Organizational tips for a complete tear down
#1
Organizational tips for a complete tear down
I'm starting to tear my 71 cutlass down for media blasting and know I should start with a solid plan in how to keep track of parts, how to disassemble, etc., and was hoping for some solid pointers. If anyone is aware of some great resources to study I am all for it. My plan was to take pics, place them in numbered folders on my pc, and have a chart for what each subassembly was associated with what number. I would place the parts in bags or tag the larger parts with the subassembly number to know what went with what. Maybe even a large "map" of the car that was marked with the subassembly numbers. I'm just guessing however, and would love to hear what ideas worked for you. To make it an extra challenge, this car is missing parts all over the place, random screws floating around, cut wires, you name it. I'm not looking for a concours restoration, I'm sure I will be winging it as it's far from original.
#3
When I did mine, I just bagged or otherwise containerized and labeled all bags/containers as to general assembly area, such as "Front Driver Hub," "Front Pass Hub," "Driver Door Window," "Pass Door Window," "Passenger Rear Brake," "Driver Steering/Suspension," etc. Then carefully forgot where I put a couple of the bags, LOL! I also took myriad pictures, from various angles of each assembly before taking apart. Take pictures of "witness marks" on panels when you have removed assemblies from, say, the left/right quarter or door window(s). When it was time to begin reassembly, I printed the pics associated with a given area, along with the appropriate matching drawings from the Product Information (Assembly) Manual. The pics really came in handy both in refinishing and reinstalling - especially when time to reinstall the windows.
Good Luck!
Good Luck!
#4
Nate, I tore down my ‘69 shelby last year and was happy with the method I’ll describe below. This method was revealed when I toured the shop of a nationally recognized shelby restoration shop.
A bit of history: When I was 15, I completely disassembled a 69 camaro with no organization or labeling of parts. I was never able to reassemble it and when I finally turned 16, my camaro was in baskets and boxes. Eventually we sold it as a basket case. Painful lesson learned.
So 35 years later, I was determined to learn from past mistakes.
Purchase:
+\- 15 small clear flat fishing tackle boxes
Package of self adhering labels
20 12x8x5 cardboard boxes
10. 12x12x12 boxes
2 rolls packing tape
Some 2” pvc pipe
As you remove a part, no matter how small or trivial, take a photo.
Have your computer handy so you can add annotations onto the photo as you store the photo in your files. My method of doing this was to convert photos to pdf...then add comments and reminders onto the photo as I stored them,
Set up a naming convention for the photos so you can easily look at a photo name and link it to the labels you’ll be sticking on the tackle box. For instance, I would label photos from IF1, IF2, IF3 as I disassembled the dash area. “iF” stood from interior front. Then I had a folder for IF that contained sequential photos of disassembly from front area of interior. Similarly I have folders labeled IM (interior middle), IR (interior rear), etc.
it’s important to Immediately add comments onto photos as reminders since the picture itself may not tell the whole story and it’s easy to forget as you proceed to removing next fastener or component.
Then put the screw or whatever into a compartment in the tackle box. Make a label and stick it on outside of tackle box lid. On that label, include the file name/code so you can easily link the part to the corresponding photo. (See photos below)
The pvc tubing is used to store cables, trim or other similarly shaped items
Relatively small cardboard boxes are better than large. Using same size boxes (perhaps in three basic sizes) let’s them stack better.
Think about building a cheap rack of some sort for your glass, i used a couple sections of metal picket fence with pipe insulation set on a base with castors.
These pics will might be easier to understand than my rambling.
Take photo before or after removal. Assign a coded file name to photo (in this case IF7 meaning “interior front and 7 is the sequence of disassembly. Important: annotate the photo with your thoughts while fresh in your mind.
Put fastener in tackle box (clear lid best. Got mine at Walmart for 4 bucks). Make label that has file name number linking it to photo. In this case IF7
I found these tackle boxes from Walmart work great and cheap at 3-4 bucks each
Photo of the fasteners and Small doodads off 1969 shelby mustang, All linked to photos and comments on harddrve.
Boxes of similar size stack best. Use relatively small boxes (perhaps in 3 sizes) so they don’t get too heavy. I don’t mean to promote Walmart...but gotta day they have great price on these boxes that a good size.
Storing glass is bit of a challenge. I made a rolling stand from a segment of metal picket fence, pipe insulation mounted on small piece of plywood with casters attached. Holds all four pieces of glass.
Hope you find this info helpful in some way.
A bit of history: When I was 15, I completely disassembled a 69 camaro with no organization or labeling of parts. I was never able to reassemble it and when I finally turned 16, my camaro was in baskets and boxes. Eventually we sold it as a basket case. Painful lesson learned.
So 35 years later, I was determined to learn from past mistakes.
Purchase:
+\- 15 small clear flat fishing tackle boxes
Package of self adhering labels
20 12x8x5 cardboard boxes
10. 12x12x12 boxes
2 rolls packing tape
Some 2” pvc pipe
As you remove a part, no matter how small or trivial, take a photo.
Have your computer handy so you can add annotations onto the photo as you store the photo in your files. My method of doing this was to convert photos to pdf...then add comments and reminders onto the photo as I stored them,
Set up a naming convention for the photos so you can easily look at a photo name and link it to the labels you’ll be sticking on the tackle box. For instance, I would label photos from IF1, IF2, IF3 as I disassembled the dash area. “iF” stood from interior front. Then I had a folder for IF that contained sequential photos of disassembly from front area of interior. Similarly I have folders labeled IM (interior middle), IR (interior rear), etc.
it’s important to Immediately add comments onto photos as reminders since the picture itself may not tell the whole story and it’s easy to forget as you proceed to removing next fastener or component.
Then put the screw or whatever into a compartment in the tackle box. Make a label and stick it on outside of tackle box lid. On that label, include the file name/code so you can easily link the part to the corresponding photo. (See photos below)
The pvc tubing is used to store cables, trim or other similarly shaped items
Relatively small cardboard boxes are better than large. Using same size boxes (perhaps in three basic sizes) let’s them stack better.
Think about building a cheap rack of some sort for your glass, i used a couple sections of metal picket fence with pipe insulation set on a base with castors.
These pics will might be easier to understand than my rambling.
Take photo before or after removal. Assign a coded file name to photo (in this case IF7 meaning “interior front and 7 is the sequence of disassembly. Important: annotate the photo with your thoughts while fresh in your mind.
Put fastener in tackle box (clear lid best. Got mine at Walmart for 4 bucks). Make label that has file name number linking it to photo. In this case IF7
I found these tackle boxes from Walmart work great and cheap at 3-4 bucks each
Photo of the fasteners and Small doodads off 1969 shelby mustang, All linked to photos and comments on harddrve.
Boxes of similar size stack best. Use relatively small boxes (perhaps in 3 sizes) so they don’t get too heavy. I don’t mean to promote Walmart...but gotta day they have great price on these boxes that a good size.
Storing glass is bit of a challenge. I made a rolling stand from a segment of metal picket fence, pipe insulation mounted on small piece of plywood with casters attached. Holds all four pieces of glass.
Hope you find this info helpful in some way.
Last edited by grannys442; June 18th, 2020 at 06:47 AM.
#7
sweet geezus LOL
Nate, I tore down my ‘69 shelby last year and was happy with the method I’ll describe below. This method was revealed when I toured the shop of a nationally recognized shelby restoration shop.
A bit of history: When I was 15, I completely disassembled a 69 camaro with no organization or labeling of parts. I was never able to reassemble it and when I finally turned 16, my camaro was in baskets and boxes. Eventually we sold it as a basket case. Painful lesson learned.
So 35 years later, I was determined to learn from past mistakes.
Purchase:
+\- 15 small clear flat fishing tackle boxes
Package of self adhering labels
20 12x8x5 cardboard boxes
10. 12x12x12 boxes
2 rolls packing tape
Some 2” pvc pipe
As you remove a part, no matter how small or trivial, take a photo.
Have your computer handy so you can add annotations onto the photo as you store the photo in your files. My method of doing this was to convert photos to pdf...then add comments and reminders onto the photo as I stored them,
Set up a naming convention for the photos so you can easily look at a photo name and link it to the labels you’ll be sticking on the tackle box. For instance, I would label photos from IF1, IF2, IF3 as I disassembled the dash area. “iF” stood from interior front. Then I had a folder for IF that contained sequential photos of disassembly from front area of interior. Similarly I have folders labeled IM (interior middle), IR (interior rear), etc.
it’s important to Immediately add comments onto photos as reminders since the picture itself may not tell the whole story and it’s easy to forget as you proceed to removing next fastener or component.
Then put the screw or whatever into a compartment in the tackle box. Make a label and stick it on outside of tackle box lid. On that label, include the file name/code so you can easily link the part to the corresponding photo. (See photos below)
The pvc tubing is used to store cables, trim or other similarly shaped items
Relatively small cardboard boxes are better than large. Using same size boxes (perhaps in three basic sizes) let’s them stack better.
Think about building a cheap rack of some sort for your glass, i used a couple sections of metal picket fence with pipe insulation set on a base with castors.
These pics will might be easier to understand than my rambling.
Take photo before or after removal. Assign a coded file name to photo (in this case IF7 meaning “interior front and 7 is the sequence of disassembly. Important: annotate the photo with your thoughts while fresh in your mind.
Put fastener in tackle box (clear lid best. Got mine at Walmart for 4 bucks). Make label that has file name number linking it to photo. In this case IF7
I found these tackle boxes from Walmart work great and cheap at 3-4 bucks each
Photo of the fasteners and Small doodads off 1969 shelby mustang, All linked to photos and comments on harddrve.
Boxes of similar size stack best. Use relatively small boxes (perhaps in 3 sizes) so they don’t get too heavy. I don’t mean to promote Walmart...but gotta day they have great price on these boxes that a good size.
toring glass is bit of a challenge. I made a rolling stand from a segment of metal picket fence, pipe insulation mounted on small piece of plywood with casters attached. Holds all four pieces of glass.
Hope you find this info helpful in some way.
A bit of history: When I was 15, I completely disassembled a 69 camaro with no organization or labeling of parts. I was never able to reassemble it and when I finally turned 16, my camaro was in baskets and boxes. Eventually we sold it as a basket case. Painful lesson learned.
So 35 years later, I was determined to learn from past mistakes.
Purchase:
+\- 15 small clear flat fishing tackle boxes
Package of self adhering labels
20 12x8x5 cardboard boxes
10. 12x12x12 boxes
2 rolls packing tape
Some 2” pvc pipe
As you remove a part, no matter how small or trivial, take a photo.
Have your computer handy so you can add annotations onto the photo as you store the photo in your files. My method of doing this was to convert photos to pdf...then add comments and reminders onto the photo as I stored them,
Set up a naming convention for the photos so you can easily look at a photo name and link it to the labels you’ll be sticking on the tackle box. For instance, I would label photos from IF1, IF2, IF3 as I disassembled the dash area. “iF” stood from interior front. Then I had a folder for IF that contained sequential photos of disassembly from front area of interior. Similarly I have folders labeled IM (interior middle), IR (interior rear), etc.
it’s important to Immediately add comments onto photos as reminders since the picture itself may not tell the whole story and it’s easy to forget as you proceed to removing next fastener or component.
Then put the screw or whatever into a compartment in the tackle box. Make a label and stick it on outside of tackle box lid. On that label, include the file name/code so you can easily link the part to the corresponding photo. (See photos below)
The pvc tubing is used to store cables, trim or other similarly shaped items
Relatively small cardboard boxes are better than large. Using same size boxes (perhaps in three basic sizes) let’s them stack better.
Think about building a cheap rack of some sort for your glass, i used a couple sections of metal picket fence with pipe insulation set on a base with castors.
These pics will might be easier to understand than my rambling.
Take photo before or after removal. Assign a coded file name to photo (in this case IF7 meaning “interior front and 7 is the sequence of disassembly. Important: annotate the photo with your thoughts while fresh in your mind.
Put fastener in tackle box (clear lid best. Got mine at Walmart for 4 bucks). Make label that has file name number linking it to photo. In this case IF7
I found these tackle boxes from Walmart work great and cheap at 3-4 bucks each
Photo of the fasteners and Small doodads off 1969 shelby mustang, All linked to photos and comments on harddrve.
Boxes of similar size stack best. Use relatively small boxes (perhaps in 3 sizes) so they don’t get too heavy. I don’t mean to promote Walmart...but gotta day they have great price on these boxes that a good size.
toring glass is bit of a challenge. I made a rolling stand from a segment of metal picket fence, pipe insulation mounted on small piece of plywood with casters attached. Holds all four pieces of glass.
Hope you find this info helpful in some way.
#8
Good question! A few things I've found successful for my project are as follows:
Best of luck!
- Stay focused on a specific area of the car. In other words, if you're tearing down the front end, don't jump to the trunk to start ripping things apart.
- Get a couple thick Sharpies and a few boxes of Ziplock bags. Put small parts and hardware in the bags and mark LH, RH, etc.
- Get an iPhone and take a TON of pictures. And don't just take pictures close up! Take a step or two back and get a larger view of the surrounding parts.
- Buy a PIM and a Chassis Service Manual.
- Use clear plastic bins for parts storage so you know what's in them. Continue to rotate through the parts to see what you have and what you're missing.
- Take your time.
- Set reasonable / realistic goal posts for your project. I started with a simple goal and it turned in to a massive project before I knew it.
- Organize hardware and parts that are small in to clear plastic show boxes. For example, a bin for unfinished interior hardware and then another bin for finished / restored hardware.
Best of luck!
#9
All of the above and use the heavier "freezer" ziplock bags, the sandwich bags are easily torn or punctured spilling your carefully sorted nuts & bolts into the bottom of a storage box. You can't take enough pictures...from multiple angles! You will thank yourself later! Half way into my tear down I started printing the corresponding page from the assembly manual and put a copy in the bag with the bolts/parts. Another useful tip; use blue painters tape to hold bolts and fasteners into their respective locations before bagging and storing. When you come back to these parts 2-5 years later (maybe longer for some of us) you will appreciate the visual reminder of the which bolt goes where. If the parts are too big to bag (like a control arm) reassemble the nuts & bolts into the part and store as an assembly...and take a picture. I stored most of my pics off-line using Apple icloud drive, that way I could easily access them on my phone in the garage or wherever I happened to be. Even with all this documenting I still had wtf moments of confusion wondering, "where does this go?" Good luck!
Rodney
Rodney
#10
Grannys442 - You realize you only had to do all that because it was a Ford, right? I was just planning on getting a couple large boxes labeled "Universal GM Parts" and throw 'em all in there! In all seriousness that is a fantastic way to keep track of stuff. How did you deal with all the big stuff? Awesome lesson on the camaro, the more time spent on organization pays back 3 times in time saved putting it all back together. This is similar to what I was thinking except I was considering at first clear baggies instead of the tackle boxes with notes in each bag of the parts and purpose. In the past, I've used sheets of cardboard with a sketch of the actual part, then pushed through or attached the hardware to the cardboard with notes. The tackle boxes would be easier to store away. I have a couple friends that had mustangs before and sourcing parts was horrible. My father-in-law has been buying out peoples parts stashes and reselling them for a few years now. The prices he gets on NOS Ford stuff is crazy, he sold a NOS mustang steering wheel for $2500, I believe it was a '68. He has to have an insane magic decoder ring to know all the compatible parts for the Ford stuff.
Thanks all for the input, this is all good stuff!
Thanks all for the input, this is all good stuff!
#11
It’s been a wonderful reprieve working on the 442 compared to the 2 Fords I have. Parts are crazy expensive and the rich guys have arguably ruined that corner of of the hobby. Doing this 442 takes me back to the way it was when I started messing with cars in the early 80’s. I’m loving it !!!
As I mentioned, the tackle box idea was something I saw pro restoration guys doing as they were restoring one of Craig Jackson’s Shelbys. What I have found is that I often go in and out if those tackle boxes for various reasons. As you begin buying doodads...and forgetting what you have and haven’t purchased, you’ll find yourself often looking through the clear lid.
i have most of the large interior parts in the attic. I’ve hung a lot of stuff on my shop walls. Motor is on engine stand and tranny strapped to tranny jack on casters. It’s a crap load of stuff so get your system dialed in early on.
One of biggest killers is loosing momentum. I force myself to spend SOME amount of time every day on the project. Even if it’s only 10 minutes. Project will fade in my rear view if I don’t stay engaged. 10-15 minutes a day doesn’t sound like much but it keeps things rolling....for me anyway.
As I mentioned, the tackle box idea was something I saw pro restoration guys doing as they were restoring one of Craig Jackson’s Shelbys. What I have found is that I often go in and out if those tackle boxes for various reasons. As you begin buying doodads...and forgetting what you have and haven’t purchased, you’ll find yourself often looking through the clear lid.
i have most of the large interior parts in the attic. I’ve hung a lot of stuff on my shop walls. Motor is on engine stand and tranny strapped to tranny jack on casters. It’s a crap load of stuff so get your system dialed in early on.
One of biggest killers is loosing momentum. I force myself to spend SOME amount of time every day on the project. Even if it’s only 10 minutes. Project will fade in my rear view if I don’t stay engaged. 10-15 minutes a day doesn’t sound like much but it keeps things rolling....for me anyway.
#12
A full frame off restoration can be fun but overwhelming. If it's safe to drive you could restore some of the parts like the trim and most of the body work and keep it together for a while. There have been numerous restoration projects that turn into parts cars because people lose interest because the project takes too much time. It also takes 3X's the space after it's taken apart and the new boxes of parts arrive. Grannys442 and others gave out great tips. If you treat the documentation and tear down like a guide for someone to reassemble it from your notes you shouldn't have a problem when the time comes to put it back together.
#13
.....One of biggest killers is loosing momentum. I force myself to spend SOME amount of time every day on the project. Even if it’s only 10 minutes. Project will fade in my rear view if I don’t stay engaged. 10-15 minutes a day doesn’t sound like much but it keeps things rolling....for me anyway.
#14
Well, I've got a friend coming over today to help with the tear down process. My goal is to have the body completely stripped by the end of the fourth of July weekend if not before. Next goal is cleaning up and boxing the frame before the sheet metal comes back from the blaster, then on to body work. Never tackled body work before, we'll see how that goes.
#15
baggies with notes in them with lots of pictures.
put into boxes with labels
Never procrastinate on notes or pictures or drawings.
I also go by sections.
front clip, dash, trunk, right door, etc. the sections i choose are based on what i consider a assembly or grouping.
I have a very good memory of where things go and came from. but after 3 years and 2 distraction projects. boy those photos and notes sure can help.
I love the tackle box, small parts tray ideas.
put into boxes with labels
Never procrastinate on notes or pictures or drawings.
I also go by sections.
front clip, dash, trunk, right door, etc. the sections i choose are based on what i consider a assembly or grouping.
I have a very good memory of where things go and came from. but after 3 years and 2 distraction projects. boy those photos and notes sure can help.
I love the tackle box, small parts tray ideas.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
72oldscutlass442
General Discussion
73
September 27th, 2021 09:14 AM