When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Hello, I am a new poster but, not new to the site. I have used this site several times recently and for years as a reference. Most recently used the abundant knowledge to replace the rear main on my 72' Olds Cutlass. It is a work in progress to say the least. I bought the car from a private owner back in 98' in the Metro Detroit area. I have worked for the Auto industry for 21 years. I unfortunately have moved or traveled for most of the 21 years but, we have settled down back in the Motor City. (hopefully for good).
I believe that I have the original engine and trans based on what I have found on the site. I still need to decrypt the Transmission based on the stamping on the housing but, I will research that later today.
Thank you, (other) Eric....It has been dragged from Michigan to Louisiana, back to Michigan, then to Alabama (Auburn & Birmingham) and back to Michigan all on flat beds. Thankfully my employer paid to move it each time. I had the rear main and a rear brake line go out 5+ years ago and I am now getting time to work on it. The plan is to get it back on the road and determine next steps.
Repair rear main - Check
Replace trans. fluid and filter - Check
Drive down my street on Dec 23rd (50 degrees outside in Michigan) without exhaust to show/wake up my neighbors that it is alive.
Put back in garage with trans leak - Uncheck....dammit. Post coming shortly.
Welcome back again to Michigan. Nice Cutlass! I chased down a few transmission leaks on my Olds's. I had also replaced pan gasket and found later leak was from kickdown cable and/or trans shifter shaft. After I replaced all those seals it was fixed. Good luck!
Well after finishing the Holiday stuff, I was able to get under it again. I thought that the leak (flood) was coming from the filter/gasket and fluid that I changed. I was sadly wrong, it is coming from behind (trans. side) the torque converter. I am not a transmission guy so, I am at a loss. Did I damage something while lifting the engine to do the rear main seal? I followed the CSM step by step. Any thoughts?
It appears to be coming from the passenger side of the converter. I used a engine hoist to lift the motor so, that is not it. The leak got significantly worse. Here is some history....I had it on ramps to work on the rear main and trans. pan/gasket. I finished and took it for a quick drive down the block and back. It was just a slow go down the street. I parked it in the driveway to clean up my garage, since the car has been in there for years. Noticed a small leak appeared to be coming from the pan. I pulled it back into the garage and started to work on the points and timing so, I got the car to temp and set the timing, idle, etc. I went to move the car a little forward and the trans. would not engage in any gear (D, R, 2, L). I shut it down and looked under and there is about 2 quarts on the ground and pouring out about as fast as if you were pouring out of a quart bottle. I know the dipstick was in because I checked it while it was idling to confirm fluid top off since, it was the first time on the ground.
If it leaks that much the leak is under pressure. Look at the two cooler lines first and then take the cover off of the converter, look up as high as you can with a flashlight between the converter and the transmission front pump for leakage.
My guess is the leak is the front pump seal which requires transmission removal. Hopefully I'm wrong and it's cooler lines.
I had my brother in-law over today and he has some background in transmissions (diesel mostly). Cooling lines are not leaking and it is for sure coming from inside the housing, under pressure. We started disconnecting everything to drop the trans. Which brings me to my question....how is the dipstick tube attached? CSM says there is a bolt but I don't see one and the vacuum modulator (I think) tube it welded to the fill tube.
The bolt is one of the six bell housing bolts. Follow the tube upward, you'll see an ear/tab bolted in place. Remove that bolt 9/16" hex head completely and then wiggle the tube out. Have a catch pan ready.
As always, thank you for the feedback...Bear, I should have looked a little closer. I stopped at that point (due to other frustrations) and didn't even see the bracket. What was strange is the vacuum actuator tube appeared to welded to the fill tube. It was just a metal clip holding them together. That had me baffled a little on how to wiggle it out while not damaging the vacuum tube.
Norm, the advice is always wanted (needed). The first thing my in-law and I did before starting the transmission removal was to check for any new advice. When I changed the filter and fluids, I added about 2-3 quarts per the instructions I was using so, I don't think it was overfilled but, you could be absolutely correct. After we reviewed the posts, we decided to proceed with the removal based on a couple issues...1 the trans. fluid looked more like motor oil then trans fluid and, there were heavy deposits (clay like) in the pan, and the 100k+ miles on it. I purchased the Ron Session book that has been referenced in several posts. It arrived yesterday so, I have not had a chance to review. From what I have read in the forums it should only run about $500 to have someone rebuild it. I don't plan on doing anything extra (shift kit, etc.) to it because I don't plan to add HP at this time and so the stock trans. should work for what I currently have planned.
I will post an update when we get the trans. dropped, should be this weekend.
I finished the trans. removal today, no major issues. I didn't have a helper today but, had a few minor issues. I stripped one of the trans. cross member bolts. I had to get the Dremel out and cut the bolt head off. I also snapped the head off of one of the trans. mount bolts. I will have to look to see were I can get replacements. I wasn't to worried about them as I planned on replacing them due to the severe rust. I did have to add some heat to the trans. pins in order to get it to separate from the engine but, that went very well. I haven't decided if I will do the rebuild or have a local shop do it. Any recommendations in the Metro Detroit area? Any items I should consider while the trans. is out?
I plan to start on the brakes next, I had a rear line burst some years ago and leaked on the muffler for a cool smoke show. That was the last straw and what got her put in the garage for some many years. I am planning replacing all of the lines, proportion valves, and the rear distribution block. The brake pads, rotors, drums, and hardware are in good shape. I replaced most of that prior to the line burst.
I also purchased the engine harness (M&H) because most of the wiring is brittle or burnt (starter wires). I figure I will have a good chance to work on the wiring when the booster and master cylinder is out of it.
Here are some pictures of the trans. and stuff. I really need to take more pictures during the operation but, hard to do with trans. fluid up to my elbows.
Seek the advice of forums members while the transmission is out about using a different stall speed torque converter to gain some performance. If the converter needs replacement, you might as well maximize the gains.
Start planning a method on how to flush the transmission lines and cooler to get any crud out before reinstalling.
Replace the rubber modulator hose connector, it looks cracked.
Clean and paint the tunnel area, crossmember and driveshaft while the transmission is out.
I really need to take more pictures during the operation but, hard to do with trans. fluid up to my elbows.
That made me remember after my first transmission rebuild I climbed into the shower and washed my hair with GoJo to get all the oil out. Man, that stuff removed all the oils and will leave you with mannequin hair.
Well I made it back after a 2 week work trip to Tennessee.
DG65, Thank you for that info I had no idea they made that. I ended up ordering Lubegard 19001 Kooler Kleen Transmission Cooler Flush High Pressure Formula, 18 oz. There was another option from Lubegard but, it was water based which didn't make sense. I don't know why anyone would want to add water to the trans lines but, I am sure there is a good reason for making it.
A lot still going on with the Cutlass, I removed the brake booster and MC over the weekend, as posted in many threads, it was a pain to remove. I luckily didn't have any of the rounded nuts or strip issues but, the maximum 1/8 inch turn with a box wrench made a 10 min. job about an hour. I am however having an issue determining the correct B/MC for my application. I have front disc and rear drum but, the listings only seem to call out disc or drum, not both. I read in a thread that the front disc have the larger front reservoir. None of these options appear to have the larger front well.
I was also able to replace the main engine harness this weekend. I purchased the M&H harness and matched it up and it had 1 extra connector. I believe that the extra connector is/was for vacuum tree that has been sealed on mine. The replacement was straight forward. I matched the new harness on top of the old while still attached, confirmed connectors, length, etc. The routing is different for the new harness which doesn't appear to an issue. M&H has changed the routing for the alternator, instead of a separate lead to alternator it feeds off the temp sensor lead.
Here is the "extra" connector. Anyone confirm the usage or lack of?
The item that it didn't like was how M&H attached a resistor or something with duct tape, seems like there is a better solution. It looks like a hack on a brand new hareness.
More to come....I still need to find a good trans shop in my area (Detroit) to do the rebuild and do some research on the torque converter.
I think the disc or drum refers to disc fr drum rr or drum fr drum rr. I dont think they spell out the disc fr drum rr asany car back then that had disc brakes only had them in the fr unlike today where 4 wheel disc is not uncommon.
The next question would be what is the difference between the Delco and the non-Delco version? The Delco version states "this brand-new brake booster is manufactured with the Delco Moraine (the original GM manufacturer and supplier) name stamped on the booster shell." It doesn't say "manufactured BY Delco" just "manufactured with the Delco Moraine (the original GM manufacturer and supplier) name stamped" So, am I paying +$60 for a stamp? My current does not have a stamp.
I was using OPGI for the MC and Booster set. I didn't look at O'reilly.but, that one shows a bore of .94 and I show that mine is a 1.125. It is better to buy the booster and MC separately?
My previous experiences have always yielded much better results when purchasing both the MC & Booster from the same manufacturer. You can certainly purchase them separately, but when it comes time to address the push-rod mating of the MC w/ the Booster, a manufacturer who sells both will generally provide a better fitment when it comes time to installing both together. Of course, some of this is dependent on user experience. Everyone's mileage will vary but that has been my previous experiences when replacing both.
I got my new booster and MC set today. Looks like a good match. I need track down my line leak and replace it. I should be able to put the brake system back together after that.
Looking good. If you clear coat those parts before you install them they will look good for years to come. You can just use rattle can clear, well worth the 5 or 6 bucks.
