1969w3155

That carb looks great!

jensenracing77

After I started cleaning them up I found that all of them are cracked. I have one more parts car to remove one from. I will see what condition it is in.

1970VistaCruiser

Aren't those Sparky carbs something else? Great work so far Eric, it's going to be a fabulous 442!!!!!

jstrits

I did mine grey. I see the reproduction shields are zinc. I've seen them both ways also. depending on useage of the car, I think zinc will be more maintenence. Keep In mind, I had sparky do just about every nut-bolt on my car and I wipe my fasteners down every few months with oil, or boeshield as they they can flash rust. i have a hoist so it makes the job quite a bit easier. But with midwest humidity fluctuations, they need care even if the car sits.

jstrits

I've always used etch primer on the bare metal before the blue. The factory just applied over bare so you should be ok. but I have seen paint come off valve covers with a blow gun. I also see guys using epoxy as a base like some choose to do body work (epoxy on bare metal then filler work on top). I've heard the "high heat" paints are a myth. I've painted motors with base-clear with the same burn off as engine paint. Most my motors now I shoot from the gun and clear them for the "look"

TK-65

My Sparky 4GC



DSC08116.jpg

jensenracing77

I like the grey better. I should have went that way. Is boeshield sticky or does is dry completely? I can't have sticky anything with where I live. That is another story... I don't know where i will keep this car after it is done. I bought our place with paved roads but the county is turning all our roads to rock. I would never have bought this place had i known this. Now I don't think i can sell the place because nobody else wants to live on rock roads.
Sorry for the rant...

jensenracing77

I have not been happy with how my drive shaft turned out with the bare steel paint. I found another drive shaft in my junk pile today and it has no pitting. It very well may be the original one to this car but i am not sure. I very lightly bead blasted it today and it looks like i will go this route. I think I am going to try to polish it as shiny as i can and clear it. Just not sure how to polish it? do i just sand it with fine sandpaper?

jensenracing77

I am much happier with this drive shaft than my other one. It cleaned up real good. I cleared it to keep it from rusting. It is not perfect but I am OK with it as is. I got a little silly with the welds. I brush painted them to look as if they were hot from the welding. Up close you can tell what i did but 3 foot away it looks OK. I painted the ends with cast iron color. I still need to paint the stripes. I think i am going to brush them on sloppy like they were.

jensenracing77

I had to get the chassis out of the garage to paint the engine. I still can't decide what i am doing with the crossmember. I could see no signs of it ever being painted. I know inline tube has them natural color on many of their cars but I am not sure if it is correct. I see them both painted and unpainted on the cars I strip but most of them are painted on at least the bottom side. I will make that decision a little later. If I had it to do over, I would have painted the rear end like level one restorations does. I like how the engine turned out. It looks a little brighter in the pictures than it is but still close.

1970VistaCruiser

Eric,

I had mine powder coated to look natural. I have seen them both ways as well. If I still lived in AZ I would have cleared it but since you and I live in this climate paint or powder coating is the best option.

Dave

cdrod

Eric:
I finally found those Freddy Fender 8-track tapes I mentioned a while back. Are you still interested? I found a box of 10, still in the plastic shrink wrap. I can't vouch for the condition after all these years, but I did remove the shrink wrap on one of them and the tape looks to be in good condition.
Rodney

jensenracing77

I'll send you a PM.

jensenracing77

I got my 8 track, Thanks Rodney

Not much work done, I have mostly been working on my other 442 getting it ready to sell. I did get the starter back and the intake manifold back.

I had the manifold from my red W-30 restored by Wilson manifold in Florida. I sent it so that if I did not like it I could just use the original one from my car. When I opened it the first thing I thought was that they painted it. I was not happy at first. I looked at it for 5 minutes till I finally decided to scratch the bottom side to see if it was paint or not. Turns out that it is not painted. The finish just turned out that good. I set it beside my original to my car for a comparison. The only thing I noticed is that what ever the media is that they use, it takes away just a little if the sharpness the the letters and numbers cast into it. You have to look at them side by side up close to even notice. I think the texture is just a little rougher than original but I am not sure. I know the texture is rougher than my original one but mine was bead blasted and may have taken some of it away. I am still not sure what one i will use. They were both made one day apart so either one would work date wise.

jensenracing77

The body is soda blasted. We found the typical surprises that are always part of a project like this. found filler in the driver side quarter and front fender. I knew the driver door had some and I replaced it with a mint replacement. Looks like it was in a fender bender from front to back on the driver side. The wife to the original owner said her husband liked to party so maybe he was drinking? My body man said he is going to remove the filler and should have no problem fixing them and not needing a quarter. He said it is not deep and will be able to get alot more of dent out. He said it will only require a very thin layer after it is done. He did recommend I get a passenger side quarter so he can cut the wheel lip off for patches. He said he can butt weld them in and hide the seam.

This car had the original paint under the repaint. They said there were no stripes of any kind under the repaint. This this reinforces what the wife to the original owner said and the pictures she give me. No question that this is a stripe delete car.

jensenracing77

More pictures. Also included a Chevelle he is finishing up. It was a full build with suspension upgrades and LS engine.

Greg Rogers

Nice job so far, Eric. I agree with your thoughts about keeping it right and as original as possible, especially since yours is a W30. I restored my 71 Cutlass 10 years ago and did a few things quickly and have since redone many of them. Now I also have a Vista that I try to do all the repairs etc as original. This car is only a beater now, but maybe someday I'll go thru it.

NDERISE

Eric i notice the wire mesh under the hood is removed how will it be reinstalled. Just curious because mine has come lose at a few of the pench welds.
Ray

jensenracing77

Mine had come loose also from 3 or 4 welds. He will just spot weld it back on like they were. He siad he should be able to sopt weld it in the same spots as the originals.

jensenracing77

The engine is almost ready for the dyno.

I mounted an A/C bracket on the back driver side and the front passenger side. I think I can hook the lifting chain to them easier without scratching the engine up.

jensenracing77

Headed to the dyno tomorrow! I have never done this or even seen one done so it will be a new experience for me. I had the alternator on it because i did not know how else to turn the water pump. When I ask him about it he just laughed and called me a rookie. He had me take it off and not install the thermostat.

There is a chance of rain tomorrow... I sure hope it don't.

jensenracing77

Just wanted to add the results to this thread. 510 torque and 427 HP with stock F heads and stock intake and exhaust manifolds.

RPM C TORQ C PWR BSFC C.F. Oil Pr WAT T Fuel P O2 Sen TIME
BAND Ft-Lbs CHP #/HrHP PSI Deg F PSI Ratio SEC

3392 509.8 329.3 0.565 1.1020 65.0 147.0 4.7 0.02 1.6
3500 509.9 339.8 0.559 1.1020 65.6 147.0 4.9 0.02 0.9
3600 506.0 346.8 0.593 1.1090 64.8 148.0 6.0 0.02 2.0
3700 510.9 359.9 0.586 1.1125 62.6 145.5 6.3 0.02 2.2
3800 504.7 365.1 0.562 1.1125 63.2 146.0 6.4 0.02 1.4
3900 493.6 366.5 0.541 1.1130 64.4 145.0 6.4 0.02 1.6

4000 486.5 370.6 0.518 1.1110 64.2 146.5 6.2 0.02 0.8
4100 487.8 380.8 0.505 1.1090 63.1 146.0 5.8 0.02 0.7
4200 484.2 387.2 0.555 1.1065 62.5 147.0 6.6 0.02 4.5
4300 473.5 387.7 0.541 1.1070 60.4 156.0 6.6 0.02 4.3
4400 468.1 392.2 0.545 1.1075 59.5 153.0 6.6 0.02 1.5
4500 464.5 397.9 0.545 1.1090 59.5 150.5 6.6 0.02 0.6
4600 458.3 401.4 0.549 1.1070 57.9 153.0 6.6 0.02 1.1
4700 453.3 405.6 0.538 1.1070 58.3 151.0 6.6 0.02 0.6
4800 448.2 409.6 0.541 1.1070 56.9 158.5 6.6 0.02 0.6
4900 444.1 414.3 0.544 1.1065 58.1 152.5 6.6 0.02 0.5

5000 438.8 417.7 0.534 1.1080 57.3 152.0 6.6 0.02 0.8
5100 432.9 420.3 0.548 1.1075 57.1 153.5 6.6 0.02 0.7
5200 426.1 421.9 0.551 1.1075 56.5 153.5 6.6 0.02 0.7
5300 420.2 424.0 0.557 1.1075 55.5 155.5 6.6 0.02 0.8
5400 415.2 426.9 0.567 1.1070 52.3 154.5 6.6 0.02 0.5
5500 408.0 427.2 0.581 1.1070 51.5 157.0 6.6 0.02 0.6
5600 399.4 425.9 0.591 1.1070 50.8 157.5 6.6 0.02 0.6
5700 389.4 422.6 0.58 1.1065 49.7 144.0 6.6 0.02 0.3
5784 382.4 421.1 0.59 1.1065 49.7 144.0 6.6 0.02 0.2

AVRG 441.1 408.1 0.551 1.1075 56.9 151.9 6.5 0.02 20.4

AVERAGE RESULTS From 4000 RPM to <5784> RPM DEPAC # 322

Boilerz25

Eric,

427HP is solid. I look forward to the finished product.

Sean

OLD SKL 69

427 hp and 510 ft lbs of torque? Very nice. Those poor belted tires! LOL.

jensenracing77

I had got an OW decal from Paul Sigmund. It is windowed to show your original stampings on the tag. I installed it just a little low but you can still see the stampings. He done a GREAT job with these decals! Looks MUCH better than a tag with all the paint gone.

jensenracing77

My wife took a couple pictures at a real bad time. I was ready to toss these $hit motor mounts in the trash. I got them from inline tube thinking MAYBE they will be differant than the parts store mounts, I was wrong! joesw-31 told me I would have trouble with them. I just had to try them since I had already got them. I have a set of NOS mounts but did not want to use them. Now I am thinking maybe I will. So tired of the $hit parts that we have to use now!

Rocketbrian

Very cool. Tranny looks amazing. Your right, the ID plate with the decal worn away or missing doesn't look great. Does he reproduce OD and OG decals? How do you get in touch with him?

jensenracing77

His user name is Harry_Olds here.

Hairy Olds

I have the OG but have never had a call for OD.
psigmund@wi.rr.com

Hairy Olds

Looks like the decal laid down nice. Were the instructions clear enough for you.

jensenracing77

Yes, Everything was great. Thanks,

jensenracing77

Long break from the car. Not touched it since the day my girl broke her arm in late May. I was going to install the U joints today and put the driveshaft in but i can not find my yoke. When the basement flooded i moved it and never seen it since.

On another note, my body man has alot done but still a long way to go. He has taken on a couple other construction jobs that will slow him down a little. Works out good because after my delays I am not ready for it. He originaly said late September but it may be November now. We have decided to change the driver side quarter panel. He could make it look as good as new but it just isn't going to be right. With the little rust on the lip and the former dent repair, it will be the same money just to change it out. I am lucky because the driver side NOS quarter is MUCH easier to find. I located one and will be picking it up after the nationals. Sad thing is, I just sold one last year not thinking I was going to need it. I got a repop passenger quarter to cut a 12 inch piece of the wheel lip out of for a patch. My body work price is going up

jensenracing77

GREAT NEWS!!!!

I do not have the new driver side NOS quarter yet so I called the body guy to see how soon I needed to get it to him. He said he needed it last week but with not having it he decided to take a closer look at the former damage to the original quarter. He said he has a little time in it but worked almost the entire dent out of it without filler. He said it will still require some filler to fix the small imperfections but he would have done that even without prior damage. He said he has more time in it than changing the quarter but at least it is the original and I don't have to spend a pile of cash on an NOS one. I hope to get some pictures tonight. I have to take him the repop quarter so he can cut about 12 inches of wheel lip out of it.

jensenracing77

before and after of the passenger side. From the trunk side it is hard to tell where it was welded. He said by the time he is done with the inside you will not be able to find the but weld at all.

I must have been to excited when I talked to him. He was telling me what he will do and not what he did do. He said the filler that is in it is not near as bad as it looks. He said he can get almost all the bad areas fixed and only use minimal filler. I am very happy to keep the original quarter on the car. I was going to use NOS but the original is better to me.

jensenracing77

My body guy said that the previous body guy that worked on the driver quarter was classic 70 body work. He said the filler was almost 1/4 thick in places. He ground out all the old filler and said he knocked out almost all of the old dent. He said most any body man could have knocked it out better than what was done. Now he said the worst filer may be 1/16 thick at very most. Just glad that I have the factory quarters (well with lower lip patches).

Troys Toy 70

Eric,

Did you buy the lower lip patches somewhere, or did your body man make them?

Looking good!

Troy

Jetstarjim

Looks great! A really nice job on the quarters. Finally, someone has used a patch panel with it's intended purpose. To use absolutely as little as possible of it! I don't know how many I have seen where they just zip down the side and overlap the whole top, from the front to the back. That's going to be a fantastic car.


The story with it, is great too. It's one of the things I enjoy with the business. Long after I'm gone, something I've done could be someone else's first car, or be another father/son project, and so on. Many of my great memories of the past revolve around a particular car, and a particular time. I just wonder if future generations will be restoring I-phones, as they recall memories of youth, lol!

costpenn

I know what you mean - I bought new quarter skins for mine, and see how little was actually used - but it is the best "wasted" money on my body work yet!

jensenracing77

That is exactly how much my body guy used. He was going to only piece in about 12 inches on the driver side but said the factory sealer between the two panels really needed to come out. That stuff the factory used absorbs water real bad and he wanted it all out.

jensenracing77

I had to buy the skins and cut what we needed. The skins also have a real wide lip and he cut them to match the factory size.