This is not the beginning of this restoration. I have had this car now sense 1990.
After a few years of trying to buy this car I was finally able to buy it from a man here in Dallas for 1300.00,she is a all numbers matching 350 4 speed car,full gage and tachometer, electric drivers seat, hood lock, trunk release,and with all the history. After making her road worthy I drove it for a few years.
I sold this car to a Friend of mine on a payment plan and after two years he had payed about 2000.00 and could not complete the deal and returned the car to me. I some how fell in love with this car and made the decision to never sell it.
I have restored the frame completely about four or five years ago. the frame is all powder coated as is the rear end,box control arms, sway bar and front suspension.
I now have the car in a body shop in Ovilla Texas.
Here are a few picks before the body shop started. I will add more as things progress.
Please feel free to add your comments or advice as things move along.
Thank you.

 

Here are a few more pics for you.

 

Keep the pictures coming
John

 

I sure will John, I plan on going to my shop on Sunday to remove all the un-needed metal from the quarter panel I got from you. I think it will be like a n o s quarter when I am done.

I have never taken a car down this far John, and I must admit the wiring in the dash is a little intimidating to say the least.

 

I have a 1969 oldsmobile cutlass, and it is a project. Best of luck on your car!

 

Thank you, and back at you.

 

Do you know if this car originally came with the factory W-29/442 option or is it a Cutlass with 442 emblems and grilles that someone added later?

It looks like it might've had the factory Cutlass body side and rocker mouldings on it.

 

I have seen some real strange 72 442's, that I know to be original, and this is one of them. I bought it from the second owner and have spoken with the original owner about this car.
I was puzzled too, at first, but the original owner cleared all of that up for me.
This car is the way it was from the dealership,but still, I wonder about the stripes. In the assembly man, it shows that stripe to be canceled, but all of the paint is original, and so is the stripe. I will be adding the correct 442 stripe.
The vinyl top was a dealer add on,this will not go back on.
I know of a orange 72 442 that is still in the original owners possession, and it is a 350 two bbl, bench with auto on the column, single exhaust and it has the same cutlass trim on it too!
With the 72 442 it's hard telling what you will find.

 

Interesting. With some original documentation one might entertain the idea of keeping it as it came from the factory, i.e. with the Cutlass side pinstripes (Y70 i think) and the side mouldings. I remember an article on an original '72 Cutlass with W29/442 option in the Journey With Olds mag that had the striping down the middle of the hood like the '71 442 non-OAI.

 

Some progress, I got my frame back yesterday. I need to install the brake and fuel lines, and hopefully the engine and trans before the body is done.

 

Just a few of the frame.

 

More pics of the frame.

 

You feel great when you make some progress - even better now that it is finally beginning to cool off outside....

 

You are so right! The heat has been too much,I get home and don't feel like doing anything.

 

A few more pics that I forgot to post

 

I went to the body shop again today, so posting more pictures. Last night I installed my brake lines.I started to install my fuel lines too, but found that I do not have the return fuel line, so I had to stop for the night.

 

More pics

 

That is going to be one very nice car when it is done! i sold him the driverside QTR and am very happy that it will be used on a high end car! The work looks beautiful! Keep at it. It will be done sooner than you think. I really hope to meet you some day soon. It is about time for me to visit my friend in Dallas.

Keep the pics coming! Love it!

 

Nice looking build. Can you post some detail shots of the FE2 suspension? I need to see how the stiffeners bolt to the chassis and rear control arms. It's on my project to do list. thx.

 

Thank you, I will look forward to meeting you, You were a big help to me with this build.

 

I sure will, and thank you for the feed back!

 

A few shots of the rear FE2 suspension.

 

A few more pics of the suspension.

 

Excellent photos. That is exactly what I was looking for. In your opinion, would it be hard to install the braces with the body on the car, and while it is up on jack stands? I also need to install my boxed control arms and rear sway bar. Lots to do while it's in the air.

 

Sorry I am just now getting back to you, this one got past me!
I am somewhat of a purest, but I am putting this back as it should have been if GM would have had it together in 72.

 

No, I think it will go easy for you. I think you should start applying a penetrating oil on the bolts now to make things come loose with less trouble.
Is your car a 455,if so do you have the front fender braces?

 

Not at all. I installed mine the same way. Everything just bolted right up.

 

I also installed the front fender braces. I did however have to tweek the passenger side just a little for the inner fenderwell. Aftermarket?

 

Very nice build, looks great! What are you doing with the engine
Rob.

 

Thank you Rob.
A factory outer appearance, but as much hp as I can get out of it,with in reason.

 

How's the build going? - I finally put up a final pick of my 70 for ya.

Hope you are doing well

Doug

 

Yes, I've learned the power of penetrating fluid when I was dealing with my front suspension bolts. Unfortunately I do not have a 455. Started a teardown on one earlier this year and the block was cracked - not repairable. So for right now I'm going to stick with the 350. No front braces since I don't have all that torque.

I just have to suck in my gut a bit when I go under the car. It (the car frame) is only off the ground about 13 or 14 inches. There appears to be plenty of room up from the LCA to the body mount area, and it appears there may already be a bolt in the hole I need to mount the brace. I haven't changed LCAs before. I read Rob's thread when he did his, but at the time his was driveable; mine isn't. Do you have any suggestions or tips to make the job go smoother and quicker?

 

I stopped by the body shop today,things are moving slow,but I'm ok with that.
I have started my engine build now for this car, it looks like the timing chain was about gone.

 

This engine has never been apart, But I found next to no ring grove. The timing chain looks scary though.

 

Do you mind a suggestion? Since you're at the stage where the car could be going for paint fairly soon, I'd have them drill the door and front A pillar for a power accessory boot. I regret not having that done when I did my car. Now that I have PW and PDL to go in, I have to take the doors off to drill the necessary holes. The hole is about 1.75" and I believe there are 3 screws that also secure the boot. Don't know what your plans are for this car, but it's just a thought.

 

Good call Allan!
I'm doing that next week, I am a purest in allot of ways, but I will add a few G M extras.

I have been collecting things for this car for a long time now, the power windows and locks were at the top of my list.

 

Kevin, Allen
I've got a spare door that has what I believe to be the factory hole for power windows/locks. If you'd like I could take some pictures and measurements of the size and location. John

 

That would be great John. If you post them here we'll both see them. Kevin, your body shop probably knows where to drill, but the pic is worth a thousand words. I thought it might be in the AM, but it's not there or in the CSM that I can find.

 

The factory dimples are easy to see, I know right where to drill.

 

Hey john, I can see where to drill, but can you tell me the size of the hole on that door please. The hole in the body is larger,I only know this because I have the new boots in hand.