Swede64

Yes, definately. As a 64 owner i can also see more and more 64-65 cars in threads on Olds forums. Go for it!

therobski

Guys I chose Old Air Products in Fort Worth for the A/C system. Since there is no plug and play to this install,this is what they call a universal fit however I can get as detailed as you want if you have any questions. I'm moving slow measuring 10 time cutting once!! AND with a some help from from my buddies-you guys. The condenser is installed and the dryer. You can see in the pictures the top to two brackets that hold the condenser are perforated,( bunch of pre-drilled holes and thin) like erector set material. I did not like the flimsy bracket material provided so I used 16 gauge plate and fabbed the rest along with one bracket that goes from the bottom of the condenser to the lower core support. NOTE These guys have selling these products for years and what they provide will work just its my preference.) The dryer needs to be where the horns were, (not out by the grill in the elements my preference) so I will have to relocate the horns later. BESIDES, if you install the dryer on the outside next to the condenser the grill it will no longer fit. I used a 1 1/4 inch bi metal hole saw and cut to holes in the core support next to where the horns were located to run the lines from the condenser through, you will have to remove the body bolt to do this on the lower. Now for a little detail: stuff rags between the lower radiator and the core support to help trap all the metal shavings and to catch the fasteners as you are trying to install the brackets and condenser together, very tight area to work with only a 1/4 to3/8 inch required between the condenser and the radiator. Also take some paint and little model brush and paint the hole circle to prevent rust after you deburred it. I pre-fit the front bumper, will need help with the final adjustment. Finished the install of the fully restored windshield wiper motor and pump but had issues with the power brake booster bracket not allowing me to plug in the wiring harness to the 50 year pump, so I had to take everything apart AGAIN, cut some material of the out bound bracket and re fit all is good. I finally got the proper Lokar Throttle cable setup, seems this is not a very common Q-jet and the folks from Lokar were VERY helpful helping me with my solution and sent me the correct bracket for this Q-jet. A few pics

therobski

Here a few pictures of the dryer mounted inside the core support where the horns used to be. And special thanks to Realfast57vette-Mark for fabbing the AC bracket for me.

therobski

As you can see from the previous pictures I moved the dryer mount outboard and got the original horns back in place. The AC lines were all cut to proper specs and crimped. Now starting mock everything in place. Started to install sound deaden-er in the upper dash. restored the 50 year old heater box and modified it hide the AC and heater hose lines between the fender and wheel well. It's 103 here so that enough for today. Next update I will have the evaporator in under the dash, the lines all hooked up with the heater box in place. I ordered a Lecarra billet steering wheel, Corbeau LG1 seats, Wedge seat sliders and brackets, a B&M Pro Grip trans shifter and a Rob Mac billet thermostat housing. , All Medal Direct bucket seat braces ( there's new floors in the car) swivel thermostat housing.

therobski

Buddy came over and we finally got the evaporator installed with the fabbed brackets, and its level as it should be. Installed the outer vents and hose lines. We were going to run the heater and AC lines from the evaporator but I was giving a cable operated heater by-pass, I believe Old Air products has an electronic heater by-pass, find out tomorrow. The Lecarra billet steering wheel is installed but I'm certain they sent me the wrong adapter, the horn will not work with this set up. Through on-line research located a modern, short antenna made by Scosche model number RMA-900 at Wal Mart. Easy install in the 50,year old fender-looks good for the Pro-Touring look.

therobski

Moving forward getting ready to re-installing the completely restored dash and hooking up everything with a lot of re-wiring. Installed a Painless circuit boss in the glove box to take the load off the old fuse panel when installing the new accessories.The task will be getting the re-worked control panel cables and electronic parts to co-exist with the AC set up in a clean easily accessible environment. All the vents and hoses are installed, installed gauge panel-the mechanical oil and water temp gauge plumbing is almost complete, glove box and kick panels in. All the AC and heater lines are ran through the modified 50 year old heater box with minimum exposure in the engine area.

nonhog

Nice to see forward movement. Keep up the good work!

dc2x4drvr

You're moving along, maybe fab a panel between the AC vents? I know more work

therobski

Moving along on alot of time consuming little things, especially when your putting a car totally together from scratch using mostly high performance aftermarket parts on an Olds, its definitely not "plug and Play" The under dash original wiring is all sorted out and repaired as necessary along with the new Painless 5 circuit boss. The circuit boss will used for the new A/C system, Kenwood head unit, Soundstream amp, Flexalite electric fans. I did not want put any additional load on the 50 year old fuse panel. (although in very good condition) The evaporator is set in properly-this was a challenging task because your using the firewall and kick panel for the mounting surface and are at different angels.The evaporator has to be level as possible in order for the drain to work properly. All the electrical and plumbing for the A/C is about finished, thus I put the grill back in. Have the gauges installed, need to get a tach ordered soon. I used a product-Frost King duct insulation as sound deadener under the dash along with new OEM jute. Mounted a Kenwood marine KMR-D558BT head unit in the glove box. ( took the Painless circuit and moved it to the drivers side front fender) I did not want to cut up the original dash. This unit has a CD player, Am/FM, sirix XM and blue tooth capabilities. Using blue tooth I will be able to pair my I phone to this head unit and stream Pandora, Tune in etc. Head unit works with a single Retrosound dual cone 4x6 speaker in the dash, along with a pair of PPI p169's 6x9's in the rear mounted in a boom box under the rear package tray, all powered with a "Olds School" Soundstream Rubicon 302 300watts total power! Installed an M@H modified engine harness for the HEI, mini starter, alternator with internal voltage regulator and without factory heater. Fits great, they do excellent work.

therobski

Few more pictures.....

Eddie Hansen

Rob never realized how tall you are looking at pic number 5 lol. Wow you must have a loft space nicegarage and a great job on the olds love that stripe awesome

oldcutlass

Rob, it sure is coming along.

gearheads78

Looking great man!!

oldstata

Wow! you have done such a great job with the mods. I bet your just inching to take it out

therobski

Thanks guys, actually the shop has a 12 foot ceiling. I was standing on the attic stairs-have 1500 sq.ft of storage space up stairs or like my wife says " I have a place to stay if I get in to much trouble!! Waiting for my XMAS bonus-hope its not a gift to the "jelly of the Month Club" I am going to have a lift installed. Doing bench presses with a tranny is something that is getting a lot tougher to do these days. This ride has come ALONG WAY, and many thanks for alot of help from some CLUB members that are very good friends of mine. I want to get the car started and bugs worked out in 2015, enjoy it and then take it apart for improvements and the 425!

oldstata

I like how tight your fender to a piller is how did you get it like that ? I pulled and messed with mine for days

Napoleon Solo

The "Jelly of the month club" is the gift that keeps on giving all year 'round. Clarke...

Hey Rob - you're making me impatient with mine! I want to be where you are already. I'm going to spend some time reviewing your thread and live vicariously through you for awhile...

dc2x4drvr

Lookin good, Power Tour is getting close.��

therobski

Napoleon it's going on over 4 years on the build up! Oldstata, the body shop did all the body, paint and alignment work-cannot take credit for that however December issue of Car Craft they show you a bunch of tips on DIY body panel alignment.

therobski

Guys when I get the door regulators, hardware, glass in the doors and side windows I will up date the thread. There are no instructions I could find for a post car and followed 442Bro on a Holiday Coupe door and its not the same and messed up some paint on the door frame etc. Trying to figure out how to wire two leads from the new AC unit that require a 30 amp fuse each. The new Painless 5 circuit boss has terminal blocks rated at 20 amp, finish wiring the SoundStream amp, wire up electric fans, build a fuel line, finish the brake lines on and on. Will keep you all posted feel free to ask questions.

therobski

Lots of detail-little projects getting completed including almost all the rewiring is done for all the new accessories. The dash pictures show where I mounted a blue LED switch in the old radio off/on hole to activate the AC. It will light up blue when activated, same with the USB ports that are now in where the old cigarette lighter hole. I will take a little semi black touch up paint and black out the letters. The plan is to install an I phone where the old radio once was. A used Iphone4 will fit perfect in that spot. Then I will have blue tooth to the Kenwood Marine Head unit in the glove box, GPS, Pandora etc. Today I took the drivers bucket seat out of the 67 and positioned it where braces needed to be on the the floor. I riveted them, will weld later after final adjustments. If you recall this is an all new floor, so we are starting from scratch. With the seat mounted, I was able to position and mount the B@M Bandit floor shifter. Took some pictures of the undercarriage on the lift.

therobski

few more pictures

64Rocket

I find it different that so many use copper for brake lines.
When you buy new brake line at the parts store it is always steel.
i think copper is so soft, and may be easy to flare. I just find it unusual .

Gene

therobski

Its not copper, product is called Easy Bend by Brake Quip in Knoxville Tn. I heard that some of the European imports are using this on the assembly line.

miked

That is going to be some kind of ROCKET!! Good job!

oldcutlass

What are you going to use to fill the radio slot and remaining volume hole?

therobski

Going to fit an I phone in there,looking now for a used I phone 4, fab a few little brackets and it will fill the rectangular hole almost perfectly. The station changer hole, will most likely run the I phone charger line through the square hole where you used to adjust the front and rear speaker, the round hole I will fill with a grommet. At least that's the plan.

therobski

I need to partially correct myself-This is a nickle copper alloy line, it is easy to bend, easy to flare, quick to work with, and never rusts. I bought a spring kit at Hobby Lobby for 4 dollars and you put the spring over the line and bend it with your fingers, great stuff.

therobski

Stardate 3-22-2015 getting closer to getting her fired up! Starting to see daylight. I took a sabbatical from work so getting more done. Installed a TCI 200-4R converter lock up kit. The way I wired it ,look at images the 2 12 gauge blue wires are going from the B@M Pro-Stick shifter to the two original purple wires under the dash for a functional neutral safety switch, also note that I matted one of the blue wires through a 10 amp fuse circuit just in case. When I put a good battery in it and get the dash in I will test those wires and see which one of the purple ones is hot and finish the job. The red wire you see along with blue wires is coming from the 200-4R will be wired into the brake light switch under the dash when I get the right connector tomorrow. That will make the converter unlock when you press the brake pedal. I have attached the vacuum operated micro switch that came with the kit next the wiring port the side of transmission, this will lock and unlock the converter based on engine vacuum. ( hopefully ) Notice a green wire next to the red one, I just wrapped with electrical tape, I did not want to cut it. its non functional for this application. For now I decided to use the 64 drive shaft to get the car running and the bugs worked out, will have an aluminum one built later. That project took a few runs to the parts house to determine which u-joints I needed to mate the Moser 1350 pinion yoke. So FYI-you need a GM R3 conversion U-joint to a 1350 not a 1310 0r 1330. I used Spicer products for this. Installed the correct ER brake cables for proper fit when converting to the 200-4R. I used "PushLock" hose and ran the fuel line, used insulated rubber fasteners with stainless steel screws.

therobski

few more pictures, please feel to critique.

stan 65 cutlass

looks real tidy rob. cant see ya havin too many issues

oldcutlass

Nice work, I've never had luck with the sticky looms.

therobski

Oldcutlass, if you are referring to the 10 amp fuse stuck to the firewall? I bought a roll of 3M double sided tape, wiped the surface down with denatured alcohol and stuck it on there. Cleanliness top priority and takes a real good pull to get it off.

therobski

The Old Air Products A/C system is all plumbed in and wired. Have the heater and A/C lines tucked in behind the wheel house along with the heater bypass control, the black braided lines running along the wheel house is the transmission cooler lines. I think I have to scratch the idea of installing an I phone, Android or whatever in the space where the old radio was. Problem is the chargers plug in from the bottom and there's no room for it with the charger cord plugged in and I'm not going to cut the dash. So I will fab up a radio delete plate-any ideas where to get some ribbed plastic? The wiring under the dash is completed, used all the available key-on wires from the Painless Cirkuit Boss to operate all the additional new creature comforts and left the original panel alone. Next up install the dash and finish the wiring. Few shost of some detail:

gearheads78

Almost looks like a car again

oldcutlass

Nice, looks like you got the N Texas electrical grid system on the left fender well.

therobski

Oldcutlass how did you know I work for Texas Power and Light?? Just kidding! That took a lot of planning and time to make it all work together, have several relays and fuses inside the the car, as mentioned I did not want to tap into the old fuse panel, its in good shape but its 51 years old.

oldcutlass

That's understandable.

therobski

The 60 amp circuit breaker with the heavy gauge red wire leading to it is from the Soundstream 300amp mounted in the trunk, the second circuit breaker is for the A/C system, that red wire goes to two relays under the dash to power the A/C system.

therobski

300 watt amp.