so i tore the 350 down to the short block today and it looked pretty good so i ordered the fel pro gasket set from summit which should be here on the 6th and am going to be regasketing everything. I'm not new to cars but this is the farthest I've been into an engine before so any useful tips on what I'm going to be doing here? (rtv where the pan gasket meets the timing cover, and that type of stuff) and while I'm this far into it should i get a new oil pump just for peace of mind? again ANY tips on this process is greatly appreciated. i really really want this to turn out right the first time and am trying to not unknowingly cut any corners

 

Well I sorta did the same thing except I did a cam swap and some head work. The rear main seal was one thing I wanted to do for sure. So fare its all good.

 

well thats good, hopefully mine goes just as well. how was the rear main seal? as in difficulty and did you take the crank out to do it?

 

I removed the main caps and lifted the crank just slightly and slid the new seal in.

 

ok, seems simple enough. did you use any RTV on it and if so where exactly?

 

Are you replacing with a rope seal or a rubber seal?

- Eric

 

i ordered the Fel-Pro Gasket Kit # QKS2613, so I'm pretty sure its a rubber seal

 

It'll be a rope seal.

The only rubber seals are the Ford 292 seal BS6141 and the AMC/Jeep 258 seal BS13879.

- Eric

 

actually, i believe I'm mistaken. i looked it up on summit and took a closer look at the picture and it looks like the oem rope rear main seal, but i might just get a rubber one if theres any major advantages compared to the rope seal

 

and MD, how should i go about installing the rope seal? like i stated before i really dont wanna have to do this more than once so any advice is greatly appreciated
thanks

 

If I recall from my studies of ancient history, you soak it in oil overnight, then push it into the groove. There is an installer that can help keep it from snagging or bending - I assume they still sell them, but if you can get the crank up and eighth of an inch, you probably don't need one.

No sealant if I recall - they're soaked in oil and the ends mush together.

- Eric

 

ok seems pretty straightforward. thanks again MD
il be trying to put up a video of it running when I'm done with it, can't wait to hear that olds rumble

 

There should also be clear instructions in the CSM about how to do it.

- Eric

 

i should probably get one of those for the 72 model year, i have 64,78,80, and 84 an i swear they'll be valuable some day..

 

Sorry I didn't get back to you. I used a rubber seal but it seems to be leaking just a bit. Probably something I did wrong. Good luck with yours.

 

its all good, eh I'm startin at high noon tomorrow, hopefully it'll be running in the car by tuesday (fingers crossed)

 

IMHO, I would replace not only the oil pump, but I would also replace the freeze plugs if they are older. Also, you might want to consider the timming chain if the engine is suspected to have a lot of miles on it.

Cheap insurance and easy to do while the engine is out of your car.