LOL on the long screws! I wasn't planning to use any but the weight of the cables kept pulling the plugs up. Now that the sealer has cured I might remove them or just dremel them off a little. Good idea on the hose protection for the + cable Joe. I will once again 'copy' you!
I made a trip over to Florence Al and got a very nice complete jack and very nice lower qtr rear die cast. Also many misc items that are hard to find. Maybe I can start making real progress now.

 

I bought a set of 5 SS1 wheels, 4 with tires. I assumed them to be 66-67. Can someone help identify them? They are 14x6. Seems I read some where that the 810 wheel is disc brake so I'm confused (not hard to do!). Thanks for any help.
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I'm no expert, but I believe the one wheel that you have pictured is a 1969 SS1 for disk brake applications (code LY). The M4 is the plant code, the 9 beneath that is for the year (1969) and the 5 12 is the month (May) and day (12) it was built. Here's a good thread on CO where this particular wheel was discussed in more detail:
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...rakes-car.html

 

THANKS MUCH, '442_1972'-I was hoping that would be the answer. I bought these sight unseen and did not even think about the brake problem. I currently run 15x7 SSIII,s and will use them for street and the SSI's with red-lines for showtime. Now when I get ready to install disk brakes I should be ok. I enjoyed the link and learned a lot from it too.

 

Am now struggeling with the lower rad hose. Trying to replace a universal flex hose with a Fusick repo. I know my rad is not orig but seems to be correct. Top hose fits fine. Bottom hose appears too long and folds together at both curves (no internal spring). Also too big for lower rad outlet (doesn't Olds use an adapter at this point?). Anyone with any hints or brand names or part nos?
Thanks

 

Well you may need to trim the length some top and bottom...I am thinking if its shorter it may not kink so easily and I would look for a spring for inside the hose. Make sure you angle the hose correctly. As for diameter we went over this before.... Tweed said there is a rubber sleeve to make up the difference and I had to have a different size fitting installed on mine..... I swear they sold me a Chevy radiator and made the application fit my 442! Of course I am the only one who ever had this problem....Ahem...

 

Try a 72 Cutlass 350 lower radiator hose, cut ends if needed to fit.

 

That's kind of what I thought too but didn't want to mess up without asking first. I took the spring out of the flex hose but it was too big and I could only get it about half thru. I cut it in two pieces and managed to get them stuffed in from each end but it is stiff as a board, no flex at all so don't think that will work. I checked a Goodyear dealer and the one they had was a little shorter but they couldn't help with the sleeve or spring. We looked thru book and found one that is very close in shape, a tad shorter, and is 1 1/2 inch on rad end but only 1 7/8 at water pump and no spring-he said no way to tell which ones come with spring. I'm going to try it before I cut the Fusick hose off-if I can get the water pump end to stretch (doubtful). Anyhow, thanks for the help. By the by, I redid the + cable and put it in an old piece of water hose where it goes over alxe and I feel a lot better about it..thanks again for that idea!

 

Hey thanks 'Run'. I'll give that a try if the above doesn't work. Oh yeah, I happened to be looking thru a back issue of Muscle Car Review and lo and behold there was Run to Rund. Was that you? Looked tough!

 

Update on reassembly-going kind of slow, doing the things that take time but don't seem to make much progress such as steering col rebuild, under dash work, etc. QUESTION: Defroster outlet install, Sec 1-1, page 1.04 of assembly manual shows a RELAY ground wire attached to the upper right bracket. Anybody know what relay this is? I don't find anything like that in my dash wiring (I attached the one to the brake brace). I am non a/c if that makes a difference. I will get some pics soon..got the rear view finished-lights, bumper, etc. Thanks for any help on the missing ground wire

 

Yes, that article is about my car. My Millenium reproduction assembly manual doesn't have section 1.1. I have one from another vendor, but not accessible right now. You can email it to me and I can try to figure out what that ground is. Donnellyj@msn.com

 

I have about decided that this ground might be for some optional accessory like power antenna, convert top, or other that might have a relay located in this area. Does this make sense?

Thanks

 

Took care of several small projects this weekend. Removed leaking p/s pump to replace shaft seal and found the resevoir o-ring leaking instead. Naturally the shaft seal is readily available but the seal kit has to be ordered so waiting for it. Got the horns mounted in w30 location. Hung and clipped the headliner in position. I will let it 'iron out' for a couple of days then glue it. Now working on sail panel area trying to find something suitable to replace the insulation board behing the panel. Getting the dash assembley ready to install soon. I had to redo the wiring for the hei. After I get p/s fixed maybe I can move it outside and get some new pics for my album.
Oh, I have a question about the roof rail seal. I have the rubber body-to-rail strip seals from OPG instead of the factory type foam...any opinions as to if these will work ok? In the A-pillar area does this seal go between the stainless trim and body or between the trim and the roof rail and use some kind of caulk sealer for the body to trim?
Thanks, Mike

 

A couple of quick shots...note hanging headliner, ready to glue
Also got the dash/instrument cluster installed and boy do I have issues to work out. No instrument lights, tach barely moves, left ts ind lite blinks for BOTH sides and on and on. Sounds like bad grounds and/or wire connector not plugged in properly.

 

Great job Mike -- Its gonna be a real sweet ride!!
T.

 

Saturday jobs...I still haven't gotten brave enough to glue the headliner yet....plenty of other things to work on but maybe later this week...
I made the sail panel insulaters out of thin hobby foam sandwiched between thin cardboard. I belive they will work fine. I got my door glass bedded last week and installed them and replaced vent glass weatherstrip. Pics...the old stuff I removed and shots of them installed. Note the squared off top of the new w/s versus the more pointed vent glass. Anyone else have this issue? I'm using Metro w/s that I got of Ebay. This is my first time doing weatherstriping so I have no experience to compare to. The trunk and door seals seem to be right on. I did not like the qtr window vertical seals (they were bigger and didn't look right to me so I used Year1 seals that I had already purchased). I won't do the roof rails until I finish the headliner. I used PUI fuzzies from Fusick and they worked fine except for having to redrill most of the screw holes. The chrome beads are very sharp on the ends tho.

 

Sunday...decided to bite the bullet and install the front fender liners (anything to put off the headliner). I had been dreading this job but it went fairly well. I had to loosen the lower fenders and messed up the gaps and chipped a door edge first time I opened it...have to get painter to come by and realign them and touch up all the chips after I am finished. I installed new A frame seals and bolted on all accessories. I need 2 wire harness hold downs..the ones I got are late model and won't work. So, on to the electrical goblins and maybe headliner??

 

I'm getting my ducks in a row for windshield/rear glass install. I'll be using the originals tho the front windshield is not perfect...has some edge chips. My thinking is to temporarily install it using butyl tape so I can do short test drives and then have a new one professionally installed when budget permits. I know urethane is much stronger but messy and the tape looks easier for dyi. What thickness/width should I use? ALL advice and opinions are GREATLY appreciated! THNX MUCH!
Mike

 

My Sunday project was to restore sun visors (anything to put off the headliner). I got them off Ebay and of course forgot to take a before pic. They were a light yellowish green but in excellant condition, even with deluxe vanity mirror. My headliner kit came with extra material to recover visors but I decided paint is much cheaper than labor. They turned out nice.

 

what did you paint em with? Looks good! I wanna do mine??

 

Thanks. I used SEM brand Landau black from Year1 and SEM cleaner and after drying good used the SEM paint prep. The biggest problem was getting paint down into the folds and crevises around the pins and the chrome trim. I still had to use a black Sharpie to touch up. I used this same stuff on the dash pad and other interior trim to change from blue to black.

 

Thanks for the tip!

 

Some updates. Front bumper (needs final alignment), headlight bezels are being restored, ram air hoses to be installed. Not too long before I can ATTEMPT a short drive!

 

Well, the experiment with headliner install is complete and I failed! It was going pretty good til I got to the rear window area and I don't know what happened..I pulled and stretched but still couldn't get wrinkles out. Maybe we can call this a new fad-ripple effect headliner (ha) or I can just not look in rear view mirror while driving. I'm going to leave it for awhile and see if it gets any better..more important fish to fry. Can always redo it in the future.

 

Another bump in the road..the repo headliner windlace I got from Yr 1 was way smaller in diameter than the original and even tho it installed ok it doesn't fit correctly, especially in the sail panel area. Any one else run into this? I will have same problem with door jamb windlace. Thanks...

 

I'd be taking it to an auto upholstry guy for advice? or fix? Some things are just better left to the "Professional"!! I have a interior restoration shop that i take all that work to.
He can do a perfect job and in about 10% of the time that it tales me to do a mediocre job!!

 

Mike, I give you credit for trying.... I would not try it and or a conv top install. Bolts and nuts and wrenches are my thing!!

 

Joe -- does that include trans/clutch work too?? LOL!!

 

Yep, some things should be left to the pros. This is one I will add to the growing list of redos. Right now I just want her on the road!

 

Hey smartass I knew that was coming!!

Sorry Mike, I am still having trans/clutch problems and we are trying to figure out if its me or the mechanicals.

 

Took er out for shakedown run Sat! Went pretty good AFTER I figured out I had #3 & #5 crossed! Cranks and idles a lot better now (ha)! Short drive went ok but the suspension is mush. Guess I need to go ahead and dive into that before I do any real road trips.

 

Your car is comming togeather. Looks great. What size tire and wheels.

 

Thanks Seafive. Still got a million little things to take care of. The wheels are original 14" with 215x75 radials. The tires came with the wheels and will be replaced with Coker red lines. I also have a set of 15x7 SSIIIs with Firestone Firehawk 235X70 that I will put on for street use. They fill out the wheel wells nicely and look so much more muscular (my son loves them over the "little bitty" ones (ha).

 

Thanks for the info. I am upgrading to front disc brakes so I am thinking 15x7 or maybe 15x 8 with 60s

 

The 60's on 8" will really look wicked. I plan to upgrade to disc sometime. I got lucky on the 14" SSI wheels..2 of them are for discs. What route are you going on the conversion-stock or after market? It gets confusing trying to figure out the best way.

 

I bought a complete (single piston) kit from summit.At my door in less than 48hrs. I couldn't belive it. Everything looks good but I suppose I won't know for sure until I begin the chassis build hopefuly around the first of the year. i'm currently waiting for the sandblaster to have an opening to blast my frame

 

I've been following your build too so I'll be watching to see how the conversion goes. Good luck!

I live reasonably close to Summit here in Ga so I can go pick up kit!

 

Beautiful!!!!!

 

Thanks Bill. Love your 65 too!

 

I think I figured out what I did wrong with headliner. The instructions I followed said to trim back the rod listing on each side to allow movement of material. I now think I should have ALSO cut some away in middle of listing to keep from trapping the material when the rod is in snapped into the roof clip. This would have allowed more movement from side to side to help remove wrinkles! Live and learn!