My '69 442 W30 Body Off!
#41
When this all started I used to shake my head at the guys that buy parts from me at Keen Parts Inc (we do Corvette parts) and spend what they spend on hardware, but now I am doing it too! I can't help it, I spend my days studying head marks and colors of bolts for Corvettes and really get into discussing what is supposed to be there (correct) and what is really there. To answer your question, at this point I am going to say I will drive it, but ..............
#42
I didn't go but managed to spend $600 (correct bolts etc) and it should have been $700. My buddy called me about a problem with my order and since I didn't answer the phone I got more parts for the same price!
#43
The latest on the W
Okay, frame has been welded where someone got excited with a tow strap I guess. The core support is repaired in the usual spot and the arms (front and rear) are empty of bushings and ball joints. So Monday it's off to the sandblaster!
#45
I do wish it was done, but then again this is a lot of fun to do! In all seriousness though, the pic is a fiberglass hood W car so therefore not a '69 but I like the humor and it is needed!
#46
I just keep buying.......
Sorry it has been a while. Progress is good a lot of parts buying and everything is at the sandblaster so now we wait. In case anyone wants to know, I have yet to have a problem with Inline they have been great. Out of all of my chassis parts they back ordered one pair of spiral shocks. I may add some new pics tonight but I rebooted my phone so they may be gone for good. And Tim, I may have lost your number so if you read this gimmie a call please......
#47
Socks??
O.K. so no one wants to make that decision for me huh? On to the next problem..... I have the wrong drive shaft!!!!!! Any help as in dimensions etc would be great. It is a '69 4 speed W........
#49
awesome....
Dan did you get your driveshaft measurements? My car is a 69 4 speed I can measure for you if you if you still need it. Sorry. None for sale maybe send wtony a message he might be able to help u or point u in right direction
Great job so far
Great job so far
#50
saw your other post...
Dan, I saw your other post, I only asked this am on my way to work if you needed measurements and I am only on my way home now, sorry you can't find a drive shaft but I can't sell you what I don't have I'll give you the yoke to yoke tonight as soon as I get into the garage. Did you try wtony here on the forum,?
Last edited by Eddie Hansen; February 25th, 2014 at 02:42 PM. Reason: autocorrect changed wtony to wrong i fixed it
#52
Dan,
Nice work on your car so far. Subscribed to follow along.
Eddie, which differential do you have in your car? Yeah, I know, I could go look at your thread. I assume by your description you measured center of Ujoint cap to center of same on the opposite end?
Dan, I assume you have the stock O style differential? If the differential in your car and Eddie's is not the same, then the driveshaft measurement will be a moot point. I have a driveshaft in my shed and I can measure it tomorrow and let you know.
Brian
Nice work on your car so far. Subscribed to follow along.
Eddie, which differential do you have in your car? Yeah, I know, I could go look at your thread. I assume by your description you measured center of Ujoint cap to center of same on the opposite end?
Dan, I assume you have the stock O style differential? If the differential in your car and Eddie's is not the same, then the driveshaft measurement will be a moot point. I have a driveshaft in my shed and I can measure it tomorrow and let you know.
Brian
#53
yes
Brian yes it is a type o rear end I measured the drive shaft only from yoke center to yoke center I also have an m-20 and I suspect the w30 would have an m.21 but I do not know, I also don't know if the yokes are different, between the two trannys, te number of splines etc
The shaft is not in the car if there are other measurements required I can get them
The shaft is not in the car if there are other measurements required I can get them
Last edited by Eddie Hansen; February 25th, 2014 at 06:01 PM.
#54
I measured the shaft I have and center to center on the U joint caps is 55 1/2". If I measure the center of the rear Ujoint to where the yoke appears to be riding on the trans tail shaft seal, it is roughly 59". I don't know which yoke is on this shaft but I suspect it may be for an automatic.
I think we need to hear back from Dan...or is it Kyle?
Brian
I think we need to hear back from Dan...or is it Kyle?
Brian
#55
It's Dan Brian, isn't the sizes listed in the chasis manual? I am just thinking that they are I'll have a look and a remeasure, but I am sure it is 56" although I have no u joints in there , to be clear this is the drive shaft only measured with no u joints, and no yoke attached, it is the shaft that is two different diameters large on one end going to a smaller tube size on the other end.
I really think Dan was looking to buy one, but as you say there are a couple of variables.
I really think Dan was looking to buy one, but as you say there are a couple of variables.
#56
I saw another post of his and Kyle was on it but in looking back at it he was thanking someone named Kyle.
Yes, I measured just the shaft only although mine still has the Ujoints and the yoke. And the one I have is a 2 piece shaft like you mentioned. The smaller section is all the way down at the differential end and only has a few inches showing. Not sure what this came out of as it came with the 442C truck load of parts.
Brian
Yes, I measured just the shaft only although mine still has the Ujoints and the yoke. And the one I have is a 2 piece shaft like you mentioned. The smaller section is all the way down at the differential end and only has a few inches showing. Not sure what this came out of as it came with the 442C truck load of parts.
Brian
#58
Sorry.....
Hello and thanks for the compliments. First, my name on here is Daniel because that is my first name. I actually go by Kyle which is my middle name. When I register for something and it says first name this is what always happens. Call me either, no worries.
Second, I want to apologize for my aggravated post as I spend all day doing customer service and then when I call places with simple questions I can’t get any in return I tend to get pissed. So, thank all of you for the concern over my drive shaft issue and I am grateful for all the help now and in the future.
Second, I want to apologize for my aggravated post as I spend all day doing customer service and then when I call places with simple questions I can’t get any in return I tend to get pissed. So, thank all of you for the concern over my drive shaft issue and I am grateful for all the help now and in the future.
#59
Kyle no problem from my side, I fully understand wanting a correct piece, and rightfully so on a correct 69 w-30.
do you have the O type rear end? anychance it is a canadian built car because then it might have a heavier duty "chevy" real 12 bolt in it and that might effect drive shaft yoke size etc. I am uncertain if an m-21 and an m-20 are exactly the same size I think so but again not sure.
I measured the shaft i have and it is as I said 56" I do not have any spares, sorry.
Did you get in contact with Tony Bonafonte? ( wtony on the forum)
Tony 732-773-8330 he posted this contact info on a 68 4 speed he was selling so I hope he doesn't mind me sharing it
he is a GREAT guy and has lots of resources so give him a try if he doesn't have one he may know where to get one. He also has a 1969 w-30 which is GORGEOUS BTW
hope it helps.
and I will keep my eyes open for you
do you have the O type rear end? anychance it is a canadian built car because then it might have a heavier duty "chevy" real 12 bolt in it and that might effect drive shaft yoke size etc. I am uncertain if an m-21 and an m-20 are exactly the same size I think so but again not sure.
I measured the shaft i have and it is as I said 56" I do not have any spares, sorry.
Did you get in contact with Tony Bonafonte? ( wtony on the forum)
Tony 732-773-8330 he posted this contact info on a 68 4 speed he was selling so I hope he doesn't mind me sharing it
he is a GREAT guy and has lots of resources so give him a try if he doesn't have one he may know where to get one. He also has a 1969 w-30 which is GORGEOUS BTW
hope it helps.
and I will keep my eyes open for you
#60
Here are the latest pics. I have been working on it after work for three hours a night Monday through yesterday so far and am sure I will be there today as well. I have replaced all hardware with "correct" and all front to rear fuel and brake lines are done. Painting the engine today and trans. Front spiral shocks show up Monday and drive shaft Wednesday. Gardner Exhaust this week too!
#64
Fun after work!!
O.K., I went over and installed the front spiral shocks and, o yeah, painted the engine. I will apply the other can worth tomorrow several thin coats at a time until it"s "right". My Gardner Exhaust will be here Wednesday and the drive shaft tomorrow so it's officially an Oldsmobile week!
#65
So excited I forgot to ask!!
I forgot to mention I need help, which engine mount and plate combination should I use? I have the original plates and mounts dated april 69 and I have the repop ones from inline tube. It seems to me that the 455 is taller than the 400 and the engine I have is a 455. I know wrong color.....
#67
Please re read the question.....
What I need to know is which metal plates should I use at the frame? The 1969 400 plates are different then the 68 400 or 69-72 455. The motor mounts are the same that is true. Thanks in advance.
#68
The 1969 400 plates are different then the 68 400 or 69-72 455.
============
Dat a fact??
If only someone here had all the skinny on motor mounts...
[seek and ye shall find]
I thought '68 was same for BB and SB then '69-72 had SB vs BB types. The only difference between a 400 and a 455 or any other BB is the bore/stroke. Nothing motor mount wise.
Motor mount pads to frame bolts are probably a lot easier with the A-arms not in yet. I know they are a tough task with the A-arms in the way.
Shouldn't a MT car have the rear frame stiffers?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1964-65-66-6...c8e533&vxp=mtr
============
Dat a fact??
If only someone here had all the skinny on motor mounts...
[seek and ye shall find]
I thought '68 was same for BB and SB then '69-72 had SB vs BB types. The only difference between a 400 and a 455 or any other BB is the bore/stroke. Nothing motor mount wise.
Motor mount pads to frame bolts are probably a lot easier with the A-arms not in yet. I know they are a tough task with the A-arms in the way.
Shouldn't a MT car have the rear frame stiffers?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/1964-65-66-6...c8e533&vxp=mtr
#69
Catalog Error
Hello all, I must apologize for asking a question that wad unnecessary. See the picture and you will find why I thought 69 400 plates were special. I guess it is a typo on Inline Tube's behalf.....
#73
great progress
kyle making great progress, as for the plates it is my understanding you could even have used the 350 plate. As long as you use the 350 motor mounts, I know yours is a 400 and all is good now, anyway keep on truck in won't be long now
#75
Thanks for all the information and pics! great restoration it is motivating me to get back on my 69 W30 I have alot more body work and rust repair but I just have to get going again, I have had this car for 33 years! Cant wait to get going and get it done. Hope to see yours running soon!
#76
Big Trouble, Little China........ I am now afraid that I did not put the body mounts in the correct places. The assembly manual is to me unclear, and I cannot find any good pictures for anything other than 70-72. Someone please help as I don't want to lift the body anymore than maybe one more time. My issue is that there are 2 special cushions with a "very deep washer top" and the rest appear all the same, except those that require no bolt. So, where specifically do those two go, and I hope it is directly next to where the boxed arm is bolted to the frame.
Tim, if you read this I will gladly pay you to come to Cincy and straighten me out......
Tim, if you read this I will gladly pay you to come to Cincy and straighten me out......
#78
I guess it is an addiction....
O.K., so the W30 is still awaiting paint..... So I bought a 1967 Toronado!!
This is a untouched original "Debonnet" color inside and out with power everything and it all still works! The problem is I have a lower end knock and want to drive it. Does anyone out there have a Toro 425 that is worthy of dropping in?
This is a untouched original "Debonnet" color inside and out with power everything and it all still works! The problem is I have a lower end knock and want to drive it. Does anyone out there have a Toro 425 that is worthy of dropping in?
#79
I'm Still Waiting
Hello everyone, I just wanted to let you guys all know that progress is slow we are working on the windshield frame at the bottom where the dash meets the cowl. She will be wearing paint soon I am told, but that has been said before. I will let you guys know when there is more to tell........