some time and miles on her. 4 seconds on the start crank is nothing. Don't crank for over 15 seconds. If you crank it that long give the starter a few minutes between cranks to cool or it may fail.

 

So just when you thought this thread was dead, it revives!

I am now in the planning phase for the A/C and front clip resto.
First thing is to disassemble the front clip - lights, grilles, bumper and brackets, etc.
Final big part to pull would be the radiator support!

So question - CAN the radiator support be pulled while the fenders and hood are still mounted? I thought someone said it could, but I do not want to risk damaging anything. Given the tight space I have to work in, and lack of patience, fenders cannot come off. Hood might be able to come off if really need be...

 

I'm sure a flat rate tech could do it but you probably wouldn't want to watch.

 

Only thing that would support it is the inner fenderwells, the two rear bolts would take all the stress, not sure that's a good idea. It would probably 'lean', and wouldn't go back together right.

Guess you could build some support braces, but the amount of effort wouldn't be worth it. With the inners out, you really don't need much room, could almost lift them straight up (fenders).

Do you need to take them off?

.

 

No - no need (or want) to take the fenders off. Inner wheelwells are in there already.
I might consider building some wood supports to go in the wheelwells, and maybe support the front of the hood from rope off the ceiling. Or just pull the hood - I would be willing to do that.
I need to look into this further...

 

Well, the weight of the hood would add to stressing it all, and think that would be a minimum. Pulling the hood is cake. Throw a piece of cardboard on the roof, two people walk the hood back and leave it on the cardboard, no problem.

Only area you can really get to by taking the core support off is the frame rails, and you could do that by doing one side at a time if you wanted. Oh, you can get to the area where the core support bushing itself is contacting the core support, but that you can do one side at a time.

.

 

I tried this last week!

wanted to install my grilles, so had the bright idea of taking the core support out. HAH.

You shoulda seen me trying to put that sucker back in. I had to use an array of 2x4 and screw mechanisms to get the stupid thing aligned.

Truth be told. i will now be wire wheeling/painting my core support while in the car.

 

BTW, that black smudge by the heat pipe is an exhaust leak. I kept blowing gaskets at the same point. Now if only I could remember what I did to stop them! I think I found metal gaskets somewhere - I had been making my own with the Mr Gasket exhaust gasket material.

I think removing the core with the fenders on would be rather difficult and particularly hard to get reassembled and realigned. If you want to see a completely bare A-body front end just let me know. I have my project car completely gutted right now and I'm in the smack-dab middle of Plano.

 

really , I just put mine back in where it came from actually that was one of the mistakes I made , I think you have to get the fenders / hood aligned before tightening the core support down.

 

If you pull your core support save the original bushings, new ones will raise the front clip, and make alignment more than a little difficult.

 

Yes Rob, Patton threw that in the ring in a previous discussion. Apparently it's possible. You will have enough structural support in the fender from the rear mounts and the inner liners (ref: 72 AM) that you can undo the front bolts holding the rad support in place. I've also been looking at this over the past few weeks because I want to pull mine, + redo my front stone shield and grills. While they're out I plan to re-finish my bumper supports and brackets, front marker lights, and finish up the front frame that I didn't get last fall. My rad support however is in very good shape with almost no rust, so it might be a lot easier than I thought.

You know bud, while you've got the hood off and the rad/support out .... REALLY, how much harder is it to pull the motor and finish it off right?

I thought those pucks were pretty much the right size. Don't they compress somewhat when torqued? I am ordering replacements anyway and will see how much different they are when the originals come out. The bolts for the bushings are crap though, and I will definitely replace them. thx for the heads up though about alignment. I don't get why it would cause a serious alignment issue since the fenders are staying on. LMK what I'm missing ok?

 

I just bought a set of core bushings from ILT and they look identical to the originals that I removed. I'll take some pictures when I get home from work and post them for comparison.
Gary

 

The front clip hangs off the core support, and the new bushings may not compress to the same thickness as your 40 year old bushings...the issue I have seen is trying to achieve the same fender to door gap with new bushings.

 

Pull the engine....... Pull the engine........

Or pull the body from around the engine, sugar in your coffee, coffee in your sugar, it all amounts to the same in the end

 

Who knew that changing a core support bushing could lead to a complete frame off restoration
Gary

 

Core support bushing pictures
Gary

 

Wow – MANY informative comments were made here. Thank you!!


I was almost ready to order new rad support bushings but glad I did not.

I need to come up with a battle plan!





But man – what a dangerous thread this has become!!
I had to run away when I saw hints of PULLING THE ENGINE and PULLING THE BODY!!!

As a result, I had to go downstairs to the lab and come up with a reliable way to keep those Might-As-Wells (MAW’s) away from my brain!!

As a result, I have come up with the ultimate weapon against these dreaded MAW’s. It was so successful, I am now selling them!

 

Are you the victim of the “Might-As-Well” blues?

Have your buddies tried to convince you to pull a car body from its frame just to replace one bushing?

Have you been ridiculed by your friends because you did not pull the engine just to paint the radiator?

Have you started a frame-off due to worn brake pads?

Have you gone to replace a toilet flapper, only to replace everything in the tank and end up with new leaks you did not have to begin with?

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In our tests, the engine-pulling MAW went right through the cheap foil hats. Not only had the engine been pulled, but it was reassembled wrong and resulted in spun bearings and lot of rework costs!
However that same MAW made only the slightest scratch in Rob’s new Super Might-As-Well Deflector Helmet. As a result, only the radiator was repainted and no other damage was done!!

How much would you pay for this exciting technology?? Wait there’s more!!


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Rotflmao

 

Why YES!! YES I am....Tell me more.....

Sure enough!!! How did you know??? Say, weren't YOU the sadistic 'buddy' who tried to convince me to do all this stuff?? Why YES, YES it was YOU!!!

HOLY SOCKS!!! You been peeking at my plumbing too???

As the inventor of the tin foil MAW protection plan I now have no choice but to file for patent infringement.

I 'Might as Well' order one. WAIT, just a second. (theme from Jeopardy plays in the background.....) AND I'M back!!

I almost fell prey to the elusive MAW trick infomercial. To avoid spammers of this nature, all you need is a can or bottle filled with Brighteyed Effervesent Electromagnetic Reducer (B.E.E.R) to ward off silliness from others. At the same time it's guaranteed to make you smarter too. We proudly submit our candidate Cliff Claven and his Buffalo theory on Brain Cells as proof positive you don't need anything but B.E.E.R. to make better decisions.

Beware of imitators; it's such an open market......

 

Nice job, Rob!

Though I must say, Allen, it's awful hard to say anything bad about B.E.E.R.!

- Eric

 

Or that's, 1-800-545-5629 for those of you without a touch-tone telephone.

Just saying, some of us still have rotary phones with the letters worn out.

 

??? Are you kidding me??? Next you're going to say that when you run out of battery power you use an abicus to do your math??

That's scarey man! By the token of out dated technology you could end up using just rocks and sticks to work on your Cutlass - that would just never do.

BTW Tony, have a look at this link. I'm guessing it's what you're aiming for down the road? https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...t-finally.html
Even the same color!!!

 

Yep. Sounds like you could have used Rob's Super MAW Deflector Helmet!
You might should order one before your next project...

I could have used a helmet this past Friday, to save me from myself.
My inner-self told me that I would find the meaning of life in that toilet, but all I got was the meaning of the word "gullible!"

I never saw the product in action on the market - tough cookies. PROVE you have such product!


Right! B.E.E.R. and pain meds allow me to come up with these OUTSTANDING uncoveries!!

Yep! Rob has one on the table in the front hallway! Weighs about 10 pounds, still works, has no worn numbers/letters, and puts out a deafening metallic RING! They made stuff to last back then...

 

Naw, now that I can be protected by B.E.E.R. I don't need one! However the downside of B.E.E.R. protection is the more you less the have guarantee stuffs will be together putted the sposed way ti wuz ment to!

My inner self tells me you found out the meaning of life was just a bunch of 'crap' . Now what you need is AL's T.U.R.D. flush. Goorannnteeeeed to 'run' circles around your pooper flusher. Instructions not included We are so confident you will be able to 'engineer' the required 'solution' to your bypass problem, we don't even offer a catalogue or guarantee. My factory boss calls this 'idiot proof marketing'.

 

As Allan mentioned above, the radiator support can be pulled while leaving the other parts on, hood, fenders, wheelwells, etc. Did it about a year ago on a '70 W30 convert without any help pulling it or reinstalling it, although an extra set of hands would probably come in handy.

Resist the urge to go much further unless you don't like driving your car for some reason (not the impression I get from your threads).

You've been warned.

 

wowsers Rob , great pictures , and Lady turned out real nice ! You must be proud of what you accomplished ! and if you get bored you can always drive her down to Wisconsin and help me with my car !

PS .... bring some money with you !

 

Patton,
You must have replaced the support bushings and bolts? Do you have any recommendations about who has the best aftermarket ones?

 

Yep, to say the best... And Lowes' tank bolt sets are CRAP, too! The gasket seals are hard plastic that are hard to seal. And the instructions are so bad that if you'd actually follow them, you would break the dang tank! Stupid things finally sealed magically overnight...
Odd part about all this is that all the connections that were under pressure had no leaks...

Sorry, don't need that. All I have to do is ask my neighbor for a bowl of his infamous "Intestinal Express" chilli...

Warning accepted! Luckily, I cannot go too much further on the front end, as most all was restored now. Looks like I will reuse the core support mounts to avoid pulling the body to change all the mounts to keep everything aligned...
And yes, I do like to drive her!

Thanks! It will be a long, hard drive DOWN there. At least Lady will blend in with the snow to hide me from the polar bears...

 

We re-used the mounts that were in the car as they were in nice shape (they had been put on the car when it was restored many years ago, car is hardly driven so no rust, etc).

I'd go with Fusick or ILT....can't really give a good opinion however as I've never done the side-by-side comparison. With that said I think ILT now as a more correct setup if you get their mounting hardware for the mounts. Fusick puts generic yellow zinc plated bolts in their set and I'm pretty sure ILT has stepped it up a notch by offering more factory-like hardware if that's a concern (bolt head marking, etc). I suspect the rubber mounts from those two are probably the same dimensions, etc.

 

These are a side by side of the original and ILT bushings.
ILT also sells the hardeware for the core bushings,the bolt is longer and does'nt have the shoulder like the original though.
Gary

 

Those are great comparison shots Gary. My bolts are probably about the same condition so I'll just order the whole package and put in all new. Will likely fit and thread nicer too. I'm thinking there will be a small amount of compression when they are properly torqued. thx again.

 

You should replace all the body mounts to guarantee that the fenders will line up at the doors afterwards...

 

And while you're doing that...

- Eric

 

You know that I'm already all over that. I just finished taking the front clip off today and I'll be lifting the body off her tommorrow... . Wake me when it's over

Ok who's da wise guys here??? Ya want I shud go find Vinny??? He'll pop that silly grin offa botha yer faces....

I'm reading your posts and totally protected by B.E.E.R.!

 

Beautiful car, sir!

 

Thanks! She tries her darnest to be the center of attention...