Holy hell is the 4L80E a tight fit. The cooler lines barely fit, even with 90 degree adapters for the 6AN lines. One sensor also just touches. I forgot to start the dipstick, barely got it in. Added two more holes and stretched one for the crossmember to fit. The driveshaft is tight, hit the pinion nut. The suspension is all the way up, rear arms on stands. I will put the stands on the frame, install and see if it allows most of the travel. I threw a liter in the converter and drained the pan, nice and red, this is what was left, very happy with what I found.

 

Well, I am going need a shorter driveshaft. It needs to be 1" shorter minimum, if not 1.5". I am kind of bummed the factory column shifter will not work. I have a TCI Fastgate shifter that will go in. Of course the cable is close to the header and cat, it is adjusted and ready to hook up. I used the two minimum hardened washers and added another thin one on the torque converter bolts. Good thing I trimmed the torque converter snout edge, it protruded, and would have jammed against the back of the crank, looks to just clear the crank pilot, I did measure. Installed the new Amazon special steel pan with a drain plug. I reused the perfect looking rigid core pan gasket with silicone beads and torque limiters. I also used the magnet from the old pan. I also drilled and tapped the case to accept the two bottom bolts on the dust cover, used nice flanged 1/4 valve cover bolts. The TH350 didn't completely cover the bottom, so I used a piece of a rubber 4L60E pan gasket to finish sealing it. I also plugged in the wiring harness and routed and clipped up the braided cooler lines. They are long enough to route away from the headers. Other than the driveshaft, everything is done underneath. I still need to add power to the trans harness, mount the relay, modify the ECM case to plug in the trans connector.

 

I think I found a drive shaft. Of course it would help if every place measured centerline to centerline. My current drive shaft is a hair under 60" with a long yoke. A 1996 to 2005 Chebby Blazer has a 3.5" diameter, 3R joints and should be a 27 spline output and is 58.87", so 2" shorter. I will measure tonight but it should work. One inch might just clear and have minimal clearance, 2" should have plenty of engagement and no chance of destroying the rear housing under hard driving. I already have the conversion U joint on this driveshaft. It will be around $300 through Amazon. The 2.5" Fast Shafts in the right length with 2 conversion joints would be $500 CAD plus shipping and still only 2.5" in diameter. If I can get away without a custom price, would be great.

 

Another option. A year ago, I had a shaft, cut, balanced, and straightened for $200. That was in NJ. Should be a shop, up your way, that would do the same. Course wasnt done Wednesday, it was the following Wednesday.

 

60” - 58.87” = about 1 1/8”

correct depth into trans is with car fully loaded on the suspension, push shaft/yoke into trans until it bottoms . Then pull out 3/4” to 1”, then measure on the horizontal of the shaft yokes c to c

 

It's actually 57.87", my driveshaft is actually about an 1/8" of inch short 5 feet, so 2" difference. I was surprised it was tighter with the suspension down. Going to do measuring tonight.

 

It's due to the arc of travel. The rear mounting point of the control arms at the rearend is furthest away from the transmission when the suspension is fully compressed, and moves closer when the suspension "hangs down" or is at maximum travel.

 

when it’s hanging down it’s like having shorter links ..the 4 link does that.

 

Measured definitely need 2 less inches with the yoke 3/4" out. Ordered it, should be 4.5" less than the factory 2 piece drive shaft and much stronger. I installed the TCI Fastgate, wide step drill to open up the hole for the cable. I lubed the cables and mechanism with dry graphite spray lube. I still need to hook the neutral safety and park switches, need to find where I hid the Bible, my 1970 Chassis service manual for the wiring diagram.

 

Just started digging into your thread. Good stuff olds 307 and 403.

Obviously a time and cash consuming endeavor. But I can't wait till the payoff.

May she run lights out when all is said and done !

 

Yah, cash is right, 4K for the EFI alone. I ordered another drive shaft for an Astro Van from the same years, just over an inch shorter. Which ever one fits better will go on, other will be returned. Hoping it is the Astro Van drive shaft, $75 cheaper. I got the top two bolts in the bellhousing adapter. The transmission dipstick is OK but I have a lot of wiring near it.

 

Modified the ECM box to plug in the trans harness. I also installed clamps to hold the trans relay and trans cooler lines against the inner plastic fender. I used the same screw to hold fuse holder for the trans wiring. Just need to hook up the key on power for the trans harness. The first driveshaft came, the longer of the two, the Blazer replacement. Actual shaft is just under 1.5" shorter. I will get the car back on the stands and put in the diff yoke to see if it is going to work before swapping the trans yoke.

 

Well, the driveshaft is very close but I think the shorter driveshaft will be better. The rear U joint has the right inside snap rings and fits the pinion yoke. I went to potentionally swap the front U joint. It is not a 3R. The rear looks like a conversion joint as well. It is smaller diameter and all outside snap rings. I found online it may be a 1330 U joint so I have a 1310 to 1350 and a 1330 to 1350 conversion U joint coming from Amazon. I don't mind have these on the shelf. The rest of the car should be good to go.

 

Other driveshaft arrived, about 1 3/4" shorter, perfect. It does not have a 3R conversion U joint or 1330 U joints. It has 1350 U joints both ends, according to my measurements. I thought, can I make it work? Yes, with no extra parts!. My front 32 yoke that came with the trans pis 1350, should be a straight swap. I have currently have a 3R to 1350 conversion U joint, half taken off my G body driveshaft, brand new. Let's see if it works tonight.

 

I got the yoke changed. Good news, they are 1350 U joints. The bad, holy crap where they in there. Not a chance my usual hammer and a vise method will work. Even removing the snap rings were a chore. I had to hammer one side to relieve tension. I used snap ring pliers, while I had a hold of it, finally had to jam a small flat screw driver to peel a couple out. I used a 5" C clamp to remove the one cup. I actually used a cut off wheel to get the other cup out, all the way out on the inside, couldn't separate it. I wasn't going to use that yoke on anything, so no loss. I used the regular outside snap rings that needle nose vise grips compress. I got the snap rings out on the other U joint and the one cup to move, started to bend the handle on my C clamp. Since I didn't want to spend $165 plus tax locally, I ordered a U/ Ball joint press from Amazon, for $58, should be here Monday. So close but yet another road block, shocking, I know, nope!

 

U/Ball joint press arrived. Man I still needed mild heat and the big swing bar to get the U joint out and the 1350/3R conversion U joint in. Both are a bit tight, see if I get any vibrations. Touched up the paint where I scratched it up, will install in the morning.

 

Got the drive shaft in, yoke about half way in the output shaft with the rear control on stands. Fully extended would pull it in another inch at least. I had to modify the the little driveshaft loop near the front U joint. Added carriage bolts and added spacers, should just be clear of the larger 1350 yoke. The battery was dead. Have the charger on, will need to hook up the laptop to enable the 4L80E. I put in about 10 liters to start of some THF and synthetic Dexron 3.

 

Well I have foward and reverse gears but my TCI shifter isn't setup right. No park, may have to move the cable foward, the sweep is a bit different for gears. Also the dust cover off the TH350 won't work unless I grind it, front hits the flexplate. For the price of a 4L80E replacement, $200 and up, I will give it a try. I will do the programming next weekend on the Terminator X Max.

 

So I got the linkage properly adjusted, now have park. I had to move the bolts foward on the bracket and adjust the cable stops. I also picked up a 3 foot by 3/4" ID reflective heat covering for the shifter cable. It is velcro closure and came with metal zip ties and gloves. Another pair for work, same material and rubber coated I use to deliver fuel. Almost the perfect length to completely protect the shift cable from the way too close exhaust. I took it for a drive after I thought I added the 4L80E. Apparently not, only second and reverse, limp mode. Good part, the converter flashes over 2000 rpm, around 2100 which is about perfect. Pretty sure the TH350 trans cover won't work, still contacts the flexplate despite much grinding, will order one off Ebay for a 4L80E. I think I may have the trans added in on the software, will see next test drive.

 

Well, it was an interesting test drive. The good, pretty sure the lifter tick was the stupid flexplate cover hitting, even with the TH350. First on the bad list, driveshaft hitting the loop. I added about 1" of clearance should be good now. Second, I thought the torque converter snout was hitting the crank, nope. I found the flexplate bolts not very tight, one was obviously loose. After stripping one tightening it, many hours later after dropping the starter and getting the M10x1.5 bolts out, I realized 3 things. The holes were too small and didn't line up with the larger metric bolts. Also the large 17mm heads barely cleared the edge of the neutral balance Speedmaster flexplate, even a socket was very tight. Also needed longer bolts to add washers above and below. I reamed out the holes with a step drill bit. I bought 30mm long bolts to replace the 20mm long bolts and tapped the torque converter mounting lugs. I added two washers to help the bolt head clear and added the two very thick washers inxluded with the adapter plus one thicker than normal washer between the torque converter and flexplate. I also drained out a liter plus of ATF, overfilled it. Also still in limp mode, tried adding it through the laptop, a PIA. Added it through the handheld, still in limp mode. There have been cases of bad wires from new. Also my key would not shut off the car last night, really worn out and had to unhook the battery to kill it.

 

If you're running an internally regulated alternator, try a diode (1-3a, stripe toward the alternator) on the excite wire.

 

Yes, a 105 amp CS130. I might still have a diode in the wiring for the old externally regulated alternator. This is new, ordered a new ignition swith, it is 54 years old and probably just toast.

 

Changed the ignition switch and realized it is the tumbler that will no longer return to the lock position, tumbler ery worn. I stripped the last screw on the horn bezel, so said screw it and ordered an 250 amp Amazon battery disconnect. Canadian Tire used offer these and they worked quite well. A key fob connects and disconnects the battery. I will eventually get a replacement but will mean a 3rd key, makes it driveable for now and get the trans tuned in.

 

Ordered a new lock cylinder, it was cheap, under $20. I unhooked the negative, it didn't turn off till I bumped the key foward, weird. Looks like I need to do both to drive it.

 

Well took it out for a drive, had a bad vibration. I am actually going to swap driveshafts, this one is actually about half way, which might be too much. Plus both joints ended up tighter than I like. The other driveshaft actually should be perfect and just needs a 1330 to 1350 conversion joint, for the front I have two. Also just going to use the two washers on the flexplate included with the adapter, in case that is the issue.

 

I added a starter heat reflective cover, very close to the header. I ran the new slightly shorter torque bolts through the die after trying them, didn't go in smoothly. I also tapped all 3 holes for the torque converter. I used only the two washers supplied behind the flexplate. I actually had to grind the 17mm socket for one flexplate bolt, right up against the edge. I also found out not all U joints are the same. I installed a 1330 to 1350 Spicer U joint. It was very stiff in the driveshaft. I also bought an Allstar Performance 1330 to 1350 U joint. It was slightly narrower on the 1330 portion and moved as it should, so I used it instead. I decided to use the other driveshaft which is actually just the right length, a good inch to spare with the suspension fully extended. Still in limp mode, power at the trans fuse and I flipped the main connector, others have had it upside down, can be installed either way. Need to test for voltage at the 4L80E and see if power is where it is supposed to be.

 

I checked for power at the big trans connector, only reference voltage at the L terminal. I checked the key on wire, 12 volts at it. Then I rechecked the main trans harness fuse. It had nothing, checked the wrong one before, side by side. I traced it to the battery, to the ground side! Put it on the positive side, I had power at the E terminal, found some other stuff, including a better Holley wiring diagram. I now have all gears, some tire spin off the line, stalls around 2100 rpm. It now cruises about 1850 rpm at 60 mph. My $30 plug in speedometer is about the same as my speedometer app. A Holley digital dash may be my next big purchase. Next will be my push button start.

 

Got my 4L80E cover, only the main piece, seller said both. Of course, I had to modify the cover, interfered with the starter. I am picking up thin aluminum to cover the rest of the front where the flexplate is. I used the cut pieces and JB Weld to cover the hole, will let it sit overnight.

 

I had to remove the passenger side structure, it was making contact as well as tap thr bolt holes. The thin aluminum is almost to thin, crinkles up, I may double it up. I measured, cut and installed with 3/8" stainless bolts, washers and lock nuts.

 

Well the my little homemade aluminum front cover was rubbing. So I the cut the front off the plastic cover. After mildly burning myself with hot plastic flying at me and even left a little edge with washers in between, it still rubbed! So off it came, will address it over the Winter. More concern were a couple of torque converter bolts were loose again. If they come loose again, a lot of hybrid orange locktite will go on. Tightened them, only more of a vibration sound than an actual vibration now. Probably something on the case or line fittings contacting the underneath of the car. I also found the fiberglass cover for the starter and main power wire slid down and the main power wire cover was slightly touching the header. I used stainless zip ties criss crossed on the header to hold up the cover. I found some highly rated US made battery cables on Amazon. A 5 foot for the positive and 3 foot for the negative in 1/0 gauge should replace the 54 year old pair. I bought a Dorman 1/2"-20 drain plug with a plastic washer. I also bought a pack of their aluminum washers and also a pack of their aluminum with rubber center gaskets for the 1/2"-20 drain plugs. I used one of all three gaskets and Teflon tape. Finally no more seepage on this Canton pan, on the drain at least. There is also a nice highly rated magnetic drain plug on Amazon I will pick up for a spare.

 

So many hours spent and not a lot accomplished. So I started the day by marrying Cutlassefi's tune to my 4L80E. Of course the Holley files are poorly labeled. I tried the default and another, one has shift tables, the other did not. Both did a weird in and out of gear. So that marriage ended in divorce. I then installed the 4/0 gauge, made in USA lifetime crimp Spartan 4 foot battery cables, a steal at $80 shipped. The negative was just long enough to attach to the back of the block. The positive was the same length as factory. We'll the lug was so big it grounded out and pretty sure it fried my battery disconnect. Ground down the lug, should be good. I also found my 3 year old valve cover grommets are falling apart.

 

Surprised the battery disconnect still works. Unfortunately when I the oil yet again, it didn't start! The fuel pump wasn't running found the battery ground was tight and came disconnected. Still no fuel pump, could jump it. Replaced the Mr.Gasket 5 pin relay. Still no, injectors aren't turning on, so it may be the Holley relay. I need to check for power, ordered two more just in case. I just want to drive my car!

 

Well, I have been driving the car daily. I played around with adjusting the primary throttle blade opening on the Speedmaster throttle body. Too much, hot idle climbs too high and too little and cold idle is like 500 rpm. Mark's tune is massively better than the awful stock tune but it still likes to usually stall once and flash lean for at least the first block or so of driving. Then it runs pretty nice. I do notice a vibration around town, thought it was timing related. Mark's tune pulls part throttle timing as it heats up, which is good. I do wish it had a couple more degrees full throttle, around 32 WOT. I put it in the screen mode that shows what gear I am in, getting into 4th gear at 30+ mph around town! So yeah, the motor is lugging for sure. I went with Holley's stock 4L80E shift graphs. I could tweak for a later 4th gear shift. But I think putting in the 3.08 and modified ferd 8.8 Yukon posi is the way to go. Add more launch fun and just bring the rpm high enough to stay in 3rd around town. Currently around 1700 rpm at 60 mph. It will still be just under 2000 rpm at 60 mph. I bought a complete master overhaul for the 8.5" Type differential with new axles seals and new Chinese bearings just for the new retainers. JD Race tries the factory axle bearings, no replacements are as good. I bought another factory chassis service manual, mine went missing. Taking it tomorrow to my Daughter's garage, 2.5 car vs my 1 car garage. I also have my press there, will need it. Visit this week and start the overhaul next weekend. I also ordered a W27 reproduction aluminum differential cover. They are on back order for the Olds 12 bolt cover at most places. Plenty of 10 bolt a d 12 bolt type C available. The only other cover available is the very expensive US made LPW girdle cover, talking over $400 Canadian shipped, if there are any in stock. Parrs Place has them, ordered one $175 shipped. Supposedly a US made vs Taiwan made reproduction. I want bling with this $1500 gear and posi upgrade. It does add a half quart of gear oil and looks cool. I have seen the raised rear lettering portion polished and looks fantastic, I will do the same. I will also paint the center section aluminum and the axles black like a real aluminum center section W27 rear. I got 3 liters 85W140 free from work due to a damaged jug. Our gear oil is supposed to be limited slip friendly but I have CRC additive, I will add to make sure there is no chatter. We know a 2.78 to 3.08 open to posi upgrade will actually add performance and with a .75 OD and lock up torque converter, very leisurely at any highway speed. The only option I plan on adding is the 5" Holley Sniper/Terminator display mounted over my factory speedometer. The 3.5" actually has mph speedometer built in but is tiny, as is the tach feature. The 5" has much better sized and multiple options with an actual GPS antenna. Otherwise no more money spent on this pit. I am wondering if my cheap $20 vs $200 transducer for the fuel pressure, oil and fuel both read around 10 pounds lowers than mechanical gauges. I wonder if it is part if my cold driving issues, along with too big of fuel injectors. I went to big talking 48 pounds with dreams for the future. Maybe the big injectors are less precise and low speeds? I also either have a noisy serpentine belt setup, found my pulley bolts loose and a replaced a failing idler pulley. I am pulling valve covers to make sure there are no loose rockers. I have the oil a bunch of times and filters in between oil changes, looked better the last couple of times. There was some minor glitter in this last Wix filter, may just be left over. I have used VR1 10W30 with a liter or two of the VR1 20W50. Oil pressure is 80 cold and at lowest 35 on the mechanical gauge at idle. I switched to A Premium Chinese made oil filters. I know, saw no difference in oil pressure, maybe slightly more if anything. They are well made and half the price of the Wix. I tired of paying $20 a filter up here. I couldn't get the B39 Baldwin through work, warehouse no longer stocks that number. The B9 we have on the shelf, won't filt with my headers, a bummer. We have the B34 and B2 on shelf, only the B34 will fit on my Dakota as well. Thought we'll they probably have the B39 available, nope.

 

There is no excessive play on the rocker arms. Tiny bit on 3 sets. The flipped them around and they were better. It seems to work on non adjustable factory rocker arms. I also found this, I can't believe it did run worse than it did. Fixing it didn't change how I runs on cold start.

Broke off right at the cap, weird. All the rest of the wires look fine. Either ready to drop it off at my Daughter's place.

 

Well, I finally took a 70 for a decent drive. It got somewhere around 20 mpg according to the Holley monitor on the highway. It has about 55 psi at around 1500 rpm at 60 mph and 60 psi at about another rpm more. Just under 40 psi at about 750 at a hot idle with mostly 10W30 with 20W50, all VRI. Stayed a rock solid 180, which it usually does with the 160 thermostat and where I set the Davies Craig fan controller. Why I took the half hour drive? Went to my Daughter's, her garage is much wider. So I can do the used 3.08 gears and Yukon posi with new bearings and seals with a W27 cover for bling. I am using conventional 85W140 with extra posi additive. Also painting it to look like W27 differential. Then I will act all ignorant if anyone asks😇.

 

The LPW Olds girdle diff is about $290.00 Canadian shipped to your door. just got one for a rear I’m doing. It’s way better than the W27 diff cover as far as being a functional piece that adds rigidity to the rear. the W27 piece is glitter fluff

the Wix 51258 is $4.82 Canadian on Rock Auto. I get them by the case. Not sure if you can still do that , but they are still $4.82 C

the NAPA Gold is the same internally and is made by Wix. I think it’s #1258. I get them at jobber for under $10.00
Don’t cheap out on the filter

Don’t add the posi additive unless you get chatter.

 

Yeah, forgot about Rock Auto, will take a look and maybe buy a case. The Napa Gold is now $17.99 plus the two taxes! I will cut open this Chinese filter, if the quality is a good as the ones cut open on YouTube, they are quality filters. That LPW cover is nice, that is a much better price than Jegs but I won't be pushing anywhere near the limit of the Olds 8.5. Even if I get the Edelbrock heads or even the milled Procomp heads and my 218/218 roller cam installed, about 10 degrees intake and about 15 degrees less than the two 440 HP and 480 Ft/Lbs of torque builds. So what maybe 400+HP and 450+FT/Lbs of torque? Here is how the W27 came and me polishing the face and clear coat in the final Pic. I also cleaned up some rough casting on the inside bottom. I want some fancy on this $1500 rear overhaul.

 

Looks like $100 for 10 of 51258 from Rock Auto with shipping. They are not $4.87 anymore, add $2 to each filter.

 

Well, after this 8.5" Type O fighting me every way it could, it seems to be a success. I tightened the cover last night. Seemed to stop the leak. I tightened the cover again, just above freezing in the garage. I went as tight as a dare with the long 3/8" ratchet. Checked the fluid level, just below the filler hole, perfect. Also no leaks from the new rear trans seal, good. I took it out for a test drive. More responsive at part throttle and also at full throttle. It still went into 4th early. So I added 15% to 3 to 4th gear shift. I worked perfectly, stayed in 3rd at my town cruising speed. Then I went to start it later, it wouldn't start. Some how it completely lost the tune, WTF? Had to reload it, even then it didn't load exactly as I wanted. It seemed to be the base tune but somehow not, weird. Will see how it drives tomorrow morning.

 

you set up the gears with the rear in the car?