Back from the powder coater
Just an Olds Guy
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 24,528
From: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Nice and shiney. On your control arms you might have to sand down the holes where the bushings go. PC can build up a layer that will make pressing them in kind of hard. This looks like big $$$.
Registered Luser
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 3,785
From: LI,NY
Just an Olds Guy
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 24,528
From: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
ent72olds gave you the basic idea.
Sand blasting uses a dry media (can be silica sand, glass beads or walnut shells) that is forced at high speed through a high pressure nozzle. The impact of the media causes outer scaling or paint build up to be 'blasted' off. The cleaning it does is more thorough and even than sanding using abrasive discs or grinders.
Walnut shell media is not as abrasive as sand or glass beads. This type of parts cleaning allows the user to get into even tight areas without using harsh chemical peels. On large items like frames it's best left to the pros + you don't end up having to buy the equipment and clean up after yourself when done! "media" blasting will easily take off plastic fillers that were used to hide/cover flimsy or perforated metal. There is another media called 'soda blasting' that uses baking soda suspended in water as the peeling agent. I have never used it, but hear that it's safe to spray even on rubber or chrome trims without damaging it.
Powder coating is a finish that is applied to clean metal. The process uses 'dry' paint powder which is electrstatically charged and attracted to the metal. It allows the paint 'dust' to get into really tight areas that normally wouldn't be sprayed even with a paint gun. Everything then goes into an oven and is 'baked' till the dry paint melts (or fuses) to the metal. The resulting finish can be 'dull, semi gloss, or gloss' and in whatever color you specify. Durability of powder coated parts greatly outweighs the cost of doing it IMO, plus it's very low maintenance.
Sand blasting uses a dry media (can be silica sand, glass beads or walnut shells) that is forced at high speed through a high pressure nozzle. The impact of the media causes outer scaling or paint build up to be 'blasted' off. The cleaning it does is more thorough and even than sanding using abrasive discs or grinders.
Walnut shell media is not as abrasive as sand or glass beads. This type of parts cleaning allows the user to get into even tight areas without using harsh chemical peels. On large items like frames it's best left to the pros + you don't end up having to buy the equipment and clean up after yourself when done! "media" blasting will easily take off plastic fillers that were used to hide/cover flimsy or perforated metal. There is another media called 'soda blasting' that uses baking soda suspended in water as the peeling agent. I have never used it, but hear that it's safe to spray even on rubber or chrome trims without damaging it.
Powder coating is a finish that is applied to clean metal. The process uses 'dry' paint powder which is electrstatically charged and attracted to the metal. It allows the paint 'dust' to get into really tight areas that normally wouldn't be sprayed even with a paint gun. Everything then goes into an oven and is 'baked' till the dry paint melts (or fuses) to the metal. The resulting finish can be 'dull, semi gloss, or gloss' and in whatever color you specify. Durability of powder coated parts greatly outweighs the cost of doing it IMO, plus it's very low maintenance.
Registered User
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 11,798
From: Plano, TX
Looks very nice! What about the crossmember?
Along with sanding (dremeling) out the coating from balljoint area on the lower control arm, you would need to also remove the coating from the inside holes where all the control arm bushings get pressed in and also the inner holes of the pullies.
It is amazing how such a thin coating can keep parts from going together.
Along with sanding (dremeling) out the coating from balljoint area on the lower control arm, you would need to also remove the coating from the inside holes where all the control arm bushings get pressed in and also the inner holes of the pullies.
It is amazing how such a thin coating can keep parts from going together.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
