as some of you know i was blessed with a 67 cutlass supreme. upon receiving the car, i tore into my first v8(owned 4cylinders all my life) i did what i could and got everything assembled. after getting the car moving under its own power, i decided to start work to restore it.

but due to an injury at work, the car ended up sitting for a couple months.

yesterday, me and my 2 brother-in-laws decided to tear into it.

this is the progress we made in about 2 hours, all but the door panels removed in the interior, took off some trim pieces also

pulled the backseat out

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looks pretty bad back there

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damage under front window

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passenger floorboard

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stripped interior

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damage to driver rear bumper

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damage to rear window and shelf

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im going to pick up an engine hoist tomorrow and you all know what that means

 

Yup, more work.
Lots of work ahead of you. But if you keep on working that hard, you'll git r done quick. Do a good job and you'll be really happy. Love your milk crate seat. Rust spots look like they're going to be manageable.

 

Keep the updates and pictures coming!
Looks like you have the typical rust areas that most of these cars have. You'll be fine. Just keep your brothers helping you and it'll be a gem in no time!

 

Soldier .. the body looks half decent like the the other posts say typical spots for GM a-bodys but very managable I love the speaker cut outs in the door panels strange how everyone use to do that to the poor old girls

 

Cool pics. I bet it was fun tearing into it. Especially after it sat for a couple of months. Good luck with the project.

 

Now the fun begins and you get the chance to practice your welding skills.
Good luck with the build and keep us posted with your progress

 

I will attempt at welding the floor pans only but as far as the front window goes that will be going to CONCEPTS inovations in Lake Elsinore California, Roger is his name he is known world wide for his sheet metal fabrications and cutom work especially on old classic rides.

 

this is what the car looked like before it sat in a field for 7 years, and hopefully what i can restore it to



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Soldier,
This is the year and model and car that first got me hooked
on Olds. A old neighbor kid got one for his 16th birthday from
his dad and I thought it was very cool. That was around 1975.
I doubt he kept it - I can recall he wanted a new car - I bet he
wants it now. Al J.

 

THE SAME THING YOU SAID IS WHAT HAPPENED WITH MY BEST FRIEND AND HIS FATHER. THEY ARE WHO I GOT THE CAR FROM AND IT TRULY IS A BLESSING. I JUST HAVE BEEN PRAYING FOR HEALING SO I CAN GET BACK TO WORK AND START PUTTING MY HANDS INTO THE CAR. BOTH OF MY BOTHER IN LAW'S HAVE BEEN THE ONES DOING ALL THE WORK AND I HAVE JUST BEEN WATCHING OR GETTING THE TOOLS THEY NEED SO ITS A LITTLE SAD BUT ITS GETTING WORK DONE THAT'S THE IMPORTANT PART RIGHT... AND IN THE END IT WILL BE USED TO MINISTER TO OTHERS AND GLORIFY GOD!!! AMEN !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

new pictures coming soon just having an issue pulling the motor out can anyone help? thanks

 

what are you having trouble with. Long pull from Bothell WA to Riverside CA. but I will think success for you if that helps

 

I DONT KNOW WHERE TO START FIRST?? AND I AM WORRIED CAUSE NOW MY TRANY IS LEAKING SO I HOPE I DIDNT SCREW SOMETHING UP????

 

 

Which windows are you trying to remove? The Fisher body book shows how to R&R. I'll pull it out and post a pic of the page (don't have a scanner here) If it'll help.

 

Soldier, sorry I forgot to do this earlier, I get side tracked easy sometimes, here's some pics from my Fisher book. Hope it helps and I got the right ones for you.

 

last few pages

 

My 68 was rusted the same way took a little time but I repaired it and looks good now. Floorpans are a great place to start learning sheetmetal work next thing you know you are building parts that you paint! It is fun to get friends and family involved good to see you have chosen to do that. As far as removing the engine the transmission will leak when you remove the drive shaft and I like to remove the engine and trans together on most cars. I am not sure how easy that is on that model maybe someone with more experience will chime in. The most important thing is to take your time and make sure everyone is clear of pinch points and not under the engine in case of failure of your hoist or chain.

 

ok well here goes ..... i just had a quote done from my friends father on the paint and body work for my 1967 cutlass supreme i was quoted $1,256.00 to pull out all dents rework the metal and paint it.
the work will cover the following : it is for a silver metalic paint with massive flake for the top and the body will be a deep burgandy wine with a gold bass and a gold pearl as well..........he is a profesional painter but will do it for me as a project on his down time at work..... the car is going to his shop but i am a little worried that seems to cheap...!!!!!! OOOHHHH well right i have the price in writing set at that price with no hike up later????

he will begin the work in 2 weeks hahahaah and says it will take him about 2 months to do cause it will be on his days off of work or his down time my car will not be a priority ....... WOW!!! @ that price thats all i can say
take care everyone and god bless you

 

If it sounds too good to be true it probably is. You can't buy materials on a decent paint job for that. I have a shop that is dirt cheap for the quality of work and charges me 250.00 a panel paint scratch or chip repair. Any body work is extra. No one else in town will do it at that price and keep up with the 15-20 cars a month I send them. If you figure the 9 panels on your Cutlass it would cost 2250.00 for my guy to shoot your car with no body work included.

 

Are you buying the primers, paint, ect.? Are you going to do the massive amount of hours to help block sand? I'm no expert but that sounds cheap to me.
I had a guy with an 88 Toyota truck to quote patches on the rusted body. I quoted him $1000 for the sheet metal repairs only. Needless to say he turned me down.

Just in the primers, sanding blocks, various grit papers, grease wax remover, tack cloths, masking tape and paper and a bunch of other pre-painting items, I'm well over $500 and countless hours of work.

What if he gets tired of working on it in his "FREE TIME" then the car could potentialy be there longer.

 

ok well this is what i found out..... he has extra primer and sealer he also is giveing me the leftover silver which is why the only thing that will be silver is the top.(its left over from a previose job.......) I would have to pay his price on the burgandy wine mix. He says thats hard to match so I need to get 3qt. and he will give me the leftovers. but from what he says is that he is not chargeing labor hours ....... he is use teaching the 2nd painter some more tricks on pearls and flake???? but yeah its the down time and if it takes him longer to be honest thats fine with me like i said for that price i cant ask for a quick turn out.... oh yeah a nieghbor of mine builds lowriders and he said he would charge me for the same paint job or color scheme $1,867.92.... but also on the side........ the car to my surprise is verey solid not bad for sitting in a field for 6 or so years huh...... the floor pan is the only bad area ???? thats what they both said everything else is good??? i also went to a macco by my house before i stripped the car and to do the whole car in a metalic green no other color and patch the floor block the car and hood jams everything it was..... now remember its MACCO it was gonna be $1076.18???? so i dont know guys but it seems fair i guess??what my friends father wants to charge but yeah no labor hours hes teaching off my car......... well keep us in prayer and pray it all goes well we will see next week he comes for the car........ thanks for the heads up guys ......thanks again have a great day

 

You are on your way to a good start and one hell of a learning experience that nobody can take away. I am starting on my 64 F-85 post car, look at the hole I cut out! I bought a new Miller 180 welder and learning how to do things myself with alot of tips from other club members. Although the body will come off eventually look how much easier it would be to remove the upper and lower control arms, bead blast them and press in new bushings and reinstall with out the trunk? ( Thats the plan) If you can see I already replaced the brake lines. Completely rebuilt the rear brakes while I was at it. trunk2.jpgGood luck...trunk.jpg

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ok well the car was sent off to the body shop and is being worked on as we speak.................... supper excited and cant wait to see the car completed !!!!!!
I will post pictures of the work in progress from the body shop...........!!!!!

 

just got some pictures of the car at the body shop today....... supper excited and surprised tto see the condition of the car in just a few days...

 

for all of those who doubted the body guy, (including me! haha) he really is doing a great job, heres some pics one on the truck, and the rest are the progress he made in 3 days!

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on the way

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haha three days later i walked in to find BARE METAL, and alote of metal work had been done, including pulling out a MASSIVE section of quarter panel.

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and the horrors that lie under the windshield!! ugh! hes fixing this too!

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so in the end it will be a black cherry(looks burgundy) on bottom, with a silver top with flake throughout.

its getting there! let me know what you think.

 

It looks like you found a good contact in this body and paint professional. He sure got down to business quickly and because he is working on his own time, there may be some extra caring there that money doesn't buy.

 

amen to that!!!!!! cant wait to see the finished product..... keep the comments coming please. oh does anyone know where i can get a set of oldschool ROCKET wheels??

 

What kind of wheels did you have in mind? There's a few different rally wheels used in the 1960's into the 80's that will fit. Check out the photos of other cars to see if you can spot the style you want then let us know. John

 

yeah the old rocket wheels is what i want...... or supreme wheels.....??? uh let me look and see if i can find a picture of them my brother had them on his 66 impala

 

67supreme.jpg here are the wheels i am looking for.....any ideas?

 

Check out:

http://www.wheelvintiques.com/

Keith

 

ok well just went today to look at the progress of my baby..... she is all blocked,primered and ready to weld in the floor... i will post pictures up soon

 

hey just a little update for you guys almost all body work is done(other than the floor and under the windshield),after that my babys in primer!!

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primed!

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Looks great so far. Keep us posted on the progress and more pics.

 

Those wheels are called "Supremes" i believe cragar is now selling with with their brand...

I really like them too, a friend has them on his 66 chevelle. Had i known cragar was selling them, i would have bought them instead of the standard cragars i got.

check cragars website for Size & bs info & Part numbers, then order via summit

 

i guess i was wrong about cragar selling them, but a company called US wheel

http://www.summitracing.com/search/B...upreme-Wheels/

 

FYI Last year I ordered new-two Cragar 15x7's for the front and two 15x8's for the rear of my 67 from Jegs and due to the fact I did not have them installed right away the warranty has expired and low and behold I discovered just last week on a chassis dyno one of the 15 by 8's is so out of round it cannot be re-balanced properly. CHINA-made So I ordered another one and will use the other as a spare. My point is that if you order something for your build-especially thats functions-make sure it works/fits before the warranty expires. I never dreamed of having a "bad" NEW wheel. Oh well I keep throwing money at it maybe it will all work out

 

The car looks to be moving along well Solider!

Rob who cares about the wheel. We want to hear how much power the beast made

 

DSCN1723.jpg Well you will not believe it but during the first pull their dyno broke! The lead wire was cracked so twice now I went over their and their dyno failed me. However during the first and only pull up only 3,000 RPM before the dyno failed it read out 299 HP at 310 lbs. torque. So we shall see when I can get back over their and spoll it up to 5,300 RPM.