Very beautiful, Rob!!!!!

 

looks great. A job well done is worth the effort. Lots of work going on there. And moving along at a good clip.

 

A lot of work and a lot of patience. Good job !!!!

 

Thanks for the compliments! It is starting to get more exciting now as paint is applied and parts start going on, emptying my house of parts!

Wednesday I played hooky again to enjoy the good weather.
I had planned to paint the frame, but I was in pretty bad pain from the past 2 days of odd positions while painting. Therefore a change in plans was made that morning while under the influence of RX pain meds.
By noon, I felt good enough to continue work, besides it was only 82* out!

First on the new agenda was clean the outside of the carb. While this would have been a good time for a rebuild, I decided against it because the car ran so good and besides, this is a service carb. When a rebuild is needed, I have some correct numbered cores to build up into one good correct one.
The carb was placed on a wood block on a pile of news paper on top of a 10 gallon bucket to make for a comfy work stand. The worst of the grunge was removed with paint thinner, applied from a cup with a variety of brushes and allowed to run off onto the papers below.
After it looked good, I recleaned it with half a can of carb cleaner in a similar procedure. That stuff dissolved all the hard crap the thinner did not affect.
Here is after and before:

The weather was so nice and the neighborhood was quiet so I took my time. However I was shocked when I realized I spent 2.5 hours on it!

So time to come in and start some reassembly!
Vacuum fittings and hoses on top the engine, A/C vacuum tank, tranny shift rod, oil cap, rotor, and other little stuff.

The brake booster was installed carefully. But before then, I made sure the brake line clamp was prepared first, as there is no room to do so once the booster is in place…


First I put a small bead of strip caulk sealer around the white plastic boot.

I put a flashlight inside the car so I could see the brake pedal through the hole so I could mate the push rod clevis onto it – success!
I got the nuts on the outside and the connecting pin and clips inside the car. Easy!

Next the wiper motor. The assy manual says to seal around the nose, so more strip caulk…


Motor was tightened down and the wiring connectors were disassembled, cleaned, greased, and reassembled.
Washer hose retainer on the hood was replaced as it was torn. Soapy water made getting the hoses through easy.

Carb, gasket, and fuel pipe were installed finger tight (in case it had to be moved for any reason).
So after five hours, the engine bay is starting to look more like an engine bay!

 

What are all those things that look like horn relays on your frewall? I only have 1 behind the distributor.

 

You need lots of horns in dallas!

The silver cans are relays. The one by the booster is for A/C blower high speed, the one over the heater core is for the heated seats. The factory put a relay in that place for rear defogger, so it looks period correct.

 

Heated seats in Texas? I dont even have them here in Minnesota. Looks very nice, Rob!

 

I know, everyone tells me that...
However, even in the winter, driving topless is fun. Especially for Christmas light parades and such. It was a "might as well" from when the interior was redone... It keeps the lady friend comfy and therefore quiet, so it was worth the cost...


So last night, I could not get to sleep (too many days off I guess). So what would anyone have done? Go out to the garage and wrench, what else!
I recreated the steering linkage, based upon the old grungy set. I measured the connected tie rod end lengths for both sides and duplicated them for each. It was a little confusing of what side went up and in, but I finally got it. I did have to turn some of the bolts around on one adjuster because I wanted the nuts in the rear. (Hmmm - something did not sound right about that statement... )

So here is the old vs the new. The new set cost over 400 bucks + shipping but is very solid, well made, and fit together perfectly. I painted them with POR15 to keep the rust away.

Now which is which????
Oh - just touch each and see which changes the color of my skin!

 

So when do you think it will be ready to drive again? Btw... When it's cold I keep my hands in my pockets so they are nice and warm just in case the wife doesn't want to sit on a cold seat. I'm always thinking...

 

 

Yes they are taper fit

 

Yes, a pickle fork will work on these while in the car. BFH when out of the car.
It looks a lot cleaner in the picture. I tossed it out of the garage today and blackened both hands just doing that. Brease AND red sand.
Maybe I will clean it up and put it over my shoulder as a new space weapon. I will wrap my motorcycle half helmet in tin foil and scare off the kids come Halloween.

 

 

Pickle fork will tear up the rubber boot. There are ball joint separators that put pressure on the stud while you tap on the area where the taper seats but you don't have to really hit the part very hard.

 

The ball joints in my Ford never responded to the pickle fork. It was a new one I rented from Oreillys. The top was well mushroomed when I returned it, but still did not pop the joints. Only the BFH worked. No love pats either; just a few kicks in the @ss.

 

Years ago, when I first became a mechanic, I borrowed a pickle fork, ONCE. I saw it wreck the boot and my boss showed me the "Smack it with a hammer" trick. I have never used a pickle fork since then. BUT... there does seem to be a trick to it because I have had other people smack steering knuckles for a while and not break them loose and then I go and pop it loose with the first whack. I don't know... but I'm glad I never wasted money on one. I do have quite a few useless tools thatI wasted money on that don't work as promised though.

 

yea , but if you cant hit the appropriate spot , because everything else is in the way you have no choice but use a pickle fork..... on my thread im trying to fix the upper control arm bushing , the only way I can strike the upper a frame ball joint bolt itself is to remove the lower a frame to which we all know what that cosists of.... removing the spring , the shock ....etc..... as far as the boot ? who cares , ill take the one from the new tie rod I have laying around , unless the ball joint is worn , then ill just replace that too.

 

Great thread Rob, Seems like only yesterday, I was reading about you picking her up in S.C.

 

Thanks...
I have had her over 4 years now - time sure flies!
She might be getting a larger companion soon...

 

Great thread! Glad I came across it. Keep up the awesome work!

 

Thanks - you tuned in just in time for the fun part!


So Saturday was preparation day for paint. I was able to get about 4 hours in, doing a final cleaning of the frame with Eastwood’s PRE cleaner. Afterwards I applyed POR15 metal-ready, a metal etchant that gives smooth metal a chalkboard-like finish. Note the white haze:


Sunday morning I covered the engine and popped open the paint.
POR15 rust preventative paint was brushed on, starting at the center crossmember, moving to the left side rear, then the front. I then did the same on the right side.

I took my time and enjoy some great forgotten music by German singer Sandra (Ann Lauer).
One of my favs: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wBER7nkQYrE

After 3 hours, coat one was done (a full four ounce can was finished).
This is the best covering brush paint I have ever used on smooth steel. The etching made the difference.

I let it dry another hour while I had lunch. POR15 Chassiscoat black was applied.4 hours later when it was just a tad tacky. Same procedure, about 6 oz of paint was used.
After another 3 hours, that was done.
I spent even another 2 hours touching up here and there and giving the lowest cernter section another coat.

The next day I uncovered it all and cleaned up.
Nice…





Now to wait for a full cure and major reassembly can commence!

 

Looking good Rob...I hope to run into you at a car show soon! I wanna see Lady in person! Git-r-done!

 

Very nice detail work Rob. Looks so strange not to see the normal clutter of parts that should be there. So that's what the frame looks like when it's all cleaned up. What are you going to do the first time it gets dirty????

When you come up to Canada, maybe I'll save the frame and firewall detailing to you.

 

Nice work Rob,it looks like you powder coated it!

 

Looks very nice Rob. I'm concidering the using the same product on my frame. The othe option would be to prime and paint. Still undecided.

 

Thanks for the complements! I have to admit it looks pretty nice myself! When it gets dirty, a damp cloth should easily clean it off!

Hope you can make it to Fort Worth to the NTOC Zone meet, show and drags on Octover 7. If Lady is backk together and weather permits, i will be there!

A few weeks ago I got a custom built high-torque starter from Mark (stellar) on this site. Got a great deal and it looks nice! THANKS!!

It is for a Poncho, but will bolt up to my Olds…
Also the restored cable tube and bracket, repro heat shield, and repro battery cables from American Autowire.

The Positive battery cable was fed through the tube and the tube slid towards the terminal. I put them in a bag to prevent damage and fed them up through the frame. The starter was placed on the floor jack and another bag was put between the starter and oil pan to prevent damage. The jack provided some help as I tilted it nose up and pushed it up and into position. It rested comfortably between the oil pan and exhaust pipe while I connected the solenoid and ignition wires.
These are supposed to be pointing downwards. In the pictures they are up, which is WRONG, as the terminal can short on the screw above it!! I ended up repositioning both wires but took no new pics. Shame on me.


I used the jack to help ease the 20lb beast up into position and hold it as I installed the two long bolts. The one by the exhaust pipe must go in BEFORE getting it in position.
As I tightened the bolts by hand and they snugged, I lifted the jack slightly so I could tighten them more.

I repeated this until they were home. I torqUed to 30lbs.
Next I attempted to install the heat shield. I found the holes were ¼” off and I had to drill and dremmel the upper hole larger. Curse these stupid repros….


So now it is on. The solenoid and ignition wire were wrapped in convoluted tubing and routed out between the starter motor and solenoid. Be careful – it is easy to get a short In here due to close quarters!


Also I installed the brake line clips and clamps to the frame.
A rewarding 2 hours, even redoing things and forcing parts to fit...
What is REAL NICE is doing this type of work without getting my hands dirty! Also, the starter is easier to R&R when the suspension and fenderwell is gone!

 

A few days back, my rebuilt power steering pump and gearbox came back from Chip at Power Steering Services.

The dent on the pump should not be too visible – he did not have a replacement that was much better…
Looks like he does great work. It is expensive, but should be worth it. Since these were my old parts, they SHOULD fit!
And the gearbox did – bolted right in!

I held the box up there while laying on my back and the lady friend inserted the bolts. First bit of help she has ever gave me…..
Note the battery cable tube in the distance...


Lastly, I got my latest Rockauto shipment and got a new A/C blower resistor connector to replace my melted one with. Plastic was almost exact. It was not a true “pigtail” so I curled the wires to make it so….

I was able to clean and grease 3 of the original terminals. The worst one had to be cut off and replaced with a new one. I did not use the wires in the new connector. So now that is done! Another hour came and went...

 

Awesome work rob, i envy your diligance with electrics. Usually i just get pissed off and cut/solder the new wires in :P

I can attest that we canadian engineers were not trained to do wiring.. lol

Keep up the awesome work!

Cheers,

Tony

 

Nice work Rob!

I'll be home this weekend and I'll send you my address so you can stop by and repeat this process on my car. Sound like a plan? lol

 

Is that normal wear and tear for the resistor to transfer that much heat to the connector? Or was there a bad connection that was causing arcing?

 

Thanks... Cutting and splicing is what that connector is designed for. However, i wanted to keep it all factory new looking. Also, only one of the terminals needed replacement. The other 3 were wirewheeled, greased, and reinstalled!

Might need to think this over a bit.... I already have plans to repeat it on a wagon.

Certainly not normal. Connection was getting corroded and loose and arcing occured. I am surprised the blower still worked.

On a related note, my coworker's beemer burned up last week after a bad connection in his AC blower circuit. He knew there was a problem but he ignored it. NEVER ignore an electrical issue like this. If it cuts off or runs slow, shut it down untill it is fixed right. Glad I found my problem!

 

Today another welcomed COLD front came and made 2 hours in the garage a fun experience. 75 feels great!
Hmmmm…. Puzzle time.

First the power steering pump was attached to the front bracket, then the bottom bracket to the engine, then the pump assy to the bottom bracket. Then the lower ALT bracket...




Tips: Do not tighten anything until it is all assembled! After the bolts are finger tight, then torque. Also, keep track of your bolts. I misplaced one for the lower front pump and had to use an upper ALT bracket bolt.

After all that was in, the pulley hole was cleaned of paint and was tapped onto the shaft and tightened.
So how do you get 60ftlbs on the rotating pulley nut? I set up a socket (wrapped in paper towel) onto the upper pump bolt and set the ratchet a the bottom of the radiator support. Worked great!


Next the rag joint went on.. Note the flat sides on each mate together. It went together with no issue.



Also, negative battery cable was installed. I carefully removed the paint under the terminal on the engine with a dremmel to ensure good connection. Factory strap was reused.
Alternator, PS hoses, QK label, front lower A/C compressor bracket, and water pump pulley were installed, too.
It is starting to look more like an engine!

Now i am just awaiting parts from John to finish up!

 

Rob, everything looks great. Well almost.... what's up with that crank pulley? You know how this goes.....while you are in there......
Brian

 

Hmmm... May as well pull that engine to detail that crank pulley... You're this far already...:-)

 

Good eye there Brian. I can't believe that Rob 'missed a spot'....that pulley should come off real easy. It's only held on by 4 bolts. Baazzinga! Sheldon scores a direct hit!

 

Four bolts?
What about the center bolt that the factory had tightened by the line gorilla?
THAT bolt is why I left it. I figured i would brush paint the pulley this weekend.

 

THAT big bolt retains the harmonic balancer to the crank and shouldn't pass through the pulley. The pulley should come off with just by removing the 4 smaller bolts and maybe with a little gentle persuasion with a SFH or rubber mallet.

 

wow , thats turning out great ... good job ! btw... did you get any tiny air bubbles in the POR15 when you brushed it on ? I always had to deal with that when I worked with POR15. how did you avoid that ?.... I tried pouring the paint through a screen from a coffee maker to get rid of bubbles , but didnt seem to work/ or I was in to big of a hurry

 

Exactly. You might find that the pulley might stick because it's been on there so long. It has a flange collar on the crank balancer where the pulley seats. It will pop right off, using Brians suggestin. Then you can also paint your crank balancer!!

 

It took me a minute to cycle through my acronym soup but I got it now..."SFH" Ha!

Rob, you're planning this on a wagon??? Man oh man.

It's looking great so far, as mentioned, you might as well touch up the pulley since you're in the neighborhood and it's easily accessible at this point.