My wonderful wife got me a new top for Christmas. Woohoo!! I had to order a couple of things since she went thru opgi and since they say it in the catalog and on the "instructions" to have someone else do it. LOL hard to believe a company that sells restoration parts to the masses suggest paying someone else. They don't actually sell a"kit" let alone offer staples and glue. Agreed. The first one I did was an interesting experience, it was by no means a job that HAS to be farmed out. I understand some people just don't want to as I am the same about transmissions. Anyway price was good. Had to` order a stapler.... I swore I would never do another.. and sold the last stapler I bought but then again never thought I would sell that car. So since the temp is about to drop to freezing it may be a few weeks until install. ugh.

 

Congrats! If you have the time you might take some photos of the process. At least the places that are hard or tricky and post them for others to see and learn from.


John

 

Can do.. On the last install It took me and a buddy about 4-5 hours. Now that was with a fresh clean slate. Removing, cleaning, painting and new tack strips took a few hours. The material needs to be warm to work with. If anyone is interested here is a 20 min video that is pretty good.

 

Cool Vid. So 8 hours is with 2 guys. No wonder shops charge so much, it's all labor and know how!

 

Wow looking forward to this... although I dont think I will do my own top. Do you need stainless steel staples? I am so impressed with the things folks will do themselves here on the forum.

 

Eddie, yes on the SS staples. About 50,000 of them it seems. Several years ago a friend and upholstery guy I know quoted me $1500. I was in shock because the material was only $400 but then again I didn't ask if he would put new seals for the top and windows. I had already bought that stuff so it didn't cross my mind if that was included. A complete kit of seals and top pus stapler is about $900 so that brings the labor down to $600. I can not make that much in 8 hours or 10 or 12 and so on. And that is how I decided I do convertible tops. Of course that is how I decided to paint my last car too.

 

The "conventional" convertible tops are not a problem to do - just finicky and, especially if you haven't done a lot of them, time consuming.

My Dad and I did one many years ago on his '47 Mercury, and then about ten years after that did one on a '71 Skylark I had. Basically the same job for both cars because the top design really never changed. It took us about two days to do the Skylark, with stops and starts and yelling at each other ("Pull it this way!" "No, the directions say to pull it THAT way!" "I don't care about the directions - Do what I told you!" etc...). We basically had to do it twice: Once to get it close, then again once we had it figured out (don't make any holes until you are SURE everything's in the right place for the LAST time ).
As I say, not hard, but it requires patience and a patient helper who's got a clue.

Now. the scissor top on my '73 is an entirely different design, and I do NOT look forward to doing that one...

- Eric

 

I am planning on attempting my 65 98 top myself. A good thread on install would be helpful. I swear I found a place a few years back that had videos of various older makes being done, and the shop was offering free install with certain conditions if they did not have a video for your car. I can't for the life of me find this place again.
Mine is going to be interesting as my car came with no old top or padding to go by.
Good luck.

 

It's a little easier than you think even without a top to go by. Center is center. New top is marked where tack strips go. The rest stretches over the header. I had read a manual to do mine the first time. The video above was not out yet but has all the information needed. I would have killed 2 hours into the first top to see that video. One thing the video does not show is installing a well liner at the same time up from the bottom. This adds a level of difficulty. working with all three tack strips and attaching the liner. I may try glueing it up first this time.

 

Well certainly x2 on a thread, I have a 69 that needs a top lol.... a question you may be able to answer it seems my car might have come with a gold interior? And black on the outside? With the paint schemei am doing I would like to have a white top and gold interior do tops come with any colour options? I havent seen any choices but thought I would ask.

 

The place I would have purchased from has these colors available. I'm sure with enough $$$$ or vendor any other color could be made.

 

I was going to do mine but after watching videos & talking to folks, I chickened out and had a pro do it. Not sorry.

 

I installed a new top on my first '67 CS vert. It was a lot of fitting and checking, and checking and fitting some more before I actually put in a staple or screw. The old top was ratty and the rear window was pretty much gone but most of the top was intact so I was able to check it over real close before starting. It turned out pretty well, nice and tight when the top was closed with no wrinkles or sags. I will be installing the new top on my current '67 vert as well. It came with a vinyl top in the trunk when I bought it but I may spring for a better quality top before too long.

 

Measure rear bar position to body. 22" in my case. Lower top. Remove window seal screws and front header seal screws. Remove seals. Pull up staples holding top on front bow. The top is glued here also. Peel it back. raise top to get to middle and rear window seals Remove screws holding top to center bow and remove retainer strap from top. You can get to the cables with the top about half way up Remove back seat to get to rear well vinal. Remove screws from retainer and lift up to get to rear molded tack strips bolted to body. Remove 15 bolts this allows back of top to be removed. I used a box cutter to cut top off rear bar and use a staple remover to finish up. All my tack strips need to be replaced.

 

 

 

Keep up the pics. I never had a top so unsure of distance to rear bow on my 98.
Is the new top marked? What brand/make is your new top?

 

I think I found the measurement here.http://http://www.robbinsautotopco.com/oldsmobile.php

 

Thanks for the pics + info. I know each top manufacturer has their own specified rear bow height for each particular model + year. You can go on like Electron's site or Kee's site and see their recommendation. That measurement is usually from the edge of the pinchweld chrome to the bow (edge, center?). It's good to know what it is at the start, it's good to know the recommendation. I'm not sure how much difference it really makes, but I'm sure it affects the look and fit of the top somewhat. I've been debating and researching trying to decide if I want to try to do mine.

 

All of the required measurements and instructions are in the Fisher Body Manual.

- Eric

 

I have been looking in the 65 FBM a number of times and have not found the dimension from the rear bow to the pinch moulding yet. Not saying it ain't there and it ain't the first time something was there I couldn't find. Found dimension from rear bow to center bow.

 

Right...despite what Eric said, that measurement is NOT in the book, at least not mine for 70. It only talks about making a reference measurement and mark. Some tops ARE marked there, some have slots cut in the top at that point. The rear bow height matters for the "look" + fit. I don't think it really matters for the installation, you can be 1" off and it will still go on there. If you look at 'verts...I'm 61, I remember them new and I see a lot every year. When they were new, the roofline looked almost like a regular roofline. Now sometimes you see them and they look funky, like chopped behind the bow, or tipped forward, the line is not smooth.

 

All the sites you referenced show the same dimension for my 98. 27.5
I have ordered the install manual from convertible top guys to start planning and reading. The FBM scares me from attempting it, but I figure the top makers made the task easier through the years. It is important to me to do 90-95% of my rebuild myself, and if I pay someone to do the work the car will have more in it then it will ever be worth.
Sorry to the OP, don't mean to be hijacking thread, thanks for getting this info out there, and thanks to anyone for their experiences and comments.

 

Yes, I just looked at the FBM (as best I can while at work), and the only measurement shown is between the center bow and the rear bow - none from the rear bow to the trim stick.

That being said, I think it's for a reason: the center bow should be pretty much a stable position, while the trim stick and body moulding may vary with production tolerances, collision damage, etc.

If the rear bow is properly located with regard to the center bow, it should be in the right place.

- Eric

 

This top came from OPGI (gift) It is marked on the box 20 1/2 inches for the bow and mine was at 22". It is marked at the lower tack strip for fit with a chalk line. The one I got from Convertible top guys for my 66 lemans just had x's marked for bolt holes. The one for my 66 also had slits cut to line up rear bow. This top doesn't but has a noticeable strip where the staples should be. Also sorry about the photo's I will post more later. I do this stuff by myself and it's hard to stop and take pictures when I get rolling. More to come. And anyone can comment on anything to do with their car. doesn't bother me

 

68convert, thanks for your good attitude and your info. I know what you mean about taking pics when your in the zone.
MD, I guess the starting point given in the FBM really doesn't matter if it is from the center bow or the pinch weld, it should work out the same. I'll measure it and compare.
Thanks to all commenting. This is really gonna help. I have absolutely no vert experience.

 

A few questions when you have the chance.
1. Is your top pinpoint vinyl or canvas?
2. Plastic or glass window?
3. Zipper or no zipper?
4. I have no bolts for the rear tack strip. Unsure of thread type and size. Can you post a pic of yours?
Thanks

 

Pinpoint vinyl
Plastic
No zipper but the one for my lemans had that. Makes no difference in install. I would have got zippered if given the option. OPGI doesnt offer. CTG do. This top has no vinal sewn to the top of the window so it staples right thru the plastic. Both were the same at the bottom. Staple thru the window.

I'll get you a picture later.

 

Found this place with videos of installs. They have one for 64-65 Cutlass http://aoksales.com/
Advertise 100$ install plus materials for vehicles they have no video for if the car meets certain criteria. In PA.
I'll let you all know if I get one how it is.

 

 

Has a 7/16 head. They screw directly into the inner body. Most holes are wallowed out some. You can use lag screws and is what I will use on reinstall on any wallowed out holes.

 

Great, thanks very much.

 

Life has thrown some curveballs at me. Will update some things at a later date. Got the top on. Have another adjustment or two to make.

 

Looks nice, good job!