Great work as always!

 

Great project and documentation. Thanks for taking the time.
I would be interested in the AMK parts list - maybe a good candidate for a sticky.

 

Component work (6 hours - 3 hours yesterday and today)

The power steering pump saga continues. Was a fight to pull the power steering pump pulley off, then the reservoir, after stripping was just too pitted to use. Now the woodruff key is missing, and am going to have to grind down one to make it fit. Thought I had lost the recently purchased and powder coated single groove pulley, but found it inside my glovebox - still can't figure out how it got there. Waiting on another reservoir purchased here on CO, and that should finally finish it.

Also cosmetically refinished the starter motor (Ford Semi Gloss Black), steering shaft saving the rubber boot (used Radiator paint), starter heat sheild (used Hi Temp Silver), control arm shafts (Soft Iron paint), back drive bracket (Eastwood Silver Cad) and muffler hangers. I'm going to use the hangers that came off the W-30 since the metal is pitted ( Duplicolor Cast Iron) but the rubber is really nice. The repos I bought from TPP look like butt and are very flimsy.

 

This is the fun stuff! (5 hours)

Had to repaint the front frame crossmember because some undercoating got on it when I was doing the underside of the floor pan. Carefully masked off everything at a natural break, sanded with 220 and resprayed with the Krylon Satin - much better.

Also today sanded the powdercoating out of the bushing and ball joint contact surfaces. The powdercoat is pretty thick and will cause installation problems.

Completed the steering shaft refinishing. Paints used were Eastwood Radiator Black on the main shaft, Dupliclor Cast Blast on the coupling flange, Kryoln Satin on the bell part, and Carbon Mist on the clamp. Bolt is the original finish after cleaning in Evaporust.

Also completed the wiper motor. The thing was working just fine but looked tired. Went through sending the one if the W-30 to Wiperman for 300.00, so I thought I'd try freshening it myself. Bought the excellent quality repo pump Assy. from TPP. Installed it after spending about 3 hours refinishrg the main case with the Dremel using a small wire brush and hand sanding with 320 grit. Cleaned the wires with carb cleaner, and tried saving the original decal. Hard to get a clean edge between the decal and the case so I'm still on the fence about keeping it. Below are before and after pics of the wiper motor as well as a couple of shaft pics.

 

Absolutely beautiful work. Love all the detail. I remember seeing that car for sale on Southern Motors site. I live about a hour away from their place. Keep up the great work!

 

Hi Joe, Awesome work as usual!!! The GTO people Ames have wiper motor decals that are very accurate. I see yours has a(189) July '70 date' They have 4 different dates available for each year. Unfortunately they don't have a July date. There is one for April & Oct. but the part# is the same as yours. The Ames catalog is incredible,they make just about everything for Pontiacs!!

 

Nice detail. For a good edge on the wiper motor decal, what if you put like 0.005" shim stock over the decal, right up to the edge, then you can sand/ polish right to the edge w/o disturbing the actual decal. Repeat for each of the 4 edges.

 

Hello Rob, thanks for decoding the wiper label. It looks like I put effort into trying to save the label for nothing! The wiper motor must have been replaced at one time since the car is a late May 71 production date. It sure looked like it had never been changed - still had the "gummy" mounts, original wiper hoses and pump. I have bought the Ames stickers before and have a couple of spares for the orange car.

 

Chris - great idea. If the thing was original (see previous post) I would try what you are suggesting. Thanks.

 

More immediate gratification (4 hours)

Finally completed the P/S pump resto. Replaced the pump itself with a Renan unit, and the reservoir with a pit free used part from Andy down in Marble Falls. Replaced the incorrect two groove pulley with a single groove unit from Oldspackrat. Pulley was powdercoated, brackets painted in SEM Landau Black and reservoir in Krylon Satin.

Also did some work on the trans. Refinished the cover and tail housing bolts in Eastwood's phosphate and added the correct color lockwashers. Painted the steel midplate exposed edge with Aluma Blast. Installed the shifter tabs and the back drive bracket. Note: The AMK bolt kit to mount the shifter tabs has bolts in it too long. Did the yellow paint torque dabs. Can't wait to hear that M22 whine when working through the gears!

 

Looking good Joel, Adam.

 

More parts completed - anything to avoid working on the wiring harnesses ( 5 hours)

Started by sanding down the crappy powder coating that has been applied the bell housing. Those clowns didn't even wipe off the housing before applying the powder since there was hair, sand and everything known to man in the surface. I then painted it with Eastwood's Aluma Blast. I think it came out looking pretty good compared to how it looked when I got it.

Next were the exhaust manifolds. These are original to the car and very pit free. They were blasted and wiped down with thinner, then given two coats of Eastwood's !s High Temp Manifold paint.

Last were the wiper arms and transmissions. The arms were gone over with the dark red scotchbrite, and the tranny had a lot of work done it whole trying to save the original black paint - that is some tough stuff they used at the factory.

 

Whoops - forgot the pics

 

Need to catch up on my logging (15 hours between Sat, Sun, and today)

Have completed many misc parts such as hood grille surround trims, Supreme fender moldings, clutch neutral safety switch & harness, backdrive linkage, etc.. Some with pics & comments below:

Side Marker Lights - these were interesting. The lenses were in pretty good shape - looks like they had been polished at one time, but for some reason the outside chromed edge had been painted over with dull aluminum paint (which did a great job in protecting the chrome!) I pried the lenses out, used thinner and steel wool to remove the paints. Buffed out the outer chrome on the wheel buffer, painted the backs with the high heat silver paint, and reglued in the lenses.

Headlight Doors - Cleaned with soapy water, and then simply went over with 0000 steel wool. It was much more work cleaning the backs having to get down in the cracks.

Headlamp Retaining Rings - First washed really well, then went with 00 steel wool and then again with 0000. Hardest part is the parting lines - there is a brown discoloration there that is difficult to get clean. Even more of a headache is the mounting tabs. I finally used a Dremel brass wire wheel on them to shine the tabs up.

Front Marker Lamp Assemblies - Despite a college try, the lenses will have to be replaced. On the lamps themselves, soaked them in Evaporust to get the sockets cleaned up. Wirewheeled the brass rear socket assemblies, carb cleaned the plastic wire protector tubes and wires. Disassembled the connectors and cleaned them with Brake Cleen, and Wirewheeled the contacts. Masked off and painted the lamp insides with Glossy White, then the outside with Eastwood's Cad paint.

Transmission - Went back to this to mount the shifter and linkages. Shifter rods Wirewheeled and painted in Clear Zinc, trunnions in Cast Blast and all new hardware used (pin clips, flat and wavy washers, jam nuts and bushings) Reverse rod does not fit at all. I like the way this is coming out.

Also, getting a special set of .060 pistons made for this car. Billet, full floating pins, Line2Line coated skirts with W-31 crowns and not destroked.

Last to do are front wheel brake assemblies and (sigh) wire harnesses.

 

Some work yesterday and today (7 total - 2 hours on Sunday, 5 hours today)

Yesterday I disassembled the front brake assemblies. Bagged all the hardware seperately for each side, then put the LH stuff in Chem Dip. Progressively cleaned the backing plates of loose dirt and corrosion, then filled my oil change tub with Evaporust and stuck them both in it. I also started looking at the engine bay harnesses. The light harness will come out nice, but I am going to remove the plastic '72 style tubing and replace with tape. The engine harness will need lots of work since it had been crudely converted over to HEI, and the harness going to the TCS switch is messed up. Lastly, the wires going down to the starter got very hot at one point and are brittle. I have a couple other harnesses I can either fix or use as donors to fix this one - will investigate further.

Today I got the backing plates out if the Evaporust and refinished them. I used a Duplicolor "Metallic" (just Metallic) , them dusted over that with Eastwood's Silver Cad paint. At least on mine, this was close to the original color as evidenced under the bolts and protected area behind the hub. Not perfect, but I didn't want to hassle with sending these off to plating.

Also I went through and cleaned refinished the LH brake hardware. I pulled it from the ChemDip, Wirewheeled what I could, and then either cleared or painted all the parts. The only new parts are the retaining pins, the hold down cups, the adjuster pivot, and the adjuster hole plug. I get tired of buying replacement hardware and it is either missing pieces or plain wrong/one size fits all garbage.

Also worked on the wheel cylinders. Miraculously, they are the original Delco Moraines and are in excellent shape. Disassembled them LH both trashing the boots and rubber plungers. Removed the bleeder screws without breaking (yay)
Wirewheeled the Hell out of the exterior on the LH one, and used emery cloth on the bore. No gouges and no appreciable wear, and since the pistons were moving well I think I can call it good. Lightly wire wheeled the pistons themselves, and used Brake Cleen and a small toothbrush to clean the spring thing that pushes out on both rubbers. Used Eastwood Zinc phosphate on the cylinder to backing plate bolts (the repos are not close to correct) I will pick up some wheel cylinder kits tomorrow and finish these up.

Lastly, cleaned and refinished the backsides of the stone sheild and headlamp surrounds. I am really not wanting to paint this car, but the backs of this stuff were a mish mash of colors. Finally decided to go with a red that looks unfinished - kind of like overspray does when it isn't buffed out. Also had to strip and shoot in Eastwood's Zinc Phophate the 8 j clips that attach the bezels to the surrounds. This is yet another unique clip that I didn't have any available of in my stash.

I will finish the harnesses this week even "if it hare lips the Governor"

 

so put off the wiring again. I waited all day to see the wiring. I am disappointed. good job on the brake stuff. it all looks great!

 

I just hate it when life gets in the way of working on my cars (6 1/2 hours - 2 1/2 Friday and 4 today)

Well, I finally got after the harnesses. Completed the engine harness Friday and am about 1/2 way through the light harness half. As per usual, began at one end and worked to the other doing the following:

1) General cleaning with detergent
2) Disassemble all connectors, clean plastic housings with purple power, use a stiff pipe cleaner to clean inside all housings - note - always write down what wire comes out of what slot!
3) Wirewheel/wire brush/emery board all metal connectors
4) Purple power/ scrub at the backs of the fuse block connectors, and shoot aerosol plastic-dip to simulate original rubber sealing material
5) Use carb cleaner and a black lint free cloth to clean all wire insulation.
6) Clean and reuse, or otherwise retape the harness bundles.

Lighting harness needed no repairs at all, but on the engine one I used another I had in inventory and replaced the starter wire "branch". As I said, am removing the plastic tubing on the light harness and going with tape only.

Tomorrow I'll finish the front half, redo the paint on my radiator, and get started on the driveshaft. Also, will need to bone up on my pit filling skills since the water pump and crank pulleys are pretty badly pitted - on this car they will be way noticeable.

Got my jackstaff and booster back from Gregoire - they both came out pretty nice. Also finished the OE wheel cylinders. That is A LOT if work compared to buying replacements.

 

Missing the reverse shift arm?

 

I have one, but it isn't right. Going to order a new one from ILT. I installed the backdrive rod and it fit perfectly.

 

Where did the time go today?? (7 hours - the longest continuous session in quite some time for me)

Today the rest of the engine harness was completed. No issues and it isn't difficult work, but it takes forever - today it was 3 1/2 hours worth. All in, I have almost 8 hours on both engine bay harnesses. Worth it though because it is one of the first things I pay attention to when looking at cars.

Also today repainted the radiator tanks with Eastwood's Radiator Black. Disassembled the driveshaft (U joints had already been replaced - yay) and found some strange markings on the tube that I will put in a separate post.

More work today filling in the pitting on the pullies. This is something I am no good at.

Also began reinstalling a few items back on the car like the wiper tranny and motor, cowl screen and molding, frame back drive bracket, and brake distribution block.

Taking tomorrow to see my hero Bruce Springsteen in concert. Then onto finishing the driveshaft, and removing front buckets to begin pulling the steering column and dash.

 

Back at it (5 hours)

Today was misc. day. Items tackled:

My 4 new drums came in from Rock Auto. The old ones were pretty crusty and the OE RF was not doing to clean up before being out of spec. Paid less than 100.00 for all of them and they are pretty nice quality. Began by wiping the cosmoline material off the braking surfaces - I learned from the great brake scare of '13. Painted the outsides with the Duplicolor Cast paint, the did the factory black out of the outer drum face (only with SS1, 2's and 3's) with Ford Semi Gloss Black. Pic is of the front ones - backs are the same. Note: I did not mask off the sides - I just shot the black straight at the surface which is how I believe the factory did it.

Front timing cover and balancer emerged from the Evaporust soak. There is the usual pitting behind the pump, but the sealing surfaces are good. Balancer will need a sealing surface sleeve since it has a pretty good groove in it.

Opened the new front and rear coil spring boxes. These look really good as is with the semi gloss paint Moog uses - so I'm going to leave as is rather than refinish in a bare steel finish.

Started on the driveshaft reconditioning. Going to go **** on this part because it is a lot of fun - after you get past the sanding part. Starting with the main tube - this paint takes so long to dry.....

Have some more misc parts to paint such as fender supports, alt. brackets, clutch and brake pedals, rad. fan etc.. but all that stuff should not take much more than 1 day. When these are done, I'm out of engine/front clip stuff to recondition. I should get my A frames back from Chris in the next few days after he pushed in the LBJ's and bushings.

 

all looking good joe I saw were u said something about your pulleys being pitted to get mine smooth I primed them and then put the in my brake lathe to sand them out if u don't have access to a lathe u can put them on a drill to turn them and sand them to a flush-smooth finish before paint.
yet another great looking car save, keep up the good work as allways

 

Longest session yet - turning a corner (8 hours total)

My goal today was to finish refurbing all parts left prior to beginning to reassemble the front section of the car. Can't remember everything I did, but for sure I refinished the fan blade, front lower fender braces (with OE whitewall tire material), alternator brackets, bumper jack mechanism (mounted on the replated jack staff), lug nut wrench, and a couple of other parts.

Also did the hot air exhaust manifold stove. This piece was amazingly pit free, so I really tried to duplicate the almost zinc/galvanized look of the OE part. Shot it first in extreme high heat silver, then "splattered' it with a chrome type paint. Think it is a pretty good facsimile of that hard to mimic finish.

Also, Chris dropped off my A frames after he pushed in the bushings and LBJ's. Reinstalling these next - will then get the car on the ground to remove front seats to remove dash, heater box, and cut out and install the MT transmission hump.

Finished detailling the driveshaft with paint stripe (single red) and weld and end yoke detailling.

Thanks Ray for the tip on smoothing the pulleys. Was able to save the KN, but the KJ is junk. 442Fred is fixing me up with a pit free part.

Lastly, began refurbing a Rally Pack I got a while back. Lens has to be replaced, lamp holders changed out, and the center trim button changed out for a good one I have.

 

WOW! you do amazing work. I still cant get over the quality you put out! the strip on the driveshaft. what does that represent and how do you identify what strip it should have? keep up the great work!!!

 

Looking good...

 

Thanks. The driveshaft stripe was used at the factory to determine which shaft to use with what wheelbase and drivetrain combination. The single red stripe shaft is for manual transmission Olds A body in 1971. You can find the chart for what your car needs in you PIM (Assembly Manual) If you cannot find it, let me know and I'll dig out my 72 PIM.

 

Eric, are you going to the Zone show? And, what is YOUR forecast? Everyone on the news has a different idea when the rain is going to fall.

 

Some mid-week work (2 1/2 hours)

Finished work on the Rally Pack. Looks great after changing out center button, lens, face cleaning and exterior refinishing - now I hope it works.

Going to have to get a new clutch pedal from ILT since my used one has been welded on and was bent on the rod attaching arm. I refinished the M/T brake pedal based on the measurements of exactly where the original "dip" line was on the shaft.

For fun, I tried simulating the plating on the original underhood lamp. I have another one, but this one had been blasted and was kind of rough. I disassembled it, cleaned the wire, connector and terminal. Then painted the housing with Eastwood's Clear Zinc, the sprayed the Duplicolor "Metallic" paint on it (it is just called Metallic). Reassembled it and I think it looks good enough to use as is.

Got started on the front suspension reassembly. Attached upper control arms making sure to reinstall the exact refinished control arm shims back in their original positions. Also installed the cross over brake pipe. I'd like to do some more, but need to start getting the blue car ready for the zone show - hope I won't need pontoons!

 

Looking good, Joe. Enjoy seeing the progress.

 

Very frustrating session (5 1/2 hours)

On the positive side, I replaced the side cover mounted TCS switch with a version that has the proper electrical connector, installed the proper reverse rod, and stenciled on the "WT" marking on the case. Trans is now finished and will be ready to install after filling with gear lube.

Aside from that, crap. Turns out the driveshaft I refinished is for another GM car. All the joints are the 1310/369 type which use the outside ring retainers. I installed this type on the front and bought the 372 conversion joint for the back one. The 372 is mispackaged, and upon further review discovered this shaft is approx. 1/2 inch longer (measured center to center of the joints) than the old one. I'm feeling pretty queasy about using this shaft.

Then spent about 3 hours jacking with installing the front suspension - and still did not get the coil springs installed. There has to be a better way of compressing the spring rather than using the HF compressor.

Lastly jacked with the crappy repo clutch pedal - see my other post if interested.

 

joe on my build sight post 136 I show how I installed my front spring without scratching any paint hope this helps. let me know I can mail the metal block to u if u would would like

 

Ray, thanks for the offer. I finally got it done!

 

Front suspension in... (13 hours total 3 hours each - Tuesday and Thursday AM, and Saturday 7 hours prox)

After a lot of teeth gnashing, the front coil springs were finally seated to my satisfaction Thursday AM. Spent the rest of the morning installing the steering arms and backing plates, wheel cylinders,sway bar (note: the AMK kit has the wrong length bolts in them as well) steering linkage, gearbox, etc. Reused those weird inner tie rods and the white cup thing which is a cool contrast against the rest of the components. Painted my Monroe gas shocks in a medium gray that closely matches a NOS spiral shock I have and installed them as well.

Yesterday installed the brake hoses and spindle brackets, short brake pipes, upper control arm shaft end nuts and phosphate washers, drum brake hardware and shoes, wheel hubs with new bearings/seals, and Z bar frame bracket. Added some ILT stickers, my usual paint dabs, greased all the zerks and put the wheels and drums on. Dropped it down and am ready to begin pulling some interior parts tomorrow.

Note - the brake hold down pins are a different length for the front drums vs. the rears. Ask me how this detail can cost you 2 hours of work time!

These pics are really washed out looking - looks much better in person. Will try to take a pic or two with the Ipad and post later.

 

Complete interior tear down (8 hours - 1 1/2 yesterday afternoon, 6 1/2 today)

I had already pulled the console before to do the M/T modification, but the rest of the interior was intact. Took a total of a little over 7 hours to pull everything out (except the headliner) and bag/tag it for rework or detailing. Boy did I luck out in the body condition - just check out those floors. No real surprises except for pulling out the mast antenna that was mounted under the dash, and the totally juryrigged way the afternarket receiver was mounted in the ashtray slot. Ruined a perfectly good bezel. Also it had an OE AM radio in it, but the top lid of the case was missing, and it looked like water had been it. Will keep the ***** and dial and faceplate assembly.

The heater core, though brass but not the original, had started to weep a little. If caused some minor surface rust in the housing - nothing that is not easily sanded out.

Biggest issue will be replacing the rear upper quarter trims. They are the cheap PUI style and are delaminating. Someone at one time pitched the door windlaces and installed some white border edging. Also, the sail panels had been very crudely recovered and the glue was beginning to fail. Lastly, the headliner will look pretty lousy compagred to the rest of the car. I'm going to check to see if someone offers a mobile upholstery shop service that could install a headliner here at my house.

I estimate about two weeks to completely clean and detail everything removed. I have some dash harness butchering to deal with, but not enough to consider changing out the assembly.

 

Back on the ground! I love it!

 

First I must say, your work is beautiful.
As for the wiper motor, it could be original. The wiper motor could have been made a long time before the car, and just sitting on the shelf until may of 71. My dads 1 owner 60 Plymouth May of 60 built, had a 1956 date coded generator on it from the factory

 

Finally have a few minutes (23 hours - 2 Tuesday, 1 Thursday, 5 Saturday, 6 Sunday, 9 Monday)

I'm in Atlanta on biz, and thought I would update as well. Trying to get this car finished for the summer so here's quick rundown of everything done:

Tuesday
1) Properly store all interior parts removed and determine scope of work for each
2) Determine any other parts to be purchased
3) Dropped off rear interior quarter trims, headrests, and sail panels at interior shop for repair.

Thursday
1) Cleaned all the under dash ductwork

Saturday
1) Chris came over and we cut out the hole for the 4 speed hump, and then installed the RIGHT hump.
2) Disassembled the dash, and removed the lock cylinder from my old column to install in my tilt unit.

Sunday
1) Began reconditioning parts by first simply cleaning everything that did not need further work (A pillar covers, arm rests, etc)
2) Cleaned all small components in bags like seat belt covers, column components,
3) Evaporusted dash light diffusers, stop light switch bracket, gas pedal rod, glove box plate, hinge guide arm and retaining ring
4) Removed rear view mirror glass to send off to be resilvered
5) Disassembled heater box, cleaned, wire wheeled, and painted all the components

Monday
1) Reassembled the heater box
2) Went through all cleaned or replaced all 48 bags of fasteners. Note - interior ones can mostly be cleaned to look new, and my earlier work to segment all my replacement fasteners makes this go really fast
3) Cleaned and painted the brake cage
4) Painted the repaired new clutch pedal
5) Cleaned and painted the emergency brake assembly

Main things left are seat belts, heater control, dash harness, speedo refurb, and bucket seat refurbing.

 

Not keeping up with logging - too much work (15 hours - 2 hours Sat, 3 hours Sunday, and longest session yet 10 hours today)

I have been after it with some urgency since I want to get this car done soon because I need to get to work on the Hurst. Patton has almost all the goodies I subbed out to him ready to go,,so I need to finish up ASAP.

Cleaned and detailed the replacement dash bezel and original ash tray and glovebox doors. I finally got a glovebox lock off and will replace the back because I got some nasty chemicals on it and the plastic did not like at all. I would up doing the paint pen thing on the raised edges - looks OK and at least it is consistent. The ashtray that came with the bezel is black instead of zinc like my 70 was. Painted it in phosphate and it looks pretty correct. No one will be smoking in this car.

Seat belts are done, and harnesses are as well. Had enough colored fuses to do this panel, and successfully fixed all the various wire "tap - ins" people have done through the years for afternarket radios. This is the third courtesy harness I have done where someone has cut the wire going to the ashtray light - interesting, yet maddening.

Placed another order with Rock for the tar sound deadener, boxed rear arms (only 113.00!) and seat/ trunk divider. I decided to install a rear sway bar and have one coming from Greg G. Also ordered from TPP the right sail panel courtesy lights, sun visor brackets, rear axle backing plates, dash bead, a couple of emblems and other engine compartment things I forgot to order.

Need to finish speedo tomorrow, and then drop the tank and pull the rear end out. Engine should be done by next week and will order exhaust from Waldrons by end of this week.

 

Back in the normal logging mode (3 1/2 hours)

Began by surveying rear unddercarridge to see if anybolts appear to be frozen. The short rear gas tank strap bolts are just spinning in the holes, otherwise all looks good.

Pulled and stripped the rear side marker light brackets since someone had just trunk spatter painted over them. No pitting - yay. Will replace the thread cutting nuts from my inventory.

Next, pulled the trunk light harness. Removed the U-Haul trailer towing tap a lights from the wires, luckily wires were unharmed. Cleaned overspray off the original tape, changed out a couple of cracked connector housings with good used ones on my junk harnesses.

Next assembled the brake cage with pedals. This is one of my favorite parts to do.

Also posted some pics of the trans hump instal.

 

I would like to put that s-wheel on my Cutlass. Can you tell me:


Do I need a wheel puller to take my stock wheel off (70 CS) ?
Was there any trick to making sure everything lined up ok/straight?
Horn works ok?
Thanks - JM