1970 Cutlass S underhood questions

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Old Apr 20, 2020 | 07:22 PM
  #1  
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1970 Cutlass S underhood questions

Since pretty much everything stock seems to be missing under the hood, I was wondering if anyone has pictures of a stock 1970 Cutlass with a 350 underhood from different angles. I have no idea what is missing. For example, the below overflow tank. It doesn't seem right. Any help?


overflow tank?

engine bay
I just need some random pics of a 1970 Cutlass that is generally unmolested or restored to stock to see what I was supposed to start with...
Thanks all,
Old Apr 21, 2020 | 04:03 PM
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Well, the coolant tank is correct, and desirable.
Old Apr 21, 2020 | 04:22 PM
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70's didnt come with a coolant recovery system, they just pissed coolant on the ground if they overheated
Looks like youre missing the Windshield Fluid bottle on the drivers inner fender
Old Apr 21, 2020 | 05:03 PM
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Hmmm. On my phone so can’t see in detail. Is that an overflow tank or a windshield fluid tank? It looks peculiar for some reason.
Old Apr 21, 2020 | 05:14 PM
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My 70 supreme convertible has a washer fluid tank on the driver side, no recovery system
Old Apr 21, 2020 | 07:17 PM
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Yes the coolant tank is correct
Old Apr 21, 2020 | 07:54 PM
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Ok, so some 70's came with coolant recovery and some didn't? I'd like to see if any others have pics of this spot underhood.
Thanks so far all!
Old Apr 21, 2020 | 08:13 PM
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not a great view I will try to get a better shot for you


Old Apr 21, 2020 | 08:27 PM
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If that is a factory overflow tank, I would definitely like to see the CSM diagram and hope there's an explanation why that upper rear mounting tab doesn't have a corresponding mounting bracket.
Old Apr 21, 2020 | 08:30 PM
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The naked tab is what made me think it was added on too
Old Apr 21, 2020 | 09:07 PM
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It’s the dealer installed overflow tank. It’s a correct 1970 tank, but dealer and not factory installed.
Old Apr 21, 2020 | 09:26 PM
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Aha!! Well, my buddy’s dad owned the dealership so I guess that explains it.
Old Apr 22, 2020 | 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Fun71
If that is a factory overflow tank, I would definitely like to see the CSM diagram and hope there's an explanation why that upper rear mounting tab doesn't have a corresponding mounting bracket.
That was my thought as I suggested in Post #4. It doesn't look to be an OEM coolant reservoir tank, it looks to me more the shape of a windshield washer fluid reservoir mounted after-the-fact.
Old Apr 22, 2020 | 11:20 AM
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1970 Factory Assembly Manual



W/O 455 CID

455 CID Windshield Washer Bottle
Old Apr 22, 2020 | 01:08 PM
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If you look closely, you can see some lettering on the top of the tank. I can make out "ENGINE COOLANT" on the first line and the "CHECK HOT" on the next line but I can't see it well enough to make out what is in front of that.

Last edited by Fun71; Apr 22, 2020 at 01:11 PM.
Old Apr 22, 2020 | 01:23 PM
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Here's a better shot. Yes Kenneth, it says:
ENGINE COOLANT
CHECK HOT

Then down along the side is FULL and ADD


Old Apr 22, 2020 | 01:49 PM
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Found these:
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...r-side-124843/
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...q-18432/page2/

and, these;
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...32/#post128475
https://www.opgi.com/cooling-heating...t-c240229.html
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums.../#&gid=1&pid=3






Old Apr 22, 2020 | 02:05 PM
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Awesome, thanks guys. Looks like I am missing a spacer and screw. There is no hole in the fender to put the spacer/screw into anyway...
Old Apr 22, 2020 | 02:34 PM
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Joe - Drill a small starter/pilot hole into the fender. From Ace Hardware grab one or several large self-tapping sheet metal screws of the appropriate size. Yes, they make large self-tapping sheet metal screws. Ace Hardware has several drawers of the size spacer you need to accommodate the self-tapping sheet metal screws, as well.

Last edited by Vintage Chief; Apr 22, 2020 at 02:36 PM.
Old Apr 22, 2020 | 02:53 PM
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Sounds good, thanks! I just found out that I can't open the trunk with the key. We had it open when we brought it home. Now the key just turns against the spring and won't open it. Sheesh. Already crap is starting...
Old Apr 22, 2020 | 03:01 PM
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Rather than using one hand, firmly grasp the bottom edge of the trunk lid. Apply the same type of continual turning motion as you shake &/or apply upward pressure on the trunk lid. It's obviously tough to tell if the tumbler is spinning or the latch has fallen away from the lock mechanism. Try that for awhile and see if it pops up. Aside from that, remove the back seat, grab any available small nephew/grandson equipped with a flashlight, stuff him in the trunk & have him witness what's going on. A large chocolate sundae smothered in whipping cream is good enticement.

Last edited by Vintage Chief; Apr 22, 2020 at 03:03 PM.
Old Apr 22, 2020 | 03:05 PM
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Thanks Norm, I actually did that before I took the vid. I had to hold the camera for the actual video, but, dangit, it ain't moving. And yes, I need to find someone small enough to get in there. Unfortunately, the trunk is full of Olds parts...
Old Apr 22, 2020 | 03:11 PM
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Well, if you take out the rear seat, you'll be able to view the lock w/ a flashlight from the vantage point of the rear deck. PITA, but at this point if you're attempting it on your own & want to at least try to get a visual on what's going on, that's about your best bet, IMO. You can hopefully shuffle things around a bit in the trunk to see the lock mechanism to see what's happening. You may get a way w/ a long strong stick, pipe, pole, coat hangars or whatever to noodle the lock once you're able to sorta view what's going on. Others may have a better suggestion.
Old Apr 22, 2020 | 04:22 PM
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I got it open!! I thought I was gonna break the key off, but that's what it took to get it to release. I need to inspect it and see if it needs some sort of adjustment or replacement. Until then, it stays open.

Gonna post some pics in a new thread about all the goodies in the trunk. And how bad the trunk floor needs to be cut out and new floor welded in...

Thanks a bunch all!
Old Apr 22, 2020 | 05:20 PM
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Sometimes just pushing down heavily on the lid while turning the key will work also.
Old Apr 22, 2020 | 05:33 PM
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Happy to hear you got the sucker open.
Old Apr 23, 2020 | 12:49 AM
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Originally Posted by Vintage Chief
Well, if you take out the rear seat, you'll be able to view the lock w/ a flashlight from the vantage point of the rear deck. PITA, but at this point if you're attempting it on your own & want to at least try to get a visual on what's going on, that's about your best bet, IMO. You can hopefully shuffle things around a bit in the trunk to see the lock mechanism to see what's happening. You may get a way w/ a long strong stick, pipe, pole, coat hangars or whatever to noodle the lock once you're able to sorta view what's going on. Others may have a better suggestion.
Can't remember the reason now, but I did have to get into a trunk through the back seat a couple years ago. I rounded up a bunch of extensions for the ratchet and the right sized socket so I was able to remove the two bolts holding the latch to the trunk lid. Didn't have to try to climb or reach through...took me about 10 minutes all told...if that.
Old Apr 23, 2020 | 07:35 AM
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Thanks for the tip, I will make sure I have enough extensions on hand for the next time this happens (if ever).
Old Apr 23, 2020 | 07:47 AM
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Old Apr 23, 2020 | 08:37 AM
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Thanks for the great pics!
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