ah64pilot

Man, I'm sorry to hear that. What all does it need? I know you must be bummed after having it running for such a short time.

67Olds442X2

Doesn't need much, basic rebuild stuff and another crank re-done, just don't have the spare change right now. Next year maybe. Bummed is the word.

ah64pilot

I feel for you. Mine should be painted next week. Right now I'm trying to find bucket seats and an electric fuel system. I've never plummed an electric system so finding a kit has proved difficult. I'm trying not to waste money by buying stuff I don't need.

67Olds442X2

Here's a link, not exactly what you need but may give idea on pump location.

http://www.realoldspower.com/phpBB2/...ight=fuel+tank

ah64pilot

Hey thanks! I guess I just need to build my own system. How is the return plummed back to the tank? Is it tank - pump - filter - regulator - tank?

67Olds442X2

Here's a link to Holley's Blue pump instructions. Doesn't talk about a return. Has filter before pump.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-12-802-1/?rtype=1

ah64pilot

I think I've got it all figured out...between RobbMC and Summit I'm going to spend about $800 for all of it, pick up to carburetor in 1/2" / -8 AN.

ah64pilot

The VFN hood has been fitted...the ONE spot of glass is the only thing that had to be worked. Great fit and finish, if you plan on ordering an aftermarket W-25 hood, go with VFN.



They modified the hood to work with factory hood latch...my factory hood was junk so they cut it up and reinforced the fiberglass hood with the steel hood latch and safety latch.



The core support was painted...



They pulled it all back apart after the fit was verified and as of today, we are next up for the paint booth...

ah64pilot

I pulled an all nighter last night to paint the interior trim parts. The car is being painted Pepper Grey Metallic so the GREEN interior has to go black. I used SEM paint and Adhesive Promoter, this stuff seems to stick really well but it isn't cheap...about $14 a can. This wasn't a fun part of the job, I started at 10pm and finished at 5 am...



I used a gloss black on the metal parts, don't ask me why...it does look really good though



I could've done it quicker but I was restoring some W-Z manifolds at the same time, a little gift to my dad. I cleaned these up with wax and grease remover, drilled out broken bolts from the exhaust pipe "collector", painted them with VHT ceramic paint, then cured them in the oven.

Allan R

Nice work Steve.
Looks like you got the VFN hood with the functional air box? Been thinking of going that way too. How much tweaking is under that repair; was it a high or low spot? The one I was thinking about was the 595.00 hood. How much work was involved with cutting out the metal front liner and putting it into your VFN? I want to keep the hood latch and T44 locking system.

BTW - excellent work on the interior parts. Stuff like that takes time. If you rush it, it looks like crap. By the pics you took the time to do it right.

ah64pilot

The hood I got IS the $595.00 hood...I got a military discount and it was $560 - ish. Shipping to a freight yard for pick up was $116...to my door would've been more.

The spot that they repaired was a 'low' spot. The back lined up, the gap between the fenders and hood was perfect all the way on both sides...it just needed a little more glass on the front left to bring it up to be flush with the front part of the fender. Honestly, it would've passed but I'm a little OCD so I had them do it. The body man rated the hood as a 9.5 on a 10 scale, 10 being bolt it right on.

The hood latch and safety latch were simple. They cut holes that match the stock hood, and an access hole on the back side just like the factory hood. They then cut the old hood (mine was trash) metal piece out where the latch and safety are. They bonded that to the inside of the VFN and then bolted the safety latch on as added insurance. Took them 2 hours. I could've done it but I want it done before the car is painted so...

I am so happy with the interior plastic parts! I used soap and water, grease and wax remover, SEM adhesive promoter, and THEN painted them with SEM rattle can Satin Black. At $15 a can, I wasn't going to waste it...so I took my time and cleaned the pieces really well. I started at 10 pm last Thursday night, and finished at 5 am Friday morning. The only problem now is that my "restored" center console I got off ebay looks like poop sitting next to the pieces I painted...now I've got to paint the "restored" console. Geez

Allan R

Nice.
Looks like VFN leaves the hood cutouts for you to do to make the airbox functional? In their on line picture it looks like they have some kind of screening over the air box. Is it metal mesh or the nylon type?

ah64pilot

The air box is fully functional and I believe you can have them add the screen. I did not as I am not making a factory W-30 car. I may fabricate a functional air cleaner but it will not include the flapper door...I'm planning to use a filter top K&N with a larger base and seal it to the hood with foam.

This hood bolts right on, is functional, and only weighs 30 lbs or so...My father has a reproduction factory hood on his '72 Vista and it weighs a ton! I'm only 31, I've got some 1/4 mile racing in my system so I opted for a lighter version.

RetroRanger

great thread ah64pilot thanks for posting Im liking the VFN hood alot !!!

Im also interested in the SEM paint let us know if after some use there are any issues thanks

ah64pilot

Thanks! I am really impressed with the VFN hood myself. I have wanted to put one of these on this car for about 15 years now. Now that I have the big boy money I thought, what the hell...I'm so glad I did it.

It'll be a few weeks before the car gets the interior installed but I'll let you know how the SEM paint holds up. According to people that have used it before it seems you may never hear back from me...that it flaked off that is.

ah64pilot

I got hooked up with Dan DaVinci, owner of DaVinci Performance Carburetors. I won't give details but I am getting a deal on a custom carburetor for my 455. When I receive the carburetor I will post pics...

Now I just need to figure out how to get fuel up to it when the time comes.

ah64pilot

Went to the body shop today...just wanted to check out the paint color before the whole car is sprayed. Yes, that's right...the jams are done. And tomorrow, the rest of the car follows

Here is a contrast against the satin black of the cowl area:



Another angle of the same section:





The underside of the hood - indoors:





The underside of the hood - outdoors:





I can't wait to see the rest of the car painted...for what it cost, it sure is a great experience!

67Olds442X2

Looking good. I need to paint my VFN hood also. I should have gotten the one with the 4" cowl, ended up cutting into the fake louvers.

scubastever

lookin good man...

did you need to go with the VFN low tension hood springs as well?

my VFN hood needed 'em (67 442 fiberglass hood)

oldcutlass

Coming along nice!!!

SLABB ROCK

hey buddy am just starting out, on my restoration. where do i start, i have alot of work.

ah64pilot

For now I am using the stock springs. This VFN is the bolt on hood that weighs about 30 pounds (I think). It's not too much heavier than the original hood and with the stock springs at the bottom, almost latched, the springs don't have enough tension to lift the hood. So for now, I think it is ok with the stock springs.

Without knowing ANYTHING about your car, I couldn't tell you. A little more info and we may be able to give you some direction...sorry

ah64pilot

The car is back! I missed a few days worth of progress but at this point we are done with the exterior (bumpers, grills, emblems, etc). My dad came in from Austin to help with the assembly process. It was really nice to get to work with him again, we haven't worked on a Cutlass together since I was 17...very nice indeed!









I am ready to install the engine, but I went to pick up my DaVinci Carburetor today and Dad offered to pay for the dyno time so Dan DaVinci will be dyno tuning the engine next week. I guess I can wait to put it in the car I can't wait to get the sheet back...I just hope it makes as much power as we wanted it to.

oldsguybry

wow , that really looks great , that is one nice car.... you are doing a great job , im jealous that I couldnt work on my project with my dad cause hes no longer with us.... your a very lucky man with a very nice car

ah64pilot

I almost lost him back in March...pneumonia. He was in a coma for 2 weeks while on a roto-bed. I sort of MADE this project happen while he was around to see it...he bought the car back in 1990 from the original owner (old lady). He has never seen it look this nice

cutlassgal

Great job!!!! It looks beautiful!

Allan R

Very nice. Glad your Dad is ok and able to help you out. What color is that - Pewter? Your OAI hood looks like a perfect fit!

ah64pilot

Don't hate me...it is Dupont 44490 Pepper Gray Metallic formerly seen on one "Eleanor" in Gone in 60 Seconds

The hood was almost perfect, I had to trim the "tooth" area to clear the 442 grills but it was negligible. The back "almost" lines up with about 1/8" difference in fender chrome trim and the stainless 'clip on' strip on the back of the hood. For the money, I am very happy with the hood!

Allan R

Repop grilles right? How much difficulty did you have getting that little tab to fit the inboard side and then get the other mount tabs good? I've been playing with mine for a little bit but I don't want to break the darn things. BTW, did you have to install new metal mounting tabs at the bottom outer to make them fit right? I've got a set of them(bought on ebay) that the PO says are only for 442 grills. I might have got taken on that, but thought I'd ask. Your car looks fantastic! You going to stripe it?

ah64pilot

Nope These are original grills my dad found years ago. They've been on the car for about 5 years...we just repainted them. All the trim fit perfectly because, well, the factory installed it These grills were only offered on the 442 but will fit either. I am keeping my car a Cutlass Supreme, I am not trying to pose as anything other...I just like the style of the 442 grill with the W-25 hood. I actually modified my grills to accept the original "Oldsmobile" script that was on the egg crate grills from the factory.

Allan R

ah64pilot

Actually it was really easy...Just use the bottom left hole of the "442" holes and then drill for the other 2 holes of the "Oldsmobile" script. One of them almost lines up but not quite. With the black backing on the "Oldsmobile" script it covers the "442" holes and looks pretty clean. Use washers on the back side to get it tight against the grill.





Sorry for the fish eye effect, the GoPro was close by and easiest to download pics from.

ah64pilot

So the engine is complete, got the carburetor today...Holly HP 950 Center section, DaVinci Performance on all the rest

ah64pilot

Houston! We are ready for liftoff! This ROCKET is dyno ready! PS, for those that can clear it, I have always had really good results with the FRAM HP2 oil filter seen in the first picture. It is a 1 quart filter and I have never had oil pressure problems when using it. At $14.95 each it's a bit pricey, but when compared to our engines, it's cheap insurance.





I needed a fuel pump block off plate ASAP for the dyno and Rocket Racing's website was down so I opted for option B...I just made one. I used 1/8" X 1 1/2" weld steel and traced the shape using a fuel pump gasket. After cutting 3 of the angle cuts with a dremel, I then rounded one end, not attached to the rest of the steel. I then drilled the two holes marked with the gasket. Once that was done, I made the final angle cut which separated the "block off" from the steel bar. I finished the other end with a dremel grinding stone and then wire wheeled the whole thing to get the galvanization/paint off of it. After test fitting, I used 3 coats of 500° gunmetal grey and installed the plate. I added the Edelbrock "Made in USA" tag because, well, I made it and I live in the USA



I also installed the fuel feed line on the carburetor and then used some 3/8" steel braided hose and some A/N push on fittings to make a neat little PCV hose going to manifold vacuum. I also temporarily mounted the coil to the manifold for the dyno, but it will get relocated to firewall on final install.



I'm trying to keep this engine clean looking so I used NPT/AN push on fittings for the brake booster and A/C vacuum hoses. I capped them off for the dyno but we'll have them functional when the engine is installed in the car.



We shall see what kind of power she makes, I have heard everything from 450 (CutlassEFI) to 560 (my neighbor). Either way, I think the guy that built the carburetor should be able to make power with it...I've heard he's one of the best in the business

citcapp

sa---weet, almost to purtty to install and use. Would make a good book end for the one I just got back from the machine shop Post the Dyno results when done please.

ah64pilot

Oh I will...I'll post them here and in the Big Block section. I am excited, I'll be up there all day participating in the dyno session. I'm going to take tons of pics and some video...I'll share as much as the servers will let me lol!

I was a little disappointed to have to remove all of the polished brackets but they'll go back on...this is the best looking engine I've ever had. Almost a shame to drive it

67Olds442X2

Looks very cool. Should be a screamer. Steve, what valve covers you got, I had to double gasket my M\T's and I don't think they'll hold out. I like the ones you got, I may just get the GM performance set.

ah64pilot

Dan, I'm afraid to say...when you mention "Mondello" on this site everyone starts balking! lol! Actually, they are from Mondello...they are 1" taller than stock so they clear the aftermarket roller rockers. The only problem is that the stock brackets (over the VC) won't clear them. That was my excuse for getting the polished bracket system

ah64pilot

Alright fella's, here it is...dyno results! Video at bottom

Engine dyno done at Faerman Racing Engines:



I got to hang out all day and participate, I actually had to do all the work...I'm kind of wondering why I PAID $600 to work on my own engine? WTH? lol!



Dennis Faerman and Dan DaVinci ran the dyno



And in this run we made 485 horsepower and 540 ft/lbs of torque



My video camera died for the last few runs but we ended up making 491 horsepower / 544 ft/lbs torque. I will scan and post the final results once I get them...printer ran out of ink so I have to wait a day or two until they can print and scan the sheet. Overall, I'm happy with the performance. I would've loved to have broken 500 hp but for a 98 degree day in Houston, I think we did ok

Video:



Engine Conditions: 93 Octane (bought today), 35 total timing, NO DETONATION!!!

Engine Specs:

- Fa Block - bored .060" (468 C.I.), decked .006" (maybe more by previous build, deck height is less than .005), de-burred, oil restrictors in 2,3,4 main journals
- Nodular crank - Shot peened, ARP main studs, Billet steel main cap straps (2,3,4 mains)
- Stock rods - Shot peened, ARP rod bolts
- Keith Black IC886 Flat top pistons .060" oversize (CR 10.63 w/ .040" gasket)
- High pressure / High volume oil pump, chromeoly hardened drive shaft, 8 quart pan, full length windage tray
- Engle cam - (Mondello MPV 1-2) Solid flat tappet 557/574 lift, 244/252 Duration @ .050", 110 lobe separation
- Timing chain - Cloyes true roller (double) w/ cam spacer and bushing
- Push rods - 3/8" oversize, hardened, oil restricting
- Rocker arms - 1:6 ratio aluminum roller
- Edelbrock heads - CNC ported, ARP 7/16" head studs
- Edelbrock Torker intake - Ported, port matched to heads, plenum cone
- Holly 4150 HP 950 - Built specifically for this engine by DaVinci PERFORMANCE CARBURETORS
- MSD Pro Billet Distributor 8566
- MSD 6AL Ignition Control Box
- NGK Spark plugs R5671A-7

RAMBOW

Nice results & Vid.

Can you repost your engine specs again?